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TonyHSD

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TonyHSD last won the day on May 23

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  • First Name
    Tony
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris 1.8 Hybrid
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Hertfordshire
  • Interests
    General Automotive

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  1. I use this one and itโ€™s very good. https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00YVHGTBM?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_FJB6775CZDCSP0SKCTJD Donโ€™t know anything about these that you have shared. Perhaps the the more expensive one will be better.
  2. Yes, more often you change better for your health and for the blower fan motor and resistor block,, some of these can burn out because of blockage in that filter. ๐Ÿ‘
  3. Raised boot floor on 2.0 hatchback or 1.8 with spare tyre its a cool option. I get it, it reduces the overall boot capacity but when you put the seats down makes the car a small estate like super flat floor. Here what I mean: https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-reviews/2020-toyota-corolla-sx-hybrid-hatch-review This is so helpful to load longer items without been worrying they may snap because of the boot floor deviation. Some people prefer deeper boot and I can also understand that, but for me flat folded seats are very handy ๐Ÿ‘
  4. Yes, still will be charged. ๐Ÿ‘ I drive at night and sometimes I work from the car at different sites and I need heating during winter and I keep the car on for hours. My car still on its original battery from 2010 unless been replaced sometime before 2015 before I took ownership of the car but even so itโ€™s a good number of years.
  5. No need to be a blast, it doesnโ€™t matter what speed you are doing, only matters how long the car is ON. If your journeys are less than 20min each time itโ€™s likely to reduce battery capacity. The trick is to keep the car in ready mode as long as possible. For example if you drive someone to the shop, let them off and if you are staying in the car waiting, do not turn off, keep in ready mode while waiting. Turning off and on the car often within short period of time really kills the battery because there is an electric brake pump booster which pressurises and de pressurises the brake system each tmi,e the car been turned on or off and that is the largest 12v energy consumer.
  6. I think so ๐Ÿ‘ I have no access to Toyota service repair manual as I donโ€™t work on cars currently, only on my ones and have no idea if Toyota recommends any intervals for replacement of this tensioner. Itโ€™s not expensive anyway and it will be a good idea anyone with 150k + miles to check and replace too, for a peace of mind.
  7. If you set the car in acc mode ( double press start button) or single press start button to make the 12v socket life you can get the exact voltage readings . If you want to be even more precise then you need to measure battery with voltmeter while someone start the car. I did measured mine three days ago while in acc mode and it seems healthy at 12.48V.
  8. Just an update regarding the valve train noise. It was not from the oil or the use of E10 95 petrol or excessive idling during winter. The reason was slack in timing chain because of faulty (worn out) timing chain tensioner. Since I have changed and then cleaned the solenoid which actually was clean I never experienced any chain noise on my first cold starts. I have covered few hundred miles and had dozens of cold starts., so far so good. ๐Ÿ‘
  9. The safest bet is 1.8 hybrid or 1.6 petrol manual. 1.4d can have nasty surprises, it doesnโ€™t drive as smooth or its as quiet as other two options, and who wants a diesels these days , if you live in Scottish highlands perhaps you will be ok with it. ๐Ÿ‘Œ
  10. If you have this phone charger in place , when you unlock the car turn acc mode, double press start button without pressing brake pedal, check voltage if drops below 12v best to recharge your battery with smart charger like ctek5 or the likes ๐Ÿ‘
  11. Second gear synchro worn out. +1 ๐Ÿ‘
  12. Hi, you can buy one of these or something similar to have constant info about your battery voltage. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B093V384KK?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_FHXQDK869R16T6BZ8KBA
  13. Here is my 2 cents how to fix smelling AC. Buy this spray https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084R1XD3T?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_4WPDRSPEXYWJE3SVEGYY Buy new cabin filter. Remove old cabin filter and clean the area around from debris and dust, all needs to be dry and clean. Open bonnet and clean all plastic gutter around the wipers particularly where the air suck vent is, look through and see if there are any leafโ€™s, debris or mud., if yes you have to clean it. Turn the car ON and switch the AC OFF. Set air flow towards middle and feet. Adjust temperature to max heat and air intake from outside. Fan speed 2. Crack open all windows just an inch, exit the car and close all doors. Go to the front and spray few short blasts dettol antibacterial aerosol into the air intake vent, repeat few times. You need to leave the car ON for at least 30min. After that while the car is still ON and hvac operating open drivers door and change the air flow few times towards windshield, feet, middle dash, turn ON AC and leave it on for 5min, then turn off AC and let the system works for another 5min on heat only and go through air blow settings again. After the procedure is completed, set the hvac settings as per your preference, turn off the car and leave all doors open for 5-10 min to let the heat escape and refresh the cabin. Instal the new pollen filter. Job done. All bacteria and fungi were killed and you will have no smelling ac anymore. ๐Ÿ‘
  14. Most likely fungi formed on the ac core or along drainage system, filter should be changed more often , once a year or 10K miles
  15. Ride quality perhaps as the estate has a slightly longer wheelbase.
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