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IanXT4 last won the day on November 28 2015

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About IanXT4

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    Rav4 4.2 2004 Petrol Manual XT4
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  1. Job Done For the record if anyone with a 1AZFE 2000 -2005 UK Rav4 needs to replace their accessory belt tensioner this is how I did it Jacked and supported the car RHS Removed wheel on RHS and wheel arch plastic service cover Removed accessory belt Loosened both tensioner bolts (you need a long 14 ring spanner and extension) Placed a further jack with block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine and removed the three bolts connecting the engine to the engine mount I then dropped the engine carefully as far as it would comfortably go, which was not far about 4cm and the long main tensioner mounting bolt was still adjacent the chassis. However the tilt to the bolt seemed to give enough room to fully unscrew the bolt and easily wiggle the tensioner unit out with the bolt still loose in the tensioner. To reinstall place the bolt in the new tensioner and wiggle it into place . (it was not necessary to remove the spring cylinder from the tensioner for removal or re-installation) Ian
  2. Thanks for the replys, I spent some more time looking at the problem and I am still hoping someone will be able to confirm that the bolt can be retrieved by dropping the engine. Looking at all the posts on the internet indicates its very engine/model /country specific ie RHD, location of ABS etc. I can find USA 2AZFE guides but no UK 1AZFE Raising it looks like it will require moving an engine mount and a lot of the abs piping and working in a really cramped space Thanks Grumpy for the Roys Motor Company link but I don't feel comfortable asking advice from someone on their "paid time" when I am not able to put any business in their direction. Thanks Ian
  3. Thanks for the reply, but the 1CD-FTV diesel is a totally different engine, tensioner etc etc I was hoping to get some tips from anyone who has replaced an accessory belt tensioner on a 2000 - 2005 UK manual RHD 1AZFE petrol engine. Do I lower the engine or raise the engine to remove the tensioner mounting bolt ? Ian
  4. Hi When I was conducting routine maintenance today to replace the accessory belt on my 2004 Rav4 Petrol Manual, I discovered the tensioner had developed play at the mounting of the hydraulic cylinder to the tensioner body and the pulley bearing sounded dry. I have identified a quality OEM replacement tensioner part no INA 533002310 but on researching the replacement process, it seems that the pivot bolt removal is a "PIG" hitting the chassis and requires that the engine be moved !! On inspection the bolt is halfway up a chassis member - which way do I move the engine up or down ? YouTube is full of American versions of this engine going up, on inspection my UK version looks as though it would be easier to drop from the engine mount, requiring just the removal or three engine mounting bolts and extracting the bolt via the wheel arch. A big help would be someone who has experience of replacing this tensioner on a UK 2000- 2005 RAV4 1AZFE engine (manual). Do I go down? Do I need to remove any other engine mounting bolts or accessories? The engine looks like it has to drop a way to get bolt removal clearance and I do not wish to damage anything? Any other tips/advice for doing this job ? Thanks for your help Ian
  5. Hi, my Petrol 2004 XT4 definitely did not come with a clutch switch. I had buy it from my Toyota dealer and add it to allow the ECU/cruise control to know to switch off when the clutch is pressed. (switch cost about £15) The car wiring loom was wired for cruise, so all I had to do was add the switch and connect it to a nearby connector. If you have a switch as standard on the clutch, I suspect its possibly for something else ? I doubt that Toyota would spend the money on a switch that is not used ?? Is your car a diesel ?, could there be a reason why the car ECU would want to know that you had the clutch depressed ? (I googled but could not find anything) When I fitted the cruise I spent a few Euros (3 euros for an hours download) and downloaded all the wiring schematics/connector locations etc for my specific car from the Toyota web site. From this I could see what each connector and switch did. I could also see that the wiring loom was fitted for the cruise control. http://www.toyota-tech.eu/ Sorry can not be of any more help, but my guess is your problem may lay with an input from the clutch to the ECU :-) Good luck Ian
