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Everything posted by Rayburn

  1. Thats the way to go, a Complete Clutch. No point in just replacing the bearing, its only 1 of 3 parts. If your Bearing is just noisy you can live with it. Some do go noisy but clutch depending on driver should last 70k. Price seems about right. Still need to shop around. Dont forget this is a gearbox out jobbie.
  2. [quote "I wouldn't use WD 40 myself Its a lubricant and will make the belt slip, like I wrote earlier put a bit of Talc on the belt...With engine off of course " Howard. Start engine and lightly spray the Auxiliary belt with the wd40. (not too much) My words are Not to much. There is no problem at all lubing the belt with wd40. This will drive out the dampness within the belt and stop it making a noise, If that is the problem. The idea is to determine what is causing the noise.... By lubing the belt you eliminate that item. But rest assured wd40 will not harm the belt. But Not too much.
  3. Just a tip. Before starting up in the morning. Lift bonnet. Be ready with a spray can of wd40. Start engine and lightly spray the Auxiliary belt with the wd40. (not too much) If it is the Belt making the noise this will change / stop immediately when spraying. It’s just the Damp causing the prob'.
  4. This part should last the life time of the complete clutch. Its non lubricating. Only way to get at it is gearbox out. Some times you can give it a squirt of lub through a hole but you then risk getting some lub on the clutch, not good. I have known some noisy bearing last for thousands of miles, they just make a noise. Dont slip the clutch so much in future..... R
  5. On my 1.4D4D it has the alloy wheels and larger tyres. Compared to my daughters 1.0Ltr T3 the handling is realy noticeably different. Buy yourself a set of Standard alloys and tyres, (T Spirit ) set pressures correctly and see/feel the difference. Unless of course you have a problem underneath the car, in which case get it checked out. R
  6. Quote; "amount of miles i can go until I need to refuel) " I would recconmend you use the fuel gauge. You will get to know how many miles you can get out of the tank by useing the Trip A and Trip B. When the Fuel gauge starts flashing, then refuel as soon as poss. Normaly 30/40 miles depending on how you drive. Or get a Diesel and fill up twice a year.......
  7. The D4D 1.4 currantly returning 550 miles to a tank of diesel. Yesterday £40 to fill. Road tax £35 a year. Insurance F/C £145 Cant get cheaper than that.. or can you?
  8. Buy an 05 yaris T spirit. They have a sunroof as standard.
  9. I note from some of your comments that the Brake Fluid should be changed at 2 year intervals. Also if you read most service books, (not necessarily Toyota), manufacturers recommend changing brake components. I.e. seals in cylinders and brake hoses, due to age degradation. Who of you have had those items changed whilst having your brake fluid changed? Normally nothing is done to these items until, MOT test shows it up, or you have a fluid leak from a cylinder. Yes I agree that B/F does absorb water. But let’s not go over board on this one item. Has any one on here had a brake failure due to water absorbing to the brake fluid? Under extreme conditions you might experience brake fad, but I doubt its down to the fluid, more like pad fad.. Take a look at your older cars. Have you had their fluid changed every 2 years? If you think that Toyota charge too much for this service, why not do it yourself. It’s not difficult, after all this is a Basic car, nothing hard on this job. So save £60 plus get the tools and save on next time round too. R
  10. On my 04 D4D I get 550 miles per tank. (over 60) Yes that is steady driving but not slow. On M ways and fast driving it drops to 58 mpg. On my dash the average MPH per run is only displayed.
  11. 05 yaris old shape. 28,000 miles As I go round sweeping bends about 55/65 mph, I get the floating sensation from the front suspension. More often than not from the near side front. If I hit a manhole this tends to show up even more. Not a deffinate knock, more of a weak S/a. I took car into mr T. Who test rode it, and had it on the ramp. Which was very nice of them.... Any way. The Service man/tester says, " we cant find any probs. If it happens again book it in and we will inspect the car. (thought you just did) BUT if we dont find anything wrong we will have to charge you for that".......!!!!!! Hello, I said that I get the floating sensation from the front suspension. At no time did I say the Shocker feels like its on the way out. So why didnt they suggest that.... Its not rocket science, that symtom is a weak Shock Absorber. Anyone have other thoughts. R
  12. Quote " today Quote " today i was just pumping my brake pedal when i noticed it was effecting the tick over? does any one else have this problem, or is it normal? Eeerrrr forgive me for being a little slow, But.... When he says " i was just pumping my brake pedal " Is not the SERVO unit operated by vacuum. The vacuum pick up pipe is on the Inlet side of the manifold. So Pumping the brakes will rob the manifold of air, causing the Engine to Hunt. This causes the revs to go up and down.... Switch off the Engine and Pump the pedal several times and you run out of Vacuum...pedal goes hard. Keep your foot on the brake pedal, start engine and the pedal will fall a little. This is NORMAL. R
  13. Quote " today i was just pumpin g my brake pedal when i noticed it was effecting the tick over? does any one else have this problem, or is it normal? Brake pedal, tick over??? when I'm slowing down my revs go up. Change down into 3rd for corners and roundabouts. 4,000rpm. Car slows, then back onto the throttle. Where does this tick over bit come in?
