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Everything posted by Rayburn

  1. Andy. Using a volt meter. Connect + to the horn wire and - to earth. Turn on ignition and press horn. Voltage should read. If no volts replace fuse, just in case. Try that and come back. R
  2. http://www.farecla.com/#/101 This is the one to go for. But use it lightly. If you rub too hard you can go through the paint surface. You can buy this in a tube, just a little larger than toothpaste size. Will keep for years. Try to use it in a line, not circular motion as that can cause scratching. R
  3. If you havent done so, Change the Spark Plugs. I know the service book says something like 40,000 miles but short journeys dont help. I.e the wifes car. Had one few weeks back spluttering when cold, new plugs, clean out the plug hole tube and thats it. Ray
  4. My gauge has been flashing for the past 3 days. Got 565 miles on the clock and thought better fill up.
  5. Try here Timmy. http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/products.asp?id=1316 I got pads couple of weeks ago and seen fine. You can e.mail your requests to. Prices very reasonable. R
  6. How easy is it to access the horn? Lift the bonett and there it is. Just behined the grill. I agree the horn is usless. I replaced mine with a much better one. R
  7. Quote; " Spent ages banging it with a rubber mallet" Rubber Mallet............. Who said a Rubber Mallet? Thats no good. A hammer. You need to Tap/Strike the brake Drum with the hammer all round the top edge of the drum. You can spray a little wd40 round the Hub edge where the Studs are. This will aid removal. Just sit there and dont give up to easy. Dont forget, you need some Spray Brake Cleaner, rag and screwdriver medium size. You will only need to move the brake shoes a little with it, to get the adjuster working. PS. Dont forget to Slacken the Hand Brake adjuster Off a little first. You can Re-adjust it later after doing the brakes. See my last post. R
  8. Quite right the rear brakes are self adjusting....when they work! Do not adjust the cable first. Remove rear brake drums. Normally a quick hit with a hammer on the Drum loosens the drum and should just pull off. Clean off all muck/dust with a spray brake cleaner. Spray into the drum & wipe that clean to. Using a screwdriver push the brake shoe away from the cylinder whilst holding the other shoe tight and this will operate the self adjuster. Do this about 6/8 times watching the adjuster move the cam one tooth at a time. Put the drum back on and check for brake binding. If you gone too far the drum will rub. You don’t want this. So click back the adjuster till the drum fits and doesn't bind. Do the same with the other side. Refit wheels. These should Spin freely. Now check the Handbrake. Pull on 1 click at a time. The wheels should hold firm on 4/5 clicks. Check each side as you Click up the H/brake. If not repeat the operation. Hope this helps. R
  9. Quote; " Hi Everyone ..back again after 2 years.Hows everyone? " Who are you & what do you want? And before you ask, No we havent missed you... Only kidding. Hi Ya Yaris 30 Welcome back. R
  10. I am getting betwen 510 and 550 miles to the tank. Quite varied driving from towns to M ways. But on the whole pretty steady. I dont hang arround but keep speeds under 80. I put on the 15" alloys from the standard 14" alloys and this made a real change to the handling and general driving. Although no noticeable mileage difference. I find in this weather, start engine and then scrape the screen and door glass, then drive off 3 mins max. Dont leave to idle its cold your cold so get going. R 04 D4D
  11. Suggest you replace the reverse lamp switch in the gearbox. You have changed the bulb first ???? Just in case. R
  12. Quote; "I have same problem with Yaris 1999 model. Rear left indicator does not work, tried 2 other bulbs. I am a bit rubbish at mechanical stuff, how do I check if there is a bad earth and where do I get a test meter and do I check for a bad connection?" Remove the Black cover inside the boot, approx 6"x4" behind the rear lamp unit. You will be able to see a large Multi terminal Pushed (black) onto the inside of the rear lamp. Press the wire clip holding this and pull off the fitting, it will have wires going into the fitting plug so be careful not to tug these. Sometimes there is a build up of corrosion on the terminals, so remove and refit a couple of times should do it. Just to the side of the multi terminal plug is a Nut that holds the lamp in the body, loosen the nut and retighten. R
  13. First check your Autobox fluid level. Read instructions on How To. Some cars you have to have the engine running in Park and check level. On cars with throttle cables, you can losen the cable to the gearbox (de-adjust) Yaris not sure? If you still have the problem look up Auto box Specialists in yellow pages and just ask the guys there. Have you asked Toyota dealer? Also is your car high mileage? R
  14. Look here on the same page.????? Chirp/squeak Noise On Idle
  15. Try just spraying the back of the belt as the engine is running. Dont need tooooo much as wd40 drys out moisture. If it still persits, you might need a new belt or could be something else. R
  16. In my opinion, and this is My opinion. The garage in question seems to have been grasping at straws. Water pump? Then head gasket? Fuel pump? All this seems to be a little unbeliveable. But, knowing as I do about anything mechanical, sometimes these things hapen. As blackcts says; I would have advised an engine right from the Headgasket stage. But that could well be hindsight. If removing the Cylinder head finds it is cracked, no q second hand engine specially at 100k. I think a Big Pow wow with the Boss of the garage is needed here. You cant just keep saying this has gone when the other items ie, fuel pump/waterpump were working before ok....? Good luck mate and now think of cutting your losses. Tell him to keep the car as payment, it cant be worth much now anyway. Go buy another car. R Ps. I dont mean to rubbish your car, but I hope as well as other guys on here you will be able to make an informed decision.
  17. Looking for a Deal on a new Yaris More than likely a D4D 5 door. SR or T-Spirit Any one knows of a good site. I have trawled through the net but prices still look high even with the vat reduced. Credit crunch? and prices still to high. R
  18. H E L P !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! __________________ Go get a Large Magnet from Tool shop or the like and Tie string to it. Lower it into the gutter and hopefully you just might be Lucky.
  19. I need an alternator for a Yaris D4D re 27060-33040 / 102211-2780 (i think its a 90amp one). do they really fail after only 30K thanks Lauras Dad. Laura's Dad. Take the Alt' to your local Auto electrical repairers and ask them to replace the bearings for you. I'm presuming it is the bearings gone! 50K on my D4d and still ok. Its just how things are. Ray
  20. Looks like it's been Snowing there...... Overwise, Looks ok to me. But wots happend to the rear doors?
  21. Laurars Dad, try taking off the drive belt and spinning the Alt' by hand. Does it still make the noise or feel rough. If you cant tell run engine after belt removal, only for a minuite does it still make the noise. R
  22. Hello Doom. Sorry Dom.... Yaris 1.4 D4D mine is a 2004 get 550 to the tank. Now approx £46. Norm about 500-575 so 60mpg plus. I have put 15" wheels on and find the car rides so much better than the 14" alloys. Seats 4 in relative comfort. Most times its just the 2 of us. So I didnt need a bigger car. Mind you I did come down from a Volvo V70 estate. Now dont miss it at all. The price of fuel back in 04 was high enough. Road tax £35. insurance £150 f/c 2 drivers. Go get one you will not be dissapointed. R
  23. 575. Regular get 550 if it drops below 530 I tell myself off!!!! Mind you it is a Diesel.
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