Kennycab

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About Kennycab

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  • First Name
    Kenny
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 2.0 D4D TR Hatchback
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Cheshire

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  1. Found this thread, seems to cover the problems mine is having.
  2. Hi John 2006 is around the time the Avensis was facelifted, some have the same headlights as your 2007, others have the earlier type. I would expect the parts to be interchangeable if both cars have the same headlights, not sure if the older type would transfer easily to the 2007 car. The earlier type also have indicators in the wings, yours should have them on the door mirrors instead. There may be some other bits to swap over such as the door cards from doors or maybe wiring, door locks etc. Other differences could be stuff like does each front bumper have foglights and are they the same style. Ideally having the 2007 car and 2006 parts next to each other would allow you to compare and see if they are like for like. Good luck. Kenny
  3. Hi David, If the oil level is full and the oil light came on then perhaps it is just a faulty oil pressure switch ? How many miles has it done ? When was the engine oil last changed ? Do you know what oil it has in it ? Is it the correct grade ? Please post and let us know what your mechanic says. Kenny
  4. Here are some photos from the engine in my car from the head gasket job. You can see the carbon build up on the pistons and the gasket notches on the right hand side. Then with everything cleaned up with new gasket, and the head itself after skimming. You can see the pistons are machined in places to allow clearance with the valves, and the head surface is completely flat so each time you skim a little off the head the valves will be effectively lower, closer to the pistons, hence the need to make up the difference with a thicker gasket. It would also be worth getting the compression figures off the mechanic and comparing them to spec. Standard is 362 psi, minimum is 320 psi and there should be no more than 71psi difference between each cylinder.
  5. When I bought the new head gasket from Toyota the guy told me that if they were doing a head gasket then they would always fit the thickest gasket. If it lowered the compression slightly then it would be hardly noticeable and would give a little more margin for it being raised by carbon deposits in future.
  6. I changed mine recently, can't remember fully but think I finished it off from underneath, perhaps with socket and extension for bottom bolt. I think some bits have to be removed, and wiring may be easier to undo once motor is unbolted and moved a bit. Perhaps remove plastic intake pipe from between throttle body and rubber boost pipe to give more room. It wasn't too difficult to do overall. Sorry if this is a bit vague.
  7. I had a look at the failed turbo last night and found the lever that operates the control ring and vanes hardly moves so would suspect that has caused it to fail over a period of time. The car used to suffer from hesitation above 3000rpm but this has gone since fitting the replacement turbo. I checked the movement of the lever on the replacement and it seemed ok before fitting it. Is there a spec that defines how far this should move and how to set the adjusting screw ? Would be interesting to check the replacement against a spec. I will disassemble the old one some time this week and post pics etc. Car was hardly ever run on supermarket fuel, mostly Esso regular or BP / Texaco with occasional Costco premium or V Power / Ultimate
  8. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-Boot-liner-car-mat-Heavy-Duty-TOYOTA-AVENSIS-mk3-Estate-2009-onwards/302957740675?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota|Model%3AAvensis&epid=2020180622&hash=item4689b04283:g:fzkAAOSwzgtb6-Kh
  9. Did you get this sorted out ? My car 2007 D4D behaving similar, uneven idle and cutting out at lights sometimes. Restarts fine, starts fine in the morning. New fuel filter fitted made no difference. Ran 2 tankfuls of super diesel with a bottle of redex in each time and it seemed to settle down but now it's back on regular diesel it started happening again.
  10. I didn't think 2011 cars suffered from head gasket problems, they were all sorted a couple of years earlier. I have had the problem on my 2007 2.0 d4d at 114 k, it will last a while but get worse with time and use if you keep it topped up, I used a longer pipe on the overflow that went into a 1 litre bottle for a while, that caught the expelled coolant which I then poured back in once it cooled down. My car is now on 203k and been ok since fixing it but if it ever goes again then I will be trying Steel Seal in it, the value of the car is so low now that it would probably not be cost effective to repair again properly and I know the head won't take another skim, but 2011 car may be worth doing properly again.
  11. In the user manual for my 2007 D4D 2.0 it says that B1 is the spec for Non-DPF models such as mine, the link for the Ford oil says it is B1 so that should be OK for non-DPF. The manual goes on to say that for DPF models it should be C2, but B1 can be used at a push (or words to that effect). Question I have is would there be any problem running the non-DPF car on C2 ? Also, can C1 or C3 be used in place of C2 as these are also low(or lower) SAPS oils ? Thanks
  12. Valve clearances are taken care of by hydraulic adjusters but if the rocker cover is removed and the engine turned you should be able to see if the valves are opening and closing ok, if compression is ok then they are probably sealing ok.
  13. I would say you need to find out which head gasket was originally fitted to the car. Can you get the old gasket from the mechanic ? There are a number of notches on the gasket denoting it's thickness, which will have been selected when the engine was built based on how far the pistons protrude from the head when at TDC. My car originally had 3 notches on. Then you need to find out from the engineers or the mechanic exactly how much was removed from the head, and how many notches are on the new gasket. The new gasket needs to be thicker than the old by at least the same amount as was skimmed off the head to avoid problems. For example, the head off my car had 0.1mm or 4 thousandths of an inch skimmed off. The old gasket had 3 notches, the new gasket was the thickest one that had 5 notches and is 0.1mm thicker than the original so I was lucky, it just worked out perfectly. However, if the gasket were to go again and the head was in need of skimming again then this would not be possible, I would have to find another head. If the engine has been reassembled with less clearance between pistons and head than before it could be that the engine started up ok but as it warmed up and everything expanded then there might have been some interference between pistons and valves causing your problem. However, something like this would normally show as low compression on one or more cylinders and you say that compression test was ok. A silly question but does the car have enough diesel in it and is the fuel filter ok and all pipework correctly connected in the correct way ? Perhaps one of the pipes is reversed and it's not getting enough fuel ? I assume the filter can be primed ok ?
  14. A tip to help read the dipstick is to use a piece of tissue or kitchen roll. Remove dipstick and press the bottom end from tip to upper mark against the tissue then look at the staining left behind, compare against the upper and lower marks on the dipstick.