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furtula

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furtula last won the day on November 4 2020

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About furtula

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  • First Name
    Dean
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.6 Executive
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Other/Non-UK

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  1. Just take the whole thing out, if i remember correctly, it's only 2 screws for which you will use 10mm spanner. And also 2 plastic clips holding it. I took both of mine out some 2 years ago, was pretty easy.
  2. It's worth to spend more money getting genuine oil for transmission. I had mine changed 2x on my other car, both times they were really expensive oil, but not directly from manufacturer. Just made things worse, lot of crunching, unable to get the car in gear unless the car is warm, etc.
  3. furtula

    OBD Fuse Blown

    I personally would take the glove box out, to get access to firewall, then try to pull the cables through there, and connect directly to the battery, with additional fuses near the terminals. The glass fuse should have rating stamped on one of the metal terminals, but you need really good light to read it, as letter are usually tiny. If there's nothing present, could just be some cheap fuse with not so accurate rating.
  4. furtula

    OBD Fuse Blown

    Does your camera have a setting that it only turns on if it senses some movement, otherwise it would be in sleep mode?
  5. Considering most people treat cars with very little love, i would keep it. It probably already saved a few nicks in the paint by people slamming their doors into your car at supermarket parking lots and etc.
  6. You checked the radio connector, if maybe a wire is lose? I would unscrew the antenna also, maybe there is some rust causing bad signal, try to clean.
  7. Clutch glazed like it's a cake, but looks like it still had plenty of meat left.
  8. Button start, or key start? I did the same thing maybe 2 years ago, but had no issue. Maybe the unit you installed was faulty. What actually helps when you try to start the engine, key, or button? A lot of people reported that the initial unit is usually ok, but you need to disconnect it for 10 minutes, then reconnect it, and worked fine. Do you remember what was the error code you got on the original unit? If it was relay failure, you can take the unit apart, and test them quite easily with 9V battery, if it clicks it's fine (might need to scrub the protective layer to get goo
  9. The thing i find annoying about this is that brightest is too bright, but any other level is too dark. There's a big gap between brightest, and 2nd brightest. Wish they fitted a classic dial so you can adjust it better.
  10. I think that's just some dampener, some people report loosing it completely, A/C still functions fine without it. It's supposed to dampen the stop/start cycles of A/C, and make it easier on the pump, or something like that.
  11. Sad that such a solution forces you to throw out the tire that could be perfectly good otherwise, but the sealant permanently ruins it. I would opt out for compressor and the repair kit, as noted by TonyHSD.
  12. Does turning off the AC make any difference? Sounds to me like some pulley is dry, and sometimes catching, causing the sound, that could also explain why the issue is intermittent. Did you check the pulleys? I don't know how good/comfortable you are with DIY stuff, but if you loosen the alternator, and move it a bit, you can release the tension on the belt and should be able to spin some pulleys by hand and check them.
  13. Is there any sound, knocking, etc when it vibrates, or just vibrates? If there is sound, is the same sound present at idle, if you rev the engine? From what speed range does it start doing this? Did you balance your wheels? Was it vibrating the same few months ago, when car was on winter tires? Did you test engine mounts? Just try to move the engine around with your hand, feel free to use some force, to see if there is any slop in the mounts. If the car vibrates at idle, and you press the clutch, does the vibration stop?
  14. You need to read again what i wrote, i never said it will fix it self, but that problems might fix itself over time, not that they will. For all i know, the clutch could be 6 months old with plenty of meat, just glazed on top, and that might wear our over time with normal use. As for the flywheel, it should be resurfaced with every clutch change anyway, but not every mechanic does it.
  15. She most probably glazed the clutch while doing that. Could be it just got worn out, if high mile, or stock clutch. There are some DIY deglazing advices, but i would not try them. Just drive the car normally, don't accelerate hard as it will slip and make it worse. Hopefully after some time enough material will be removed from the clutch plate to get it more sticky again. That's if the clutch still has material left. If it's on its way out, eventually it will just slip when trying to start, but it's nothing urgent if it still drives.
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