Peter Bryenton

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About Peter Bryenton

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    RAV4 3-door, 2L Petrol, Auto.
  • Toyota Year
    2013
  • Location
    Gloucestershire
  • Interests
    Arts & Crafts
  1. Thanks for your helpful advice. I'll get the sender unit checked, then if that's working properly, I'll use a specialist instrument repairer. Cheers Peter
  2. Hi. I took the instrument panel out of my 2003 RAV4 3-door, thinking I'd replace a suspected blown bulb, because the amber warning lamp never illuminates. The rear of the assembly is just a fairly smooth, flat grey sheet with no obviously removeable bulb holders (see two photos attached). 1. Maybe it's a sealed unit? 2. Maybe there are PCB-mounted LEDs inside? 3. Maybe the physical sender unit in the fuel tank is faulty? Advice gratefully received, thanks. I'm carrying a full 5 litre spare petrol can for now, just in case. Peter
  3. Very helpful, thanks G. I'll get that sorted now. Cheers Peter
  4. Hi Folks. I think the selection numbers next to the auto gear shift stick (the floor-mounted ones, not those up on the dashboard) should light up at night? If true, is the bulb change an easy DIY task please? Cheers Peter
  5. Perfect, thank you very much Mike. Cheers Peter
  6. I'd like to stop the battery cover rattling, by replacing the missing plastic retaining clips, but first I need to know what the correct name of this part is to be able to source new ones. Pic attached.
  7. Thanks Jay. My neighbour asked me if it would also put out a call for Batman. I told him no, but that Mothman keeps banging his head on the roof, ha-ha. Cheers Peter
  8. I don’t know if anyone else finds the interior (rear cabin) light a bit dim, but the one in my 2003 RAV4 3-door is. Replacing the tungsten “festoon” bulb with an LED type would have brightened things up a bit, but the location of the light source leaves a few dark corners in my opinion, so I extended the illumination by adding a strip of 15 LEDs taken from a broken kitchen cupboard downlighter which uses 12V DC. I used the existing holes in the original interior light holder to take my power feed from, so that I could return to the original setup if I ever wanted to. The long, lightweight flexible lighting strip attached to the roof lining with two 6mm “flat” cable clips, taking out the integral nails and replacing them with screws. Safety note: I removed the battery negative connector before starting any of the investigative work. With the circuit powered, I used a multimeter to identify the positive and negative terminals in the original bulb holder, marking my additional wires with a red and a black Sharpie pen so that the LEDs were wired correctly, because the strip connector had two plain white wires, but the printed circuit board was marked with + and - signs). Photos show the results of this DIY project. The picture of the original light fitting was taken at an intermediate testing stage.
  9. Thank you very much Ian. I really like the logical thinking behind your solution. There's an electronic components shop not far from me, so I'll go there for the diodes. Sincerely Peter
  10. Hi I understand that retro-fitted DRLs require a plus volts feed to a dimmer sense wire on a control box in order to comply with UK law. I can find any amount of permanently ON +12V in the headlamp wiring loom and engine bay fusebox, but I have not so far been able to trace a circuit which is only ON when the sidelights or dipped headlamps are illuminated. Any solution(s) please for a 2003 RAV4?