Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by KennyKen1988

  1. KennyKen1988

    Engine swap

    7A-FE to 3S-GE engine conversion?
  2. I used this exact product for the resealing points and followed this guide, just skip the snapped part and it mentions the two bits for sealing. Don't need lots of sealant and just take care in doing up the cover very evenly. Also like you say avoiding the wind is ideal, work on a cold engine and make sure you can do the torque specs, I got myself a 5-25nm specifically for this.
  3. I recall a half decent video on YouTube for the Timing Chain Tensioner although replacing the unit. Personally I've never touched or had an issue with this part but I may consider changing it in the future sometime. The Matrix Is American but uses the 2ZZ-GE. If you take off the valve cover for whatever reason see to it you change the Lift Bolts especially if you have no evidence of them being replaced, also use a sealant when refitting. Keep out the wind as much as you can I know how much of a pain that can be, and for tools a 5-25nm torque wrench is what I went for and found it very useful for engine work. Did my spark plugs last year for the first time, I found NGK Iridium plugs to be the best price:
  4. It was just a used one so not in the best shape, had to spend half an hour on the bench cleaning it up as it was very corroded. Wanted to get a new carrier but I had no choice since every place I contacted only sell the smaller caliper carrier used on the base model Corolla (255 disc rotor). It's a pain cause with my registration entered in a lot of stores will say they have the correct one but its the smaller one, TRW BDA1023 is what it will usually come up with and I think 1024 is for the other side but it's the wrong part. These videos were a big help to me so I'll link them here for future reference: As for using the thread holes through the rotor this did not work for me, the disc was well and truly stuck/fused to the hub face. I was suprised it was stuck so much since the other disc rotor came away with no effort,
  5. Thanks plenty of information I had a feeling adaptions from the US models could be a possibility. Excellent.
  6. Is there a model that has power folding mirrors in the UK?
  7. All finished up today with a replacement caliper carrier off eBay for £25.00. Moving onto the other side the rotor was a pain to get off the hub but got it free using a breaker bar between the back of the rotor and the hub. Spent most of my time cleaning up the slider pins. To be honest the replacent ones from Frentech didn't seem very good at all. I believe the ones on my car look like the original Toyota parts possibly made with a brass outer shell? Either way the original seals are a lot better than the replacements I received so I'm using a mix of old and new for the best outcome. Notes to finish: Comline discs and pads £50.00 for the lot all seem fine. Copper grease a must for backplate disc rotor centers to prevent future sticking. Breaker bar for loosening the all the caliper bolts (wouldn't of happened with a standard socket wrench.) Wire brush for cleaning off all the old dust and rust. Don't buy a slider guide pin set unless you need them you might find your originals are better with a good cleanup. Trombone brush inserted into the caliper carrier guide holes for cleaning works a treat.
  8. Found out the problem basically the anti rattle shim had snapped on the top of the caliper so it was clipping the top of the disc rotor. Annoyingly on the osf caliper carrier one of the sliders is completely seized in so the brakes need a good overhaul. I tried my best to remove the seized slider but it's been impossible for me. I got new discs, pads, slider kit and I've sourced a used but hopefully fully functioning caliper carrier off eBay so I really need that now to progress and get the brakes back in action! Will update soon but I think I'm in for a wait as things get delivered to me. Got the sliders so far... Many thanks for the replies so for looks like I'll be keeping a yearly maintenance check up on the brakes from now on!
  9. I drove today and parked to do my shopping for supplies (I'm enjoying naked noodles 50p a pot in ASDA). Got back in the car after ten or fifteen minutes and as soon as I started moving a loud hideous scraping sound starts coming from the driver's side front wheel. I'll try and get the wheel off again tomorrow and see what's happened hopefully it's easy to diagnose! It sounds like a stone is wedged in the brake or the backplate is rubbing the rotor it's a very sharp sound.
  10. There is little to nothing in terms of aftermarket direct fitments. I personally bit the bullet when my center section was perishing so I went all out and got the whole system redone custom. If it's just the back box either get something made up to your needs or source a back box you know will match your goals and have it adapted. There are usually a selection of boxes about online on eBay look for anything jasma approved from other vehicles and looking into system comparisons on other naturally aspirated cars like the DC5 or EP3 can help you get an idea of noise and output.
