Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Registered Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Keith276's Achievements


Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. The outer flange that holds the actual wheel bolts has holes in it, so you can turn the flange to line these holes up with the bolts further back that are holding the hub bearing in place. The bolts go through the threaded holes in the hub bearing, through the disc plate that holds the shoes and into threaded holes in the wishbone. This video here is about brake shoes, but its the same model Yaris that i have and in places throughout the video you can see the 14mm bolt heads that hold the hub bearing in place. The bolt heads have two lines that look like a number 11 on them:
  2. The bolts that hold the hub bearing in place are accessed from the front of the hub between the brake shoes on my Yaris. I removed the brake drum and removed the hub bearing bolts without much trouble. It took me an hour to free the hub bearing from the car though. There was one small area where i could place a socket behind the flange of the hub and against the disc holding the brake shoes. I then wedged a chisel between the top of the socket and the back of the flange and hit the inner side of the chisel with a hammer (the hammer swinging from inside the wheel arch area outwards). That knocked the hub bearing away a little on one side, so then after a few hits downwards on the wheel bolts, the hub fianlly fell free. I bought the hub bearing from the seller you recommended and its fine. No play and no noise 🙂 So with the job done, thanks again for your help 👍
  3. Sorry for the late reply. Thanks very much for your detailed response which is a great help to me and no dounbt saved me a lot of messing about. I will order the wheel bearing from where you got your third and final one from. I will have a go at doing it myself, but i bet i won't be able to undo the bolts holding hub in place because of rust.
  4. I need to change at least one rear wheel bearing on my 2009 Yaris. I was wondering if anyone can recommend where to get one from, as there seems to be so many different prices for the same part. Thanks.
  5. Its a dirty horrible job isn't it. My face was jet black by the end of each day and even though i was wearing protection glasses, my eyes were full of bits and were giving me a lot of pain for a good few days afterwards. I was doing the noisy work in the day and ended up putting coats of paint on through the night up until 4am one night. I have never been so cold in my life as i was that night. I'm only going to have Sunday to work on the other side this week, so it looks like the job is going to drag on for another couple of weekends. I just want it over and done with.The fuel filler neck will need changing before long by the looks of it, as that is yet another steel part that is just protected by a very thin coat of paint that would have probably started rusting within months of the car being on the road. Toyota could and should do a much better job at protecting the enderside of their cars. I looked under my Dads 56 reg Focus last weekend and its MINT under there and thats a car thats known to be a rust bucket.
  6. I didn't know the French built any of them. One thing i have always respected Peugeot for is the corrosion resistance. I am happy with the drivers side half that i have finished working on and i'm confident there won't be any problems from there for many years, as i got the rust down to clean bright metal and it now has a hell of a lot more paint on it than when they make them. Come weekend and if its not raining, i will start work on the passenger side and if the worst bit, which is the last 7 inches or so of the lip at the bottom of the sill ends up being ok, then i should be able to do a proper job of sorting it all out and hopefully make it last longer than any other standard factory Yaris underbody.
  7. Thanks for the replies and photos. It seems to me that the 5 door versions are more prone to rust in that sill to wheel arch area than the 3 doors. I've never even cleaned the underside of our 53 plate yaris in the 6.5 years we have owned it and its got zero rust along the sills, the lip of the sill or inside the wheel arches. Just a few tiny bits of very light rust far under the car. This black waxoyl spray is supposed to never crack and always stay sort of tacky, but i know what your saying about underseal cracking.
  8. I just bought a 2009 1.3 three door Yaris with only 45000 miles on it. It was a private sale with only 1 former keeper, FSH and the lady i bought it off was really genuine which made a nice change to be honest, as looking for a good yaris has made me feel like i live in another country and almost everything is CAT something or other. The car looked mint inside and out. The spare wheel and tools have never been removed from the car and other than two really tiny dings on the passenger side and some corrosion on a wiper arm the car looked like it was new. I had a quick look under the car and noticed a little rust, but i still thought it was a great find so i bought it. A few days after buying i bought the stuff needed to treat the rust i noticed under the car and went to work on it. After getting right under the car i found that the amount of rust under it is almost unbelievable for a 2009 Toyota. I spent three full days working under the drivers side, removing as much rust as i could with wire brush tools on a drill, kurust treating the bare metal, putting three coats of silver hammerite paint on the whole drivers side underbody and then waxoyl underseal. I park the car facing the other way on the drive to start work under the passenger side and wow...you would think this was built in the early 90's!!! The lip that runs along the bottom of the sill (where the jack fits over) is looking like it will be rotted through close to the rear wheel arch when i start to remove the paint from it. We have an old 53 plate yaris with 132000 miles on it that we have abused for well over six years and there is almost no rust under the body and the lips running along the bottom of the sills have zero rust on them. Did Toyota purposely do something so their cars wouldn't last as long or what? I checked the MOT history of the car before looking at it and its never failed and MOT and the only advisories its ever had were on the last MOT and are for the offside rear wheel bearing being slightly noisy (on the long drive home i would say it was more than slightly noisy) and the nearside rear wheel bearing has slight play. The lady who i bought it off had her three MOT's done with the dealers who she bought it from, so im wondering if that has put them off saying the underside has lots of rust. I find myslef in a tough position having a car that looks, smells and drives like new and with only 45000 miles on it, but knowing the underside is full of rust.
