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Everything posted by Jpadie

  1. Thanks for the reply. The car was reading empty. I filled it to when the pump stopped which was 43l. I think the tank is supposed to be 55l. So 8l delta seems consistent (ish) although not empty.... But this doesn't explain the range itself being given so wildly out of sync with consumption. Any thoughts on that? I'm about to start a so was hoping that this above all things would work. Maybe a battery pull?
  2. Morning all Odd thing happened at t'mill to today. Or in fact recently. After filling the car with diesel and resetting the computer (twice), and after driving 80km the trip computer is saying the normal 5.3l/100km in terms of consumption and the range is being given as 580km. For a 55l tank and a consumption of 5.3/100 I'd expect just over 1000km range. I'm also finding that the dash is giving low fuel warnings when there are 10-15L left in the tank. Are these known bugs? And way to make the computer read more accurately? Thanks Justin
  3. I bought a second hand key off eBay for 60. And a minivci obd2 plug. With those and some appropriate software it took five mins in the end. One of these days I will look into an eeprom reprogramming solution too.
  4. Thanks @roks Unfortunately for whatever reason the corolla verso is not the same as that model and nothing manual I tried allowed programming the transponder. Remote opening was straightforward. In the end I added a key using techstream. It took five minutes so a relatively painless solution. If annoying that it could not be done like other Toyota keyless ignition systems.
  5. @roks was it a keyless entry lock like the one posted above (seems similar to the prius keys of that generation) if so, can you share the method you used for programming the key to the ignition? I've found your post from July 2012 but there was no information on it.
  6. thanks for your responses. I got a key for £60. the remote opening/closing works fine but I have not found a way to programme the transponder. I've tried the US methods of pumping the accelerator and brake a number of times; some prius methods of 5 key insertions followed by six open/close driver's door but nothing seems to put the car into programming mode, unfortunately. I've asked for help in this forum so will wait a couple more days for any pearls of wisdom; failing which I will try to find the relevant eeprom and get it onto my electronics bench for manual programming.
  7. I've just received a replacement b23ta for the above car. I've been able to programme the door remote open/close functionality just fine. Tried a number of methods and one worked (involving six open/close of the driver's door). However I can't find any manual method of entering programming mode for the ignition transponder. Does anyone have any tried method they'd be happy to share?
  8. Hi all The spring on the centre compartment of my corolla verso has gone. I've seen some hacks for a workaround for this (spring clips inside the glove box) but I was wondering whether anyone had had any luck repairing this 'properly'. I've got to take the headunit out soon and it looks like there would be reasonable access through that hole. Any tips to pass on?
  9. On the 2008 Corolla I've just bought it seems that the l/100km fuel average is resetting each time the ignition is turned on. Whereas on my RAV4 (same year) and other cars the consumption average is maintained until manually reset. is the corolla behaving normally or have I missed a setting or something? thanks Justin
  10. It's a very cheap car as an 'emergency' vehicle. dealer prices aren't justifiable in this case unfortunately. I'm not that worried about getting the key cut. If I'm completely locked out the keyed lock entry is easily pickable. It's more the plip and transponder function that I'm looking to duplicate. re programming - with my RAV4 this was achievable via a convoluted method of pressing the start/stop button whilst scratching one's head and patting one's tummy. Is there a similar method for adding transponders and remotes on the corollas from that epoch? photo of the fob is attached. thanks.
  11. the car i have just bought doesn't have any reversing camera and the stereo has no aux socket nor bt connection. any recommendation for a reasonable aftermarket screen assembly for the dashboard that does the rear camera and provides a bluetooth connection for alexa auto/phone? I've got an old bt module i can wire in but that doesn't give the reversing camera, and for some reason i find the rear visibility less good in this car than in my previous. or it could be age ... cheap is also a requirement ... ideally around 100£. audio fidelity is not a must!
  12. Hi I just bought a 2nd hand 2008 corolla verso (the 130bhp d4d) yesterday and the seller only had one key. It's the keyless variety where you slot the fob into the dashboad. is there an aftermarket for this type of key? if so, any recommended buying choices? thanks Justin
  13. In the end I used a hydraulic jack on top of the engine. Put levers across the cylinder head cover to spread the load and prevent the cover from.being damaged. Mole grips connected to the injector seat and the hook end of a fabric winch strap between the teeth of the mole grip and the other end tensioned against the lifting arm of the jack. Pump up and the injector seat releases in jumps. Helps to spray carb cleaner around the edges of the seats. And helps to use a rubber mallet to create downward shocks around the seat. Once the injector seat is out a little bit you can abandon the mole grips and wrap the winch strap around the sides of the injector seat and connect it directly to the jack. On inspection injector seats 1 and 3 were caked in about 2.5mm of gunk the whole way down. The others were about 1.5mm deep mostly in gunk. This softened with repeated soaking in carb cleaner and was easily scraped off with a screwdriver. YMMV. Good luck!
