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cfc1

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Everything posted by cfc1

  1. We are still up for this.. put us down for the whole shooting match.. incl camping. Les, Anne.. go on.. change your mind and come to JAE this year.. please. It won't be the same without you both, every time we have met over the years your company has been a most enjoyable experience, something I hope to experience again at JAE this year. Even let Hou and Gaz do the organising (I'm sure they won't mind.. right guys?) you can attend without the pressure of making it happen, go on come to JAE please.
  2. See the other thread here... http://www.toyotaown...=0entry989976
  3. There are 3 sensors on the Roadster, 2x in the manifold and 1x after the main cat (not sure.. but maybe the japspec doesn't have one after the cat?) To know what sensor you may need to change you would need to get the error code read, not as easy as you might think because most garages and most code readers readily available cannot read the jap spec ECU, if you can find somewhere to read the code then we can tell you what sensor you may need to change. What I would do 1st is reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for around 10 minutes, this will turn off the engine management light, then drive the car as normal (it may feel slightly sliggish for a few miles, but that wll clear once the fuel trims are re-learned) and see if the light comes back on, if it stays off then nothing to worry about, if it comes back on then you have a problem. If you can't get the code read then you can buy a sensor and change one of them, disconnect the battery after the swap to reset things again and go for a drive to see if the light returns, if it stays out.. problem solved, if it comes back on swap the other sensor with the one you removed earlier... this sensor may be ok and the the one you swap over now maybe the faulty one... trial and error method, remember though, you may need both or all three sensors, although this would be very unusual. As for how to change them... very simple, but you will need an o2 sensor socket.. ebay or your local motor factors can help. http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=83024 other usefull hints and tips... http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65122
  4. It's open to anyone with either a well modified car, vintage/classic car/motorbike/bus/tractor/lorry.. anything interesting. Email me with the details or post them here (paradise_park@hotmail.com) What mods have you done to the corolla?
  5. Fife Historic Vehicle Club FESTIVAL OF HISTORIC TRANSPORT Scottish Vintage Bus Museum Lathalmond Sunday 20th June - 11am to 4pm Hundreds of Vintage Cars and Motorbikes Commercial Vehicles, Buses and Tractors Horse Drawn Vintage Bus Rides Free Entry to the Bus Museum Autojumble and Craft Stalls All Day Hot and Cold Food, Tea and Coffee The Bus Museum is situated at the former Royal Navy Depot at Lathalmond on the B915 (off A823) between Dunfermline and Kelty This event has grown year after year at the Scottish Vintage Bus Museum and is now one of Scotlands premier historic vehicle shows. As some of you may know I have two lovely Boxer dogs... I attended this show last year after organising a "club" stand with Boxer Welfare Scotland (that's where I got my two dogs from) and we raised over £300 for the charity. http://boxerwelfares...transport09.php I have been asked to do it again this year, this is where some of you can help, I need cars... either classiic, vintage or well modified. We will have space for 8 cars and out stall, do you want to attend this show and have a good day out into the bargain? it's free to enter and you would be helping raise funds for what in my opinion is a very worthy cause, you won't need to do anything more than park your car up and enjoy the show the same as you would with any other. I will point out now that the date of this show (Sunday 20th June 2010) is the same day as Cars n Rides at Loudon Castle, but if youu are not going to that the please consider this show :) Put your name down if you are iterested. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8
  6. Fife Historic Vehicle Club FESTIVAL OF HISTORIC TRANSPORT Scottish Vintage Bus Museum Lathalmond Sunday 20th June - 11am to 4pm Hundreds of Vintage Cars and Motorbikes Commercial Vehicles, Buses and Tractors Horse Drawn Vintage Bus Rides Free Entry to the Bus Museum Autojumble and Craft Stalls All Day Hot and Cold Food, Tea and Coffee The Bus Museum is situated at the former Royal Navy Depot at Lathalmond on the B915 (off A823) between Dunfermline and Kelty This event has grown year after year at the Scottish Vintage Bus Museum and is now one of Scotlands premier historic vehicle shows. As some of you may know I have two lovely Boxer dogs... I attended this show last year after organising a "club" stand with Boxer Welfare Scotland (that's where I got my two dogs from) and we raised over £300 for the charity. http://boxerwelfarescotland.co.uk/pages/festivalofhistorictransport09.php I have been asked to do it again this year, this is where some of you can help, I need cars... either classiic, vintage or well modified. We will have space for 8 cars and out stall, do you want to attend this show and have a good day out into the bargain? it's free to enter and you would be helping raise funds for what in my opinion is a very worthy cause, you won't need to do anything more than park your car up and enjoy the show the same as you would with any other. I will point out now that the date of this show (Sunday 20th June 2010) is the same day as Cars n Rides at Loudon Castle, but if youu are not going to that the please consider this show :) Put your name down if you are iterested. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8
  7. No problem... but I got lucky I guess
  8. Send Steve a PM, it will get sorted, so don't worry about it too much :)
  9. I had a search on google images for Paluse car audio, and found this... http://translate.goo...3D1%26ndsp%3D21 There were other images which led to japanese sites which seem to sell Pal-use antenna's for cars (anything strange in your sunvisors? lol) What I think you may have is either some kind of amplifiers or digital tv arials.
