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furtula last won the day on October 29

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About furtula

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    Auris 1.6 Executive
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  1. Clunk noise on lower speeds, or while at standstill is sadly normal for most Toyotas from 2006-ish to 2010-ish. There are multiple topics about it, and TSB's for Toyota. If this is the only time you get the clunk, it should be the "no security concern" clunk. To try to fix this, go to the footwell, take the plastic boot that covers the steering shaft, try to tighten the nut if possible. If that is not loose, then it could be dried up grease, for this you would need to unscrew that bolt, take the splines apart and apply some lithium grease, and retighten (before you do this, you need to puth a mark on the splines, and put some big clamp on the wheel, or something else to stop it from moving). If you have clunks for example while driving normally, and at higher speeds, then whole different matter. Use search on the forum, the topic has been discussed multiple times.
  2. I do not know if daytime running lights are required in your country, but if they are not, maybe try turning the lights on, this will create additional load for the engine, and it will bump up the RPM's to match. Hopefully it will be enough for the compressor AC not to kill the engine. Also as Mooly said, best would be to get a Toyota compressor and have it fitted.
  3. Don't waste time, OP has not been on the forum ever since he posted..
  4. Is the gar in neutral when this happens? If it was normal manual, i would say clutch is catching on the flywheel a bit, but if this was the case, car would creep by itself in 1st gear. We need more info,
  5. japan-parts.eu, find the part, click on it, and you can ask for quotes, or you can pm parts king here on forum for a quote. I would just drive the car, it's a tiny thing no one will notice except you.
  6. It was same for me, now imagine very hard rain, those would be tiny streams of water going into your boot, and it does not take much to get it full, out of 4 times, 1 was 50% full, other 25%. I noticed that along those lines where bodywork was connected, there was a lot of silicone sealant applied, but at some places missing, and that's where the water was coming in. Since i had some silicone sealant opened, i used it to plug the holes from inside the car. Ideally you should take the bumper off and see if there is some risk of water pockets forming if you plug it from inside. I did not do this as i had water in boot multiple times and large pockets of rust starting (mostly on places where spare tire was interacting with car body), and it was a risk i was willing to take.
  7. These issues are sadly common to many different Toyota cars. I thought i fixed my water leak on right side, only to have it appear now on left, which was dry before. In my case it was not light cluster, but water going around the cluster, down to the bodywork and through the gaps in the bodywork, into the boot. My advice is to strip the back out so you can see the bare body, have someone pout a bottle of water, or spray the car with water, and see exactly where it's coming from.
  8. Yes, sound like auxiliary belt squeal, and Auris has only one, so i doubt it's anything else. I havent asked which engine before i wrote, but judging from the dash its gasoline, so i presume 1.6, so the instructions should be good. Here's a nice instruction manual for 1ZR-FE engine (1.6 Auris 2007 gasoline), so i hope you appreciate the effort put into translating this REMOVAL: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fcorolla-club.ru%2Fdoc2%2Frm04f1ru%2Frepair2%2Fhtml%2Fframe_rm0000027io004x.html INSTALLATION: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fcorolla-club.ru%2Fdoc2%2Frm04f1ru%2Frepair2%2Fhtml%2Fframe_rm0000027im004x.html
  9. Pretty normal, usually if you rev the car a bit, the sound goes away. You should change your belt. On auris it's pretty easy, so you can do it yourself. There is a tightening screw on the alternator, use it to release tension and take the old one out, put new one in, and adjust until tight.
  10. Toyota only has installation manual for free, but i guess if you paid, you could get the removal one, which should be the same anyway, just backwards. https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/1376d890-2ece-42bc-ab1c-a0bff88feefa/Final_Yaris_RHD_Toyota_Touch_2_with_Go_PZ490_0033x_00_AIM_003_207_4.pdf
  11. Lighter sockets to me look to be mostly similar, if not same size. Sites like aliexpress and ebay have them for 1GBP and up (picture below). Or you can call up your nearest breakers place, and get one, preferably from a Toyota.
  12. 1 Looks like DRL and fog lights in 1. If you dont have fog lights when buying, they usually just put a dummy plastic caps, to cover the hole, so i doubt you need to change the whole bumper, you can try popping them out, worse case, you cut out a hole. 2. Aftermarket multimedia units often come with a camera as a gift, unless you buy it with one, no need to buy a OEM one. 3. There is a pretty long topic about cruise control, it should work, but no guarantees. 4. For this you should technically get a lower mpg, as the tires are bigger, and you have more surface area, but then they are lower profile, meaning firmer sidewalls, and better rolling resistance, so maybe your consumption goes up by 0.5L more, per 100 km. Maybe someone who already changed out will write here, or you can try using search.
  13. Some mechanic that must be, good thing he did not try to replace the fluid, and charge you for nothing, or the pump.. Since it seems that you already found possible cause of the issue, can you show us a picture of what you are spraying, or location?
  14. Should be bolted on, just remove the bolts, put bigger washers, or even cut some coca cola can, and use that instead. On my old car i even used high temperature silicone to stuck it back to the car, no issues for 2 years until i sold it.
  15. You can buy that heavy duty rubber trim that people put to protect the back bumper from scrathing, on hatchbacks, should be sufficient. It's sold on ebays, and alike.