  14. @im_ka - I'd be very interested to see the tool you've built. I have had success with one injector seat so far. I used mole grips (locking pliers) to attach vertically to the body of the seat. then used safety cable to wrap around through the mouth of the grips at one end and attach to an engine hoist on the other end. Then pump up the hoist so that there is vertical force on the injector seat. a few light taps with a rubber mallet and the injector seat came out cleanly. On the next injector seat I noticed that, with the same tactic, the entire car was being lifted of its stand and the injector seat moved not at all! I shall soak the piece in kerosene or diesel again for a day or so and try again.
  15. thank you. I was hoping for some rav4 specific tips as the only RAV4 injector video shows a bloke with a steel bar spending 20mins or more per injector. given that the injector connection is brass, that will definitely damage the threads. workarounds are possible of course. it looks like special adaptors and a slide hammer are necessary. I had thought of using a puller on the upper thread, but it looks too delicate. and annoyingly I cannot find 1.5mm pitch threads here in France. All the hardware shops seems to sell only 2mm thread at M12 and M16 diameters.
  16. In trying to remove the cylinder head cover of my rav4 i am being blocked by the injector seat assemblies. See photo below. The service manual just says
  17. i was trying to drain the transmission of most of the fluid and didn't have a 24mm socket. So used a torx driver to remove the torx bolt just above and to the front of the drain plug. out popped an unfortunately small amount of oil, a spring and a sheath that went over the spring. any thoughts on what the spring and sheath might be? putting them back and then trying again, I have the sheath even more unfortunately remained in the transmission and I now have only the spring and bolt. none of this is fatal as I have to remove the transmission anyway, so can fish it all out and replace. I'm just curious about what it is. The spring was not under any pressure at all.
  18. Thanks Keith. I will take a look in that forum then. Im surprised that people don't do this given the prices of new cars and of Toyota/independent labour. So far it has not seemed like too hard a job although some things have taken an age to get off without a rattle gun. But i do have the advantage of a private garden and some hard standing for the car to be put on stands. Famous last words... By the by I got the prop out relatively easily in the end. Some penetrating oil, some bracing and then the nuts cracked off with very little force. Needed to get both ends undone then give them a damn good hammering and take the prop off from the centre as a single piece. Otherwise too much stress gets put on the universal joint. Then got stuck on the axle nut. Was going at them with a socket that was perhaps a cm too short and ended up getting nowhere other than rounding the shoulders of the nut. Struggling to unstake the nut too. So another week delayed and walking to town and back each day!
  19. Hi i'm quite a way through the service manual in terms of removing the engine from my T180. I'm blocked at two points that I'd love some tips on please: 1. i think I can get the head off without removing the engine. However there is one bolt on the cam cover that is occluded by the turbo, a wee 10mm one. I've tried all sorts of tools to get at it but just don't have access for anything. i can get an open spanner on to it, but the turbo stops me from being able to move the spanner sufficiently to crack the nut. Any thoughts on this, or how to get the turbo out of the way (it looks as though the turbo won't come out with the engine in its current position: needs to be dropped down or rotated forwards). 2. to cant the engine, or remove it (i.e. whichever route I take...) I have to remove the prop from the rear and front diffs (to remove it altogether). I'm stuck on the front diff - I can't crack any of the four nuts, even with a 3ft breaker bar. they're 12mm nuts/bolts and only small sockets will fit on due to the bulge. I've removed the gear shift and select cables but think I'm still in gear anyway; the prop does not easily rotate but it does slightly do so; I'm probably in first. Are these nuts/bolts some magic variety like those gates Gandalf opened with Dwarvish? I've got the car on pyramids, so have about 24" of clearance; but don't have a lift so have to make do with a relatively tight space. I can't get my breaker bar on them as there is too much play in the head. and I can't crack them with a 12" ratchet and hammer. I haven't tried penetrating oil yet as I got ****** off when the hammer dropped on my head, and stopped for a cuppa, only to find my basement flooded... tia Justin
  20. thanks. that's reassuring. it was the oil cooler by the way. re-reading this the day after, having slept and consumed coffee, I realise that i should have written intake manifold throughout ... i'm concerned about using the typical cleaning agents because this is made of aluminium. i guess a power hose is a good starter, although difficult to clean the link from the exhaust to the egr valve with that. dipping in white spirit perhaps? then dremel with a brass brush wheel?
  21. HI I'm in the process of stripping down the engine on my Rav4 T180 equivalent. Mostly following the service manual but occasionally frolicking off on my own in the hope that i may be able to see an easy way of getting the cylinder head off without removing the entire engine. I've got the front of the car off and most of the wiring loom (the ports to the rear of the engine are very tricky - I think I may be able to cant the engine towards the front a bit to get access to them. We will see. I have just taken the exhaust manifold and egr gubbins off and found that the port to the EGR sensor was heavily encrusted and inside the exhaust manifold there was perhaps three quarters of an inch of encrustation everywhere. I assume this affects performance? (I have photos and can post them if anyone's interested). Car's done 200k km. Any tips for how to clean this up properly before reassembly? thanks as always Justin p.s. i've also found that there is a Valeo part attached to the cylinder head behind the EGR stuff. Valeo is a cheap after market brand in France and I can't think how this got there. I've had the car since it was 8 months old and the only time it has gone in for repairs was at a toyota garage (change fifth injector, replace EGR stuff and engine remap). Are Toyota branded dealerships allowed to use cheap aftermarket parts for warranty repairs?
  22. Jpadie

