Stevie J

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About Stevie J

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  1. The early model Mk1 1.0 had quite a common issue with the exhaust manifold itself rusting through, being on the front of the engine and exposed to water coming through the front of the car when driving, these thin metal manifolds were prone to rusting and the individual pipes running from the block to the downpipe flange could actually rust through, and you'd get the blowing noise. I would check the manifold carefully across all its pipes for holes, and if it is rusted through, then you;ll need a new manifold. The Mk1 1.0 does not have a manifold cat (maniverter) as in newer models, so the manifold is not as expensive to replace.
  2. My mother has a December 2014 (64 plate) 1.33 Icon and hers has filament bulb type front daytime driving lights as well. It also has standard filament bulbs for the rear lights as well. Only some higher spec models had the LED daytime driving lights front and LED tail lights at the rear.
  3. It was quiet at first following the belt replacement, which I had to remove the engine mounting to do as well, so not that simple a job. After a few weeks the chirping noise on cold starts returned, and I then thought it might be the idler pulley bearings, on the idler that the back side of the belt wraps round, so I loosened the belt to check the pulley and it seemed to have small amount of play, but as I couldnt remove the engine mount to remove the pulley to replace it without a load of hassle, I took car to garage to replace the idler, and garage told me they didnt replace it as they couldnt find a problem with it and car only had 24000 miles on the clock at the time, so the pulley would be unlikely to be the cause of the noise. They did spray belt dressing on the belt and this quieted it down for a short while, but the noise soon came back. Along with the fussy clutch with its very low biting point, which these cars also seem prone to, squeeking belt drives on the early mk 2 models seem another common issue. As long as the noise doesnt get worse, or the water pump starts leaking, I was told to just live with the issue as a quirk of the model. I've been less impressed with the Mk2 over my old early Mk1 1999 1.0CDX which I feel was a better car.
  4. I checked my 2006 1.3 and it does not have a decoupler pulley on the alternator, its just as standard multi-V pulley. The car has only got 30K miles on it and has never had the alternator changed so this is how it would have come out of the factory. It does not have an automatic belt tensioner either, the tension is set by moving the alternator back and forth and locking it in position, then fine adjusting the tension manually using a small spanner on an adjuster bolt on the alternator mounting bracket, with a final tightening up of the mounting. The belt on my car is not loose and appears correctly tensioned and the belt was replaced 6000 miles ago to try to cure the chirping noise I get every time the car is started from cold, which dissappears as the engine warms up. Fitting a new belt did not solve the squeeking and chirping issue, it still does it and I just have to put up with it now, as it doesn't appear to cause any damage to the belt. I think there is a slight misalignment of the belt pulleys causing slight slippage when cold, and moreso when cold and damp weather, as it doesnt do it as much in the summer months.
  5. My 2006 1.3 Yaris does this as well, its more pronounced if I have the drivers window open, and worse when the engine is cold. Usually comes when in second gear or third gear at 1500 - 2000RPM with accelerator pedal pressed, often coming out of sharp bends when I have to slow down and then speed up again but without changing down gears. My drivebelt also squeeks and chirps when starting the engine from cold also, and I am wondering if this rattling has anything to do with the pulleys on the serpentine belt of which there are 2 idlers, and maybe one of them is worn and rattles when cold. I've replaced the drivebelt before and this did not cure the issue, although I did feel slight wear on the upper idler pulley, above the crankshaft pulley, that the back of the belt passes over. I took it to a garage to investigate but he said the pulleys were fine and it was a "misalignment" issue causing belt noise, and it was common on Mk2 Yaris models, and not to worry about it.
  6. I used to have a 1.0 Mk1 and it would only do about 38mpg urban mpg. It was better on a longer run and could achieve over 50mpg in those cases, but for stop start driving round town, then 38 - 40mpg is all that can be expected. My 1.3 that I have now is lucky to get 33mpg used for urban driving. The loud noise when pressing the accelerator could be the exhaust blowing, and this would cause loss of power and increased fuel consumption too.