  10. cfc1

    Locking Nuts

    Locking nut removal tool.. looks like you are talking about an easy-out, it has a left handed thread, you drill into the locking nut untill it eventually goes tight and starts loosening the nut. If the locking nut in question is hardened steel (which I'm sure tri-locks are NOT) then this method is very very difficult. Can get them apart easily enough.. bench vice, hammer, punch.. out it comes with a good old fashioned whack or two. In 20 years as a tyre fitter I haven't, nor have I seen any of my colleagues damage the threads on the stud when hammering a socket over a locking nut to remove it, I'm not saying it can't happen.. but it must be a rare occurrence. It's all fine and well to replace the locking nut with a standard nut, it will still hold the wheel on (obviously), also... as said.. locking nuts will only deter the oppertunistic theif, if anyone really wants your wheels they will simply use the quicker method of stealing youir car, drive to somewhere they can make as much noise as they want to remove the locking nuts.... but, not replacing the locking nut with another locking nut can void your insurance, if the car comes standard with locking nuts your insurer can void your policy and refuse to pay out if you have a theft, so check with and get written approval from your insurer before replacing them with standard nuts.
  11. cfc1

    Locking Nuts

    I've replied to your thread in Generals.. but as said above, if you have the little card that comes in the box then take it to the dealer, they can order a new key for it.
  12. I would have thought Toyota could look up the cars vin number and match it up with the original lock nut that came with the car from new, I know other dealers can do this. If not and you need to get them removed by force.. sod Toyota's 56 quid a corner.. your local tyre place might be able to get them off for a tenner a corner, or free if it only takes then five minutes (depends how tight they are and what they will use to get them off). You could try getting them off yourself.. I assume its the standard McGaurd locking nut? simillar to this... Some of these have an outer "ring" that will move idependantly of the centre part which will vary in thickness, in the picture it is fairly thin. What you need is a good quality spline socket and a heavy(ish) hammer, you want the socket to be as tight as you can hammer over the nut, once on and if it's a tight enough fit, it will press the outer ring tightly onto the nut, then if the nut isn't on the wheel too tightly you will be able to put a power bar into the socket (protect the end of the socket when hammering it on so you don't damage this part lol) and loosen it off. Just noticed your in Kelty, pop down to Crossgates (Fairdeal) we take a fiver a corner.. sometimes we can get them off, sometimes we can't... but worth letting us have a look? Just noticed your other thread and see you have tri-lock locking nuts, again it's the same removal process and we can have a go for you.
  13. I like it.. but can we get the "view new posts" button back when you get the chance please. It's ok.. I found it
  14. I guess you are just testing to see if there is a market for it, so I voted yes... there are some cracking examples out there, a lot have even been done to cars who have featured in the countries top magazines. obviously it would depend on the quality and price, but if it was right then yes.. I see no reason not to do a re-trim rather than buy a new interior.
  15. Ah! I see what you were meaning now, this type of sensor is few and far between.. most are sealed to the stem, I can't think off the top of myy head what cars in the UK have this typew.. possibly some VW's and maybe the odd GM car. I couldn't tell you the last time I saw one like that.. but in my defence I don't look for it as we don't change the valves when replacing the tyres unless the are broken (renaults are famous for the head comining off when people are checking their tyre pressures.. and we just use a blade and cut them out as more often than not, the nut that holds them on has welded it'self to the valve stem lol. You would have to look at the Rav 4 assembly next time a tyre needs changed to see if the stem can be unscrewed from the sensor.
