Jpadie

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About Jpadie

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Justin
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla Verso 2L D4D 136bhp
  • Toyota Year
    2008
  • Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. Thanks for the reply. The car was reading empty. I filled it to when the pump stopped which was 43l. I think the tank is supposed to be 55l. So 8l delta seems consistent (ish) although not empty.... But this doesn't explain the range itself being given so wildly out of sync with consumption. Any thoughts on that? I'm about to start a 1200km.drive so was hoping that this above all things would work. Maybe a battery pull?
  2. Morning all Odd thing happened at t'mill to today. Or in fact recently. After filling the car with diesel and resetting the computer (twice), and after driving 80km the trip computer is saying the normal 5.3l/100km in terms of consumption and the range is being given as 580km. For a 55l tank and a consumption of 5.3/100 I'd expect just over 1000km range. I'm also finding that the dash is giving low fuel warnings when there are 10-15L left in the tank. Are these known bugs? And way to make the computer read more accurately? Thanks Justin
  3. I bought a second hand key off eBay for 60. And a minivci obd2 plug. With those and some appropriate software it took five mins in the end. One of these days I will look into an eeprom reprogramming solution too.
  4. Thanks @roks Unfortunately for whatever reason the corolla verso is not the same as that model and nothing manual I tried allowed programming the transponder. Remote opening was straightforward. In the end I added a key using techstream. It took five minutes so a relatively painless solution. If annoying that it could not be done like other Toyota keyless ignition systems.
  5. @roks was it a keyless entry lock like the one posted above (seems similar to the prius keys of that generation) if so, can you share the method you used for programming the key to the ignition? I've found your post from July 2012 but there was no information on it.
  6. thanks for your responses. I got a key for £60. the remote opening/closing works fine but I have not found a way to programme the transponder. I've tried the US methods of pumping the accelerator and brake a number of times; some prius methods of 5 key insertions followed by six open/close driver's door but nothing seems to put the car into programming mode, unfortunately. I've asked for help in this forum so will wait a couple more days for any pearls of wisdom; failing which I will try to find the relevant eeprom and get it onto my electronics bench for manual programming.
  7. I've just received a replacement b23ta for the above car. I've been able to programme the door remote open/close functionality just fine. Tried a number of methods and one worked (involving six open/close of the driver's door). However I can't find any manual method of entering programming mode for the ignition transponder. Does anyone have any tried method they'd be happy to share?
  8. Hi all The spring on the centre compartment of my corolla verso has gone. I've seen some hacks for a workaround for this (spring clips inside the glove box) but I was wondering whether anyone had had any luck repairing this 'properly'. I've got to take the headunit out soon and it looks like there would be reasonable access through that hole. Any tips to pass on?
  9. On the 2008 Corolla I've just bought it seems that the l/100km fuel average is resetting each time the ignition is turned on. Whereas on my RAV4 (same year) and other cars the consumption average is maintained until manually reset. is the corolla behaving normally or have I missed a setting or something? thanks Justin
  10. It's a very cheap car as an 'emergency' vehicle. dealer prices aren't justifiable in this case unfortunately. I'm not that worried about getting the key cut. If I'm completely locked out the keyed lock entry is easily pickable. It's more the plip and transponder function that I'm looking to duplicate. re programming - with my RAV4 this was achievable via a convoluted method of pressing the start/stop button whilst scratching one's head and patting one's tummy. Is there a similar method for adding transponders and remotes on the corollas from that epoch? photo of the fob is attached. thanks.
  11. the car i have just bought doesn't have any reversing camera and the stereo has no aux socket nor bt connection. any recommendation for a reasonable aftermarket screen assembly for the dashboard that does the rear camera and provides a bluetooth connection for alexa auto/phone? I've got an old bt module i can wire in but that doesn't give the reversing camera, and for some reason i find the rear visibility less good in this car than in my previous. or it could be age ... cheap is also a requirement ... ideally around 100£. audio fidelity is not a must!
  12. Hi I just bought a 2nd hand 2008 corolla verso (the 130bhp d4d) yesterday and the seller only had one key. It's the keyless variety where you slot the fob into the dashboad. is there an aftermarket for this type of key? if so, any recommended buying choices? thanks Justin
  13. In the end I used a hydraulic jack on top of the engine. Put levers across the cylinder head cover to spread the load and prevent the cover from.being damaged. Mole grips connected to the injector seat and the hook end of a fabric winch strap between the teeth of the mole grip and the other end tensioned against the lifting arm of the jack. Pump up and the injector seat releases in jumps. Helps to spray carb cleaner around the edges of the seats. And helps to use a rubber mallet to create downward shocks around the seat. Once the injector seat is out a little bit you can abandon the mole grips and wrap the winch strap around the sides of the injector seat and connect it directly to the jack. On inspection injector seats 1 and 3 were caked in about 2.5mm of gunk the whole way down. The others were about 1.5mm deep mostly in gunk. This softened with repeated soaking in carb cleaner and was easily scraped off with a screwdriver. YMMV. Good luck!
  14. @im_ka - I'd be very interested to see the tool you've built. I have had success with one injector seat so far. I used mole grips (locking pliers) to attach vertically to the body of the seat. then used safety cable to wrap around through the mouth of the grips at one end and attach to an engine hoist on the other end. Then pump up the hoist so that there is vertical force on the injector seat. a few light taps with a rubber mallet and the injector seat came out cleanly. On the next injector seat I noticed that, with the same tactic, the entire car was being lifted of its stand and the injector seat moved not at all! I shall soak the piece in kerosene or diesel again for a day or so and try again.
  15. thank you. I was hoping for some rav4 specific tips as the only RAV4 injector video shows a bloke with a steel bar spending 20mins or more per injector. given that the injector connection is brass, that will definitely damage the threads. workarounds are possible of course. it looks like special adaptors and a slide hammer are necessary. I had thought of using a puller on the upper thread, but it looks too delicate. and annoyingly I cannot find 1.5mm pitch threads here in France. All the hardware shops seems to sell only 2mm thread at M12 and M16 diameters.