Byzii

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Byzii last won the day on August 8 2018

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About Byzii

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    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Edvards
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis T25 Estate 1CD-FTV
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. Magnus, You can always secure the new plastic trays with screws and zip ties which should hold it far better than the damn clips (don't know what Toyota were thinking). Without the trays there's always an increased risk of having a bad time, from the water ingress in engine bay to the arguably most important part — oil pan — being without protection. I know my oil pan is rusted to hell and I'll be replacing it at next oil change since a good knock from a rock could potentially lead to some pain.
  2. Hey Phil, I think bigey was talking about the plastic covers that are under the car and are meant to protect the oil pan and to keep water out of the engine bay. Bigey, I think you can remove the understrays (I know how poorly they're fitted, mine are holding on screws and a few cleverly-placed zip-ties) but you should also keep in mind that your oil pan won't be protected and there might be some water ingress in the engine bay so if you like to keep it looking clean and tidy, this isn't the way to achieve it. I don't know about safety of this though, as in - how safe is it to let water enter the engine bay. Generally speaking they're meant to be quite water-proof but things like alternator could get damaged if you happen to drive through a particularly large puddle. Also I think you'll notice road noise/wind noise differences since the plastic is designed in a way to guide the winds in a particular way.
  3. Hey, It's quite hard to understand what noise you're talking about, things like whooshing and roaring simply don't mix in my head so if you could find a similar noise on YouTube or even record it that would aid in faster diagnosis.
  4. Popping out of gear can be due to low or dirty tranny fluid but it can also be due to worn tranny or engine mounts, bad linkage or maybe synchronizers are boned. If you intend to keep the car then changing the fluid shouldn't be too expensive and is something to be done always on new purchase, and you could see if it solves the issue. If you bought privately then I don't know what would be your chances of getting anything back, it's usually "well you saw what you bought so good luck".
  5. Seeing as it was only 300 quid I assume it was only the clutch itself? Sure, clutches are cheap, it's the labour that is more expensive, not to mention the flywheel which should also be replaced.
  6. Weren't there two different versions though? One was 1CD-FTV on T25 Avensis, or CDT250, and the other was the one fitted on T22 Avensis, so CDT220 probably (or was it CDT150?). There have also been documented talks about turbo units being slightly different for this same engine in different models, although again it's not quite clear where people got those engines.
  7. With such small mileage per year (which I assume is mostly short trips?) do you really need/want a diesel? I'd recommend anyone to steer clear of any diesel engines, ever, and will continue to do so unless something changes my mind, which is very unlikely. Even older diesels have problems just due to the nature of their design but the newer ones with all the emissions stuff piled up really doesn't do any favors. Any potential savings from fuel add up quickly when all the emissions stuff starts having problems. Nowadays petrols can get very good fuel economy and with good care are able to travel 200k+ miles without issues. Next to zero extra expensive emissions stuff, no expensive injector issues, no driveshaft issues, etc. I'd just recommend to really think about getting a newer diesel when modern petrols get almost the same mileage, cost less overall in terms of ownership, have less problems (BMW engine and tranny, yikes!) and even the added benefit of being able to drive short trips and car heating up faster.
  8. What do you mean by this? Maybe I'd understand if it were an automatic gearbox, but in a manual clutch is absolutely dependant on how the user uses it. I can go to a dealer and buy a brand-spanking-new car and it would take me something like an hour to completely destroy the clutch, if I wanted to that is. Clutch wear is directly linked to the user. If you're driving only on highways, your clutches very well could live up to 200k or even 300k miles. However, if you're driving mostly in the city with a lot of stop-and-go traffic, 35k miles isn't out of the ordinary for a clutch. To me it's very obvious why clutches aren't under any warranty and this is the case in my country as well. If you came to the dealer with a worn out clutch in hopes of any warranty work, you'd get laughed out of the room. It's the same with brakes, windshields, tires, struts, and any other suspension and "standard wear and tear" components. Basically warranty is only for the engine, transmission box itself and any electrical work that might need to be done.
