KennyKen1988

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Everything posted by KennyKen1988

  1. I think for me it's down to the fact my replacement setup is so lightweight. The original Toyota unit is really heavy in comparison like a brick, my mechless Kenwood in the single din is probably an eighth of the weight! It has been a lot better recently so I'm wondering if it's the heat on the dashboard causing movement. Hmm these funny rattles that come and go....
  2. Taking it it right up to the limit and getting a good quick change to second will keep it in the lift band. Being in lift all the time realistically is only possible on a racing circuit of sorts. Having traction control off helps providing the grip is there on the road, you don't want that stepping in when you want the power kept up.
  3. Excllent and let us know of the results, I need to improve the handling of my Corolla.
  4. I was really debating on snipping the connections and rewiring but I was unsure if it would work at all. I decided not too since I wouldn't be able to send the product back for a refund. I need to look into this again as my single din conversion and mechless Kenwood bt502dab it sits very light and rattles a little also which is annoying.
  5. Good response @lpher it's very vague online and I'm sure many have ordered the connects2 kit to find out it's not correct, unless they already had all the stereo out. I may look into getting one sometime as I miss the use of the controls.
  6. Drive both and decide? Have you owned a T-Sport or an EP3 before? If you want modify either the EP3 is the obvious choice. If you want something different to cherish for the future the Compressor would be better in the long run but that's my perspective.
  7. That's good news especially with the GR it looks superb!
  8. Okay good information and yeah definitely worth doing both. I haven't cleaned the oil screen on mine to be honest but I did the lift bolts within the first month or so of purchasing a couple of years ago, and found mine to be the originals and quite worn but still a lot left in them. You can see it here https://kennyfreeland.wordpress.com/2017/07/06/replace-2zz-ge-vvtl-i-camshaft-lift-bolts-at-105k-miles/ I would like to test mine to see how healthy it is but it's so loud I think most places wouldn't be happy with it! Yes spark plugs for me are overdue too I need to get some this year.
  9. Looks lovely very nice! Will the UK get the model that I've seen floating around in US reviews the "XRS"?
  10. Thanks for the replies so yes I'll give this method a go and hopefully the screw does come away with a bit of pulling while loosening off! I wish I could just leave it but all the rattles I'm getting are hideous not to mention a rattle in the steering wheel itself which is the worse one! I think with the warmth of summer and how it can manipulate the dash plastics it's all just become apparent and I should of inspected the car more thoroughly. On my first visit they worked on the passenger side and failed to refit the glove box damper but that was very easy to sort out, The buzzing rattle I'm also getting inside the steering wheel is not great either so I need to tackle that also!
  11. I'm not entirely sure it was done at the dealership when I had work done although I'd like to think I would have noticed this sooner... My cluster fascia and instrument speedo cluster itself are really loose in the dashboard! I had an air bag inflator and controller recall at a dealership and I don't know if they messed it up but it seems all the mounting tabs have been damaged as my cluster rocks from side to side and my fascia is ready to pull out but is only being held in by the upside down screw at the top. If you want to look at what I'm doing just refer to the video below. I got a serious problem already as I wanted to take everything out and put it all back in properly, but the idiot who was taken it all out before has somehow messed the first screw up (the upside down one) so it's just spinning loose and does not come away! Has anyone got any tips on how to remove a screw that is doing this, it appears to be gripped in to whatever it threads into but is refusing to budge. I've tried to gently pry with a trim tool from the top but it's still very much attached! Any advice would be great thank you.
  12. Did anyone else you participate and any correlation in the results?
  13. In the end I have just stuck with the long standard antenna and not looked into it any further. Thanks to those who gave ideas on this.
  14. Thanks DeTomato I'll give one of those a go, I think I installed one of those many years ago to reduce an electronic interference coming from a laptops 3.5mm output, had it on a wire to another jack it removed this annoying whine of a sound. I don't know whether to consider another shark fin antenna since my signal is very poor with the new standard ALCO 55cm antenna installed. Signal is very weak or I have no signal where as before with the shark fin it was very good unless I was down at almost sea level.
  15. Old post but to show an example of a setup I had working very well: Corolla T-Sport 2002 --------------------------------------- Kenwood KMM-BT502DAB eBay budget FM/DAB+ Splitter eBay shark fin antenna ---------------------------------------- This setup worked well, all I had was some breakup on low coastal roads. Where I live I'm at sea level almost and have lots of hills. I actually tried to improve things by ditching the shark in place for an original but longer 55cm antenna and now the reception is really poor. Basically if you get a setup that works well just stick with it!
  16. Yes two the connections were fine, that being the standard ISO harness adaptor and the speaker wiring. I can imagine there could be a simple adaptor harness but I cannot find one for sale anywhere. Connects2 supports to the Corolla yes but not the T-Sport model with the original "W58802" because this clearly has a different plug fitment to other Corolla models. Please see the image I've highlighted the plug that doesn't fit the T-Sport. I looked at many sites prior to ordering and never saw any other vatiations available. I went all over the net and looked at other brand variations such as Autoleads and some companies in the US through YouTube. The Rav4, Avensis all have similar setups so it was just just my luck when I realized the Corolla T-Sport had some different plug! I think if you got the 1.4, D4D, T-Spirit etc. you will have no problem with compatibility. I'm not sure why the T-Sport is different, maybe its something to do with the other onboard electronics, the climate control and where information goes. Just to top things off, I got my stereo mainly for DAB+ and had a budget "shark fin" antenna attached which looked nice but I got signal break up when driving down on the lower coastal roads. I decided to get a rather large 55cm original antenna, ditching the shark fin I fitted a year or so ago...the signal is worse! Now I got predominant break up all the time. Oh well at least I got an engine note to enjoy!
