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gordypix

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Posts posted by gordypix

  1. G’day all…

    I'm in need of a set of Steering Rack Mounting Bushes for my ol’ 2005 Rav4 Petrol 2.0 AWD.

    My local Toyota main dealer are not up for supplying them as parts but will happily sell me a new complete steering rack for a little under £2,000…. Yeah, ok then…!

    See pic below for the lil’ things I require.

    I have only found them so far for a 2003 model RAV and they definitely do not fit my model.

    Would anyone know where to source them or even have some available maybe?

    3482C8F9-B222-44D8-AE52-C55A081F3094.thumb.jpeg.92d43e746d7a459018946e4c82eaec93.jpeg

    Cheers,

    Gordy.

  2. Fear not dear people, the "sealed bids" was tongue in cheek.:laugh:

    As you would all be aware, Toyota are EXPENSIVE when it comes to spare and repairs.

    The exhaust is the most pressing matter, the rest are amber advisories and as always second opinions will be sought.

  3. G'day all.

     

    Todays service report recommendations from the Visual Safety Check and the dealers costs if I choose to have them done:

    RAV 4, 2005

    Exhaust Blow on Union between Mid & Rear, Recommend replace due to heavy corrosion - £1791

    Rear Bump stoppers Heavy perished/damaged - £242

    Front shock Gaiters split - £197

    Both Rear Brake Pipes corroded before Flexihose - £360

    Rear Brake Backing Plates corroded - £1497

     

    Does all this make sense to you other RAVites - Seem heavily priced to me - especially the backing plates.

    Any other dealers etc feel like submitting a sealed bid for consideration...?

     

    Gordy.

  4. Hey Y'all

    Looking at buying a Rav4 soonish.

    Thinking of a 2.0VVT-i XTR 5Door on an 05 Plate from a Toyota Main Dealer.

    Can anyone give me some unbiased info on this model and anything I should be looking out for.

    cheers,

    Gordy.

  5. When you open the doors, check the metal door catch on the body that the door clicks onto when it shuts. It can work loose with all the opening and shutting of the heavy doors. If it is loose the door wont close completely but you may not notice thus setting the alarm off. All it needs then is tightening of the STAR shaped screws.

  6. Driving the Celica along the other day, it stalled as I was turning onto a dual carridgeway.

    Managed to pull over safely and attempt a re-start.

    No luck, it fired up then cut out again, and again and again...

    Took it to the garage (not Toyota Dealer) and they cannot see anything obvious without taking wild guesses and charging me lots of cash.

    So far they havent charged me anything to look it over but it is still only starting and then cutting out within a minute.

    Seems if you leave it a while it starts but then cuts but attempting to restart staright after a stall it won't fire up at all.

    Any ideas anyoneeeeeeeeeeeeeee?

  7. Yep, buff them up with a compound. There are special compiunds jsut for this job OR buy new headlights.

    Thanks Y'all...

    New Headlights... for a Celica. You have gotta be kidding. Do you know the cost of them? Certainly not Credit Card friendly.

    Have tried a cleaning solution already with not much luck so lets hope a bit more elbow grease works.

  8. The headlights of my 2001 Gen7 Celica are very fogged up with grime and or dirt. The sort of stuff that does not wash off as normal. As such it risks an MOT failure because the headlights do not shine the required safe pattern, instead emitting a "BLOB" of light.

    Does anyone have any ideas how to clean the headlights lens?

    Cheers,

    Gordy.

  9. You have a leak then. Check the bottom of the radiator, as that is where they are prone to fail. It's not as easy as it may sound as things are in the way.

    If the rad is fine (though I'd put money on it being the issue), then check buy the water pump.

    Have to check the oil cap for any gunge? The head gaskets are very unlikely to fail on these, but worth a check.

    OK, so the diagnosis from the garage today was.....

    Radiator gone in the bottom corner.

    You were right my friend. Cheers for the heads-up!

    Now comes the bill... lol

  10. You have a leak then. Check the bottom of the radiator, as that is where they are prone to fail. It's not as easy as it may sound as things are in the way.

