Stevie J

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About Stevie J

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  • First Name
    Steve
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Staffordshire

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  1. Sounds like possibly the thrust bearing (release bearing) is dry - did the mechanic replace this bearing when he did the clutch plate replacement? Usually it makes sense to replace the thrust bearing when you have the clutch replaced. If the noise was not there before the clutch was replaced, then it cant be coming from the gearbox input shaft bearing, or you'd have heard this before the clutch was done. My advice would be to contact the mechanic and ask about this noise, and if he did indeed replace the thrust bearing.
  2. I tried Meguiars PlastRX on mine, less than a tenner for a bottle from Halfrauds - ideally it needs to be applied on a sponge attached to a drill, but as I dont have one, I rubbed it on and buffed it with a cloth. Takes a lot of rubbing and buffing, and just about removes enough of the fogging to get the car through the MOT, but the fogging usually comes back quite quickly, and every year, gets worse as the fogging proceeds to go from the top of the headlights, further down toward the bumper. Mk1 and early mk2 models are really bad for headlight plastics going foggy. The plastic surface seems to get permanently damaged by the sun. Yaris is not the only car to have this issue, it affects a lot of older cars with plastic lenses. Aftermarket headlight units are about £100 to £150 each, and if your car fails its MOT for excessive deterioration of the lenses adversely affecting the beam pattern, they will probably have to be replaced.
  3. Stevie J

    Idle speed

    Its about right - previously to my current car, I owned a 1999 1.0 Yaris which also used to idle very slowly when the engine was up to operating temperature, it would sit at about 600rpm, and often I used to think it was going to stall, but it never did, in the 5 years I owned it. There was also vibration through the steering column and other parts of the cabin when the car would idle down to 600rpm, and I would see the rev counter drop to halfway between 0 and 1000 rpm. You could try checking the air fliter is clean, but unless the car has done high mileage (over 80 - 100K miles) I wouldnt be inclined to mess about with the MAF, as they are easily damaged by people that dont know what they are doing, and they are difficult to clean correctly. Usually a faulty MAF would cause very rough idling and frequent stalling, and would be likely to set a fault code in the ECU and light up the Engine management light (the orange light on the dash in the shape of an engine). So unless the car has such an irregular idle that makes it often stall, then I would be inclined to live with the issue.
  4. Stevie J

