TonyHSD

Same. There are high mileage examples from USA , rav4 which is basically the same engine just slightly bigger and no issues at all. 👍

He is also trading under the name “ parts4hybridd” on eBay. Same person , same risk of getting fake parts. Original Toyota parts only bought from an official dealers who sell new cars and have service garages too.

I knew and warned few members about this man. I have been following his trade of fake Toyota parts on eBay, he started with fake plugs bought from Aliexpress and offered to the uk public at much lower price. Since his grey business was discovered by many he has changed his name and closed his website, reopen new ones and continue. He may offer some real parts too, but there is no guarantee plus his customer service is horribly as per the reviews online. I don’t know why people will prefer to buy a genuine parts from a non genuine seller? Now he sells his parts at even greater prices than dealers on eBay and if you visit local garage. There is absolutely no point of even looking at his stock at all. Here how a genus paper box of genuine Toyota plugs look.

Hi, yes it will work on all Toyota hybrids. This is the procedure prior to oil change. If the engine is cold.

Yes, A new updated GR Yaris is rumoured to come out soon, with extra bhp and new 8 speed auto transmission. If this will be available in UK, not entirely sure.

If you buy from eBay buy from these guys, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254376840140?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vV-jwrewS2G&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I bought 3 times from them, they are official Toyota dealer, sent fast and free. The higher revs over 1500rpm aren’t usual for any petrol engine on standard cars. There is something going on, throttle body, map sensor, plugs, air filter, etc , something it’s not right.

Just try and see which side the pistons turn , in hybrids both L and R turn clockwise, to the right and go you try to return they stop.

If you are going to claim on warranty best to book a check into a dealer. If try to fix yourself then they may refuse to fix it under warranty conditions. The cable may snap if any rust as noted earlier form or lack of lubrication on the moving parts, lack of use. I open my bonnet twice a week minimum, now over 8 years.

What is this G6 module behind the rear bumper left corner ? If this is can bus thieves will be pleasantly surprised to see it’s location 🫢

You maybe right. I have tried premium fuel before the new standard and did not found significant improvement in performance, noise or efficiency, however with e5 vs e10 there is real difference, that’s why I put in on the ethanol content. Either way, I like the car how drives on e5 from Tesco more than any others 95 e10, shell, bp, esso. Another interesting thing, before e10 standard I was keeping most of the times a bottle of petrol additive in the boot and when fill up poor quality fuel only 95 but from different garages and noted engine lack of power, I was adding some into the tank and noticed immediately improvement, with new e10 95 when I add additives there is no difference, the noise is still there and engine is sluggish. I have tried also this esso 97 e0 down here and it’s very similar to the Tesco I generally use, but price is 15p more.

Some main dealers are fully stop to visit either for a service or buying a car new or used. Just motor trade has always been a trade that employs cowboys since day 1 and never changed, perhaps never will.

The difference between engine sounds and performance is not related to octane numbers but ethanol quantity and perhaps other additives inside imo. Never experienced any noise like that before September 2021 and the new E10 standard with any regular 95 E5 or E0 , or whatever was the standard before that date. Since then the car simply drives unpleasant to say, like underpowered small car. Now I will run the tank down to around 10ltrs again and fill up with E5, I am positive will be a day and night difference especially in the engine noise and pull.

Hi, no need to worry about it, there is nothings to break inside these transmissions and this is typical way how they work. First shift after start up fr9m P to R or D can come with a clunk and shock, nothing unusual.

So I managed to filled up 33.5 ltrs of bp 95 e10 and guess, the car drives totally different. In town not a huge difference but going faster, joining motorway or uphill, engine is much louder and less powerful, mpg got hit immediately too, 57mpg against 60mpg on Tesco e5 99 previously. More I drive on e10 more I dislike the car , but it is good from time to time to change so I can appreciate more the lesser amount of ethanol in the premium petrol.