  7. The fuel filler pipe from the tank to the filler door flap, is very prone to damage on the Mk1 as it has no shielding from the spray from the rear wheel. On the Mk2 this was improved by a plastic shield being fitted to the rear of the wheel so you can no longer diectly see the fuel filler pipe by looking into the rear wheel arch. On my Mk1, the first hint there was an issue was the smell of petrol fumes at times when standing round the rear of the car, especially when it was parked in a garage. There are 2 pipes side by side, the main filler pipe and a smaller diameter breather pipe that runs behind it, and the top of the breather pipe where it enters the main pipe at the very top, behind the fuel filler flap compartment, was where it was completely rusted through, with most of the pipe actually gone completely, totally eaten away with corrosion. We could only obtain a new filler neck pipe with its integrated breather pipe from Toyota's spares dept at that time, and from what I remember it was about £75, and that was back in 2010, so I imagine they will be a good deal more expensive nowadays. I do remember when we fitted the new pipe, we painted it with underseal to try to preserve it, as its unprotected location, exposed to spray and road debris being thrown all over it from the rear wheel, means its not going to stay corrosion free for very long. The one other area I remember now that was an issue was the rubber connector between the main body of the car and the tailgate, which carries the cabling into the tailgate from the roof of the car - this was forever popping out of its housing in the rear of the car's roof , and it lets water into the subsequent hole if it pops out, so we ended up using silicone sealant round it to hold it in position. The same type of rubber connector is also on the Mk2, but so far this has not been an issue on my current car. The photo shows the tailgate open, and the rubber connector can be seen at the top right of the picture - where it joins to the car's roof is where we found it kept pulling out, and had to be sealed in to prevent water ingress. Another area we had issues with was corrosion of the factory alloy wheels, the type as shown on the pic below - this lead to a poor seal between tyre and rim, and we had issues with tyres losing pressure on a regular basis, meaning we ended up replacing the wheels with aftermarket alloys. My current model does not have alloys, just steel wheels with plastic trims, which are also corroding, but as yet dont lose pressure from the tyres.
  8. It may have been that the early Jap built Yaris Mk1 models (99 - 01) were not rustproofed as well as the later French built models from 2002 onwards. Any Mk1 with a VIN number starting JTD will be a jap built model, and VNK will be French built. It seems that even on the Mk2, the area in the inner rear wheel arch just in front of the wheel forms a dirt and moisture trap, so I imagine this will be an early failure point for corrosion if any of the undersealing fails there. Its one area I keep my eye on with my current 06 model, but as yet there is no evidence of holes or weak spots forming there like they did on my 99 Yaris. On looking further on my 06 Yaris, on the inner sill areas and along the bottoms of the sills where the jacking points are, there is evidence of light rust forming. It also appears to have a fair amount of corrosion on the rear suspension crossmember, springs, and other areas around the suspension mounting points on the back of the car, so I may have to get under it during the summer and paint some underseal on, before that slight corrosion becomes MOT failure type corrosion. I guess at 13 years old, I must expect some corrosion, even though there is only 30,000 miles on my current car. Compared to a Nissan Micra Mk2 and Citreon Saxo I used to own, they really were rot boxes underneath and severe corrosion affected the sills and chassis underneath them, the Yaris is pretty good where corrosion is concerned, but I dont think any car is immune from underbody corrosion after the age of 10 years old.
  9. Strange that is, as I have a 2006 Mk 2 Yaris with 30K genuine miles on clock (it was my mother's before I owned it, and she rarely used it), and there is only light surface rust on the underside, and on the usual suspension parts, but no evidence of severe corrosion, and this car is 13 years old now. On my previous Yaris Mk1, a 1999 T plate CDX, it failed the MOT with severe corrosion all down the rear sills and the inner wheel arches on the rear, with massive holes caused by corrosion, and that car had 65K miles on it at the time, being 14 years old, I also had to replace a rusted out fuel filler neck pipe which also had massive holes in it at the top caused by severe corrosion. so Mk1 Yaris models can suffer from bad corrosion. The photos below are of my 1.0 CDX when it failed its MOT and the areas that had failed - all on the rear sills and inner wheel arches.
  10. When I had my April 1999 1.0 CDX, that had fluid power steering , as the pump for this was at the top of the engine on the left, and driven by the serpentine drivebelt that I had to replace once, needing the longer drivebelt with it also having A/C. Later Mk1 cars had the power steering pump deleted and EPS installed. As far as I was lead to understand, the Jap built models (JTD serial VIN numbers) from 1999 - 2000 had fluid pumped power steering, with most later models 2001 onwards built in France (VNK serial VIN numbers) having electric motor assisted steering (EPS) Attached is a photo of my old 1999 Yaris, showing the power steering fluid reservoir on the left of the engine bay, at the front, with the round black plastic filler cap clearly visible.