    My toyota

    You say its Auto and manual - it cant be both, being a mk 2 Yaris its either a manual or a Multi Mode Transmission (MMT). I know on the manual there is a clutch pedal switch which enables the starter to turn over, in that you have to have the clutch pedal pushed firmly to the floor in order to start the car. If the switch on the clutch pedal is faulty of out of adjustment, this might cause the starter not to turn over when the key is turned to start the car, even if the clutch is fully pressed down. I think the MMT transmission has to be in "P" to be able to start the car, and again, there must be some kind of switch or sensor on the gear lever to tell the ECU the car is in "P". Not that sure otherwise, as I dont have much knowledge of the MMT transmission other than they are pretty unreliable, and prone to failure.
  5. When I first got my 1999 1.0 CDX (in 2011 that was), I had issues with the tyres going down, and not just on one wheel either. The CDX and T spirit Mk1 Yaris used the same type of alloy wheels from the start, in 1999 up to late in the Mk1 run, and these tended to corrode and allow leaks round the rims. as the wheels on my CDX were quite corroded, I chose to replace the wheels entirely with new alloys, but it sounds like your wheels were the same type as the ones I had. In which case what you had done would likely sort the issue on the wheel that was losing pressure, but other wheels could well cause the same issues if they are also corroded. The picture was of my Yaris taken back in 2011, showing the type of wheel that I had problems with. Now I own a Mk2 and it has steel wheels - much less problem with them losing pressure - just not as nice to look at.
  6. I'd say it was a dirty or faulty Mass Airflow sensor (MAF sensor), which is in the throttle body behind the airfilter box. When these sensors go faulty or get dirty, the car will run erratically, and not idle properly - often the orange engine shaped Malfunction Indicator Light on the dashboard will come on and a fault code stored (the MIL). It is difficult to clean the MAF sensor and they are fragile inside too, and it may be that the MAF must be replaced altogether. They will be likely to be expensive too.
  7. The exhaust can be very expensive depending on what parts need replacing. The factory fit exhaust has the front catalytic converter as part of the manifold (called a maniverter). These hardly ever need replacing. Below the maniverter, the front and mid section are all one piece, and comprise a second catalytic converter and centre silencer box, this section joins to the rear section just in front of the rear axle. The rear section goes over the axle and contains the rear muffler and tailpipe. Usually the first section to fail will be the rear muffler, as mine did 3 years ago (I have a 2006 Yaris as well). The muffler broke off the pipe at the welded joint and dropped down onto the road, broke off the rear rubber mount and was left behind in the road. It went with a huge bang as it hit the bodywork under the rear bumper. I replaced the rear section myself and the part of exhaust needed was about £60, but it is a pain to do with rusty fixings and they dont supply the bolts and springs to connect to the centre section. Having Kwik Fit to do this job would have been over £100 for the backbox alone. The centre section can appear to rust quite badly on the section under the rear seats, where it connects to the rear section, but unless it is blowing, replacement is not necessary, as the centre section has to be cut with a saw between the front cat and the centre silencer, and the replacement section will not come with the front cat. This job is best left to a garage to do, and would likely be over £100 also. If the front cat (under the engine bay) fails, this is where things get expensive - I dont know off the top of my head what a new one would cost, but to have the cat replaced at a garage would likely be well over £250. So the complete system from the maniverter to the backbox could set you back over £400 fitted. My car still has the original exhaust bar the back box - as i say, corrosion on the exhaust is common, you only need to worry when you hear the exhaust start blowing, but then you need to get it sorted quite quickly, as the rear section can fall down onto the road, due to not being well supported at the front of the muffler, The break is usually the point where the pipe and muffler meet. Corrosion of springs is common on old Yaris - my last Yaris (Mk1, 1999 CDX) had advisories for this every year, but they only fail if they are fractured or broken, so corrosion will almost always be just an advisory unless the spring is damaged. The same goes for shock absorbers - corroded is common, but they will only fail if they fail to have any damping effect usually when they leak. Corrosion of the front arms also common - but again not a failure unless there is excessive play in the rubber bushes within the arm (also called a wishbone). It is not that expensive to replace a wishbone if it does fail an MOT, but just because it is corroded does not mean an automatic MOT fail. The real areas for concern on a Yaris where corrosion is concerned is the inner and outer sills, inner rear wheel arches and the underbody chassis and suspension mounting points at the rear of the car - once corrosion sets in here, it progresses quickly, and if its not addressed, it will result in a failure of the MOT, and it can be expensive if large areas of rotted bodywork need cutting out and new areas of metal welded in. Many cars over 10 years old can fail MOTs for corrosion in these areas, so not just a Yaris issue.
  8. Replacing alternator bearings is not something I would recommend unless you know what you are doing, ie, you have the correct bearing pullers and can obtain the correct bearings, for which you would need to know the bearing code, for both sets of bearings. There is also the carbon brushes that would likely also need replacing. Obtaining a re-manufactured alternator would be a better solution for which I would do a search online to find a supplier for the best price. Some require you to send the old alternator back to them. Euro Car Parts list alternators for the 1.0 2002 Yaris but they are around £200, but you can get 40% off using a discount code so they are actually about £120 plus a refundable surcharge when they get your old alternator back. You can get an exhaust manifold from ebay for about 50 quid (used). New manifolds would likely be a dealer only part, so second hand would be the way to go on such an old car. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-99-03-TOYOTA-YARIS-1-0-VVTI-VVT-I-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-W-NEW-GENUINE-GASKET/321691097460?hash=item4ae6489974%3Ag%3Ac1YAAOSwhYJcQgUs&LH_ItemCondition=3000|7000 Alternators also available on ebay for around the £130 mark: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alternator-Fits-Toyota-Vitz-1-0-Yaris-1-0-99-06/202439993511?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota|Model%3AYaris%2FVitz|Cars+Type%3A1.0&hash=item2f225d28a7:g:TssAAOSwU1hbn59z
  9. That sounds like the alternator bearings are failing to me. If it was the water pump bearing that was failing, the car would usually leak water from the water pump, and it would be obvious running down the side of the block and dripping out of the bottom of the engine bay. The exhaust manifold is also blowing, I can hear it when the car is revved up, and this is a common problem on the early mk1 with no aircon, as the front of the engine is open to the rain and spray blowing in through the grille, and it rusts the manifold out. The fact that there is exhaust paste on the manifold shows it has obviously been blowing badly and someone has attempted to patch it up, but it has not worked as the exhaust is still blowing. As the manifold is blowing, this could well affect the operation of the front o2 sensor which is located downstream of the manifold. The proper solution for this issue is to replace the exhaust manifold and its gasket.
  10. Kwik Fit regassed my ac in early March when the car went in for MOT. After it was done the ac was really good - for about a week, and then I noticed it getting less effective, and after 3 weeks, it had stopped working altogether, so that was that, a waste of money having it re-gassed. Later, when I had the bonnet up checking the oil and water levels, I noticed a pool of fluid under the drivers side of the bottom of the radiator and thought It might have a leak, but no, it was fluid that had been dripping from the AC coupling where the pipe meets the condenser at the bottom. So the seals have failed in that coupling and caused the gas and pressure to leak out. Kwik Fit's machine did not find that leak, and it was obvious that it was there before, as the AC had not been working when I asked them to re-gas it. They said the machine tests for leaks and if none are found, it fills the system with gas and lubricant. In general, every car over 10 years old that I have owned that has had AC fitted, the AC did not work properly, and now I am just fed up with wasting money having old AC systems re-gassed only for it to leak out again. The car will not be getting repaired as I suspect it will cost me a fortune to get an ac specialist to repair it.
  11. Stevie J

