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Everything posted by armoredfist2002

  1. You can't do anything with the standard ecu. It's aftermarket only, then you'd be looking at over £1500 for the ECU and a basic tune just to find out it's not the ECU. I can't help you any further, doubtful it's the ECU as i'm sure you'd be getting other problems along with it. I doubt you'll get many replies on here as the celica part of this forum isn't busy enough. Mod edit - link removed
  2. Have you checked none of the fuses have blown, they are down by the panel by your left leg when sitting in driver seat. Also some located under bonnet, right hand side
  3. I had tein coilovers on my 190, as I swapped to a GT about 2 months later I sold them on, the person who had them off me ended up getting them repaired a few months later as they were leaking, and this seems a common problem on the tein. Meister R are probably one of the best out there
  4. It may fit, but wont run right, as you say the manifold, injectors and throttle body are different so the ecu won't be tuned for these.
  5. A 2001 will be a generation 7, these were made between 1999-2006 and the last in line of the celica model. 2x engine variants a 140BHP version (badged as vvti) and a 190BHP version (badged as vvti-190, t-sport or GT) both are 1.8ltr engines. Don't know why yours has TR on it, I know there were a few packages available on the celica, but these didn't have any badges to say so. The earlier 140BHP version has a design flaw with the engine and can cause it to burn excessive amounts of oil, especially if the engines were not serviced regularly, not all suffer from this problem, but there is quite a high risk it will develop this problem over time, and if you don't keep up with topping up the oil then I shouldn't have to tell you what will happen to an engine with no oil in it. This problem was rectified on the later models (2003 onward)s but even then one or two have developed this fault. Other thing to look out for are leaking radiators on both models, it's hard to tell as they go on the bottom corners, and the under plastics catch the coolant, easiest way to tell is if the coolant in the reservoir goes down a lot, and sometimes you won't get hot air through the vents insidethe car as there is an air lock in the system. Radiators can be bought cheap off ebay for around £30-£50 brand new, and a few litres of coolant. 190 engines are pretty bullet proof, just need to check it hits lift when warmed up and condition of the lift bolts. All celicas suffer with spongey feeling brakes, so this is normal. The auxilary belts are prone to squealing, but are cheap to fix if oyu do it yourself as belts can be bought for £15-£20 I'm sure if I missed something kev will be along to fill in
  6. 140 and 190 engines are completely different, so I don't know where you heard that from. Nothing is interchangeable on them as far as I am aware, the only thing you may have heard is the 190 is similar to the 140 power wise up until you reach lift in a 190 engined car, but having never driven a 140 I can't compare. New panel filter with stock airbox is what most go for, I don't know if a 140 has a butterfly valve in the stock airbox or if it's just the 190, but this can be removed to increase noise levels a little. Short ram filters only increase noise and usually lose power, you could go for a long ram filter which is better but expensive. You won't gain much out of your engine without adding a supercharger or turbo, which will cost you in excess of £4000 just for the kit alone, then theres a new ECU, exhaust, brakes, suspension to think of and also 1-2 days on a dyno getting it tuned. Depending on your BHP output you may need uprated internals in the engine, so to do a proper job your looking at £10k easily. Check out se7en motorsports, he is the man to talk to about all your gen 7 needs, and the only one to trust with these cars.
  7. It depends on your insurance company, thing is maximum speed on UK roads is 70mph but tyres should be rated for the maximum speed the car can do, which to me is pointless as where on a UK road would you do 140mph. V & W rated tyres are past what the car can do. Insurance companies would only be fussy on ratings lower than the car maximum speed not higher, that's why some insurance companie are fussy about fitting winter tyres, your making your car safer to drive in the winter and less chance of damaging the car but theyre not bothered about this they are only bothered because winter tyres have a lower speed rating than summer tyres.
  8. As far as I was aware you couldn't buy Toyota coolant in concentrated form, and I was always told pink was used in the celica engine and not the red
  9. Sounds like you have oil burning issues, be careful and always check your oil level regularly, the more oil it starts using your going to want to be checking the oil every week, otherwise it's a new engine if you run out of oil Here is a link to a topic on another celica club, regarding oil burning issues with a 140 engine, definatley worth a read to keep you informed. You may need to register to view but it's free, but are limited to where you can post with a free account. http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/125889-boughtlooking-at-a-99-02-celica-140-gen7-read-this/ lots more members to answer more complicated questions if you need anything if the future, I am a member with the same username on there. It should be an easy job to change the radiator, the hardest part is bleeding, if your not sure then don't do it. I wouldn't even consider looking at the head gasket, these are very rare to go, it's usually the radiators, and for the price it would be my first call. Thing is due to the age of the car the radiator will need replacing at some point anyway. On the other club posted in the link above in the last 2-3 years a lot of members have had to change their rdiators.
  10. which model do you have, 140 or 190 engine. some 140 models suffered with oil problems, but you will smoke coming from the exhaust if this is the case. Sounds like your coolant loss is from the radiator which is a common problem, usually from the bottom corners and very hard to detect. Get that changed and some new coolant. Also sounds like from what you've said they have put leak repair stuff in the radiator which you should never do as it can cause blockages in narrower pathways inside the radiator and engine block. Radiator can be bought from ebay for about £35, most members on celica club are using these and all seem to like it considering the price you'll also need 2x 5litre bottles of pink coolant from your local toyota dealer for about £80, you must only use the pink, don't use blue or red. There should be a sticker under the bonnet on the bleeding process. Don't need to be very mechanically minded to change the radiator, just need a few hours and quite some time to bleed the system. As for the engine code you need a code reader to read the code to know where to start looking not just guessing which it seems the garage is just doing. If the exhaust is leaking somewhere then it can cause the o2 sensors in the exhaust to read wrong which can throw up a engine light, but it could also be a fault with sensor, these usually need changing between 60-100k miles as they are a serviceable item, but not many people know this.
