gordypix

Fear not dear people, the "sealed bids" was tongue in cheek. As you would all be aware, Toyota are EXPENSIVE when it comes to spare and repairs. The exhaust is the most pressing matter, the rest are amber advisories and as always second opinions will be sought.

G'day all. Todays service report recommendations from the Visual Safety Check and the dealers costs if I choose to have them done: RAV 4, 2005 Exhaust Blow on Union between Mid & Rear, Recommend replace due to heavy corrosion - £1791 Rear Bump stoppers Heavy perished/damaged - £242 Front shock Gaiters split - £197 Both Rear Brake Pipes corroded before Flexihose - £360 Rear Brake Backing Plates corroded - £1497 Does all this make sense to you other RAVites - Seem heavily priced to me - especially the backing plates. Any other dealers etc feel like submitting a sealed bid for consideration...? Gordy.

Well it was not that... The problem was indeed..... A loose wire on the Number 1 Coil Pack. Took a minute to fix in the end...!

Hey Y'all Looking at buying a RAV4 soonish. Thinking of a 2.0VVT-i XTR 5Door on an 05 Plate from a Toyota Main Dealer. Can anyone give me some unbiased info on this model and anything I should be looking out for. cheers, Gordy.

When you open the doors, check the metal door catch on the body that the door clicks onto when it shuts. It can work loose with all the opening and shutting of the heavy doors. If it is loose the door wont close completely but you may not notice thus setting the alarm off. All it needs then is tightening of the STAR shaped screws.

Hmm, sounds feasible. I will relay the info to the mechanic at the garage and see if he can take a closer look. Thanks for the input, lets hope it is indeed as simple as this. I'll post the findings... Regards, Gordy.

Driving the Celica along the other day, it stalled as I was turning onto a dual carridgeway. Managed to pull over safely and attempt a re-start. No luck, it fired up then cut out again, and again and again... Took it to the garage (not Toyota Dealer) and they cannot see anything obvious without taking wild guesses and charging me lots of cash. So far they havent charged me anything to look it over but it is still only starting and then cutting out within a minute. Seems if you leave it a while it starts but then cuts but attempting to restart staright after a stall it won't fire up at all. Any ideas anyoneeeeeeeeeeeeeee?

I'LL LET Y'ALL KNOW THE RESULT....

So do you think T-Cut would work sufficiently? I Never fully trust that stuff especially on plastic.

Thanks Y'all... New Headlights... for a Celica. You have gotta be kidding. Do you know the cost of them? Certainly not Credit Card friendly. Have tried a cleaning solution already with not much luck so lets hope a bit more elbow grease works.

The headlights of my 2001 Gen7 Celica are very fogged up with grime and or dirt. The sort of stuff that does not wash off as normal. As such it risks an MOT failure because the headlights do not shine the required safe pattern, instead emitting a "BLOB" of light. Does anyone have any ideas how to clean the headlights lens? Cheers, Gordy.

Oh well, the original Rad lasted 10 years in the car so can't complain I suppose. At least I shall have warmth for the Winter.

OK, so the diagnosis from the garage today was..... Radiator gone in the bottom corner. You were right my friend. Cheers for the heads-up! Now comes the bill... lol

The Oil cap seems fine. I have seen no evidence of any leaks - I have considered it but the engine is so enclosed it it so hard to see anything. And there are no leaks beneath the car when parked.

It hasn't had any work done but yes it seems to be requiring top ups every month or so - maybe a litre of more each time.