    Yaris problem

    Going on what I've read about this, its highly likely to indicate a timing problem caused by a worn or stretched timing chain, so that the expected (by the ecu) camshaft position does not correspond to the current position of the crankshaft. High mileage engines or engines that have had a poor oil change history are more likely to wear their timing chains due to contaminants in dirty oil. Engines with timing chains such as ours, need a regular oil change interval and I usually do mine every 6000 miles to prevent chain wear. Buying any second hand Yaris with higher mileage is risky without a verified oil change history, and any engine making a metallic rattling at idle from the drivebelt pulley end of the engine would mean I would certainly walk away. Replacing a worn timing chain would not be a cheap job unfortunately.
  12. Every car battery has a finite lifespan, which is on average, 4 years, after which most are on borrowed time, and after 5 - 6 years will be at the point of being unreliable. At 5 years old, your Yaris will probably still have the original factory fit Varta battery (I say this as my mother has a Dec 2014 Yaris 1.33) and this will be in need of replacement, especially if the car is now not being driven very much so it can recharge sufficiently. All cars these days use battery power even when they are not running to keep the ancilliary electronics functioning, such as the ecu, remote central locking etc, so if you have an old battery, it cannot take much time before it loses enough charge to drop below the point needed to start the car. If the car is being kept in a garage, I would firstly replace the battery (about £100) and then use a battery charger / maintainer to keep the battery topped up during the time the car is not being used. If the car is on a driveway, you can just take the charger out to it once a week and leave it on for about 10 hours to keep the battery charge up. Its important that even a new battery is kept top up charged every week if the car is not being used, as a period of a month or so of the car not being started can often discharge a fully charged battery.
  13. I had Kwik Fit re-gas my 2006 Yaris earlier this month while it was having its MOT. They said they wouldnt go ahead with the re-gas if the machine detected a leak in the system. Nevertheless they did do it and the a/c was wonderful - for a week or so, and then it started getting less cold out of the vents, and now its not working at all. Wasted 30 quid having it done. I had a look in the engine bay yesterday, and saw a load of fluid all sitting in the drip tray under the radiator, at the end nearest the drivebelt. Turns out the a/c pipe joint to the condenser on that side of the engine is leaking, and is wet with fluid when I put my fingers under it. So it doesnt always follow that having it done by the professionals is going to be successful as obviously the a/c recharging machine they use does not always detect slow leaks in the system. Every car I have owned over 10 years old has had problems with the a/c not working, so I think that as mine is now 14 years old, I will just deem the a/c as useless and not bother with it. A/c is just too unreliable in older cars unless you pay a fortune to have the entire system and its seals overhauled.
  14. Also, check to see if the engine management warning light (MIL) is on (its a yellow warning light in the picture of an engine), as if it is, then there could be a problem with the engine's sensors causing the engine to run too rich, causing a strong exhaust smell. A blowing exhaust in front of the cat can often also turn on the MIL.
  15. It could be the exhaust is blowing somewhere near the front of the car, or even the manifold has rusted through into a hole, which does affect Mk1 models where the manifold is on the front of the engine and is subjected to water spray coming through the front grille, allowing gases to enter the car through the ventilation system. Usually this would mean the car becomes very noisy, or has a loud ticking noise on hard acceleration which is a good indication that the manifold has become holed. In cold weather, exhaust gases do smell strong from the exhaust in the first 30 seconds or so after a cold start of the engine, as the fuel mixture is enriched and the catalytic converter does not function to clean the exhaust gas until it heats up to working temperature. In general though, any strong smells of exhaust gas in the cabin would indicate a hole in the exhaust, or some other damage to it, allowing the gases to escape but this would usually be heard as a loud blowing noise when revving the car, and the louder the noise, the further towards the front of the car that the exhaust is failing. If the manifold has developed a rusty hole, this would usually be heard as a loud ticking or clicking from the front of the engine on hard acceleration, as it would usually only be the noise from one particular cylinder on its exhaust stroke - but you would still be able to smell the escaping gases if they are drawn into the ventilation system. If you are in any doubt about the exhaust system, dont take the risks, take the car to a garage like Kwik Fit and ask them to check the whole exhaust system as you can smell fumes in the cabin.