spl@

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Everything posted by spl@

  1. spl@

    New Headunit wanted

    Fitted ok, recommend a trim removal tool but you can fish the wires through the dash and up into the headlining to hide the aerial and mic in the area behind the mirror easily enough, crash cam lives there too. Needs a gps antenna for sat nav to work which they don't tell you. Dab radio, internet linked to your phone, sat nav etc. Looks factory too which is nice. Takes a while to figure how to use it as the manual is garbage. it is a bit slow to start up but im talking 20 seconds maybe. By the time you have your seatbelt on and got sorted to move off its up and running. Id give it a 4 out of 5.
  2. spl@

    New Headunit wanted

    Have bought one of these for the same reasons (but android) with a reversing camera. Should be here anytime, will post how I get on. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0793RRB2B/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. spl@

    WOW, original tyres.

    Update time. Have now put around 4k on the General At3's. No complaints, lost a tiny bit of mpg but no other negatives. the noise is fine, nothing more than background at most. They grip well and going on previous sets on a P38 rangy they will last a good 30-40k. the look is good too, not too 'butch off road tyre' but enough to get the job done. Haven't been able to make them misbehave yet. Have driven some field tracks and grass and had a bit of a hoon around my mates farm. Just gripped. May take her to a AWD club day to see how she does. Normal road driving is fine, if and it is an if, you go into a bend fast and wimp out and get off the throttle the car will oversteer but that is more down to the driver being a plum and losing the power from the rear wheels than anything to do with the tyres. Have the confidence that she will go round and unless your driving has the passengers reaching for the sick bag you will be fine. All in at 130 a corner fitted and balanced I'm very happy with them.
  4. spl@

    Diesel dilemma

    Unless you do town/city work the hybrid is pointless anyway, just a regular petrol car carrying a load of extra weight. I live and work out of town and it would be of no use, I did the numbers a while ago. We have a big caravan so need the torque figures from the 2.2 diesel. The petrol just would not cut it without really working it hard and burning gas big time. While looking to replace our old car I checked a lot of vehicles, crv, vw's etc and very few now have the 2t towing limit I need to safely pull my van. A lot have pathetic towing figures in the search for emissions as they have (as said) pokey little engines and just 'look' strong.
  5. General grabbers, had them on 2 range rovers and a land rover, MT's on the landy and original AT's on the range rover and happily fitted them to the rav too, AT3's this time but same basic tyre. They wear well, are not too loud and handle fine. From experience thick sticky mud stops all but the most hardcore tyre, grabbers are like the BF Goodrich all terrains but a good bit cheaper. On farm roads and tracks they will be fine. I fitted them because we like camping in small out of the way sites that are invariably some sort of field, some even have honesty boxed for the site fees and are truly on there own, but if you get stuck, your stuck. No one will stumble past so you have to be able to drive on light mud/wet grass areas, grades while towing my caravan and i can say hand on heart I have never worried about it. Solo, to be honest, you can fit what you like 4wd will get you through with nigh on slicks. If you want a 50/50 tyre the grabber is pretty good. Will cost you a couple of mpg points, im down maybe 2mpg since swapping from the nasty duellers. Mine were 130 a corner fitted and balanced.
  6. Had sensors on our old car, you wait till it snows.
  7. spl@

    WOW, original tyres.

