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KayG

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Everything posted by KayG

  1. 'Check pre crash safety' - Only a guess but could be something as simple as a dirty radar sensor/laser/camera ?
  2. I've only ever had two headlight bulbs blow (the original ones) since getting the car (7 years). Each bulb I replaced I thoroughly cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and then only handled them with clean kitchen roll - still going strong 5+ years later ! I've done very little maintenance in that 7 years/140,000 miles - just disks/pads and a couple of sets of wipers - apart from tyres and dealer servicing everything is as it left the factory, not even so much as an advisory at any MOT. I bet no other car maker can boast such build quality !
  3. Good photos. My first thought was counterfeit bulbs, but if you got them from Halfords that shouldn't be the case. The first photo looks like thermal shock - a hot bulb thats come into contact with liquid or possibly had condensation on it when switched on. The second is a hotspot caused by surface contamination. Next time you change bulbs give them a good clean of grease and oil, and don't handle with bare hands. Either way the problem is heat related, which really could only be caused by overvoltage - which would blow the filament before causing glass to shatter or melt - strange ! All I can suggest is make sure you're using the correct genuine bulbs and that they are completely clean, if there's still a problem check the voltage at the holder with a multimeter.
  4. The 12v battery price NOW (just checked website) is £120. When I went in with the problems I'm sure I'd seen it as a fixed price of around £90, when I told them about the fixed price they said that was the minimum and doesn't apply to all vehicles.
  5. Gerg. No prior warnings engine water pump was failing. First I knew was during the very hot weather last year (could have been on its way out for a while). After about ten minutes driving from cold the check engine warning light would come on, then a few minutes later the car would shut down completely - quite scary as the engine would be off, no hybrid electric motor power and worst of all no power steering ! After a 30 second wait the car could be powered on and driven but only for a minute or so before shutting down again. Unfortunately this coincided with a failing 12v battery (again no warning it was failing) so after a few restarts it needed a jump to get going. During this time there were 3 failed attempts in a row to go into ready mode and so the car shut down completely and could only be restarted after towing to Toyota for a reset. Before going to Toyota I bought an OBD scanner and it showed a water pump fault, however Toyota said it was a false reading due to the bad 12v battery - they changed the battery, cleared the codes and said the car was running fine. Dissapointingly they didn't go for a long enough test drive to get the car up to temperature - just went round the car park ! So after I collected the car I got no more than a mile from the garage before the same issues happened again. Fuming I went straight back to the garage to be informed they hadn't checked the pump despite there being an error code because they presumed the battery change had fixed it ! Total cost if not under warranty would have been about £700, £600 for the pump (EXACT same part was £350 from the eurocarparts store next door!), £100 labour to fit and about £20 for coolant. BTW it's an electric water pump not mechanical. Oh, and the battery cost me £120 despite me qouting Toyotas fixed price, because apparantly it doesn't apply to hybrids !!! There were no warning lights or messages on the dash about engine temperature or overheating, I thought there was a 'check coolant' or 'temperature' warning ? The only light that came on was the engine maintainance one. After it cut out there was a check hybrid system message displayed - very helpful and informative !!
  6. Only had a problem with the inside pads, the outside ones slipped in no problem - Pagid pads as well, but the OEM were just as tight ! Looking back (and if I have to do them again) I think I will sand the edges down if they are a tight fit. The good news is a week after fitting them I had to have the councils taxi test (like an mot) and everything was ok, no brake problems. And earlier this month I've had to have a 'proper' mot as it's no longer a taxi, a few days before I changed the front discs and pads. again no problems with brakes or anything else. So after 4 years and 120,000 miles I've not had to do any work on the car at all except for wear and tear items and things like bulbs, wipers, tyres etc. Water pump went at 90k but was fixed under warranty, and the glovebox soft opener went within a few weeks of new, again fixed under warranty and only lasted another couple of months so just left it as not too bothered. Previous vehicles (mostly mondeos) would have needed numerous ball joints, suspension drop links, cambelts, and two or three clutches/ flywheels over the same period. Plus probably a battery and starter motor.
