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TonyHSD

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Everything posted by TonyHSD

  1. Using quality engine flush is good for any engine that has done 40k miles or more, or if the car is older than 3 years. The chemical content itโ€™s made to be safe for seals, gaskets and all other engine parts. Engine flush will not accelerate oil leaks or stop them and will not cause any harm, it only helps to keep engine internals clean. If the car is old and engine oil is very dirty and the car been neglected then it is advisable to do few quick oil changes which will act as flush but less aggressive and then use engine flush. The reason is that oil passages and galleys are very small and if a larger chunk of deposits breaks off and start flowing through may get stuck and starve the engine for oil, this is perhaps very rare occurrence and more like a myth. There are also metal mesh screens along the oil system that also may get blocked but that can happen even with the oil circulating on. Engine flush really helps clean the engine. Even Toyota sells and recommends to use with oil change. My choice here is stp red bottle, itโ€™s cheapest and one of the best, probably been using it more than 10 times on my current Auris and a lot more on many different cars, some very dirty ones. https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/stp-engine-flush-450ml-for-petrol-and-diesel-vehicles-549771811 easiest way to compare engine flush is to descaling a coffee machine, you just remove the scale and make it easier for the machine to work longer. ๐Ÿ‘Œ
  2. I think pumps at gas stations are way off and more likely to be not calibrated correctly. The other thing is that when you drive the car to get there tyre will warm up and pressure will change. Buying a quality digital gauge is best option. This should be very good, I am using similar to this but but made a couple of years ago, works very well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275324961126?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sWtMGloZQFi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Price is also great at the moment. ๐Ÿ‘
  3. I will agree with both sides about the oil and in some cases an earlier change will be beneficial although for uk climate and if the car been use as normal 10k miles or 12 months intervals are perfectly fine. For the time engine been ON also makes sense, I personally in winter keep car in ready mode for hours 2-6 hrs per night. During this period within the same mileage intervals 10k (happens usually in 2-3 months) I do get more oil consumption and the oil gets darker. The most obviously signs of oil deteriorating are yellow-brown colour coding on bare metal parts inside the engine, can also be seen on dipstick when checking oil level. Engine flush and oil change on time are crucial for the longevity of the engine. Here I can show my vvt solenoid just taken out of the engine before cleaning. This is internal part with constant oil circulation through it, can give is a glimpse of other internal parts condition and accumulation of sludge and carbon buildup. Also if you can notice the rubber seal condition, itโ€™s round and in perfect shape., this will show overall condition of gaskets and seals on the whole engine., and this is an old car with many miles and 10k oil intervals since 2018 previously 12 months with average use of 4k miles per year for the first 8 years ๐Ÿ‘
  4. You are welcome. I can suggest if you do experiments with oil additives you may want to try in the old oil first and do one thing at a time and drive at least 200-300 miles between any additional work to allow some time for the additives to work to see if there are any effects. Valve train noise can be as a result of thinner than what needs to be for the engine oil or thicker one. If the oil is thinner or has lost some of its viscosity you can use oil friction modifier Like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255126856233?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pipn4v9hRni&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY If the oil is thicker or itโ€™s wrong grade and viscosity or if the hydraulic lifters are stuck which happens on cars with low mileage and very easily driven then the correct oil additive to use is this one : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262879024616?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=734sWtTNTq2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY You can perhaps try this one first, follow instructions and add to the oil , drive the car for 200 miles and also it will be a good idea to take the car for a motorway drive at higher rpm,3000 for 15-20min continuous run. If it doesnโ€™t fix the issue or if the noise become even worse then you can add the friction modifier and if it helps then means the oil inside is too thin for your engine. If no any positive effects after these tries best to use engine flush stp red bottle is very good stuff and change the oil and filter to the specs by the manufacturer. Drive the car more and it may fix itself. ๐Ÿ‘
  5. Engine flush , new oil 0w20 and the rest of the service advice above its a good idea. After all done and if you still have some noise you can try various engine oil additive to help reduce the valve train noises. Wynns has a wide selection and their stuff is one of the best. ๐Ÿ‘
  6. These plastics covers are part of the tail lights. To remove them you have to remove the lights themselves, clean properly and replace seals. Perhaps once every 5-8 years. You are right about those that cause issues and on previous generation Auris debris and dirt accumulated on that places cause water leaks in boot via lights seals. The rain water drains through the lights under these plastic covers and goes out for those circle openings below them. ๐Ÿ‘
