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About aurumdeus

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  • Toyota Model
    Rav4 mk2
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  1. In case anyone comes across this thread form Google etc, apparently no you can't replace the engine. The main block is the same, but the Rav4 and Avensis have a different cylinder head even though the engine code is the same.
  2. Hi, I've got a Rav4 with the 1CD-FTV engine, with a snapped timing belt (I bought it like that, it wasn't caused by a lack of servicing on my part!). The valves look like spaghetti. I want to replace the engine, however almost all the engines I'm coming across have been taken out of Avensis or Corolla models. They have the same engine code, but the top cover is different. Does anyone know if it's possible to replace the engine with one from one of those cars? I have all the ancillaries from the Rav4 so I can swap out mounting brackets and components like that, it's just the main block that I'm concerned about. Does anyone have any idea if it's do-able or not? Thanks!
  3. I replaced the transfer box and the rear diff oil with 80W90 at the same time when doing the clutch, about 3 months ago. There was a quiet whine before that I always thought was coming from the rear, and others said the front. However when I replaced the rear diff mounts (which were completely gone) yesterday the quiet whine was suddenly much louder - loud enough to hear over the radio. So it's definitely coming from the rear diff, and replacing the oil hasn't cured it.
  4. Hi IanML, thanks for that information. When I replaced the oil I actually used a GL5 80W90, so it's already the slightly lighter oil mentioned in the linked post. Unfortunately it didn't do the trick for me. I hope that it does work for you though! Luckily the diff looks fairly easy to remove. Easier than the front mount at least which was a bit of a pain to extract.
  5. I bought a 2005 D4D Rav4 in poor condition and have been gradually going through and sorting it out - turbo, clutch, timing belt and water pump, service, fluids, and so on. I was hearing a knock from the back when dropping the clutch in 2nd gear, so I figured it was the rear differential mounts. I've just replaced them (the rear one was barely still attached to the metal ring that holds it) and the knock is definitely now gone. However I'm getting quite a pronounced hum, particularly between 40-70km/h. The pitch rises with speed, and it's only audible when using the throttle to cruise or accelerate. The rear differential has new oil in, and when I replaced it I didn't notice any sign of metal shards etc. The oil was done a while before the mounts. Based on the sound, and the fact that the mounts were bad for probably quite a while, I'm guessing that it's an internal bearing on the diff. Possibly the pinion bearing if the diff has been off centre a lot. Has anyone had issues with this previously? If it's possible I would like to try to repair the diff rather than just replace with a 2nd hand one, which may well also have issues. Are there rebuilt kits available? Is it possible to repair these? If I have to remove and disassemble the diff to identify and order bearings etc, this will take a while. Is it possible to remove the driveshafts, diff, and prop shaft and continue to use the vehicle as fwd while waiting for deliveries?
  6. Hi, As above, I've been noticing that sometimes on acceleration the engine goes "flat" for a few seconds, before suddenly kicking into action. I suspected a loss of fuel pressure so I removed the SCV valves and cleaned them thoroughly using carb cleaner and an ultrasonic bath, using a battery to actuate them continuously throughout both cleaning procedures. Both valves had approx 1.7 Ohms resistance across the terminals which is in spec. Both seemed to behave as expected. I reinserted them, added a cleaning additive to my fuel tank, and went for a test drive with the laptop logging common rail pressure vs throttle position. Graph is below. When the throttle is pressed causing a sudden increase in demand, the common rail pressure is tanking. It stays low for a few seconds, then suddenly shoots up and the car pulls away. Does anyone know what might be causing this? This is after the mentioned cleaning procedure on the SCV valves. A gradual increase in throttle doesn't seem to have the same issues, and the issue doesn't happen every single time. Maybe 80% of the time. Before this the car has been off the road for a couple of months awaiting repairs. There were no issues like this that I remember before the period off road. Included in the repairs was a throttle position sensor, so that isn't at fault (plus output can be seen on the graph). A full service including fuel filter was done about 3,000 miles ago. The timing belt was replaced along with the clutch and flywheel during the off road period, and the turbo was new 5,000 miles ago. I initially suspected fuel pressure based on the instant power kick in, and the period of non use (plus the temperature changing form 30C to 5C). I've searched online but I didn't find anything about this specifically. Has anyone encountered something like this before? Is it worth just running a tank of premium diesel plus additive through it and seeing if that clears up the issue? Thanks for any help anyone can offer!
  7. Nobody knows where I might find one?
  8. I need to replace the turbo on my 2003 2.0 D4D Rav4 and I want to do the oil feed and return lines at the same time. I've done some searching around but I can't find a source for them anywhere. Has anyone done this, and does anyone know a source for the parts? Thanks!