Carista software wise they are pushing boundaries by the day. They do periodic updates to add extras and more options. On each car different , but I believe if anyone buy their adapter or software subscription and not happy there is some 14 days cooling off period, but not 100% sure, best to double check if you are an interested party. 👍 I buy subscription for a year usually cost £47 then after year pass the car develop fault again and I have no choices but to purchase another year, still cheaper than dealer diagnostics.

On the video there are the typical noises from regenerative braking, brake booster pump but there is also another slightly strange clunky noise followed by the booster pump. If that’s something to be further researching on, or it’s just from pressing the brake pedal., but sounds to me like abs pump in action which shocks not be presented. When abs or stability control got activated then after the booster pump is pressuring again. Best to try again and look at the dashboard for any yellow warning lights. Or try another Yaris at the dealer to compare.

Hi, for these cars service kit are not £60, even only the oil is more. The air and cabin filters blueprints are better than oem Toyota imo. The carbon one I personally don’t think add much of a protection or reducing the bad odours much more to worth the upgrade. More important is to do regular cabin filter changes. It’s up to you what brands you like, some parts better be original Toyota like transmission fluid, coolant, spark plugs etc, but others like engine oil, filters, brakes, wipers not necessary , even some quality afternoon can be between than the oem.

Hi, this is an easy job. Best practices below. Air filter every 20-30 k miles or two years. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235192949719?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yi1ojZncSxy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Cabin filter every year or 10k miles, together with oil and oil filter change. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334316565679?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yi1ojZncSxy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY There are many YouTube videos how to. Good luck

My one is hybrid and they are likely to be different. I can’t find a link now but if I remember correctly they were 18mm inner diameter. Best to buy from the dealer as yours might be different and buy fluid from them, ask the for quantity, in mine only 3 litres can be drained., although full capacity is 4.2.

You are probably right about the seals. 👍

Only buy original Toyota transmission fluid. Make sure you don’t overfill and don’t over tight the drain plugs, 40Nm both and best to replace washers. These plugs are difficult to break them open , use proper tools with long breaker bar.

Hi, Have you lubricated the hinges? Use thin machine oil instead or lithium grease spray . 👍

Absolutely. People are insanely stupid these days and use no brain when driving. Then the bad has happened and everyone is crying. Every accident with damage to cars and casualties could have been prevented or those could have been reduced to minimum if the speed was lower., more sensible. No sense, no responsibility, no sober thinking. Majority of drivers are either on drugs or alcohol, or mixture of both, add the pressure they put themselves under and the results are obvious. If statistics mark lower accidents in comparison to previous years is only become of the latest safety tech built into the cars, not because of the drivers. Actually the drivers ability to drive sensibly and safe are lowest ever. No offence but here there are typical and common mistakes many English drivers does, it’s kind of like character of the average uk driver, and not only uk but let’s say today’s drivers around the world. 1. Speeding 2. Late braking 2.5 Hard acceleration 3. Tailgating, no distance at all 4. Cutting off after overtake 4.5. Holding the middle lane. 5. Driving with the same speed or even faster when weather is bad, rain, fog, ice and snow 6. Driving with different tyres 7. Keep engines idle for no reason at all and especially at school gates when waiting for their children 8. Not checking under bonnet fluids and tyre pressure regularly 9. Driving with full beams or late change 10. Reversing at high speed There are probably more , but these are most common and something that I am dealing with on daily basis.

Auris hybrid from 2010 here with Ni-Mh technology. The car has covered excess of 252000 miles , it’s 13 years old and both 12v and hybrid batteries are the original ones. The car is in daily use as business vehicles and cover between 200-300 miles a day since 2018, almost every day. Efficiency is unchanged, 60mpg summer and 50mpg winter. There are maintenance procedure on the hybrid battery, in your case check and replace battery cooling fan filter , keep the car interior clean and dry, use AC during summer or if you prefer all year around, use heating during winter. Service at Toyota dealer and you will get another 10k miles or another 12 months of relax warranty on the car and the hybrid battery.

Pressure from inside can easily break it. Most if not all cars with frameless side windows, the windows goes automatically down half inch when closing the doors, just to prevent that from happening. https://twitter.com/ZacksJerryRig/status/1039934465462611968?lang=en