    Well I went for the Generals. Cost 130 a corner and are just peachy. There is no problem with grip or stability. I think you would have to be a proper plumb to upset the rav anyway aside from lifting mid corner, that seems to send it a bit unsettled. Have now put 500 miles on them, wet and dry and there maybe a mile per gallon down on fuel. Not nearly as noisy as the Bridgestones. You can hear them but its not intrusive now. I know they work well far beyond the grip I need. Recommended, more tyre than you will need in truth unless you do actually need to use the 4wd button.
  8. This is the item number of the unit I fitted to my XT4 2007. 8463234011. Plugged straight in. No enabling, nothing. Works perfect, its gone up a fiver since I bought it though.
  9. Makes you wonder how these idea's get to the road. Why are they not stopped.
  10. I had a near miss last night with a moron that fully committed to a corner using all the road, including my side into a corner because his headlights masked my approach. They also blinded me to the point I could see nothing but blue blobs for a minute or so afterwards. I had to pull up until my vision cleared. The thing is I don't rate the modern lights all that much, they are fitted to the trucks at work and are appalling. They give a bright trapezoid on the road in front of the vehicle that is SO bright anything else is black. Main beam on the other hand melts cats eyes at a thousand yards (sarcasm). On older vehicles the lights were not as physically bright but you had far better light and not as tiresome to use. You could also drive towards them without being blinded. The most disturbing point for me is how darn bright the lights are as you approach them. Especially if they are cresting a rise or its one of the latest cars with automatic dip (that seems as dopey as human reactions). How are they allowed, surely testing by manufacturers has shown how ineffective they are in the real world. What use is a car headlight that blinds oncoming cars but doesent offer the proper light to see with. Wondered what other views were.
  11. Hmm, services, a recall because of a TSB on the rear suspension, the ecu reprogrammed? and at 26000 just "customer complaint corrected under warranty" right through the description. What that was is anybody's guess. Dated as 2016 so too late for the goodwill, to late for any warranty?. Least it looks like its been maintained by Toyota.
  12. While under the car fitting that cursed undertray and its clips I noticed that the engine looked a lot fresher than the gearbox. Curious I looked a little deeper and some of the ancillary parts looked to share the condition of the gearbox, ( that white dusting ally takes on after a time as it ages) stuff like the oil filter housing, the starter I removed. While the sump (including bolts etc) looked hardly touched, new. You could autoglym the sump I have no reason to disbelieve that the engine has been replaced. My neighbour who knows Toyotas (excellent mechanic if needed in Northampton) said with lots of stop start chugging if it was going to go it would have. His words do seem to be born out by the car. Nothing to say for certain paperwork wise but I think I will be true to my overly optimistic self and say its been 'done' at some point in the past.
  13. My lovely new Rav wasn't starting right, thought it might be the battery but after checking there was nothing wrong with the battery and all the connections are great sooooo. First step, acquiring a replacement starter motor, easy from a post on here. Was initially worried at the price of some of the chancers, even GSF wanted several hundred pounds, that's with discounts. I got the item number. Still current, 221152942647. Eighty quid delivered next day, no exchange fuss etc. That thread said there is nothing else to remove, pah. Need to be a magician. Anyway, first step is make a coffee (have a smoke if you must). First real step really is getting the plastic undertray off, cursed things with the nasty clips. Long row of perfectly good 10mm bolts at the bottom of the bumper then your fighting with clips at the sides and rear, the ones you pop the centres out of. 3 really meaty ones at the back. Next, the trim panel at the top front of the engine bay, these clips are truly a joy after the ones under the car. Just press the centre till you hear a click and they lift out. Lift the trim away and put somewhere safe with the clips. Now you can get at the hose clips for the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body. Just 2 jubilee clips no biggy, put away safe. Might get a couple of drips of black oily yuk after taking it off, be handy with a bit of card or something to avoid laying in it later, go on ask, go on. People always bang on about disconnecting the battery. Yep same here but the bonus is your going to take it out anyway, completely. Once the battery is out, (no radio code to worry about although it will need retuning). You then need to pull off the battery tray, just a clip good pull and its off. Then undo the cables clipped to the metal base and undo the 4 bolts holding it on, note the earth in the bottom right corner. then once that is out you can remove the support bracket. 2 more bolts for this, (all 12mm). Did you let your coffee go cold? Only me then. Now, after re making my coffee, (well quick nuke). You will see the loom is held by some 10mm bolts. Its a squarish plastic thing, you cannot miss it. undo the bolt holding this it will give you enough room to see/get at the top starter bolt. Now we need to disconnect the starter, the solenoid low tension line has an irritating little clip that you need to press while pulling, sounds simple but you can only get one hand in. Don't force it when you get it right it comes off easily. Pop the cover off the high tension side and undo the nut, keep it safe my new unit didn't have one. Now the challenge, the starter bolts are a pain to get to and stiff, not tight as such. They have a fine pitch so take a lot of winding and need a bit of ingenuity to get them moving. Start with the bottom one, 17mm spanner, my 'trick' as such to loosen them initially was to put the ring end of my 17mm on the bolt and it leaves JUST enough room to get my 19mm spanner looped on the other end to act as a