  16. I assume you mean point 4.... What we have in the picture is... 1. The nut that holds the valve stem itself to the wheel (velve stem without the other parts attatched pictured below) 2. The rubber grommet that makes the seal between the valve stem and the rim 3. The little shrader valve that screws into the valve stem.. you know the bit you can press to let air out. (this is the part with the red seal in the picture) 4. The valve cap. Valve Stem/Sensor on it's own There are variations of this type of sensor, but only in the way they seal, some only have a grommet at the bottom with a washer and nut a the top, others have two rubber grommets that go between the rim and the sensor and between the valve stem and the rim.. one on both sides of the hole in the wheel, while some have a built in rubber seal on the stem and the nuts (there are two, one locks onto the other to prevent it coming loose) screw on from the bottom, some with some without a washer and rubber grommet. I think by "servicing" they mean how they replace the valve/sensor and reprogramme it to the car, they mention scan tools so I would guess there are aftermarket scan tools for doing this at home, much in the same vane as we have aftermarket OBDII code readers. Maybe not.. just read this bit relating to the Rav 4.. As for serviceable parts withinn the sensor, I'm afraid it's a sealed unit and once you open it up it's knackered.. done some investigating on a broken Renault sensor lol... doesn't look like much inside. XClick for larger picture.
  17. You are right in saying that the electronics are in the black plastic bit, but it can't be replaced seperately as it is part of the valve stem.. it is all the one unit, same as on the Renaults etc, so sywy is correct. Standard valve stem (TR414) Toyota TPMS valve stem The full unit can be replaced, but it then has to be programmed to the car.. it can turn out to be a costly part. Also noticed this on the site... Reinforces what I said about the repair stuff... don't use it.
  18. I have no experience of the Rav 4 runflats as it is only approoved Bridgestone dealers who are allowed to fit them.. mostly Toyota dealerships. I know that the runflats on a Rav 4 use the Bridgestone Support Ring, which is an insert that goes into the wheel.. I don't think the actuall tyres have a self supporting sidewall which is an actual runflat tyre (SSR, RFT's etc) I think it may well be a normal tyre with the ring fitted. These can be repaired (i'm sure I read on here a member got one repaired... but it cost him £70 for the privailage) as for SSR/RFT type tyres.. the tyre industry can't seem to make it's mind up whether or not it is safe to do so... Bridgestone never allowed a repair on their tyres.. then changed there minds and allow one "plug type" repair. Goodyear now allow one "plug" type repair on their tyres after previously saying no... even when it states on the sidewall "do not repair after runflat operation" (how doea a tyre fitter know it hasn't had "runflat operaton"?.. ask the costomer who knows if he says it has he will be spending well over £100 for a replacement???) newer Goodyear tyres have the warning worded differently now I think. Dunlop will allow their runflats to be repaired, but whoever carries out the repair is responsible for the warranty of the tyre.. even if another problem unrelated to the reapair comes up. There are more examples, but I won't go into them.. but I'm sure you get the Idea. If a normal tyre has been ran flat there is damage to the sidewalls of the tyre which is clearly visible, high temperatures and the wheel rim will chew up and melt the inside of the tyre.. with runflat tyres this type of damage isn't visible, so there is know way a tyre fitter can tell if the tyre is safe to repair. Also.. runflat tyres cannot be repaired if they have been driven in "runflat" operation for more than 50 miles or at speeds greater than 50mph... again, how does a tyre fitter know if this is the case?.. ask the costomer who knows if he says it has he will be well out of pocket, he/she will inevatably say no it hasn't.
