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Mike J.

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Everything posted by Mike J.

  1. Toyota did a genuine towbar for the old Yaris Hybrid. Ask your dealer if they have one for the new version. It was actually called a 'bicycle holder'. Here are the details: Bike holder You also need the wiring, IIRC. I think it was a £1000 option - I have only seen one car with it fitted.
  2. My Yaris Hybrid was not slow or weak. The peak torque is higher than your old Polo (around 270Nm). It will out accelerate most non-EV cars from standstill - the 0-30mph is under 4 seconds. It used to spin wheels with the electric motor and then the petrol motor (when it spooled up) when pulling away at full power on a 'moist' road.
  3. Your local Toyota dealer. Mine cost around £150 3 years ago.
  4. It seems Teslas are far better, check out US mpge figures here. The i3 is still good due to low weight.
  5. My insurance went up from £210 (Yaris) to £250 (i3) a year. If you have a non-zero VED Yaris, you are quids in.
  6. Yes there is ...... I would have bought a Yaris PHEV, but obviously it didn't exist. So I went for the best city car - the BMW i3 with range extender. Better performance, head lights and turning circle than the Yaris hybrid. Pre-conditioning is great, plus the 1/3rd the cost of 'fuel'. With the internal petrol generator, it is like a PHEV. Downsides: reliability and instability during high crosswinds when compared to the Yaris.
  7. The Yaris Hybrid brake booster vacuum is created by an electric motor, same as the heater pump and the aircon compressor! You can hear the booster pump when you first open the driver's door.
  8. I never experienced that at all in my Yaris. With a hot engine, interior temp as requested and non-empty battery, the ICE always turned off when car became stationary, if not before.
  9. More info on the early Yaris Hybrid. MG2 is the traction motor and is mechanically connected to the front wheels. It does 2 things, power the car (and aids the ICE) and charges the battery via regenerative braking only. MG1 is a smaller motor/generator. It does 3 things, start the ICE, charge the battery via the ICE and tweaks the epicyclic gear box ratio for the ICE (the motor can go backward and forwards powered by the traction battery) - that is why you need lots of good software for the hybrid to work. On the later Prius and the new Yaris MG1 has another mode because there is a 'dog clutch' (IIRC) between it and the ICE. This allows MG1 to aid MG2 and so higher EV top speeds can be achieved - MG1 is probably in starter mode, but the 'dog clutch' diverts power to the road.
  10. Not in my experience of a first gen Yaris Hybrid. On a winter's morning with the car stationary and heating set to defrost the windscreen the ICE has to run and it will fill up the battery. Once filled, the charging stops and you can hear the engine note change as the load is removed. The traction battery is only really discharged by motion or the aircon electric compressor (when parked up with car on and aircon on during a hot day).
  11. I find it hard to believe that Toyota would waste battery energy. If it wanted to lower the charge it would use MG2, the traction motor, as it always does to aid the running ICE. Note that the ICE is low torque and the motor is high torque and the software merges them in a seamless way via the gear set.
  12. With my Yaris Hydrid, the max. EV speed from cold was around 9 mph. When warm you could get 27 mph. It is all software controlled and uses multiple inputs (various temps, speed, load, charge, etc.) to optimise 'performance'.
  13. I don't understand this, please explain how the ICE can discharge the traction battery (other than just starting the ICE up).
  14. We are referring to depletion, not deactivation. A deactivated cat will still have all the catalysts - unless internal damage causes stuff to leave the exhaust pipe.
  15. IIRC, in a reaction, the catalyst is not depleted. The only reason to replace the cat part is if it becomes damaged, blocked or the internals have failed and the catalytic components have been blown out of the exhaust system.
  16. Have you considered the BMW i3 with the range extender? It has an SUV like seating position, has small turning circle and is great around town. With the narrow tyres (155) it is better than most in the snow (especially with winter tyres). Even if the battery reduces to 70% over 8 years, the range extender will still give you the same petrol distances. One thing to consider is that most efficient EVs will give average around 4 miles per kWh in the summer and 3 kWh in the winter but, for me (i3 Rex owner), it went down to 2 miles per kWh for short journeys with pre-heating. If you are in slow traffic and it is very cold, this will reduce further - a 100kWh battery with 30% degradation might only give you 70 miles in a bad case. Sum-up, get a PHEV.
  17. When I park up to relax, etc., I always keep the 'system' running (and thus charging the 12V battery) with park set and 'handbrake' on. This keeps the cabin air perfect, whatever the weather. Obviously not recommended in an enclosed area as the engine may start (for heater or traction battery replenishment)..
  18. I moved to 175/65x15 on original 15" Yaris alloys from ebay. No noticeable difference other than a nicer ride - note driving was mainly urban. bluResponse are my tyres of choice. Note wet grip is better with narrower tyres as less rain to squeeze away, same for snow with winter tyres fitted - not that we get much snow in Suffolk.
  19. I actively went away from the low profile 16" alloys and found the 15" with higher sidewalls far better for comfort and no noticeable difference (to me) elsewhere. Using crappy tyres can affect handling far more than a profile change. As regards weight, Parker's Guide shows that the hybrid is only 40 kg heavier than a 1.33 CVT - the hybrid's CVT (including integral electric motors) is very compact and probably weighs less than a 5 speed manual gearbox. With the extra weight (probably due to the under rear seat traction battery) near the rear wheels, the front/rear weight balance is probably best on the hybrid.
  20. Workshop manual that is available online here, so I was not surprised when the price I was initially quoted, for a gearbox oil change, went up ☹️. Note hybrid gearboxes don't really need oil changes until very high mileages - I thought £60 was cheap so booked it in only for them to phone me, nearer the date, to cancel the work for £60.
  21. This is fair - the Yaris hybrid (and all the other hybrids?) has an electric brake booster which fills up a special pressurised reservoir. All this extra stuff has to be taken into account. Similar to changing the 'gearbox' oil - standard Yaris was around £60, hybrid around £250 - the oil has to be topped up multiple times between 'drives' before the oil level is deemed correct, which is time consuming.
  22. Like Toyota hybrids, electric cars have brake disks that rust, tyres that flat spot and 12V batteries that need topping up.
  23. B mode only comes into operation when the accelerator pedal is released. It doesn't supply any regen - it diverts it away (as heat and pumping losses within the engine) as mentioned by the Toyota 'expert' above. Summary, B mode should only be used to increase retardation on downhill stretches (especially if traction battery full), that is all is was designed for.
  24. B mode (engine braking) should only be used on downhill stretches especially when the battery is full (as no regenerative braking available) - B mode effectively connects the petrol engine to the wheels as per the wiki link. The info is also in the manual, search for 'engine braking'. Using B mode by default will get you less mpg as some of your regen is actually spent turning over the engine! More info on B mode from Toyota guy: Prius car review on Car magazine which mentions: "Richard’s expertise begins with getting muggins here to do the most basic of things, like reading the manual. Contrary to my assumptions, the B mode for the CVT gearbox is, as the letter suggests, for engine braking rather than sending more juice back into the battery. And staying in it all day actually uses more fuel, as that mode prioritises engine braking over fuel saving. Who knew?"
  25. Further info on tyres. If the car is not moved for a month or more, flat spotting may occur: Flat spotting of tyres advice
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