  11. Okay sure interesting I've removed a reluctor ring before on a different vehicle I've had no issues with my ABS system though electrically. Given the age things are bound to pop up but all has been well recently.
  12. I don't see Cerafix and when I search online it comes up with a medical product. I don't suppose it's called Mintex Cerarec? Thanks Codge.
  13. Thanks codge that link is very useful for parts. So the sound has completely gone since looking at the brakes so it must of been movement of the brake pads somehow although it all seems solid. Thanks.
  14. I ordered that connects2 kit for my 2002 t sport but as you experienced it's not compatible. Luckily the shop allowed me to return it for a refund. Connects2 and the shop states it as compatible but it's not. If you see my posts I've gone from stock to a single din Kenwood. Let me know more on the resolution you are being provided with from Greece please because I'm in the exact situation where I cannot utilize my SWC. Thank you.
  15. As the title suggests usually when I'm at 5-10mph and in various slow moving or slowing for traffic lights when I brake I hear a slight knock or clunking sound from front drivers side wheel. It just happens the once when the brakes are applied at low speed. I've had a look at the caliper/discs/pads and all looks normal. My pads have lots of life but the discs are getting on a bit now is there any other areas I should investigate? When the weather improves I am looking to overhaul the calipers so does anyone know the best way about doing this? Perhaps sending them off somewhere for blasting down and new seals etc? Thank you.
  16. Are you fitting a combination of two different branded lowering springs or do you have two sets? Bilstein are very good and they do a bespoke coilover setup for the E12 and yes again Eibach are a great brand. Quality assured yes these should be great, but are they used? How much do they lower the vehicle? As far as I can tell the E12 in hatch form uses the same suspension setup from base to TS but note the Facelift TS had revised suspension I'm not sure if it sits slightly lower or has different damping characteristics. In the long run lowering springs can have a negative effect since the dampers are compressed as a result there is a possibility they will spring a leak. I have many times considered a suspension change on my car but I've found the ride height and comfort quite valuable over the years so I've just left it original.
  17. I'm pretty sure there is a Connects2 that does work for the pre-facelift T-Sport but I think I was sent the wrong one I'm sure I just needed one with a different type of plug fitment for the final connection. Yeah I have seen the windscreen stick on antenna and I might switch to one in the Spring/Summer. I plan to look into this again so I'm going to loose the splitter and use a separate stick on antenna and also try to find the right connects2 adaptor...
  18. I think for me it's down to the fact my replacement setup is so lightweight. The original Toyota unit is really heavy in comparison like a brick, my mechless Kenwood in the single din is probably an eighth of the weight! It has been a lot better recently so I'm wondering if it's the heat on the dashboard causing movement. Hmm these funny rattles that come and go....
  19. Taking it it right up to the limit and getting a good quick change to second will keep it in the lift band. Being in lift all the time realistically is only possible on a racing circuit of sorts. Having traction control off helps providing the grip is there on the road, you don't want that stepping in when you want the power kept up.
  20. Excllent and let us know of the results, I need to improve the handling of my Corolla.
  21. I was really debating on snipping the connections and rewiring but I was unsure if it would work at all. I decided not too since I wouldn't be able to send the product back for a refund. I need to look into this again as my single din conversion and mechless Kenwood bt502dab it sits very light and rattles a little also which is annoying.
  22. Good response @lpher it's very vague online and I'm sure many have ordered the connects2 kit to find out it's not correct, unless they already had all the stereo out. I may look into getting one sometime as I miss the use of the controls.
  23. Drive both and decide? Have you owned a T-Sport or an EP3 before? If you want modify either the EP3 is the obvious choice. If you want something different to cherish for the future the Compressor would be better in the long run but that's my perspective.