  14. No it wont. WD40 will help expel the water content of the belt. But I did say a little. As in a couple of slow spurts. R
  15. Mobil 1 Nought wrong with changing oil and filter regular. But Mobil 1 Its a Yaris mate. Not a Volvo..... Thats just a little over kill. trust me your paying for the name.
  16. Now, I wouldn't trust them to tie my shoes laces. Can anyone suggest a Yaris mechanic in Sussex that knows what they are doing? CW. As a Motor vehicle Technician and having ran my own motor repair shop, I would say without a doubt TAKE IT BACK. Speak Privately to the Workshop Manager. Tell him THE FACTS. Also it did not have this originally. Take the bill with you. Also independent bills of wheel balancing. Give him the opportunity to put the problem right....With the understanding its Without charge. If he says no, go to your local CAB. or solicitor ,ask him to do it with No gain no fee arrangement. But tell the Toyota manager what you intend to do. Along with, when the Facts are established you will make a report to the Local newspaper in his area. Copy also to Toyota GB. Sorry cant help more than that, but come to Devon I'll have a look. Lol.... PS. quote "they serviced, MOT'd, and replaced front tyres, discs, pads and Front anti roll bar bushes" Could be something simple like dirt under the disc where it sits on the hub. Making it Run out of true.
  17. BKR5EYA (2087) Spark plug for TOYOTA YARIS 1.0 (1SZ-FE) 3/1999 BKR5EYA-11 (2526) Spark plug for TOYOTA YARIS 1.3 (2NZ-FE) 9/1999 BKR5EYA-11 (2526) Spark plug for TOYOTA YARIS 1.5 (1NZ-FE) 3/2001 BKR5EYA-11 (2526) Spark plug for TOYOTA YARIS VERSO 1.3 (2NZ-FE) 1/2000 LOOK HERE. http://www.sparkplugsrus.com/shop/index.cg...mp;command=list
  18. MN. Squeak cn be cured by spraying a LITTLE WD40 on the belt. But I did saya LITTLE. Or if pos' clean out the grooves in the pulleys with emery cloth. Build up of rubber on the grooves sometimes makes things squeal. But try the WD40 first, with the engine running at idle. R
  19. Quote " You could also buy the same pads from Halfords at half the price - not similar, the same. Quite right AM. Plus on my newish Yaris you can look through the wheels and see BOSCH stamped on the pads. This along with other Genuine Toyota parts makea a mockery of use only Genuine. When changing your own oil and filter, do peeps on here use Genuine Toyota filter or another brand. Toyota do not Make oil. As already stated, they put in oil at a certain spec. R
  20. Aerial. Plus when you get just over the 100mph Everything makes a noise.
  21. Alan. Yes COMMA DIESEL LITE Used the oil for years in my garage. Good oil, not over priced. I've been round the oil factory at Graves end. Boy what an eye openner. Alan, is that 1 n or 2. Make TOYOTA Model Yaris 1.4 D4D Engine DT Year 2002-2006 Application Recommendation Capacity (ltr) Engine (DT) Recommended DIESEL LITE (t) 4.2 Alternative LITE (t) Manual Transmission SX 75W90 GL-4 1.9 Automatic Transmission Differential From Gearbox Coolant (50%) XSTREAM GREEN 4.5 Wheel Bearings MULTIPURPOSE LITHIUM GREASE No.2 Brake Fluid DOT 4 ESP
  22. .daiwa Quite honestly Don’t bother. These need to be removed regularly and re-oiled. When I did think of doing it, I had 2 supplied that did not fit correctly. The filter is at least an inch too short. They say, not to worry. Rubbish. Clean your Original one out by knocking against the wall and Hoover it, get all the little bits out. Unless someone comes along and tells you that you will get 10 more bhp, and 20 more mpg. Yea right
  23. Mr P DIY. Go buy a Toyota oil filter. 5 ltrs of Coma Deisel Light Semi Synthetic. From your local Motorfactors.
  24. Quote; "Your car tax is a really good price and the bike tax for that engine size is not bad. I dont see what the problem is? The bike has only 2 wheels. Its a Kawasaki ZRX1200 120bhp. How can they charge more for a two wheeled bike than a four wheeled car?? Beats me. Still £50 a year I'll have that. By the way. Last 2 fill ups 64mpg. That wasnt hanging around either. (D4D)not the bike.
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