lever. That got me enough oomf to get it moving. Leave the bottom bolt in with a few threads then undo the top, same trick with the spanner, this bolt goes right through the bell housing. There is a bellhousing bolt close but that is higher and far too easy to get at to be the one your after. On my car its a dull black too. The starter bolts are nice and shiny (eee😊) You will be cursing the top bolt as it OH so slowly winds out. You wont get it out but it moves far enough to remove the starter. Now your back underneath, (drunk your coffee yet?) Remove the bottom bolt and be ready to catch the starter, don't worry its not coming out the bottom. All that faf removing the battery and its tray, yep. Wasn't for easier access to that top bolt. Going right. Its a bit of a wiggle but it does come, then out the top where the battery was. Refitting the new unit is as so eloquently put by Haynes, "the reversal of removal procedure". Geitting the bolts started while holding the starter with one hand is a challenge, having a mate handy would make things easier there. Prob take a couple of hours to get it out and an hour or so to put it back. I started at 7.30 in the evening, (needs must). I was done and washing my hands at half ten. Boring bit, I did this on my car, a 2007 RAV4.3 2.2 D4-D XT4. Your car may or may not be the same and I'm human. I can make mistakes. This was written to help/inform others not as a litteral how to. Used at your own risk.
  14. Sorry mods, posted it in the wrong spot. Thought I was in the guides bit not the rav forum, could you move, pretty please,
  15. My lovely new Rav wasn't starting right, thought it might be the battery but after checking there was nothing wrong with the battery and all the connections are great sooooo. First step, acquiring a replacement starter motor, easy from a post on here. Was initially worried at the price of some of the chancers, even GSF wanted several hundred pounds, that's with discounts. I got the item number. Still current, 221152942647. Eighty quid delivered next day, no exchange fuss etc. That thread said there is nothing else to remove, pah. Need to be a magician. Anyway, first step is make a coffee (have a smoke if you must). First real step really is getting the plastic undertray off, cursed things with the nasty clips. Long row of perfectly good 10mm bolts at the bottom of the bumper then your fighting with clips at the sides and rear, the ones you pop the centres out of. 3 really meaty ones at the back. Next, the trim panel at the top front of the engine bay, these clips are truly a joy after the ones under the car. Just press the centre till you hear a click and they lift out. Lift the trim away and put somewhere safe with the clips. Now you can get at the hose clips for the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body. Just 2 jubilee clips no biggy, put away safe. Might get a couple of drips of black oily yuk after taking it off, be handy with a bit of card or something to avoid laying in it later, go on ask, go on. People always bang on about disconnecting the battery. Yep same here but the bonus is your going to take it out anyway, completely. Once the battery is out, (no radio code to worry about although it will need retuning). You then need to pull off the battery tray, just a clip good pull and its off. Then undo the cables clipped to the metal base and undo the 4 bolts holding it on, note the earth in the bottom right corner. then once that is out you can remove the support bracket. 2 more bolts for this, (all 12mm). Did you let your coffee go cold? Only me then. Now, after re making my coffee, (well quick nuke). You will see the loom is held by some 10mm bolts. Its a squarish plastic thing, you cannot miss it. undo the bolt holding this it will give you enough room to see/get at the top starter bolt. Now we need to disconnect the starter, the solenoid low tension line has an irritating little clip that you need to press while pulling, sounds simple but you can only get one hand in. Don't force it when you get it right it comes off easily. Pop the cover off the high tension side and undo the nut, keep it safe my new unit didn't have one. Now the challenge, the starter bolts are a pain to get to and stiff, not tight as such. They have a fine pitch so take a lot of winding and need a bit of ingenuity to get them moving. Start with the bottom one, 17mm spanner, my 'trick' as such to loosen them initially was to put the ring end of my 17mm on the bolt and it leaves JUST enough room to get my 19mm spanner looped on the other end to act as a lever. That got me enough oomf to get it moving. Leave the bottom bolt in with a few threads then undo the top, same trick with the spanner, this bolt goes right through the bell housing. There is a bellhousing bolt close but that is higher and far too easy to get at to be the one your after. On my car its a dull black too. The starter bolts are nice and shiny (eee😊) You will be cursing the top bolt as it OH so slowly winds out. You wont get it out but it moves far enough to remove the starter. Now your back underneath, (drunk your coffee yet?) Remove the bottom bolt and be ready to catch the starter, don't worry its not coming out the bottom. All that faf removing the battery and its tray, yep. Wasn't for easier access to that top bolt. Going right. Its a bit of a wiggle but it does come, then out the top where the battery was. Refitting the new unit is as so eloquently put by Haynes, "the reversal of removal procedure". Geitting the bolts started while holding the starter with one hand is a challenge, having a mate handy would make things easier there. Prob take a couple of hours to get it out and an hour or so to put it back. I started at 7.30 in the evening, (needs must). I was done and washing my hands at half ten. Boring bit, I did this on my car, a 2007 RAV4.3 2.2 D4-D XT4. Your car may or may not be the same and I'm human. I can make mistakes. This was written to help/inform others not as a litteral how to. Used at your own risk.
  16. Calipers too? Normally the sliding pins have dried out and started to stick giving the impression of a bad caliper.
  17. Just back after road testing mine, on a 2007 XT4 2.2 D4-D, worked a treat. Thanks, was really missing cruise control.
  18. spl@