  6. Hi, I have fitted a cruise stalk to an petrol XT4 2004 which has been working for a few years, here are some possible reasons why your switch may not be working. I seem to remember that there was a change to the XT4 in 2004 that included a drive by wire throttle body. (ie there is no direct mechanical connection between the throttle body and the throttle pedal) If your throttle body is linked by a cable to the throttle pedal, I suspect the simple addition of a cruise stalk will not work. If you have do have a drive by wire throttle and have a manual transmission, have you fitted the clutch pedal switch ? I am sorry its been such a long time since I fitted this mod that I can not provide any precise wiring information. hope this helps Ian
  7. I am sorry to disagree, but I think oil additives are a desperate measure, they have potential to cause all sorts of problems. I think its always better to just stick to a quality oil but play with grades.
  8. You could try a slightly thicker oil, mine has always been filled with 10w40 Semi Synthetic Magnatec as thats what the dealer used on day one. It has never burned a drop between services. I think just after I bought the car dealers started using 3W30 as a standard fill, however some people reported burning more oil as the thinner oil gets past the piston rings. As long as the oil conforms to your manual specs you will be ok. There is some debate in engine forums if older engines made around early 2000 are better on a slightly thicker oil, especially as they get older, it helps reduces initial startup wear. The drive for super thin oils is primarily to reduce emissions. Obviously the latest engines are specially designed for super thin oils (5W20) and you have to follow their manual guidlines.
  9. I have a 2004 XT4 petrol manual (VVTi) and its also noisy (bit like a diesel) and little rough to drive for a short while when cold. The engine is one of the fastest I have owned to warm up and everything sounds fine when warm. I have had the car since new and its always been like this. Personally I would not worry if there are no noises when its warm, there are bound to be excess tolerances when cold. These tolerances will vary between engines whats important is what it sounds like when up to operating temperature. As with all cars I have owned, I try to avoid puting to much load on the car when its cold, I go gentle with the pedal :-)
  10. I own a late 4.2 petrol and touch wood its been one of the most well sorted reliable cars I have owned. Around 2004 the engine went to two Lambda sensors and drive by wire throttle body eliminating the idle valve. Only problems I have had is passenger side front gearbox oil seal weeping. (Garage quoted £150, but I did it DIY) Rear brake callipers have pins which may seize in if not lubricated approx every two years. (really simple DIY) Throttle body needed a clean at approx 50K. A simple DIY job. (If the car does not creep smoothly at idle in first gear its probably needs cleaning). Battery on the petrol cars is a joke, when replacing fit a Diesel version. Check for a full service history, also worth checking that "optional" service items have been done Ie Brake fluid approx two years, Gear box oil (not replaced on service schedule), Auxiliary drive belt.
  11. Try adjusting the speed that you change gear, I think I slowed/relaxed my gear change. Now I don't notice the hang and the gear change is smooth and relaxed. Well as smooth as RAV gear changes can be, notchy 1st to second transitions are another known feature.
  12. Once you have driven the car for a while I found you adjust your technique and now I don't even notice it any more.
  13. There have been many posts in the past regarding revs not dropping when changing gear, here is a good one. Scroll to the top and read the whole thread. http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/110702-revs-hanging-when-changing-gear/?hl=%2Brevs+%2Bdrop#entry1003277 Is this what you are experiencing ? If it is its a design feature of the car and not a fault.
  14. IanXT4

    Buying Rav4

    Don't rely to much on an MOT as a guide to the condition of the car. I've known of cars passing their MOTs only to cost 100's in repairs a few weeks or months later. Generally Rav4s are very reliable but there are always exceptions. There are loads of articles giving car buying advice on the internet such as http://www.which.co.uk/cars/choosing-a-car/buying-a-car/buying-a-used-car/ Obviously service history is very important . I was going to suggest you get a car report such as http://www.rac.co.uk/buying-a-car/vehicle-inspections/vehicle-inspections-for-private-buyers/ But this would be prohibitively expensive for an S reg Rav4.
  15. I was very interested in the Petrol version of the new 4.4 as I do lots of short trips. However the after some research into CVT technology it has put me off. It would appear that these transmissions are very new and may have some way to go before they are as reliable as the old auto's. For many years engines and gear boxes were slowly refined to a point of exceptional reliability. Now modern fast changing emission standards is resulting in lots of new technology being introduced into cars that will take some time to make "long term reliable". I guess if you keep the car for just the warranty period its not a problem. Personally due to my low mileages I like to keep them for many more.