gXX

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About gXX

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Anders
  • Toyota Model
    Aygo
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Other/NonUK
  1. gXX

    1KR-FE 2014+ in 2005+

    Hi Stefan, I have no idea why someone would suggest that. The engine is straight mechanical with regular sensors on it (pressure, temperature, cam location, etc). Can't see anywhere that the engine in any way would be programmed to the ECU. I don't take responsibility though 🙂 So I just used everything already in the car. Will post a video soon.
  2. gXX

    1KR-FE 2014+ in 2005+

    Talking to myself here, but think I should give an update anyway in case someone finds this thread on google or something. I bought a 1KR-FE with 33 000kms from a 2010 aygo. I wanted a 2009+ since some improvements were done to it. All sensors matched right up. The only thing that I didn't get to fit was a bolt between the gearbox and the engine, it was probably changed to a smaller one on the new engine. I'm not worried though, it's being hold together with 4 large bolts + 2 smaller from the starter motor.
  3. gXX

    1KR-FE 2014+ in 2005+

    I've had another round on this one. 2005-2008 seems to be the first gen 1KR 2009-2013 is the second gen 2014+ is the "third gen". And 2005-2013 seems to be interchangable. So I'll probably order a 2011 one i found with 350 000kms on it.
  4. gXX

    1KR-FE 2014+ in 2005+

    Yea, I think so as well. The ECU is VERY different though: 89661-0H022 on 2005+ vs 89661-0H390 on 2014+ <-- 2005+ <-- 2014+ The pinout is not even nearly the same. So the new ECU is not P&P. The block and head looks identical visually, and I think it's compatible if you have the 1KR-B52M or 1KR-B52V engine (Electronic throttle) wich I have. I'd rather want be sure about this though. Since the computer is pretty different, i'm afraid blowing up another engine 😞
  5. gXX

    1KR-FE 2014+ in 2005+

    Engine dead = needs replacement in my little 2007 Aygo. When I do some research, I notice the 2014+ is EU5 classed vs EU4 on the 2005+, that means lower fuel consumption. Can I throw in a 2014 1KR-FE engine in my 2007 and just go, or is there some other stuff that needs to follow, like ECU or something? On pictures they look very much the same. PLUS, since those little 998cc engines seems to hold up for like 60k - it's easier to find a low mileage 2014+ engine. The OE number differs a bit, 19000-0Q011 for the 2005+ and 19000-0Q060 for the 2014+
  6. gXX

    P0302, misfire cyl. 2

    OK, I did a home made leak down, placed the cyl 2 in TDC and started the compressor. Every little piece of air goes right through and out the exhaust system. So conclusion - dead exhaust valve. Time to replace the engine 🙂
  7. gXX

    P0302, misfire cyl. 2

    I did, and there is nothing. Will try to do a DIY leak-down tomorrow.
  8. gXX

    P0302, misfire cyl. 2

    OH yes! Compression 9 + 0 + 9. Funny stuff, not. What is most likely here?: Burnt valves Cracked head Bad head gasket Killed piston Piston rings? (don't think so since the compression tester didn't respond to added oil in cylinder) I also noticed that the coolant was "brownisch" to a level that is very unusual. The engine oil seems fine. And i've not noticed either unusual oil or water consumption. Wondering if I should replace the engine or diagnose further. The engine only has 62k on it.
  9. gXX

    P0302, misfire cyl. 2

    I have a Aygo 1.0 from 2007. I got fault code P0302, missfire cylinder2. I removed the spark plugs, the one on the cylinder 2 showed signs of typical "pre ignition". Anyhow, I changed all spark plugs - but the code is still there. I moved the coils around to see if the problem followed the coil - It did not. I've removed the coil and the plug to see the actual spark on the plug. And yes, there was a nice spark. I then checked the fuel rail, and oh yes. There was fuel! I removed the injectors and ultra sound cleaned them. I made sure to move them around as well to see if the problem moved to another cylinder. It did not. Still missfire cyl2. I then checked for vacuum leaks with "starter gas", and no signs of any leaks. Now, I've removed the valve cover to oculary check the valves and timing chain. Everything seems fine there as well. My next test will be a compression test - I've just ordered tools for this. Is this the right way to go? And/or can I check something else while I wait for the compresson tester to arrive? Thank you!