    WOW, original tyres.

    Thanks that is exactly the kind of information I wanted, I don't want to punt 500 quid on tyres only to get stuck in the same grass that stumped the mondy. We used to use off grid sites, some of which are not even manned. There are several in the new forest that still use honesty boxes, these are down quiet roads into fields and you can not see anybody for the weekend sometimes. In this day and age that's bliss in my book, but you cannot use them if your going to, or there is a high risk you will get stuck.
  19. spl@

    WOW, original tyres.

    Thanks, yes the bridgestones are the oe tyres and have plenty of actual tread left. Its the age issue for me. I do not want to be wondering about tyres at 60mph towing my caravan with my missus and kids in the car. Also as you say the road noise at times is unbelievable, probably because of their age maybe? We changed the caravan tyres at 7 years old for the same reason, well 2 @6 years and 2@ 7. Will look at the nokian, the wranglers seem a popular choice too.
  20. Mk3 2000e , or a superspeed cortina for me but otherwise I agree entirely.
  21. Just out of curiosity I actually looked at my tyres today, I mean LOOKED. Would you believe they are the original, oe tyres, dated 20th week 2007. 😮 Considering their !Removed! noisy and probably not condusive to pulling a caravan out of a wet field I was wondering on my options. I had grabber at's on my old much missed rangy P38 (not a knackerd ol mud plugger btw) and they were great everywhere, even proper off road, in as much as it did. So as you lot know this vehicle a lot better than I do, what would be the pick, wet campsite grass is as heavy duty as it will get off road (surprisingly challenging pulling 1600kg), decent mileage would be nice, outright road grip is irrelevant, im more interested in the mpg these days than the mph. Confess I still fancy the grabber at's cos they look the part, not too butch but still enough grip for anything, but happy to be redirected.
  22. spl@

    Just found the RAV!

    Sorry, probably could have been worded better. I know now that the chances are slim I will have an issue as forums do concentrate problems, (how many people come on and say everything is great) but after having the experience of a P38 range rover and the eternal water/headgasket issues with those I may have been a bit sensitive.
  23. spl@

    Just found the RAV!

    Doom and gloom, way to pi-- on someone's mood. Its no worse than the kia, their vacume pumps fail (seeing as its part of the cam sprocket) guess what happens, yep total engine boom. Hyundai, their 2.2 engine has a nasty habit of destroying its self all on its own due to oil issues without warning. Hyundai and kia have DMF flywheel issues when towing, the santa fe clutch can fail as the mood takes it Kia, Hyundai again with massive issues with diesel system blockages on the 1.7. jeep have enough issues, often electrical, expensive too. That v6 is no saint either. Land rover, ? nuff said. Mitsibushi have terminal cam shaft and timing chain tensioner issues that can kill the engine. Also that engine was probably powering the Ark. Nothing is perfect, the rav issues amount to around 8% of total reported warranty rav problems which is still a low number, land rover run at over 50% of vehicles will have a warranty worth claim, the odds of a rear axle failure if you tow a lot are crazy, likewise with the reduction drive. But the rav issues wont leave you walking. Its 12 years old and mint, the road noise through the tyres is louder than the engine (it goes like a stabbed rat by the way) it beats my old Mondeo (2.0TDi 140) on performance and MPG, showing 45mpg average atm, the coolant is a bright candy red and you can barely see the oil on the stick its that clean. Who knows, it may well have had the warranty work done. Im throwing the dice of fate.
  24. Yeah, standard mid model life upgrade, so 2006 to 2012 will be fine.