  11. It may be a dealer part only. I haven't seen these around online anywhere
  12. Not as far as I am aware they don't. they are only listed to fit ZZT23 chassis codes which is gen 7 only.
  13. Front or back??? Front could be sunroof, but not all GT's had them Rear it's more than likely the boot seal has gone, you could do with removing the rear seats and checking for a puddle in the seat well, just pull very hard from the bottom of the front of the seat where it meets the floor carpet coming up the front. There are rubber grommets there you can remove to let any water out if you find any.
  14. Avensis discs and calipers are a srtaight swap, hopefully the following link works for you http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/153172-avensis-295mm-front-brake-upgrade/
  15. Discs and pads is all you need, no need to change anything else. If you want you could upgrade to braided brake lines to get rid of a little of the sponge feeling from the brake pedal that all gen 7's suffer with, or for a few quid more you can buy avensis calipers, then you have slightly bigger discs and better braking but non of the spongey feeling. Those are the standard t-sport wheels, most celica wheels were made by a company in Italy called fondmetal, not 100% sure if these are though, they are usually pretty soft metal and easily warp when youv'e gone over a few pot holes, are you planning on refurbing or looking for a spare set? As for tyres it's usually recommended to go with a decent branded tyre, as the rear camber on the celica wears cheaper tyres out unevenly, and you can get tread lift which sounds like a wheel bearing on the way out. Just don't get pirelli, mine wore out and very uneven after 5k miles on the rears.
  16. When you take the key out the light blinks, this lets you know the immobiliser is working, once the key is inserted into the ignition the light stops blinking. I'm not sure what could be causing the issue with the alarm
  17. ABS flashing is normal, especially if it's a earlier model. As it's a JDM import you will have trouble with the OBD2, i'm not sure if you need to modify one of the pins on the reader or the actual OBD2 port, but that's as far as my knowledge goes i'm afraid
  18. You may have a air lock in the heater matrix from the sounds you describe. The gen 7 celica is a bugger to bleed, and takes ages to get all the air out. And I would have said your radiator is on it's way out especially if the car is 10 years old or older. I haven't heard of a headgasket going on the celica,
  19. You will always fail a MOT with a decat exhaust as it won't meet the emissions needed to pass. That's unless you know someone who does dodgy MOT's, but then what else are they letting go on your car that might make it unsafe
  20. Should ideally be from a 190 as the 140 pipe is smaller than the 190, so you'll probably notice a loss in power. Don't see how the middle section would fit to the exhaust manifold unless it's been welded on. Pretty hard to find an exhaust for a 190 other than the dealers, as most systems sold are for a 140, unless you look for a seond hand one.
  21. If you over inflate your tyres your only running on the centre of the tyre not the whole width of the tyre, so less grip, faster tyre wear and problems with steering, if you underinflate your tyres you'll wear them out faster and use more fuel, they also heat up faster so more chance of damaging the tyre. As the contact patch on the road is so small it's a balancing act between tyre life, handling & fuel efficiency. 39PSI would be the rating if you were on parts of the autobahn in Germany all the time where you can travel over 100mph for a length of time, if your doing that speeds on UK roads then your just stupid, plus as far as I know over 100mph and it's an instant ban, so say goodbye to driving your celica for over 12 months. Your better off sticking to manufacturer recommendations they're there for a reason.
  22. For the price of the belts it desn't matter if you change them every two years, but a few millimeters longer or shorter won't make a difference as the pulley is self tensioning so will adjust itself accordingly. I bought my belt from ebay last time as there were a lot to choose from ranging from £12 to over £20, and you seemed to get a few sizes in between. Your choice but it will fit
  23. Contact AMS on celica-club.co.uk he is a breaker
  24. I think mine idles at around 1500 - 1800 when cold and slowly comes down to around 500 - 800 when warm, it's a while ago since I looked, you get used to it so I don't take much notice anymore. Could be a problem with thermostat, water pump, radiator or airlock in the system, on a warmer day it should be up to it's third bar within a max of 10 minutes, little longer in the winter. Leaking radiator in the bottom corners is a common problem, so when you lose coolant your letting air into the system which can get trapped. If your running toyota pink coolant look on the bottom corners of the radiator for dried pink crystals, and round the waterpump. Sometimes if the radiator has gone it's difficult to tell as the coolant collects on the plastic undertray and doesn't fall onto the ground for you to see easily. Keep an eye on your coolant level in the expansiob bottle over the next few days and weeks to see if it goes down any. If you have an airlock sometimes it collects in the heater matrix behind the dash and you sometimes hear a gurgling sound inside the cabin.
  25. I'm not sure, you could do with fitting a vacuum hose from the inlet manifold to the air injection pump an see how that goes, it's the cheapest option first, then see what happens. Next you would need to test the air injection pump, when the engine is cold after being left overnight, when you start it you should hear a hissing/suction noise from under the engine bay that dissapears after a minute or two, you can hear it go off, if it makes a noise then it's probably still working. Another idea is just check the previous owner never removed the air injection system off the car in the first place, it's on the front drivers side above radiator (you may need to remove the L-shape engine plastic), see below pic for what it looks like. The bottom pic with the silver square and black round thing on it, if you look at the top left on the black circle you can see a very small thin pipe sticking up, I'm sure the vacuum pipe goes from the inlet manifold to this little pipe on the air injection, without taking my engine covers off I can't be 100% sure. Anyway this is what I don't know what's on the K&N instructions to do with the other side of theis pipe. Try this first and see
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