KennyKen1988

I think for me it's down to the fact my replacement setup is so lightweight. The original Toyota unit is really heavy in comparison like a brick, my mechless Kenwood in the single din is probably an eighth of the weight! It has been a lot better recently so I'm wondering if it's the heat on the dashboard causing movement. Hmm these funny rattles that come and go....

Taking it it right up to the limit and getting a good quick change to second will keep it in the lift band. Being in lift all the time realistically is only possible on a racing circuit of sorts. Having traction control off helps providing the grip is there on the road, you don't want that stepping in when you want the power kept up.

Excllent and let us know of the results, I need to improve the handling of my Corolla.

I was really debating on snipping the connections and rewiring but I was unsure if it would work at all. I decided not too since I wouldn't be able to send the product back for a refund. I need to look into this again as my single din conversion and mechless Kenwood bt502dab it sits very light and rattles a little also which is annoying.

Good response @lpher it's very vague online and I'm sure many have ordered the connects2 kit to find out it's not correct, unless they already had all the stereo out. I may look into getting one sometime as I miss the use of the controls.

Drive both and decide? Have you owned a T-Sport or an EP3 before? If you want modify either the EP3 is the obvious choice. If you want something different to cherish for the future the Compressor would be better in the long run but that's my perspective.

That's good news especially with the GR it looks superb!

Okay good information and yeah definitely worth doing both. I haven't cleaned the oil screen on mine to be honest but I did the lift bolts within the first month or so of purchasing a couple of years ago, and found mine to be the originals and quite worn but still a lot left in them. You can see it here https://kennyfreeland.wordpress.com/2017/07/06/replace-2zz-ge-vvtl-i-camshaft-lift-bolts-at-105k-miles/ I would like to test mine to see how healthy it is but it's so loud I think most places wouldn't be happy with it! Yes spark plugs for me are overdue too I need to get some this year.

Looks lovely very nice! Will the UK get the model that I've seen floating around in US reviews the "XRS"?

Thanks for the replies so yes I'll give this method a go and hopefully the screw does come away with a bit of pulling while loosening off! I wish I could just leave it but all the rattles I'm getting are hideous not to mention a rattle in the steering wheel itself which is the worse one! I think with the warmth of summer and how it can manipulate the dash plastics it's all just become apparent and I should of inspected the car more thoroughly. On my first visit they worked on the passenger side and failed to refit the glove box damper but that was very easy to sort out, The buzzing rattle I'm also getting inside the steering wheel is not great either so I need to tackle that also!

I'm not entirely sure it was done at the dealership when I had work done although I'd like to think I would have noticed this sooner... My cluster fascia and instrument speedo cluster itself are really loose in the dashboard! I had an air bag inflator and controller recall at a dealership and I don't know if they messed it up but it seems all the mounting tabs have been damaged as my cluster rocks from side to side and my fascia is ready to pull out but is only being held in by the upside down screw at the top. If you want to look at what I'm doing just refer to the video below. I got a serious problem already as I wanted to take everything out and put it all back in properly, but the idiot who was taken it all out before has somehow messed the first screw up (the upside down one) so it's just spinning loose and does not come away! Has anyone got any tips on how to remove a screw that is doing this, it appears to be gripped in to whatever it threads into but is refusing to budge. I've tried to gently pry with a trim tool from the top but it's still very much attached! Any advice would be great thank you.

Did anyone else you participate and any correlation in the results?

In the end I have just stuck with the long standard antenna and not looked into it any further. Thanks to those who gave ideas on this.

Thanks DeTomato I'll give one of those a go, I think I installed one of those many years ago to reduce an electronic interference coming from a laptops 3.5mm output, had it on a wire to another jack it removed this annoying whine of a sound. I don't know whether to consider another shark fin antenna since my signal is very poor with the new standard ALCO 55cm antenna installed. Signal is very weak or I have no signal where as before with the shark fin it was very good unless I was down at almost sea level.