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Everything posted by furtula

  1. Cars tend to run smoother with introduction of new lubricant, but ticking might come back once oil is a bit used up. Still, nice to know it's nothing serious. I remember Fifth gear doing a test about normal petrol and the fancy, higher octane one. with additives, sold by gas stations, found no real difference that would support the additional cost. I think the engines are designed with E95 in mind.
  2. I presume you never had the misfortune of electronic steering die on you. Without EPS, wheel feels quite different, rigid and sloppy at the same time, you feel every bump, kinda like you have flat tires maybe, totally different feel. I have driven lots of cars without power steering, even tractors, and they all felt normal, safe, but when EPS died on my Auris, and had to drive without it to a garage, well, it was quite a challenge. Usually what people do on Auris is disconnect the battery, after that unplug the module for some 10 minutes, plug it back in, and it works. Disconnecting the battery only does not help. Or you can replace the module only, with a used one, not that expensive. This is in case the module goes back, which is most common. EPS needs a lot of power to operate, so if you had a bad battery, and do only short trips, so battery voltage is low, might also trigger it.
  3. furtula


    There have been similar topics regarding this, you can use search, but from what i remember, yes, it was possible to get much cheaper battery. I think in some of the topics people even gave part numbers, links, or similar.
  4. What it all comes down to is money. People boasting awesome mpg's, but ignoring to tell you how much they pay for electricity to achieve it. When you add the electricity bill, how much do you actually pay per 60 miles?
  5. After since they switched from VVTI to Valvematic, Auris developed issues with valvematic controller. Simple fix (just replace controller), but very expensive, even with 2nd hand. I think this was sorted some mid 2012, after that it's not that common. Should keep that in mind. You can search the forum for moreinfo , sadly there were plenty of topics over the years.
  6. Any serious garage would need to be VAT registered. Otherwise it would mean that they do so little work that they are not even obliged to pay taxes, more like a hobby mechanic.
  7. You should never trust it 100%. Even with new cars, the most accurate way to measure MPG is to fill to brim, drive, fill again, and calculate it yourself. The car computer is not that far off, i found mine to show up to 5% less than actual value. This is with consistent highway driving. Driving on a mix of urban and rural roads, it can go up to 7% error margin.
  8. Probably, could mean that it's not the gearbox, but something else, or something easily fixable. They are just guessing, like you and me. Try to find a garage that does Toyota's only.
  9. Any clicking sounds, or just nothing? Did you check battery voltage? I thought it might be sticky starter, but then you said moving the car while in gear helps, so could be some sensor. You need diagnostic to check when it fails to start. While driving, does the car behave normally, or erratically? Sputters, random lack of power, etc.
  10. You're overthinking it. I once glued my heat shield back to the bodywork using a mix of mamut glue and sawdust, that thing held like a champ, and it was rubbery/flexible, so no issues. It held fine for some 3 yrs, then i sold the car. Or just do as other people here, unscrew original screws, make big washers out of aluminium cans, screw back, problem solved.
  11. Welcome to the steering knock club. Knocking happens on the splines of u-joint, down in the foot well. Just turn the wheel around until you see the bolt. Doubt it will fix the issue, you need to undo the bolt, take the splines apart, clean, and apply fresh lithium grease.
  12. Could be the noise is caused by wind. Few years ago i replaced aerial antenna, and a whistling noise, would always start at exactly the same speed, some 32 mph. That's why i mentioned that at speed, you should try disengaging the clutch, let the rpm's drop, and see if the sound is still there. Could also be a crooked exhaust shield, or something like that, that one happens often.
  13. Looks like they forced the lock, so i doubt there's any use in changing the key. Maybe try to find some plastic cover that can fit around the lock, to mask the damage.