  7. You do all know to remove the windscreen washer filler spout in order to get better access to the drivers (RHD) side bulbs ? Quick and easy - it's in the manual !
  8. Yes those are the connectors, I think the yellow one is the seatbelt (dont quote me on that!). Just to edit my original reply - the other connector might be the pre-tensioner not the airbag. If the seatbelt is not worn the airbags might still deploy.
  9. Two connectors under the seats, different colours. Ones the seatbelt the other the airbags. Disconnect the seatbelt one. Sorry cant remember which colour it is. The airbags won't deploy if the belts not being worn, however if you unplug the connector the car thinks you have the belt on and will deploy the airbags, this can cause serious injury as your heads in the wrong place (too far forward) due to not being restrained in an accident.
  10. You've pressed the button above the window switches that disables them ! Press it again, 'out' activated 'in' disabled - but the drivers still operates.
  11. Plenty of garages round here that will let you turn up with the parts and just charge the labour cost for fitting. Obviously how much depends on what work you have done, they wont change a clutch for £20 ! With all the correct tools and a ramp to change brake pads on both sides should take less than half an hour, it's a nice simple job and a quick £20 for them. Even the likes of kwikfit and ats have done an oil and filter change for a tenner using my parts on other cars I've owned. My local toyota dealer only charges an extra £20 on top of the price of the pads for fitting, but your paying a premium for the pads in the first place ! Or rather if you get toyota to replace the pads its £90.
  12. Thought I'd share my experience of changing the rear brake pads. Mileage 102000, pads down to about 2mm about the thickness of a 50p piece. Original pads. Should be an easy job ? Wrong. Dismantling is easy enough, the outside pads come out and slot back in no problem. However the inside pads are a different story, the original pads would not come out without the use of some sort of lever (I used the flat end of the wheel brace), and then the new pads would not go in. Tried putting the original pads I'd just taken out back in and they wouldnt go in either ! In the end had to hammer the new pads in. Went for a test drive and everything seemed fine but on checking the disc noticed it was hotter than it should be, as if the pads were rubbing/binding. So I stripped everything down again but this time took off the caliper part that the pads sit in so I could make sure the pads were in place properly. Here's the issue, the inside pads are a VERY tight fit, they will not slide in without hitting with a hammer or similar. Again compared to the original part that was being replaced and these were the same. My advice if diy is to remove the pad holder and fit the inside pad off the car, that way you know it is fitted correctly, trying to do it on the car you cant see if its lined up properly unless you have a ramp. Overall I'd say buy the parts and get a local garage to fit them for just the labour cost which shouldnt be more than around £20. Let someone else have the grief !! It's as if the pads ( new and old) are just slightly too long, 0.5mm less and they'd slide in no problem. Thye do go in but it takes some force, you can't do it by hand. If you do want to try it yourself you'll need; 13mm socket for the caliper 14mm socket for the pad holder Brake piston rewind tool, clockwise for drivers side(RHD), anticlockwise passenger side. You can 'push and turn' without the tool but it's very stiff and needs a lot of push pressure. Wire brush for cleaning Lever and hammer to remove/replace inboard pad. New pads, £70 Toyota dealer, £35 eurocarparts.
  13. To be honest I thought there'd be more replies to this thread. Speaking to other taxi drivers they all have issues with plate bulbs, surely it can't be a problem isolated to just my area ! So I guess no-one else has problems with their number plate bulbs and they're all working fine !!!
  14. Anyone else having problems with their number plate bulbs not staying lit ? Every day at least one of the bulbs is not illuminated, a gentle tap on the tailgate and it will come back on - then stay lit for the rest of the night, then it will be fine for maybe anything from 1 day to a week ! This happens to both bulbs, and has occured since the car was new. Suspecting corrosion on the contacts I used a thin piece of sandpaper in the bulb holder and afterwards a quick squirt of wd40. This seemed to work fine...for about a week then the problem came back. It's not the bulbs, like I say a gentle tap brings them back on(although it does seem to blow plate bulbs more than on other cars I've owned). No matter how much cleaning of the contacts or reseating the bulbs the issue always returns within a few days. And it's not just my car, speaking to other Auris taxi drivers they ALL have the same problem, and often when I'm following other Auris TS I'll notice they have one or both number plate lights out. Applies to Auris hybrid TS but I suspect other Toyotas use the same number plate bulb holders, is it a known issue, is there a solution? Will mention it to my dealer next time I'm in and see if they've had similar reports.
  15. KayG

