Nick7

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Nick7

  1. Did you manage to get this sorted mate? My issue is still ongoing
  2. Hello mate did you manage to get this sorted? I also have a mk1 55 plate Japanese built Yaris d4d and had this issue since purchase. ive been baffled by this issue and the p0380 code for nearly two years now? 2 of my 4 plugs were replaced the other 2 I was told were tight and Could snap so we’re not replaced. Since then I’ve just had to keep clearing the light when it randomly pops up. Never had an issue starting the car first time even in snow. Usually the engine management light comes on after around a minute or so after the car starts up. Not instantly. Would be interested to know if you found a fix. ?
  3. may i direct you to this post which has lead me to believe it may be the injectors:- what do you think? 1 or more injectors pushing out oil to quickly may be the issue???????
  4. Actually thanks for the link to the thread. If not the injectors then may be :- the MAF sensor needs cleaning which hasn’t been done. (Although mine is cutting out at low speeds - under 40mph?) also even after I replaced fuel filter it threw up the drain fuel filter light for a second along with engine management light when it cut out. Or could be maybe egr delete will solve it? Again if it’s these things why is it throwing up fault code p1229???????
  5. Hi madfish. I doubt it’s fuel pump but will have to get a mechanic to check pressure to be sure. Not fuel filler replaced as a matter of course today. Definitely not egr valve was cleaned manually along with throttle body 2k miles ago. Could be accelerator switch. However when it cuts out engine light keeps throwing up error p1229 which is showing as problem with fuel pump/fuel system. Why would it throw up this code over and over even after I try and clear it each time it cuts out if it was the accelerator switch ? Ive been researching various sources all afternoon and the only solution which keeps cropping up where people have solved this intermittent fault is by replacing one or more of the 4 diesel injectors. It seems that it may be that one or more of the injectors may be delivering too much fuel compared to the others causing this issue? Im not sure but obviously if it is the injectors causing it then as you previously suggest it is a job only for a highly qualified diesel mechanic / injector specialist company. I will Remove and clean the sender unit in the fuel tank and clean the fuel heater unit at the top of the filter housing tomorrow also of any gunk but I highly doubt either of these things will resolve this issue. Pretty sure it’s one or more faulty injectors causing this problem which will need to them be replaced. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
  6. Hello caroline did you manage to sort this? I have the same issue. changed the fuel filter but no good. keeps cutting out at low speeds with fault code p1229? could it be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or something else?
  7. Nick7

    D4D Cutting Out

    Hi Will. Did you manage to sort this issue eventually? changed the fuel filter but no good. keeps cutting out at low speeds with fault code p1229? could it be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or something else?
  8. changed the fuel filter but no good. keeps cutting out at low speeds with fault code p1229? could it be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or something else?
  9. changed the fuel filter but no good. keeps cutting out at low speeds with fault code p1229? could it be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or something else?
  10. Hello mate did you managed to find out what was the issue. Im having exactly the same issue and also changed the fuel filter but not good. keeps cutting out at low speeds with fault code p1229? was it the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or something else?
  11. Hello cyker & madasafish. I’m having this same issue now with my 1.4 mk1 d4d. Would you please provide me with some more detailed instructions on how exactly to replace my fuel filter? There is nothing in the manual or the Haynes guide about how to do this. My car cut out twice yesterday after nearly 10k miles absolutely issue free since I bought it. It threw up and eml fault code 1229 and also the drain water light came on. So I’m guessing my first port of call would be to replace fuel filter In that time I’ve serviced it twice myself using a method which I read on this very forum. Your swift response would be appreciated. o using biodiesel )
  12. Hello madasafish. I’m having this same issue now with my mk1 d4d (55 plate phase 2 facelift). Would you please provide me with some more detailed instructions on how exactly to replace my fuel filter? There is nothing in the manual or the Haynes guide about how to do this. My car cut out twice yesterday after nearly 10k miles absolutely issue free since I bought it. It threw up and eml fault code 1229 and also the drain water light came on. So I’m guessing my first port of call would be to replace fuel filter In that time I’ve serviced it twice myself using your method which I read on this very forum. Your swift response would be appreciated.
  13. Hey cyber my mk1 d4d has just had this light and the engine management light come on after it cut out on me twice today within 5 minutes. Luckily i managed to pull over safety twice and the 3rd time managed to drive it home and get it parked up safely on my drive. Would you please give me instructions on how you replaced the fuel filter on your mk1 d4d as I cannot find anything in the car manual or in the haynes manual and anything I've read so far is extremely vague for an amateur like myself? also did you replace with an original toyota filter or aftermarket one?
  14. I think you may be right but with my limited knowledge and experience i would not want to risk it. The light has stayed off since so hopefully that remains the case. Regards.