  9. Hi, I'm looking for a Toyota. I would consider anything thats got 4 doors really. I'm in Manchester and would be willing to travel 50 miles or so for the right car. Here is my problem and i hope i don't offend anyone here, but its just how it is....Every single Toyota i look at to buy is always being sold by Mod edit, often pretending to be a private seller of their own vehicle when really they are a car dealer. All of them are overpriced junk thats either been badly repaired or a car they have bought for a low price just to put up for sale at a much higher price. It seems like buying a genuine car off a genuine private seller is a thing of the past. Anyway, i am looking to spend between £1700 to £2600 and i would consider the following cars with manual gearbox only : 5dr Toyota Yaris 1.3 petrol 2007 or later and upto 80,000 miles Toyota Avensis estate 2.0 diesel D4D 2007 or later upto 120,000 miles Toyota Auris 2007 or later mileage depends on what engine it is. Toyotoa RAV4 2.0 diesel, not really decided what the maximum milage i would accept. Toyota Corolla Verso or estate. Again mileage depends on what engine it is. Condition: While i understand the money i have to spend is not going to buy me a car thats like new, the condition of cars i've looked at for the price being asked has been a joke. There is no reason that the money i've gt to spend shouldn't get me a car that looks good and is well worthy of a good pollish. I have been a model maker and a movie prop maker, so i'm fussy about paintwork and can spot a bad respray from a mile off. Thanks, Keith
  10. Not to worry, i didn't read it as being cheeky or anything like that Thanks for your replies. Keith
  11. So i take it there is no way to disable the 20 second auto door lock then. When i had my Ford Mondeo, there were methods to change so many settings like that, so i thought maybe Toyota had the same options. Then again though, the Mondeo had working seatbelts too. Keith
  12. Yeah that would work, but that means unlocking the car, walking to it to open a door and then going back to the house to get the dogs. While doing that isn't the end of the world or anything, you shouldn't have to do that just because they decided to give you seconds to get to your car before it locks itself again.
  13. Hello, i've owned a 2004 1.0 litre yaris for around 5 years now and while its not cost me much to keep on the road and never once broken down, i have to say that i really hate this car. We have the back seats folded up and use it like a little van really for our 4 dogs. This is where my my main problem with the car comes in..... I have to get hold of 4 dogs on their leads and take them out to the car safely, so i unlock the car, put the keys in my pocket, get hold of the dog leads and walk to the car, but thanks to this stupid auto door locking system its all one mad rush, as i know i only have 20 seconds or so before the car locks itself again and i have to try and get the keys out of my pocket to unlock it again. Its a total pain in the backside. A few times i have ended up dropping one of the leads by accident while i'm trying to unlock the car again. I unlocked the car for a reason and i don't want it locking on its own. When making the car, did nobody consider a situation where the owner unlocks the car and then might have to carry boxes or something to the car. If they feel they must have this auto locking system, why didn't they make it lock itself after around 5 minutes rather than a matter of seconds! Also, the boot randomly decides if its going to unlock or not when i unlock the car. Many times i unlock the car, manage to get to it in time before it locks again, only to find the boot is still locked until i press the unlock button a second time. Its not a case of the boot needing the unlock button to be pressed twice to unlock it, as most of the time the boot does unlock when i unlock the car. It just has these random occations when the boot stays locked. My other problems with the car are: There is no air escape for the doors, so 9 times out of 10 when i close the door its not fully closed and i have to open it and close it again. If as i'm closing the door my wife is getting out and her door is open, then my door ends up slamming shut because there is no air trap. The seatbelts have about as much power as the engine. Even when there is no twist in the belts, they don't have the power to retract themselves and we have to manually feed the seatbelts in. My seatbelt never pops out when i push the red button to open it either. I have to push the red button and then pull it out. So every time i park the car, i have to manually pull my seatbelt undone, then i have to manually feed the seatbelt away, then i end up closing the door two or three times. Its just a !Removed! horrible car. Putting the car in reverse is almost always a problem, its either crashing it into reverse like some old american truck, or moving the car forward a bit until its happy to go into reverse. The car ii dangerous on the motorway when its windy. A gust of wind and that thing would be off the road if your not concentrating like a red arrows pilot while driving it. It has to be the most unstable car i have ever driven! The ABS system is dangerous too and has almost given me a heart attack many times. But after all my moaning about this horrible car that i just can't afford to replace, i would really like to know if there is a way of disabling the stupid auto locking system so i can put an end to this race against time every time im taking the dogs to the car? Keith
  14. I'm a Toyota Yaris owner and thought i would say hello before i ask some questions Keith
  • Create New...