paulie b

Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

15 Good

About paulie b

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If discovered the police would probably determine that you are driving a defective vehicle. You'd be up in court and face a hefty fine and points. It's not worth it for your, your passengers and other road users safety. Why take chances with brakes? I'd advise you to get them replaced.
  2. Personally, if she finds the Aygo difficult to drive and instead of having it adapted (and facing the task of 'unadapting' it when it comes to being sold) she might be better off buying the model of car in which she passed her test? At least she'd know she could comfortably drive the thing.
  3. I'm not sure if you'd be altering the fulcrum point? A longer pedal may equate to lead to less movement at the pivot? It's only a guess, but perhaps something you should consider. If I were you I'd visit or telephone your local Toytota dealer and ask their opinion. It could be that they have come across this issue before they could actually supply some longer pedals?
  4. Inspecting the discs/callipers etc for run out needs knowledge of what to look for plus the proper tool to measure for it. That you were unaware of the potential for this to happen when you first fitted the discs suggests to me that you would be better off having them checked by a professional mechanic. It won't cost much to have them checked and the problem identified. If it is run out it would be better to have them re-fitted, properly torqued and tested by a qualified mechanic.
  5. Yes, old oil and grease are a great anti corrosion treatment. You can't spray it, just remove all the dirt and other crud then lather it on with a brush.
  6. I'm no professional mechanic but badly fitted discs can pull out of alignment with the hub and create brake/steering wheel judder. It's called 'run out'. I'm pretty sure professional mechanics check for run out after fitting new discs by using a special gauge. Certain tolerances have to be observed or the brakes will judder. I guess a google search will give more info.
  7. Hi. According to this, even in NI, the reversing lights aren't part of the MOT on vehicles registered before 1st Sept 2009: Check with your local MOT station. One quick phone call will confirm if this is correct or not. If it is and you can't make the repair yourself, you'll simply have to suck it up and have a mechanic do the job for you. Otherwise, have you any friends or family who could it? As for the 'brown thing', it just looks like a holder for the connector.
  8. You said that the lights were okay when you first got the car? It looks to me as if the wire has been disconnected on purpose? From the symptoms you describe it does appear to be a faulty switch. As already mentioned this isn't an issue with your car when it comes to the MOT, so I can only presume you have need of the lights when reversing. If that's the case I'd simply wire it up to a switch on the dash (not an existing switch but one bought for the job) and turn the reversing lights on and off with that as and when needed. It's a bodge job of course but if you really need the lights and can't repair the actual switch yourself and can't afford to pay someone to do it for you, it's always another option (or last resort). I wouldn't bother though. It's really not hurting anything.
  9. The reversing lights on my last car were permanently on (53 plate). I disabled them and the car went through three subsequent MOT's with no issue. I wasn't given specifics but, when I asked about it the testing station said it wasn't a requirement. Why don't you give the place where you are going to have your car MOT'd a call. They'll soon settle it for you.
  10. It's surprising what a difference under inflated tyres make to handling (not performance). I hadn't checked mine for a while and all four were about about 15% under pressure. Having pumped them up I felt like I was driving a different car!
  11. 2012 Fire manual. I've found I can do most of my driving in 3rd and 4th (urban stuff). I haven't taken notice of the MPH but simply listen to the engine. She's lively in third and okay in fourth - just so long as I don't change up too early. This lower gear driving has had no impact upon the MPG figures.
  12. paulie b


    I've mentioned it before elsewhere, but the fuel gauge on my Aygo is about as accurate as a 19th century weather forecast. It is the only thing which disappoints me about my little car. I have to rely on the trip meter to tell me when I need to fill up. When I got the thing the fuel gauge was indicating half full. I ended up putting about £40 worth of fuel in it to brim the tank! The fuel warning light can be of no use with a system as inaccurate as that. I have got to about 150 miles and the gauge has only lost one bar, obviously the trip meter tells a different story as to fuel used so when filling up it has takes fifteen to eighteen quid to brim. IMHO it is completely unfit for purpose. I've owned many cars and some with wayward fuel gauges, but none even comes close to being as useless as my Aygos.
  13. Hi, and welcome to the forum. My advice would be to take it to your Toyota dealer. From your photos it looks to me like the part of the bumper you mention may just be held on by clips and - if so - they have in some way failed. Without personally inspecting it there's no way I could tell if it could be fixed. You should however be aware that to drive a vehicle which a police officer has reason to believe has dangerous bodywork can result in a fine and points. I'm not for one minute suggesting that it is dangerous, but best to get it to Toyota or the dealer you bought it from at the earliest opportunity for a hands on inspection and repair.
  14. Here's how I used to underseal my own cars. I'd clean the underside/inside the wheel arches to get rid of all the dirt etc. I'd then put two coats of red lead paint on (I guess that will be banned now) That would be followed by two coats of brush applied underseal. As Waxoyl was expensive I put used engine oil into the sills. I'd then finish off by coating the brake pipes and handbrake cable with grease. It was time consuming but very effective. I have also used the old oil/grease trick. Basically instead of underseal, you mix used engine oil and grease to form a paste of sorts then apply that. It was the poor man's method but nonetheless effective. I guess it wouldn't be very 'right on' with with environmental lobby though! As everything else, the best cure is prevention. When things start to rot, you're forever playing catch up. If my own Aygo started to rust and I thought it wasn't worth doing a spot repair, I'd simply chop out the affected part, weld in a plate and make good.
  15. I haven't read through this thread, so if this tip has been posted before then apologies. A quick fix I have done in the past to seal leaky door seals (not on the Aygo) is to get some self adhesive draft excluder - the stuff you put round doors at home. Run it along the outside of the car seal so that it contacts the door when closed. It stops leaks. You can get it from the pound shop in enough quantity to do the job.