  15. Ok mate nice one. Is this the oil you use :- https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361430280535
  16. Nice one for your reply. In terms of the ABS, I'm pretty sure that my model has it (although I will look out for the light before ordering) as it is a T-Spirit model and my research suggests that this trim was fitted with ABS as standard in the MK1s. Also rang Toyota who advised me the OEM part number is 42450-52021 for my model based on reg. In terms of the eBay listing, I may now go for the model I posted posted (£27) which you have also fitted since you have had no issues with it - thanks for letting me know. I was considering an equivalent comline part for £10 more but I'll probably go for the cheaper on I posted now. Just out of interested how many miles have you done since you fitted this part? The part does not include a wire for the ABS sensor but I assume the existing wire will just be plugged into the new hub? In terms of the discs and pads, after much research I've determined which discs/pads I require for the front. It seems that it all depends on whether the model has discs or drums on the rear, not just where it was built. According to this I've determined I require the following part number :- Mintex MDK0213 - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202175137077 This set apparently includes 2x brand new discs and 2x sets of brake pads which should be all that's required to replace both at the front? - best price I could find is £41 for this set. In terms of the window, the fix the mechanic tried (regluing glass onto clips) did not acually work so I will now have to try stevecrvn's fix of drilling a hole in the plastic clip or otherwise someone on fb mentioned cable ties so may try that. Otherwise I'll have to go to the local scrapyard for a new glass from a 5dr yaris mk1 with the clips still glued on solid and get that fitted onto the regulator. Still disappointed that I'm even having this issue with a model assembled in Japan? Apparently the metal on the regulator is very flimsy on these. I need to fix this issue soon as it's annoying not be able to use the window in this heat. In terms of the glowplug error, both glowplugs in 'Bank A' (first 2 left to right) were replaced with brand new NGK ones, the other 2 Beru ones would not come out easily so we're left in. Touch wood though this seems to have done the trick. The eml has stayed off since. And regarding the diesel magic, I was advised to put it in when there was only a small amount of diesel in the tank (I.e 1/4 tank) and then run it for 15 miles or so and then refill when necessary. I bought a bottle to try it as it was only £7 from Halfords. Have driven around 15 miles since and it hasn't dint any harm tbh but will let the engine run down to one bar before refilling to get as much of it into the system. Will update the thread as to whether there has been any noticeable improvement to the fuel efficiency. Also just wondered which oil you use to service? Mines done 90k I'm thinking 5w30 fully synthetic maybe Mobil 1 or Castrol? Unless you could recommend a brand? Regards.
  17. Or what about this stuff Mobil 1™ ESP Formula 5W-30 ?
  18. Ok which brand don you buy and is this stuff fully synthetic? How much am I looking to pay for 5 litres? was thinking about buying castrol magnatec start stop 5w30 fully synthetic. Would this meet these specs?
  19. Hello fellas, just a quick update:- 1st issue:- Went to get the glow plugs replaced today from a local garage who agreed to fit them for £20. The error code I was getting was P0380 "Heater Circuit A". So i bought 4x NGK glow plugs from eBay as I wanted to replace the complete set all at the same time and took them to the mechanics. I asked them not to force any out and if they thought there was a chance they could snap whilst unscrewing to leave them in. They managed to get the first 2 (from left to right) out and replaced but they didn't think the 3rd and 4th one would come out without snapping so they just left them in as I requested and is prudent imo. They then cleared the engine management light but only time will tell whether it stays off or not. Will update the thread in a few days. If the eml comes back on with the same error code, I have no choice but to leave it or keep wiping it with an obd2 reader. From my perspective it was worth a try to do the proper thing and replace all 4 but clearly was not to be. I will take the mechanics word for it and not take the risk to replace the other 2 going forward because I don't have a spare £500 to get they drilled out should they snap. However, I'm glad they got the first 2 out as that is apparently Bay A which may match up with the error code? I now have 2 spare NGK glow plugs (part Y-542J) for the mk1 d4d if anyone needs one lol. 2nd issue:- was the driver side electric window which had come loose from the plastic clips and was not coming down with the regulator. Informed the mechanic about a fix which stevecrvn mentioned which was to drill a hole in the plastic clip and use an m6 bolt and 2 washers to secure the clips to the glass. He had a look but said that would not work without drilling through the glass? They tole me the actual regulator in this model is very flimsy and had bent over time and the glue which holds the clip onto the window had come loose. The tried to straighten out the twisted metal window mechanism and used some strong glue to try and reattach the clips to the glass. They told me to leave it for at least 24 hours which I will do and hopefully it will do the trick but they could provide no guarantees. They advise if the