  9. I'd say dealers are last resort and are always bad at diagnosing things. They'll hear you say "losing coolant" and they won't even allow you to finish your sentence, they'll just give you a price of 7k pounds for a new engine. You need a reputable mechanic that is qualified and willing to diagnose and possibly fix it or at least advise you, not just some garage that wants your money and couldn't care less about you or your business.
  10. There's only so many places the coolant can go. Pressure tests don't always highlight the problem. If you want to be really throrough, you need to do this somewhat methodically. I also had a coolant problem and these steps should help you since I was chasing the problem incorrectly and didn't take controlled measurements to fully understand what was happening. First, you need to take accurate measurements. Two measurements are required, on a completely cold engine and on a throroughly hot engine. The engine needs to be really up to its full temperature, which means it needs a good highway run (of course, if your coolant loss problem isn't as severe). Once you have that baseline, you need to understand when the coolant gets lost. When you first start your car from cold, coolant circulates in the "closed" loop - coolant doesn't go through radiator. Coolant starts going through radiator once the thermostat opens, which is around 80 degrees Celsius. From this you can test whether the coolant gets lost even when driving without getting the engine up to temperature, or does coolant get lost only once engine is warmed up? This narrows down the problematic area. (In my case the radiator had a tiny hole at the bottom and would occasionally leak.) If your coolant gets lost even when it doesn't go through radiator, you can rule that out. If there are no visible coolant stains or pooled up coolant at the bottom plastic pan, then you could look at your waterpump area. It's probably hidden by the timing belt/chain cover, but if you're losing enough coolant, you could probably see coolant stains somewhere on the cover or where the bottom end of the cover meets engine block. Is there bubbling in the coolant expansion bottle? Is there any discoloration in the bottle? Oil in there? Also, take the engine oil filler cap and have a look around, if you've been losing coolant long enough and it gets into the engine, oil will be like a milkshake. Another area of concern could be the cabin heater core. You can have a look around there, maybe the carpet is wet underneath?
  11. I get a nasty whine from my V belt, which only got worse when the belt got removed and then tightened again. Noise is probably coming from a pulley somewhere in there, and the noise is accompanied by a growl/scraping sound when engine is idling. I actually confused the whine with a turbo as well but my mechanic could say immediately that turbo doesn't sound like that, it's not as high pitched. It definitely sounds like there's something wrong in your V belt department. Now you have to find out if the oil pressure light was there because of actual no pressure or because the alternator didn't charge the battery and it's a random light. Cheapest option to begin would be to drain the oil and through the drain plug look at oil pickup screen via a small camera and light. That would rule out sludged out oil screen. You could also just remove V belt and go for a drive to see if the noise is gone but it would be worthwhile to go through all pulleys. In some cases a pulley can seize so bad it starts stalling or dragging the engine, it physically starts restricting it.
  12. The first things to check out would be battery, alternator and starter, along with cables going to and from each of these devices. Random lights going off on the dashboard usually points to the charging system, but if that's the only light you got then I'd have other things on my minds, too. The low oil pressure light comes on when there's absolutely no oil pressure at all, so it could also have something to do with the belt/chain system? Oil pump is on the same belt/chain as the waterpump, crankshaft, etc, so if it suddenly decided to go it could create a whining noise. Hard to tell since we don't know exactly what kind of sounds were there. What does it mean when engine starts "sucking"?
  13. Glad it worked out for you, that's quite an expensive code reader. It's really strange why 2 independent garages couldn't hook up to Toyota's ECU, IIRC it's possible to see some data even with VAGCOM, not to mention the array of cheap ELM adapters available that can also read the codes.
  14. Hey, Manual gearboxes generally aren't as tricky as automatic gearboxes. It's recommended to change the transmission fluid every 100,000 km's. For the specific type of the fluid needed you can consult your user manual or somebody here will probably be able to chime in with the exact fluid needed. And don't ever believe anyone who says that any fluid in a car is "for life". The only way a fluid in a car is for life is when you don't change it long enough and something breaks - leading for replacement and it truly being "for life".
  15. You also need a correct cable for it to work properly. Just any OBD2 cable will not work. This is similar to other manufacturers, say, BMW or VAG - they all need a special cable that works only with their vehicles. A basic OBD2 cable can work but will only give basic OBD2 features. There's the expensive original ones (waaaaay too expensive) and cheaper ones found on ebay and Amazon for around 20 to 30 quid. They work perfectly apart from flashing the ECU.