    Source of parts

    thanks, that's very decent of you. done.
  23. Jpadie

    Source of parts

    Gosh. Well we can easily work around that by making a bank transfer. They are more or less instantaneous these days and you would not have to contend with the risk of chargebacks under the card schemes or paypal. But I only want a few hundred pounds of parts and it does seem what you're really saying is that you're not that interested in international sales. Do you have a recommendation for official Toyota parts in Europe (an online vendor that delivers - not the case with the Toyota branded dealers in France who find it terribly difficult to respond to emails or answer the telephone)?
  24. Jpadie

    Source of parts

    sorry - you misunderstood me @Parts-King. I would book the courier and take responsibility for it given a known size and weight. the agent picking up would be _my_ agent. You would be pricing on an ex-works basis. obviously up to you either way!
  25. Jpadie

    Source of parts

    Merci Pierre; j'ai bien compris ton post. the problem I've got is the local Mr T to me doesn't ship and i don't have a car! i'm reliant on couriers at the moment. partsouq is interesting indeed. not sure about shipping delays etc. also their stock doesn't seem to be great. I've tried the other website in the past but they never seem to have anything that I want! they do have the set of gaskets though (pochette de joints). their prices are mad! more than double the (quality) after-market rate. and double the partsouq rate (although there is an extra 20% import duty to be taken account of, so really more like 40% more expensive.