TonyHSD

Structural, perhaps body welding, micro cracks or something similar that doesn’t move a lot to be seen but twist when under loads and create that sounds. Many cars are like that, some on the front , some on the rear, and that’s why more and more manufacturers are talking about better structural rigidity on newer models when introducing them to the public. This may be a problem if it’s bad enough to be a weak point and in case if car is involved in accident.

And UK spec Rav where is it made?

This is normal operation of the brakes on any automatic car, where there is a friction there is a noise too. It’s not because of anything wrong with them, braking hard will not help to clean the discs if you don’t drive the car regularly, pads especially before bed in process is complete are in constant contact with discs , then after you have bedded in correctly the tolerance between pads and discs are so small that driving a car once a week for a 20 miles is enough to keep them clean. If you get rusty discs that is almost certainly mean you have sliding pins rusted too so taking everything apart , cleaning and lubricating is the most. If you drive the car once in a while do not wash it very often, car washes are biggest enemy to car brakes. At the end you are talking about new cars here , don’t worry just drive and enjoy them, even you drive once a week you will be good for a year or two before you really need to look for a brake service or issue. 🤙 Regards

That was super interesting, the RAV4 suppliers sounds better and more familiar to me, the Corolla is international product where Rav is Japanese correct?

Hi, the universal joint Might be the case , but sometimes is the gear set where electric motor is and or the rake adjustment mechanics. Lubrications may help but you need to dismantle and investigate. It’s not so difficult once you take of the steering wheel, you don’t need actually to remove the whole column or the drive shafts. I have that problem with many Toyotas and with some started as early as 14k miles and few months old, my current car has same rattling while driving over rough terrain and when you grab the steering wheel 12 and 6 o’clock and shake it up and down has excessive play, it’s like that since was 4 years old and 40k miles , now is 115k and stays the same, no worse no better, just don’t have the time to dismantle and lubricate it. I did tested the shafts but they are rock solid and well lubricated, plus their bolts are super tight, other two options left to investigate but I can’t afford to stop driving the car and play with it, maybe one day while off work.

Highly recommended to use Only Toyota own transmission oil! You can use any other that same spec but make sure is same and because you can’t really be sure it is use only the genuine Toyota oil.

Hi, transmission wise as you think maybe is the issue, clutch etc. Engine mounts to check you need someone to help., stab the throttle while you watching them moving, best to use a torch even in day light, because sometimes to find a faulty mount is very tricky. Excessive play in exhaust system may also cause similar troubles so good to check that too if you haven’t already. Good luck

Are u 100% sure will fail the license application? You can always stand against it and get Toyota involved too. If factory tinted this is a family car not a boy racer so should be within the limits. Councils sometimes are applying non sense rules that can be changed, not easy though but not impossible. I personally wouldn’t cancel my order for that reason and will go against them, if I loose at the end will just pill of the foil and past the license checks. I be see so many tinted phv cars.

Cool, I keep my keys in Pepsi can and I think it works great too. Thanks for sharing.

Yeap, most of them are PHV, I have seen many even a hatchback one as taxi and all estates with license stickers, I don’t personally think the new Corolla will replace the Prius but will take a large percentage of the sales, Toyota wins anyway, the question is not what make when looking for a hybrid but what model. Toyota / Lexus still remains the best hybrids.

They might have been mixed again two type of transmission here, MMT & CVT. Cvt has a torque converter not a clutch plate , Toyota cvt’s are known to be on the good side as far as good cvt can be. They are not very popular in UK, we do like and drive more hybrids here when choosing an automatic car for a number of reasons. There was a big recall on them in US recently, info can be found online. I personally wouldn’t touch any cvt or mmt transmission from any car manufacturers, they are simply not great to drive and reliability is a questionable, I will buy a manual or hybrid if automatic transmission needed. Regards

Oil should be changed every 12 months even the car has only traveled 100 miles, if you don’t now you may don’t next year too and like that we have a nice looking car with neglected engine and high oil consumption. This is the case with many used cars especially the low miles one, it’s not about worry to much it’s about taking care of your car. Brake fluid if car not driven will not get moisture, unless it’s a leak in the system, but you are right , check and lubrications is the most and should be done every two years, same apply for air con and anything else that is in the book. If you may skip any of this due to a lack of use or very little use , never skip engine oil and filter, this is most important it’s not expensive or difficult and it’s simply no worth it skipping it.

Guys you can look at EBC BRAKES, this are UK made and as good or even better than the big brand names TMD.

Can you make some record and then post it here, may give us more clue.

Hi, manufacturer recommend 10k miles or 12 months service intervals, I think best for the car and for your record is to get the oil and oil filter change and air and pollen filters checked, get a new MOT and you are ready for another 12 months of joy and pride, or just sell it to someone who is going to use it regularly. Cars love to be used daily. Regards