  19. Good stuff IF and I do mean IF with a capital I it works. The seller is obviously going to tell you it is safe and works 100%, he won't sell any if he says it isn't and doesn't.. will he? I'm a tyre fitter and have had a lot of experience with these type of repair kits.. with a varied degree of failure.. yes, failure each and every time, some do absolutely nothing while others slow it down a little. I have yet to see any of this type of product work 100%.. I have even had a sales rep in the garage trying to get us to sell it, he gave us a demonstration of his product.. he put a nail through a tyre and it went "pssssssssst", he filled with this stuff, bounced the wheel and rolled it around... "psssssst", he put more in.."pssssssst", got another bottle incase the one he used was faulty.. "pssssst".. he went out to his van to "get something"... he drove offand never came back. I have also asked my costomers what they thought of the stuff they used and every one of them have said they would never buy it again. Then there is the problem it creates.. you take your punctured tyre to your local tyre shop to get a proper repair carried out, but the inside of the tyre is covered in... Foam/Milky Fluid or thick green slime (yes it says no mess on the bottle.. there is, but it's on the inside)... to get a proper repair on a tyre it has to be 100% free from dirt and greese.. 100% clean.. any contamination and the repair won't adhere to the tyre, some of these products clean out without many problems, but then there is thick green or purple gunk (must be two different brands) which is a complete and utter nightmare to clean off, even when useing a buffing solution we can't be sure it is 100% free from contamination and the result is the tyre cannot be repaired or the repair fails a short time later. There is also a slim possibility you do find a product that works, what happens when you forget you have a puncture after putting this stuff into your tyre??? well, your tyre stays up... even with that 2" nail/screw you have within half an inch of your sidewall.. you know, the one you don't know is there because you never looked, you just put the stuff in the tyre and blew it up again... what happens is that it will eventually blow out, possibly when you are on the motorway doing 70mph with you family in the car... do yourself a favour.. don't buy these products.. get a proper repair done, if you can't put your spare on or you don't have one.. join a breakdown company such as the AA, RAC or Green Flag (you might even have some sort of membership through your insurer) and phone them out to help you get to a tyre shop.
  20. These two might be more what you are thinking as they have been heavily modified with bacon...
  21. It's best to get it mapped to your own car. If you can find someone with the same car AND same modifications as you have then getting their map will be a good starting point, but it won't give what is best for your engine. Every engine is different.. age, mileage, wear and tear etc etc... and as such each individually tuned emanage will be slightly different. Try the Celica owners club if you have no luck finding a map from someone here.
  22. £5.74 for "a few" pints... what pub do you drink in? Try Blackcircles, Mytyres and Valuetyres.
  23. This is the reason I posted what I posted above, learn the law, know what is safe, that way you can do it yourself and save yourself any problems. Obviously if you are unsure seek proffesional advice.
  24. The law is what it is.. a law, it doesn't mean that because a tyre is legal it is safe. The minimum legal requirement is, as stated above, 1.6mm over the central 3/4 of the tread. As a tyre fitter/manager I will tell my costomers the legal rquirement, if their tyre is still within the boundaries of the law I will advice them as such, but if the outer or inner edge of the tyre has little or no visible tread (by little I mean bearly visible.. not down to 1mm or so) I will point out that it is that part of the tyre that gives grip during cornering ( which is why it wears out quicker.. assuming geometry is ok) and with it having no tread, grip during cornering will be limited. The hope is that the costomer will make the correct descision on whether or not they should change the tyre in the interest of, not only their own safety, but that of other road users and pedestrians. As tyre fitters I personally feel we have to think of other road users as well as the costomer concerned when it comes to giving out good and proper advice, ultimately it is down to the costomer to make his/her own descision. It is unfortunate that there are some people who will want a sale no matter what the condition of the tyre is, mostly because they have monthly targets to meet or the fitter has their bonus to make up, I have had many costomers come to me for a 2nd opinion and I often tell them that their tyres have well over half the tread still on them, in some cases their tyres are almost as new. It is for this reason that I will show the costomer how to check their tyres themselves, I will advise them to buy a digital tyre pressure gauge (about a tenner fron Halfords) rather than depend on a gauge in a petrol stationj forecourt. Do different mechanics read the tread depth differently? Quite possibly, but not always an innocent mistake, as I said the law is the law, it is clear and simple and I don't see how it can be interpretated differently all being fair and well. The best thing you can do is learn to check them yourself.. hopefull this guide will help you do that. http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-check-...-cars-tyre-wear
  25. Thanks for the links and taking the time to look, I showed them to the wife and she isn't too keen on them. The one she had was her full body, dressed in pink with the bow in her hair, her arms were open as if to greet you with a hug... something like this.. Never seen one like it before or since.. even in the Disney Store... might give them an e-mail though.
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