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xzirri last won the day on March 9 2018

xzirri had the most liked content!

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About xzirri

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    Avensis 2.0 D4 VVTi
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  1. You might have worn out reflectors on your headlamps, which was a common issue on the T25 with xenon lamps, especially pre facelift. Plenty of threads on this forum about it, you might find some useful info regarding it. They were worn on my car when I bought it (less output than my old T22 halogen headlamps) so I replaced them with some refurbished ones. Night and day difference. If the cause of your problem is worn reflectors, putting LED bulbs in there won't help either.
  2. 2009 is the Mk3, right? It doesn't have hydraulic power steering
  3. My car came with 18" Toyota/OZ-rims. The 225/40/R18 ContiPremiumContact 6 are noisy. Comfort is OK, but the 225 width makes the steering wheel feel heavy. I have the 2.0 which does not have the electrical power steering like the 1.8 has so this might not be as noticeable on those models. I have 16" winter tyres as well and they are noticeably quieter. Kinda wish my car had 17" instead of the 18" to be honest. These are the 18" rims:
  4. Got tired of the washer jets freezing during the winter so I replaced the windscreen washer jets with the ones off the mk7 Hilux. They fit perfectly, plug and play. These fan jets don't freeze as easily as the original ones. Part number is 85381-0K010 Hope this was useful 😁 Snapchat-1867274928.mp4
  5. It's just to let you know what the gauge is showing you. It's always going to be lit, same way as the petrol station pump symbol on the opposite side. It is different from the mk 1 Yaris, where there isn't a gauge and the symbol changes colour from blue to let you know it's cold and red to let you know it's overheating.
  6. Hi again! I recently upgraded my radio to a Kenwood head unit and I'm quite pleased with it. However, I have now learned that answering a call on a touch screen while doing 60 mph isn't the easiest thing to do. After playing around with the steering wheel buttons I discovered that the MODE button can be used to reject calls. Still, I have no idea how to pick up calls with the steering wheel buttons. This got me thinking: some of the facelift steering wheels have a separate voice command button. Is this button wired to the radio loom, or to the car computer loom? Is there an easy way to redirec
  7. Finally found a breaker who had boot trims, £40 in total. It was a 2 hour drive, but better than paying £800 for new parts. Parts were off a 2004 model of lower spec but for some reason, the parts seemed to be of higher quality. For instance, the compartment covers had a sturdy plastic backing, which my old ones didn't have. Also, there was some decoupling foam for the rollover mounting points. Now that the mold has been taken care of, would that rust be a problem if left untreated? Should I just spray it with some Hammerite and call it a day?
  8. The mold is actually pretty hard to get out... I noticed that there was some more mold on the opposing trim as well, right at the very bottom edge. Seems like it has started from the "wells" on either side of the spare wheel well. I think I can save the right hand side trim, as the mold didn't seem to have grown into anything major on that side yet. The left hand side, however is really bad. I started cleaning it earlier today with warm soap water mixed with baking soda (didn't have vinegar at hand) and the panel is stained brown. I am assuming the sound deadening felt contains mold as well, s
  9. I'm in the process of sound deadening the entire car and today I took out the trim in the boot. Boy, was I in for a surprise! Turns out the car had been in some sort of an accident that hasn't been registered at Toyota, and judging from the yellow pain markings on the backside of the left lamp housing, the car was fixed up with second hand parts. I can live with second hand parts and some dinged up body panels. However, there seems to be some rust developments where the rear bumper is mounted on both sides. Since it hasn't rusted through and the inside of the car isn't going to be on disp
  10. I installed new struts that were rated at 550N (original ones were rated at 525N) and they were almost too powerful. Now, the tailgate goes up by itself. In fact, when opening the tailgate, the car kind of bounces up when the struts are fully extended. I tried to re-torque the bolts for the ball joint thing on the car body as they seemed to be a little loose, and I over torqued one of the bolts. The bolt snapped, and I had to drill it out. Note to self: always use a torque wrench. I ordered new bolts. However, the dealer told me they couldn't get ahold of new packings/gaskets, as they were out
  11. This got me thinking... I was planning on sound deadening the tailgate as well but I'm starting to doubt if even new struts would be able to handle it. Hmm, I guess I'll see if I can find some stronger struts in the same length. Btw I taped the vertical sides of the numberplate holder with butyl tape, now the rattle is gone. I guess this issue is sorted for now. I'll post here if I find any stronger struts that will fit.
  12. I removed the struts, cleaned the ball joints, greased them up and reinstalled the struts again. I also lubricated the hinges again. The squeak seems to be gone for now, yet the tailgate didn't rise up on its own. Next thing I did was to remove the tailgate trim to try and straighten out a dent. However, once the trim was removed, the tailgate would rise up on its own the way it should. This makes me wonder if the struts are too weak. Is there any easy way I can measure the force from the struts? Aftermarket ones go for around £20 each, maybe I'll just replace them.
  13. MC chain lube is a good tip! I know two people who drive motorcycles during the summer (when there isn't any ice on the road). Apparently, the twisty roads of Norway are quite fun when riding a bike. Great tip regarding the ink refillers, might have some luck finding some at the office. If not, I think I might get ahold of a syringe or something. As for the mirrors, it is not the screws, but rather the plastic of the mirror housing vibrating against the mirror base. I think I need some decoupling layer between the base and the housing. If you think your door sounds tinny, I high
  14. Yeah, the dampers might have been a little past their prime, as the car was about 16 years old at the time of this incident. Got through MOT though. Also, we were 4 adults in the car plus some cargo, doesn't exactly make the suspension respond better, does it. Maybe that is the reason for OPs issue with winds pushing the car. Is there an easy way to test for this? You might be onto something! For some strange reason, most of the times I get into situations like these it is usually German cars in the premium segment.
  15. How did you get the grease into the hinges? Did it creep in by itself after doing the open and close thing?
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