  14. Well, it's easy when you have all synchros lined up already. If you press the clutch pedal fully, but you have issue getting into some gear, either your oil is bad, or synchros are worn. There is also option of a warped clutch catching slightly, and that would prevent getting it into gear, or at least make it harder, but with clutch fully depressed, should not be present. It it was the case, it would also explain having an issue getting it out of gear. But only way to test this is to jack up the car, put in 1st gear and hold the clutch. If tires spin, then it's catching. I think the gearbox takes 2.1L of oil, but that can be replaced after, as it's easy enough. You should replace slave cylinder since the whole thing will be taken out. It's not that expensive, and better to replace now, then to have to take whole thing out just to replace it in the future.
  15. Looks to me more like warped clutch or pressure plate due to improper use. Hence the clicking sound, maybe some highspot is grabbing slowly while the clutch is 1/2 way depressed. Situation should slightly change for better/worse when car is either hot or cold. Either way, sounds like a clutch job. Could be there's plenty of material left on it, but clutch plate is just warped, for example. I read people purposely grinding the clutch a bit, high rpm, clutch partially release, or something like that, to even it out, and some say it helped. Clutch should be auto adjustable, i think only Aygo of that age still had adjustable clutch. If you grease the joints for the clutch cable, it should give for a smoother gear changes, as Konrad mentioned. Lithium grease is good for this. In 1.6 if you drive at some 3k rpm, press clutch, and shift up, it should pop right it. The speed is ideal, the car also auto revs a bit more to match, so there should not be any delay before switching gears, if you wait 2 seconds, revs drop to like 1.5 and i find it hard to get into gear without synchros kickin in. If you agree it's the clutch, get it fixed. As for the gearbox, i would take the plug out and inspect the oil, or maybe drain the oil altogether, and inspect for shavings.
  16. Clutch on Auris is self adjusting. Most of those rust protection is actually making it worse, as it tends to become brittle, chip off after a year, then just holds salts and water for longer, accelerating the issue. That coat looks to be one of those, but i might be wrong. After the winter is over, go over it and check if there are any cracks, or brittle surfaces, if yes, you will be better off removing those parts, than leaving them on.
  17. I already had a replacement part which i installed. I took the original one apart to see if it's in working order, and it was. Did you check the relay if it's working? You can just get 9V battery and connect to terminals to see if it clicks. If i remember correctly, connect either horizontal ones, or vertical ones, to test. If you want to take out the relay, you need one of those suction things that sucks solder out as it's being liquefied by the soldering iron, otherwise it's almost impossible. Or a heat gun (for soldering) would also work. In the picture it looks like you still got some solder left there.
  18. Sky won't fall down if you don't respect the manual like it's a bible. 5W30 gives you better lubrication with some 2% worse MPG compared to 0W20 Both oils are ok to be used as per manual, so it's up to you.
  19. Considering the age, and if the car is some 100k miles or more, i'd go with 5W30.
  20. I would do 6k mile changes even in a new car. I recently had mine replaced at some 7.5k miles, instead of 6k, even though on dipstick it had good colour, did not look that burned, and was oily, it looked way worse when drained out into a pan. Couple liters of oil and a filter are not that expensive to cheap out on.
  21. That does not really matter since the engines, even diesel are chain driven. So if you keep up with regular oil changes, you would never have to touch the timing.
  22. I also had problems with connectors, they are pretty rigid, and i remember my fingers hurt after that. You should unscrew the module, as it's quite hard to undo the connectors being it's so far to the front, hard to work with, and space is limited due to windscreen being right there. The black thing rotates to lock/unlock the connector in place. I think there are some plastic clips holding it in place, so get a flat head screwdriver or something like that.
  23. Take it out and check the contacts. When it's cold, and does not work, try to wigle the light, to see if it turns on. Ideally check the connections to see if the car sends the power to it or not. If it does not work automatically, and you enable it manually via switch, does it light up then?
  24. Difference between min and max on 1.6 is around 1.25L, so if your are on low, 1L should be enough. The piece of paper you used to wipe the dipstick is already soaked with oil, so the pictures cant be the 1st one from that morning. You only get one shot, once you put dipstick back in, all messed up, and cant read oil, pretty bad design. Don't bother twisting, turning etc, it makes no difference.
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