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Rayburn

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Posts posted by Rayburn

  1. Should have got a Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo.

    DRL fitted as standard and are great.

    Very pleased with mine.

    Was a bit concerned originally changing from a T to a Skoda, about the ride comfort (sport suspension, 17"alloys & lowered) but its proving a very nice ride indeed.

    It’s true that all manufacturers have problems from time to time.

    It’s how the dealer tackles these probs that makes buying a particular make for a
    good experience or not.

    I only went to Skoda after very poor service from the T dealer. (Not just sales
    but also service. going back 3 times and still not sorted)

    He also considered my Y diesel worth less than petrol with only 16K miles. How he
    got to that I don’t know.

    I did go to two T dealers; the same, not bothered attitude was evident in both.

    That was also another consideration as to changing car models.

    But hey ho, thats life.

    Enjoy whatever you have got.

    R





  2. Sorry Smithy but I dont call that a good deal.

    You owe £13500 and you got part of that loan added to the new car that now cost you £13250.???

    If that was me I would have waited and sold the Auris privatley.

    Sounds like you lost so much money on a one year old car the finance didn't even keep pace with depreciation..????

    But this is the sort of thing I was talking about, i,e the Low P/x values dealers put on our used Ts.

    The Skoda dealer gave me over £1100 more in P/x than the T dealer offered.

    Thays why Ive jumped ship.

  3. Frostyballs

    Quote " The Skoda warranty is two years unlimited mileage, with a third year warranty with a limit of 60,000 miles. However, if you exceed 60,000 miles during the three years, the third year warranty terminates."

    Hi yes I checked that out and I do not expect to do 60,000 miles, although having a Diesel.

    Well I done the deal in the end with Skoda. Monte Carlo 1.6 105bhp.

    I was most upset with T as it seemed they didn't care if they sold a new car or not.

    The Diesel demomstrater never turned up and after nearly 3 months we gave up.

    Skoda fell over backwards to serve us.... not desperate to sell as all the cars are a special order and we had to wait for it.

    We were offerd and given 3 different Fabia,s to test drive.

    Had it now for a little over 10 days and really pleased we changed to Skoda.

    So sorry Toyota after over 10 years of T ownership we have moved on and upwards.

    See you Guys about sometime, as I will pop in to see how your doing.

    Best Regards

    R.

  4. Just a point.

    When I was with Volvo, they did not recommend changing the tyres/wheels Front to Rear.

    Many people asked for this, but when you tell them, this causes "even" tyre wear, and then when you need new tyres you gotta buy 4 instead of just the two.

    So my advice, (fwiw) Leave them where they are.

    Also, if you have a suspension/tracking problem which causes extra tyre wear, you may mask this by swopping the tyres, so not good.

    I replaced just the front tyres at 13,500 miles.

    Rears still ok and will last at least another set of fronts.

    Also, I would always recommend checking the wheel alignment when you fit new front tyres.

    You will most likely find it common, that if you bring the rear tyres to the front you just may have an “off” steering issue.

    That’s the tyres.

    Hope this helps

    R.

  5. Parts King.

    Yes did that.

    Got down to the nitty gritty.....

    Would not budge on a trade in price and only a small disc on the new car (didn't even cover the cost of M/paint). I got the Yaris from him just over 2 years ago.

    He says he wants my car but is knocking me nearly £7k in that time............

    And yes I agree its the cost to change.

    The Skoda sales Price to change is Just over half of what Mr T wants.

    So unless I sell the T privatley it looks like Skoda to p/x.

    I tested the Fabia diesel 1.6 105 bhp. (monte Carlo) sports suspension etc.

    Was Vey Very impressed.

    So watch this space.

  6. I've been looking at new cars, (Yaris) thinking maybe good time to change.

    So started at local T dealers.

    Then onto local other dealers, not T.

    Other dealer offers over £1k (px car) more than T.

    Plus £2.5k less as no vat.

    Come on T. You need to wake up and smell the coffee.

    R

    Ps. Is it me, or has others noticed the new Yaris is very err plastic inside?

  7. Elaine Leigh

    Go get a set of new alloys and tyres. (only if you dont kerb your wheels)

    I put a set on my 04 Diesel and it transformed the car.

    The road holding was 100 times better.

    More stable on M /ways & roundabouts.

    And they made the car look good.

    I just got a new set of 17" for my Van. It realy is worth it.

    From...

    ALLOY WHEEL WORLD .co.uk (highly reccomend)

    4 Wheels with tyres £500. inc' wheel nuts.

    But you have to haggle and barter a lot.

    Or look out for genuine 15" Toyota accessory alloys.

    Guys do trade up to 17" so might be some out there.

    R

    PS steer clear of the 14".

    .

  8. Was in my local dealer today and thought ok new Yaris SR D4D looks good...

    So price up my 2010 D4D TR Yaris with only 14K miles.

    O dear.

    Even "we buy any car.com" offered me more than the dealer.

    So was this a Toyota dealer thing?

    Round to Skoda. Dont larf!

    They offered me nearly a grand more in p/x than Toyota.

    AND the Fabia Monte Carlo 1.6 Diesel 105bhp was £2.5k cheaper.

    Road test was very interesting.

    So will think on a bit.

    Any one have any thoughts?

    R

  9. Jazzy

    Re-read Madasafish reply.

    Hi

    You only need to remove the bottom calliper bolt, swing the calliper up and remove the pads. The calliper is still attached by the upper bolt. Remove the pads and shims.. check you photo them in position or sketch them so you know how to replace properly. No need to remove calliper.

    It sounds like you are trying to remove the calliper mounting bracket bolt. You do not need to do this.

    When I have encountered this problem, I usually chamfer the top & bottom edges of the pads with a course file.

    Then Copper grease on the rear of the pad as has been mentioned

  10. Quote “from 30 to 27 ish and then stay there”

    Well 2Rack,

    If I were you....

    I would get a new Digital tyre gauge (eBay £5-6) and check them myself.

    Next fill the bath with water and place wheel in bath.

    Look for air bubbles these will be (may be)very small. May then need tyres re-sealing on the rims, or you might have a leaky rim.

    Start off first with correct pressures apprx 32psi? Your handbook should tell you.

    Let us know how you get on.

    R

  11. Hi Hartside.

    I fitted a set of these from the makers, something like Parking Sensers.co.uk. Google it.

    Easy to do just don’t rush the job.

    Took me 1.5 hours.

    Wiring easy. Most difficult was measuring and drilling the holes. I put some masking tape over the bumper and drill through that.

    Painted the faces with spray paint a few days before I did the job.

    Looked good for £38 inc' paint. (small aerosol)

    R

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