    Disc sizes?

    It is confusing is'nt it ! I think I've found the size I need, easier once you know the variant code (ZWE186 - its on the registration document, doh.) checking different sites shows 277mm diameter for the discs. Now just to figure out the best place to get them from, reliable sites aren't cheap and the cheap sites (based in germany but with .co.uk addresses) are either scams or lots of 'avoid this site' warnings. Hopefully parts king can do a decent price.
  16. KayG

    Disc sizes?

    I would, but without taking a disc off completely it's awkward. Doing it with the disc on car wont work as the difference in sizes is only a few mm, easy to get it wrong.
  17. KayG

    Disc sizes?

    Thats the problem. I enter reg no. and every site comes back with at least two different size discs, even selecting car make,model,year etc still gives more than one result. I guess they go off engine codes, where would I find mine ?
  18. KayG

    Disc sizes?

    Getting close to a front disc and pad change but struggling to find what size I need. Some websites show three different sizes! What size (diameter) front discs do I need? If it's any help replacement pads I got a while back are 134.2 mm width. For future reference the size of the rear pads and discs would be helpful as well.
  19. I'm less than 2 miles from them ! (Near the end of the m55). Greenpeace have joined in now.
  20. There are two different EV states, the first where the EV button is pressed will force the vehicle to run on battery power but only for speeds up to about 20 mph, the second where the button is not pressed will allow speeds up to about 42 mph on battery. In both situations if the accelerator is depressed beyond a certain point it will cause the engine to start (roughly where the 'C' in eco on the power guage is). Whenever you take your foot off the accelerator fuel to the engine is shut off completely, as is common on most cars nowadays anyway, above 42 mph the EV light won't come on as the vehicle isn't running on battery power. You will find that as you get used to the car your MPG will improve as you adapt your driving style to get the most out of the hybrid system, try to stay out of the power band and once you reach your desired speed keep the needle in the middle of the eco-range where possible staying on battery power. Mpg will vary from person to person depending on many factors, driving style being just one. Distance driven, speed, number of stop starts and whether the terrain is hilly or flat all have an impact which seems to be greater on a hybrid than a normal car. I average about 60 mpg but that's on mainly flat roads at less than 40 mph with a fully warm engine and after 80 miles driving, the first 20 or so miles only give me 45-50mpg. Don't worry about the different driving modes, they only change the throttle response and have no effect on the economy of the engine.
  21. KayG

    Strange unlocking

    **FIXED** After having a look at some service diagrams and deciding there wasn't much that could go wrong, and noticing one of the rear speakers wasn't working I decided to take off the door cards and have a quick look inside. When I went to remove the multi-plug that connects to the locking mechanism I noticed it came away very easily, when I put it back in there was a definite click, after doing that the locks work normally so it looks like the repairers hadn't pushed the connector all the way home! Even worse the connector for the rear speaker hadn't even been reconnected!! So a nice easy fix for both problems but I'm really annoyed that the repairers couldn't do something as simple as pushing a multi plug back together.
  22. I'm still within the warranty period at the moment so it's a Toyota main dealer for me. Once the warranty runs out I'm not so sure, looking at the list of items on the service £200ish just for an oil change and a whole heap of check bulbs, top up coolant, check brake fluid level etc seems a lot of money for stuff I can check myself. Everything on the service list I can do easily myself, and things like the changing of brake fluid and coolant I'm not sure are necessary, on all the other cars I've owned the coolant and brake fluid never got changed throughout the life of the vehicle some which were 10 years and 400,000 miles old and I never had a problem.
  23. One of the main taxi suppliers was doing a good deal on the TS hybrid (Starting at £80 p/w x 5 years with £1k deposit) which I think kickstarted the hybrid popularity. They really come into their own as a taxi as the fuel saving is huge, I reckon if I do 200,000 miles I will save £12,000 just on the fuel compared to having a normal car. Then there is hopefully a further saving due to the lack of mechanical components that can fail, on top of Toyota reliability.
  24. I have been running a hybrid tourer from new as a taxi for the last two years, covering about 30,000 miles a year. Other than the costs of main dealer servicing the only other expense has been tyres,one front set of brake pads,wiper blades and the odd bulb here and there. I expect to keep the car for at least 10 years and 300k+. Most of my driving is stop start on level roads at less than 30 mph with the occasional long motorway run, which returns an average of 59 mpg (between 56-62mpg according to the trip computer which I find fairly accurate). Should I venture onto the motorway this drops to about 55 mpg at a steady 70 mph. What I found kills the mpg other than the motorway driving is going up a long hill ( particularly if you have to do a hill start with four passengers on board) or accelerating away from traffic lights, so if you live in a hilly area the MPG won't be as good. Where I really make up the mpg is on a long straight road at 40 mph with no stops where I can cover about 3/4 of a mile on battery alone if it's fully charged. Short runs on a cold engine also aren't good for MPG as the engine will run constantly until it reaches operating temperature, not a problem for me as once the car is started it remains switched on for the whole of my shift, even if I'm sat at the side of the road waiting for my next job which may be five minutes or it could be 45 minutes. As long as there's enough charge in the battery and I stick it in EV mode the engine won't start during this time, really good in winter when the non hybrid drivers turn their engines off between jobs and I can sit there not using any fuel but still get the benefit of heat from the ventilation system ! To give a rough comparison my previous car was a Ford Mondeo TDCI which returned 39 mpg on a like-for-like basis, but being a taxi a lot of time is spent sat outside houses waiting for passengers with the engine idling, a big saving for me is not burning fuel with the engine idling outside houses or at traffic lights. The only niggle I have with the car is the rearview mirror makes cars behind appear a lot closer than they really are, for the first few weeks I thought everyone was tailgating me ! I absolutely love the car, customers love the car and all the other taxi drivers that have bought one (they're becoming very popular round here as taxis) love them and I'm happy to report that none of them have had any problems with the vehicles, not even minor ones.
  25. The reverse beep cannot be turned off completely but can be set to beep once by a dealer. There was a bug in the techstream software that hid this option on the facelifted models, if this has not been fixed there is a workaround that involves connecting to a pre-facelift model first and after selecting the beep option then connecting to the facelifted model (as mentioned in a post above).
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