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Byzii last won the day on August 8 2018

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    Avensis T25 Estate 1CD-FTV
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  1. Byzii

    D4D egr

    Toyota doesn't show any codes when in limp mode. At least my T250 never showed any codes. I had a limp mode due to my EGR. The main symptom was that the car would drive fine before coolant reached operating temperature. As soon as op temp was reached the EGR opened, got stuck and hello limp mode.
  2. They're very good cars while they last. There are no issues yet buying a diesel while it's new, perfectly if under warranty. Low mileage will also do. But once you cross the mileage at which you have to replace things, diesels are ridiculously expensive. And some of that stuff is simply unavoidable. The same replacement items are a lot cheaper on petrols. Diesels are simply very expensive to maintain for a long time and it only pays off economically if the person driving it is doing very high yearly mileage.
  3. The only answer when a question about buying a diesel pops up: don't. Just don't. Injectors and Clutch + DMF are things that will cost you 1k+ each. No such issues on petrols. Things like driveshafts like to get damaged on diesels and of course they're much more expensive and difficult to replace than on petrols. Not to mention regular cleaning of EGR valve. If it decides to crap out, which is not uncommon, it also costs a fortune. Then you'll be losing power because while EGR can be cleaned, intake manifold is a lot more expensive to clean and intake valves even more so. So everything craps up with soot. Especially if used on short journeys while striving for maximum mpg (so lugging around in 5th gear when doing 30mph).
  4. This is a common problem with the Avensis. You really should do a brake check-up once a year on Avensis cars. My mechanic simply dismounts everything, cleans it up, removes any rust, checks the sliding pins and lubricates them. It's not a guarantee that everything will be in tip top shape but there are some early signs so you decrease chances of getting stuck on the side of the road.
  5. It all comes down to the cost. You have a long commute so those miles will rack up quickly, so it's not easy to suggest looking at petrol instead. If that mileage of 117k is real (doubt it, it's so easy to change it) then I guess it'll live for a couple of years before some major stuff happens. These engines had headgasket issues. Toyota says that only a very small percentage of them were affected but all dealer techs I've talked to said that every 2nd engine they sold came back for warranty work or already blown. Also everything on diesel is much more expensive. God forbid your injectors **** the bed, that's 1000+ in parts alone. Drive shafts like to break in these due to the torque and changing them is not a fun job. DMF always has to get changed when doing clutch work, easily 1500+. And if it's a manual then those gearboxes weren't the best. Multiple concerns about various bearings dying, vibrations at acceleration further wearing it down and such. But other than that they're great, i.e., they're great while they run. But take into account the cost of repairs and adjust it to how much you're going to save on fuel costs. It certainly doesn't balance out in my case.
  6. Sorry guys, not in UK, but even now in my country if you ask anybody what used car to get, 9 out of 10 times they'll say to get a diesel. I guess it's due to old diesels being high mileage and so everyone thinks a diesel will go forever. They are made to a higher standard but it doesn't look like petrols are dying after getting over 100k. Unfortunately a hybrid is not an option, way too pricey, which is why I'm looking at the same T25 but a petrol version.
  7. Hey guys, I've got myself in a bit of a pickle here. Have had my 1CD T25 estate for 2 years but now it looks like I will have to scrap it. So far it looks like I bought into the hype at the time. Everyone said to go diesel, especially the 1CD, it's cheap and bulletproof. Now it looks like everything, and I mean everything is more expensive on a diesel vs a petrol car. I need new injectors, that's 250€ a pop + astronomical labor. Petrol doesn't have such issues. I need a new drive shaft on the right side (the long one, on a LHD car), which costs like 200€ secondhand without guarantees. Petrol drive shafts don't break as often and are cheaper. Clutch needs replacing, which also means that DMF needs replacing. Parts + labor are over 1500€! Petrol doesn't even need the flywheel replaced. Nobody even sells them, they just last! Okay, it's a bit of a rant, but am I wrong thinking that petrols are just way, way cheaper to maintain? It looks like when you have to repair a diesel car, you have to go broke or just scrap it. Everything in a diesel has to be bigger and stronger, which makes everything much more expensive. I'm looking at scrapping this one (value of it is like 2500-3000€) and getting a T25 petrol. But even looking at other makes or models, every part you can think of is cheaper on petrol. What's your thoughts guys? I understand that for those driving 20k miles per year cost savings on fuel are big, but for someone driving 10k a year, this unreliability is killing me.