  7. Slime works but you need to have air compressor and you may need to top up a couple of time before the slime works and seal the puncture. Itโ€™s a temporary fixture, it lasted for me around 4 months on a electric scooter. For the cars there are foam sprays that also works and again air compressor is must have in the boot. Puncture repair strips are the best for fixing nail or screws penetration and can last for the lifetime of the tyre if fitted correctly. Best of all obviously is a set of spare tyre and jack. Space saver tyres best to be fitted only on non driving axles, in Auris is the rear. If fitted to the front can cause excessive heat and wear to the differential gears and bearings. ๐Ÿ‘
  8. Hi, It has been explained well already ๐Ÿ‘ for the ev mode via ev mode button. It is useful indeed when you are moving the car in parking spot, on your driveway without needing to start the engine. However the car to accept ev mode command and remain in this mode you have to turn off your hvac fan and of course to have 50+% soc hybrid battery. There are also some other times when ev mode may become unavailable, for example after a long downhill and you have hybrid battery fully charged, press ev mode button and you will hear a sound warning and message on dashboard โ€œhybrid mode not available currently โ€œ without other explanation. When battery is low the car will tell you that the battery is low and ev mode is not available or when you exceed the maximum speed that the car can not enter ev mode pressing this button. On different Toyota hybrid I use ev mode for my last half mile home but in some cases the car doesnโ€™t let me because my hv battery is almost always full when arriving at home because I live at bottom of long hill. Other time when I use ev mode is in the morning when checking and topping up tyre pressure, I takes me usually 10 min for all 4 corners. Start the car, press ev mode button and immediately press fan off button, the car remains silent and battery looses very little charge.
  9. I know, and it wonโ€™t bother most owners and Toyota are making a huge savings on that. The things is that every little cut in terms of refinement and insulation when you add them together at the end may affect a bit the overall comfort and driving experience.
  10. I donโ€™t think so but when you open the bonnet and you have no cover the car looks unfinished and a class below, perhaps even Yaris has this cover.
  11. Good job. I will mention that when my time comes to put an order for a new Corolla, this cover makes the car looks better. Taking into account I open the bonnet twice a week and itโ€™s the most used door after drivers one having a cover will please me well ๐Ÿ‘Œ
  12. Hi Bob, I personally use a Carista and have subscribed to their own app. They give almost dealer like option to scan, delete faults plus do some additional settings like auto lights , locking, ac automation etc. Here I have some example how it works. One of the latest reply has pictures attached with options that you can choose and adjust. ๐Ÿ‘
  13. Hi, itโ€™s can be both but I am 99% for been replaced. You can look outside the windows bottom right corner there are writings with manufacturer date and make of the glasses, check if all are the same and the one who does not match are the one that been replaced. Have you got any extra wind and engine noise intrusion inside the cabin at speeds over 30mph?
  14. Good ๐Ÿ‘ Carista has the best app but you know you have to pay subscription. Other apps are Dr. Hybrid and Hybrid assistant on android, iOS just have a look at the store. ๐Ÿ‘Œ
  15. Parking brake wonโ€™t get stuck, these things are from the past. You can use your handbrake (parking brake auto or not) as much as you like. Back in the days when parking brakes were causing issues was because of the cables get rusty or freeze, now days inner cable is coated in special plastic that does not require lub and can cope with freezing temperatures and moisture. If the brake pads leave a mark this will be polished as soon as you start driving the car. ๐Ÿ‘Œ
  16. Tyres does effect noise level indeed especially those like Corolla has 18โ€ low profile with Falken tyres., and perhaps pan roof adds to the issue too. ๐Ÿ‘
  17. Or perhaps you can buy Carista obd 2 adapter and diy. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YVHGTBM?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_N52XZAK618NTJEYFC69J
  18. ICE only cars when going downhill and you hold back accelerator the engine spins but does not draws fuel, injectors time is 0s. Same as the hybrid. The reason why is uneconomical to drive Toyota hybrids in B mode is because when used in the beginning the B mode does not waste energy but regenerate energy similar to full evs. However the hybrid batteries are small and gets topped up full very quickly ( quicker in B mode) and soon after the battery is full the ice will spin at higher rpm 2000rpm even more to discharge the battery to more appropriate level. Here is where you are using petrol unnecessary and this event cause lower fuel consumption at the end not the free roll downhill with B mode engaged. ๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿ‘
  19. I can see that and I was going through hell to find what was causing this issues on my car too. Brake job completed and the problems disappeared afterwards. I do get sometimes some rough road noise and vibrations that feel very similar but they quickly goes away when I drive past those roads.