  17. As the title suggests is there an adaptor kit for the Corolla T-Sport? I just installed a Kenwood KMM-BT502DAB into my 2002 Corolla and went with the Connects2 CTSTY001.2 http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTSTY001.2 This is supposed to compatible with Corolla models spanning 2001-2011 according to the store "Dynamic Sounds" but during install one of the plugs (one with the three pins) is not compatible with the Corolla T-Sport harness at all, only the other two main ISO and audio plugs are fine. Luckily this is a good store who apologized and I was able to return this adaptor. I have settled with a Halfrauds ISO adaptor just to finished off my installation but obviously I have no wheel controls anymore 😞 Connects2 said they do not support the Corolla when I asked via online technical ticket, so is there no wheel adaptor for the T-Sport? Has anyone had the same experience? Thank you.
  18. I've just been working on this area last week for my own car, I actually required a new matrix as my original one sprung a nasty leak. You'll know if the matrix is working because it gets very hot! The hard pipes in the passenger footwell connecting to the matrix and the matrix itself will get too hot to touch. Before I replaced mine the heating was very poor, and upon investigation the old matrix was full of blue bits and pieces I believe from someone using incorrect blue coolant.
  19. My 2002 corolla t sport had an advisory for an inner steering joint, though my steering has never felt bad in anyway.
  20. It appears to be 100% sorted now and my heating had improved massively! The car is toasty warm inside... Anyway after all the faffing I decided to go against the instructions and fit the O rings into the recesses of the new heater matrix first, add lubricant then fit the pipes. As you can guess they slotted in perfectly! I took them out again checked the O rings to make sure they didn't jump past their seated lip and went ahead with doing them up. I ran the car up for temp for about 30 minutes just to be sure I just left the ECU aside and all the plastic airflow pieces off to inspect the matrix. The pipes and matrix soon got hot and I've just replenished the system with water for now but I will be getting the correct coolant asap! So just to finalize the new matrix is a worthy buy in this case I had to get one but if your heating is poor it seems swapping out for this type makes a huge difference my matrix must of been really bunged up! I must mention when fitting the new matrix I decided to do the cutting trick and hacksaw the plastic edge which means you loose one ECU mount screw point but it improves the accessibility massively. Some attached photos to show some difference from the old and new:
  21. The initial link yes that is the one I have ordered and they said it was the correct one to have in my case. MRH0740. The one they have sent me is the 740 although its not printed on the invoice someone has written "0740" on the bottom corner of the sheet. I have been advised by the seller the pipes should go in all the way, and to test without the o rings first. Also been told to lubricate more and twist a little while pushing so I'll try this now.
  22. Thanks for replying. Yes it is metal to metal, the coolant hard pipes go into the matrix inlet/outlet holes. I had to remove the old O rings from both pipes before sliding on the new ones with lubricant added as per recommendation on the the stores instructions bundled with the matrix. I think based on your ideas I'm going to take the matrix back out tomorrow and double check the fittings against my old one. No I don't have the rotary dials, everything is button based on my car, temperature specific choosing via push buttons with the small LCD which means climate control right? I did contact the store beforehand stating my car model, engine, year and registration and they pointed me to the correct item listing (I think)... I have literally relayed the same message to them so hopefully I'll get an answer tomorrow about it. The O rings and fitting clamps are all just like the original Toyota ones and I did have to reference the dimensions of my old matrix to them also so I'd be surprised if this was somehow the wrong one! I'll put the old one back in tomorrow and see how easy the pipes offer up if they seem snug and secure then I'm worried the fitment holes for this new matrix are too small! I would like to mention I have tried the new matrix both ways round also, I noticed the old matrix must be directional as it has a plastic stopper of sorts in one hole? Does this prevent major blockages or supposed to stop back flow? Anyway the new matrix does not have this. Its just like whats said in this thread " I took a while trying to get the pipe to mate up with the matrix close enough. So....... did it work I hear you ask ?????  " Anyway pitch black now and it was too dark even at 15:00 so its out first thing tomorrow where's that head torch! I also just read this here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1292571 "Destroy the connectors on the old matrix freeing the pipes then gently bend them out of the way and bobs your uncle, the heater matrix just slides out from behind the centre console. " There are two metal pipes coming from up high in the bulkhead down into the matrix. The standard Toyota part comes with these pre fixed and is a full dash out job as a result but I bought (luckily as it was all guess work) a patent replacement part off eBay for around £80 which uses the original pipes and comes with new fixing clamps. This is really confusing now, so the original Matrix comes with the hard pipes attached? This is a bit odd it has removable clamps at the matrix and O ring seals? Can anyone confirm this? http://www.motoradsonline.co.uk/categories/Car-Heaters/Toyota-Car-Heaters/Toyota-Corolla-Car-Heaters/ See the variety of Matrix types from Motorads, I've got the first one which does fit snug in my heater matrix surround hole but there is also the other type which I think is a little thinner and smaller in dimensions (less bulky). Check out the photos which show the mating clamps they hook over both sides of the heater matrix and heater pipe lips.
  23. Thanks for the assistance and linking so for its been vital! I got the new matrix today from motorads it's copper and brass I believe and supposed to be an improvement over the original. I have a question regarding how well my coolant pipes should fit to this new matrix. On my old one the pipes seemed pretty snug and I had to give them a little tug for them to come out, but on this replacement the hard pipes go in but do not grip in well at all? I'm currently trying to do the clamps up while holding the pipes into the matrix otherwise they just come straight out. Does this sound normal? I have followed the instructions printed with the matrix and lubed the o rings. The pipes seem to go as far as where the o ring sits on the pipes and no further? Any advice would be great. Ken.