  8. Magnus, You can always secure the new plastic trays with screws and zip ties which should hold it far better than the damn clips (don't know what Toyota were thinking). Without the trays there's always an increased risk of having a bad time, from the water ingress in engine bay to the arguably most important part — oil pan — being without protection. I know my oil pan is rusted to hell and I'll be replacing it at next oil change since a good knock from a rock could potentially lead to some pain.
  9. Hey Phil, I think bigey was talking about the plastic covers that are under the car and are meant to protect the oil pan and to keep water out of the engine bay. Bigey, I think you can remove the understrays (I know how poorly they're fitted, mine are holding on screws and a few cleverly-placed zip-ties) but you should also keep in mind that your oil pan won't be protected and there might be some water ingress in the engine bay so if you like to keep it looking clean and tidy, this isn't the way to achieve it. I don't know about safety of this though, as in - how safe is it to let water enter the engine bay. Generally speaking they're meant to be quite water-proof but things like alternator could get damaged if you happen to drive through a particularly large puddle. Also I think you'll notice road noise/wind noise differences since the plastic is designed in a way to guide the winds in a particular way.
  10. Hey, It's quite hard to understand what noise you're talking about, things like whooshing and roaring simply don't mix in my head so if you could find a similar noise on YouTube or even record it that would aid in faster diagnosis.
  11. Popping out of gear can be due to low or dirty tranny fluid but it can also be due to worn tranny or engine mounts, bad linkage or maybe synchronizers are boned. If you intend to keep the car then changing the fluid shouldn't be too expensive and is something to be done always on new purchase, and you could see if it solves the issue. If you bought privately then I don't know what would be your chances of getting anything back, it's usually "well you saw what you bought so good luck".
  12. Seeing as it was only 300 quid I assume it was only the clutch itself? Sure, clutches are cheap, it's the labour that is more expensive, not to mention the flywheel which should also be replaced.
  13. Weren't there two different versions though? One was 1CD-FTV on T25 Avensis, or CDT250, and the other was the one fitted on T22 Avensis, so CDT220 probably (or was it CDT150?). There have also been documented talks about turbo units being slightly different for this same engine in different models, although again it's not quite clear where people got those engines.
  14. With such small mileage per year (which I assume is mostly short trips?) do you really need/want a diesel? I'd recommend anyone to steer clear of any diesel engines, ever, and will continue to do so unless something changes my mind, which is very unlikely. Even older diesels have problems just due to the nature of their design but the newer ones with all the emissions stuff piled up really doesn't do any favors. Any potential savings from fuel add up quickly when all the emissions stuff starts having problems. Nowadays petrols can get very good fuel economy and with good care are able to travel 200k+ miles without issues. Next to zero extra expensive emissions stuff, no expensive injector issues, no driveshaft issues, etc. I'd just recommend to really think about getting a newer diesel when modern petrols get almost the same mileage, cost less overall in terms of ownership, have less problems (BMW engine and tranny, yikes!) and even the added benefit of being able to drive short trips and car heating up faster.
  15. What do you mean by this? Maybe I'd understand if it were an automatic gearbox, but in a manual clutch is absolutely dependant on how the user uses it. I can go to a dealer and buy a brand-spanking-new car and it would take me something like an hour to completely destroy the clutch, if I wanted to that is. Clutch wear is directly linked to the user. If you're driving only on highways, your clutches very well could live up to 200k or even 300k miles. However, if you're driving mostly in the city with a lot of stop-and-go traffic, 35k miles isn't out of the ordinary for a clutch. To me it's very obvious why clutches aren't under any warranty and this is the case in my country as well. If you came to the dealer with a worn out clutch in hopes of any warranty work, you'd get laughed out of the room. It's the same with brakes, windshields, tires, struts, and any other suspension and "standard wear and tear" components. Basically warranty is only for the engine, transmission box itself and any electrical work that might need to be done.
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