    If the rad is fine (though I'd put money on it being the issue), then check buy the water pump.

    Have to check the oil cap for any gunge? The head gaskets are very unlikely to fail on these, but worth a check.

    The Oil cap seems fine.

    I have seen no evidence of any leaks - I have considered it but the engine is so enclosed it it so hard to see anything. And there are no leaks beneath the car when parked.

  11. Well, it could be that the Celica is getting on a bit but it shouldnt matter all that much...

    The Interior Heat controls are not doing their job at the moment.

    Where once the car heated up nicely in a few minutes inside, it is now taking 15-20 mins before the heat decides to work.

    The Temperature gauge is also acting up... Where it normally sits happily halfway after the engine has warmed, it now pops up one notch above that as if it is indicating an overheat then drops back down again to normal.

    Anyone experienced these issues and can offer a solution pleae enlighten me forthwith,

    Regards,

    Gordy.

  12. Right the alarm going off could be due to a door not shut/not detected as shut, or its normally due to metal items being left in the cup holders.

    Make sure your boot is shut properly also.

    As for the whining noise that may probably be the power steering. when was the fluid last changed?

    Its nothing with the cup holder, of that I'm sure. Must be something preventing the door being detected as shut.

    Not sure when the fluid was last changed. Will have a look, cheers.

  13. I would say the first 3 are linked , the car thinks there is a door open hence the alarm hence the light coming on and hence the dash light.

    if you look on the pillar when you open each door there is a microswitch held on with a 10mm bolt, try replacing 1 or both of these.

    you might be able to eliminate them by pressing them in with your finger to see if the light goes off.

    Yeah, I figured the three would be connected but had no idea why lol.

    Cheers - I will check the switch out.

  14. Wondering if anyone has experienced any of the following or can shed some light on solutions please:

    Celica' "Door Open" light on dashboard flashing ON & OFF repeatedly whilst driving.

    Interior light coming ON & OFF when it shouldn't be.

    Car Alarm goes off when it feels like it (when parked).

    Is this a FUSE thing or something more sinister?

    AND ALSO

    When turning the steering wheel to the right there is a whining noise but NOT when turning to the left?

    Any ideas here?

    Cheers Y'all,

    Gordy.

  15. Some new Weirdness happening within my Celica 190...

    The Interior Light has stopped working as has the Boot light and the dashboard Clock has dimmed considerably.

    Toyota say there is NO Power getting to them and that the Fuses and bulbs are fine.

    Any ideas on how to fix it other than paying Toyota oundles of $$$ to do it?

    Gordy.

  16. 2001 Celica GT manual 165km (overhauled engine) for $6700

    Here is what I was told:

    1) The engine consumed oil but no blue smoke came out of the exhaust and there was no performance problem.

    2) Toyota checked it out and finally concluded the pistons were oval

    3) Toyota did the work under warranty

    4) They redid the block, replaced the piston rings, deglazed the engine, something about the shaft drive, and a bit more (I couldnt write fast enough)

    5) He has all the paperwork as proof

    Currently has 165 000km but overhauled the engine at 90 000km.

    Ok, so with all these details.. should I buy or wait and buy a celica without an 'overhauled' engine?

    Forget it - Sounds too much with High Mileage for its age let alone with a re-con engine.

    Find one with a good history that you can afford.

  17. I'm on Toyo Proxes T1-R's and find them good.

    Not sure if i'll replace them with the same tho, as I'm contemplating the Falken FK452's. They are about £10 a tyre cheaper than T1-Rs on Camskill.

    For those who have these Falkens, how do you find them, particularly with regards to wear?

    On my toyo's i've done about 11,000 miles, and have about 3mm left on fronts, 6mm on backs

    Falkens are great - Toyota fit and recommend them for Celicas and many garages recommend them too - Just got 4 new ones on my new wheels.

    Wear wise - it's down to how you drive and what you drive on really - my local roads are bumpy and country type roads so maybe will not get as many miles from a set as I would zooming up and down a motorway all week.

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