  20. Stuck pistons and slider pins on callipers usually cause exactly that problems that you have experienced. Other than that can be engine/ transmission mounts, wheels or tyres, inner cv joints , bad wheel alignment, worn out wheel bearings. Anything else likely to be from the road surface.
  21. โ€œ-I have no idea if a slightly stuck caliper can create these kind of vibrations and wobble, but this needs to be fixed regardless so I have bought a new caliper and an entirely new set of brake parts as I am not going to want to battle with a worn caliper. Question is whether or not I'll be able to swap it myself or if I should let the professionals handle this ๐Ÿ™‚ (The caliper swap is the part I'm unsure of, replacing discs and pads I've done multiple times before)โ€ There are couple of main reasons that can set the car into โ€œvibration modeโ€ and sometimes itโ€™s ultra difficult or too expensive to find out. The issue with brake callipers is one of them and this is difficult to find since itโ€™s not so simple to trace and does not make sense at first glance. If your car never had brake service now itโ€™s time to be done. You will need to do that on all 4 corners, not only on the rear right as mentioned. No need to replace callipers unless can not be saved. You will need to take callipers of the brackets , remove pads, clean with wire brush and brake cleaner , you will need to get pistons to poke out a bit, lift the rubber protector boot and look inside, if there is rust or any sign of corrosion you have to remove from calliper and clean to bare metal with abrasive cloth , replace rubber seals if necessary and change brake fluid in the system. You need to make sure that pistons returns when depressed the brake pedal. Also a good idea to take brake disc off the hubs, clean hubs and discs mounting surfaces from any rust or grease and dry fit them bare metal to metal, no lubricant should be used at all. Do the same with the brake pads , clean them to look like new and dry fit in place. Slider pins need to be taken out , cleaned to shiny metal again with abrasive cloth , apply silicone grease on them and install them on the callipers. Make sure they move freely and stay in place , if any air is locked inside their boots, squeezing the boots to let air escape and leave inside only grease is important step. โš ๏ธ Change brake fluid and bleed the air out old fashioned way with a help of fiend to pump and hold the brake pedal. After successfully completing the whole job you have to take it easy first 100 miles driving and let the pads bed in again properly. I am positive that you will have no issues anymore and you will discover much better braking performance on your car. ๐Ÿ‘ I also had similar issues in the past, once I done all that above I am vibrations free, anything that eventually comes up is from the road surfaces which are obviously not in great shape these days. The car is spot on. ๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿ
  22. Hi Bob and welcome. Oem Toyota brake pads will be a good choice. They have different suppliers like Bosch, TRW, Textar, or Japanese brands too. If you prefer to go aftermarket those same names should be on your list too. I personally use Blueprint for my discs, they are high quality and well made. For brake pads I use EBC Ultimax , again a high quality pads made in England, they have very nice biting feel and makes the brakes sharp and grippy. Good discs should have anti corrosion coating too. When fitting make sure to clean the hubs surfaces well with soft wire brush and do not use any grease anywhere except silicone grease on the slider pins on the callipers. EBay is a good place to look, if you are buying genuine Toyota only buy from well known dealers or Toyota office store.
  23. You are right , the bonnet is made from aluminium as per other members experience. ๐Ÿ‘
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