Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


DeTomato last won the day on September 6 2018

DeTomato had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

31 Excellent

1 Follower

About DeTomato

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla 1.8 VVTL-i T-Sport
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

642 profile views
  1. Not sure if this suggestion of mine will help, but I found putting injector cleaner in a quarter tank of petrol and running until hot helped. But also found the pre-inlet plastic hose to the Airbox (not the engine side rubber hose) was loose due to foam seal deterioration. Replaced the foam so the intake was tight and it ran much smoother because air flow was delivered more consistently over the MAF without the leak.
  2. Is there an undercover tray? This shields any hear if the heater is on. Else pipes will be cooler normally. Is your car thermostat midway?
  3. That's normal if it's just below the mid bar. If you have diagnostic software you'll see with the radiator fan on it can get to 91 C before settling back to 89.
  4. I have a 2003 VVTLi. Disconnect the MAF with engine running and the engine will stop. However, it you have a loose air hose to the throttle body and filter, or there is a leak in any hose, the engine will continue to run, all be it poorly. Also check the pipes on the back right of the rocker cover connecting the pcv because this can allow air directly into the air pressure flowing behind the throttle body.
  5. We're there any codes to diagnose the problem? Sounds like a blocked injector... put a bottle of good injector cleaner in 1/2 tank of fuel and give it a run.
  6. My 2003 T Sport has only done 65,000 miles ☺
  7. Yikes. My 1.8 VVTL-I does 42 - 44 mpg on a long run, and about 35 mpg when I lift it. You perhaps need to tighten up hoses, clean air filter, clean the PCV etc. and also put in some injector cleaner in the tank - this stuff does actually work to unblock the fuel injectors on the VVTL-I to better regulate mixture and improve mpg longer term.
  8. Thanks. I fear it's so rusty that trying to stick it together with JB Weld (which is good stuff) will just make it fall apart even more. I just tried to look up the part but it doesn't appear. Looks like I will have to buy some metal and make one!
  9. So I had an MOT two weeks ago and today a rattle appeared when stationary. I thought the noise was at the front of the car until I looked underneath and could hear (and then see) the rusted rear tray or cover resting and rattling on top of the exhaust. I pinched the side of the tray to see how much it had moved and it was so rusty it crumbled in my fingers which is where there is an edge bit missing now (first photo). So question is, can I remove this tray or does it have to be replaced? Has anyone done this before? Do I really need it?
  10. Bushes worn? Rattle could be metal on metal like the anti roll bar. MOT should highlight this though. I did have a rattle once from a spanner being dropped to the side of the air filter box. Found it and was one spanner richer 😊
  11. Complain to Amazon and send it back. The battery was not fit for purpose if it was sealed and leaking due to no plug being in it. AND, acid draining from a battery in transit is a hazard which Amazon are liable for. If you contact Amazon they will usually take it back and pay for the postage in such cases.
  12. Loosen each brake nipple to de-pressurise and bleed the air from the system.
  13. You have to loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir to push or wind a piston back in else you'll over pressurise the brake system and cause errors, else the reservoir should be filled to the max level. The "incline" you mentoned appears to point to this.
  14. Check for air leaks on all the hoses and see the air filter fits tightly. Next try this: 1. Switch the key to position two 2. Switch off to position zero and wait 15 seconds 3. Switch the key to position two and start the car for a 20-30 min drive (to work or the like) - the throttle position should reset to normal when you come to rest a few times... if not persist driving (do not switch engine off) and it will eventually reset itself to normal after idling for 5 mins or so after about 30 mins. Otherwise: What did you clean the MAF sensor with? If you've used Carb cleaner it will likely have destroyed it's integrity. You'll need to replace it. Has the throttle stop screw been adjusted? If not, do not alter this... If you replaced the whole throttle body, chances are the TPS is faulty. Replace this with the correct part and see if it resolves the problem.
  15. I have an Exide 12V battery which has been excellent at starting over Winter and is sealed maintenance free. These are also relatively good value compared to other makes.