glue comes loose, to go to the local scrapyard and buy another front window from another mk1 5dr yaris which still has the clips properly glued on and replace my current window. Charged me £5 for this fix will update this thread in a few days whether it works or not. I also asked the mechanic to have a look around the car for any other potential issues which may need to be addressed including one of the rear wheel bearings which was highlighted when the front 2 were replaced just after i bought the car. They advised that the driver side rear wheel bearing needs to be replaced as there is a lot of play on it and it is very noisy. Said he would fit it for £40. Also advised that both front brake pads are very thin and advised to replace both front discs along with the pads. Said he would fit both front ones for £20. So now I need to source the parts ....... With this, I have a some more questions for the forum:- Question 1 - Do I need a rear wheel bearing kit with ABS sensors included with the hub assembly i.e. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m43.l1123/7?euid=9dbcdbc0e5234093a1e0838bbb6c32db&bu=43421548048&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F171248077419&sojTags=bu=bu or without the ABS sensor? Not sure if my model has ABS fitted or not? Would appreciate if anyone could link the correct part or let me know what I require? Question 2 - I plan on buying a front brake pad and disc kit (2 x front pads and 2 x front discs). Mine is a Japanese built model which apparently needs 235mm discs as opposed to 255mm discs? i.e. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m43.l1123/7?euid=3daaffb41c324756b5e7c7102177d7de&bu=43421548048&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F111838621706&sojTags=bu=bu Mintex ones seem to be readily available at an acceptable price. Is it a good make? also just wondered why the mechanic advised me to replace disc aswell as pads? is it even necessary for me to replace the discs or is this just an additional expense (pads on their own are much cheaper)? Would anyone be able to recommend a good brand which is close to factory fitted spec? Finally, the mechanic (old school mechanic) advised me to use a product called Diesel Magic by Comma to clean out my engine? Advised me to put a bottle in when there is only a small amount of diesel (i.e. a quarter tank or less) and drive it for around 15 miles afterwards before filling up again. Does anyone have experience with this product in the model and is it advisable? Regards.
  20. Ok Steve fantastic. Will try that out after buying some m6 nuts and bolts and finding the right size drill bit. Will probably need to apply the fix to both plastic clips. Will let u know how it goes.
  21. Thanks for that mate. Now i finally know what is actually under the front window glass and what the clip looks like and what i need to do. I have been putting this job off for the last couple of months because i didn't feel comfortable taking the door card off without knowing what i needed to do. I understand your fix with the m6 bolts which i could buy. My only question now is how do i get to the clips? Do i just need to remove the door card or do i need to take off the metal panel behind the door card? Do i need to unbolt the whole window out of the regulator and take it out of the door to do this fix?
  22. Any tips on how to do this mate? My front window does not come down wit the regulator but the electrics work son when i press down the regulator comes down but the window doesn't then the glass just drops down? Any ideas on a fix?
  23. Hello thanks for that - it seems from that link that 5w30 is recommended for my model (diesel/pre-dpf). Mine is a Japan built 2005 mk1 model without a dpf. The reason I ask is that i have been getting mixed advice as to whether to use 5w30 or 10w40 in it when i service it next. some people advise 10w40 for this model if the mileage is over 80k? Would like a definitive answer on this considering my milage is 89k (over 80k) from someone with first hand experience who has already ran this model to high mileages i.e. over 150k. Its been serviced regularly - 6 stamps from Toyota until 59k but not sure which oil they used, and 2 stamps from an independent garage where 10w40 fully synthetic was used. I intend to fully drain it when servicing obviously and using fully synthetic when i service it and use an original Toyota oil filter and sump washer which i have already purchased. Obviously I would like to maximise the longevity and feel efficiency whilst also providing maximum protection for the engine and I don't mind spending extra for fully synthetic oil the question is 10w40 or 5w30 and which brand to buy? I know the car requires 4.2 litres of oil and have been quoted £34 for Castrol Magnetec 5w30 fully synthetic from euro car parts but still not sure if its the right choice.
  24. I would also like to know the same thing. I have a d4d with 89k miles on it and it was last serviced in march 2018 with 10w40 semi synthetic oil.
  25. Ok mate noted. Found a genuine Toyota filter on eBay for around £12 which comes with a genuine Toyota replacement sump washer so may invest in that. I noticed you use 5w30 fully synthetic oil to service your car. But I was speaking to someone who has a d4d mk1 with 140k miles on it and he recommended that if the d4d is on High mileage 10w40 and low mileage -80k use 5w30. Not sure which is suitable now as my model is on 89k miles? Just wondered mate what mileage yours is on now and which brand of oil you use and also how many litres of oil would is required for a full d4d engine service? Regards.