  11. I assume its the 1.33 engine with start stop technology, as opposed to the older 1.3 engine fitted to earlier Mk2 Yaris models like my own? The older 1.3 had an issue with water pump failures from what I read, and so did the 1.0 3 cylinder engines, with failures anywhere from upwards of 40K miles. My own 1.3 (currently on 30K miles) has had issues with constant squeeking and chirping from the serpentine drivebelt from cold starts, and new belt has not cured the issue, suspected caused by pulley misalignment, so listen out for the drivebelt being noisy, in addition to any water pump rattle. Check the clutch works as it should and there is no crunching between gears, and reverse can be selected easily from neutral with the engine idling. Earlier 1.3 models with manual gearboxes can be a problem with the clutch not completely disengaging from the flywheel, causing gear change difficulties, but this may have been modified by the 2010 model year, which would be a pretty late Mk2. Headlights seem to get prone to the clear plastic lenses getting cloudy and opaque from the tops which spreads further down the lenses as it progresses, I know my own car has this problem and it has to have the headlights rubbed down with Meguiars PlastRX every year before the MOT to try to make the lenses less opaque. Sun damage seems to be the cause of headlight lens cloudiness, and I see a fair few older Mk2 Yaris with dreadfully cloudy headlights - new ones are very costly, even for aftermarket units, and they can fail an MOT if they are really badly deteriorated. Check the exhaust back box is not blowing, as the pipe can fracture just in front of the connection to the back box, and this causes the back box to fall down onto the road when you are driving, and cause damage to the mountings and possibly to the rear bumper, as the tail pipe can damage it if the back box falls down onto the road. The Mk2 cabin plastics can rattle which is annoying when driving along, but then again, many cars have rattly interiors, so not unique to the Yaris Mk2 As regards rust, the Mk2 seems pretty good on this front, but the first signs of rusting usually start under the car on the rear inner sills and on the rear suspension components, so always do an underside body check, although a 2010 model should not have exenstive corrosion underneath, unless its high mileage.
  12. My last Yaris, a 1999 Mk1 1.0 CDX had horrendous clutch judder when setting off from stationary in first gear, especially from a cold start in the morning, the whole car would judder badly when taking up biting point on the clutch, and it was like this for all 5 years that I owned that car, between 54K and 70K miles. It never seemed to get any worse, and I just lived with it, as I think in damp weather, moisture gets on the clutch plates and causes the judder, or it could even be oil contamination, I never knew the reason for it, it was just something the car seemed to suffer with. My current Yaris does it very slightly in damp weather after a cold start, and can often suffer with clutch drag when the transmission gets hot, whereby the clutch pedal has to be absolutely mashed into the carpet in order to get it in gear, or to change smoothly. I think the early Mk2 manual trans models did seem to have a trait where the biting point is very low on the pedal and often the clutch plate does not completely free off from the flywheel fully unless the clutch pedal is completely to the floor. This was an issue highlighted by Honest John in his Yaris Mk2 review, about how the clutches on early mk2 manual models can sometimes not fully disengage and lead to difficult gear changes or crunching into reverse from neutral, due to the dragging clutch plate not quite fully releasing from the flywheel.
  13. Its been some time since I had to do that repair, as I did it around 2011, but from what I remember, I offered the new centre pipe up to the existing system, to determine the exact location I needed to cut through the original cat to centre box section,, and then I dropped the whole exhaust from the manifold down, and sawed through the pipe off the car, using a hack saw. Then I mounted the front section with cat back on the car, and slid the new centre pipe onto it, with some exhaust paste round the joint, and then clamped it with a U clamp. The flared connector on the new centre pipe should slide over the old pipe quite snugly. A couple of years later, the new centre pipe failed again at the rear flange joint, in the same place, so I had to replace the same part all over again, as the pattern part centre pipe is nowhere near as good quality as the original fit system that lasted about 12 years before it failed. 2 years ago the original rear box on my 2006 Mk2 1.3 T3 failed at the weld joint where the centre pipe meets the back box (it rotted through, all the way round), and the back box dropped down onto the road, dragging along under the car - its a worse design on the Mk2 than on the Mk1 if the back box pipe joint (facing the middle of the car) does fail, so anyone with a Mk2, if your back box starts blowing, dont ignore it, as if the pipe weld breaks or rusts through, the back box will drop down at the front and drag on the road, causing damage to the rubber hangers and deforming the plastic rear bumper.
  14. I had this happen on the 1999 Mk1 1.0 CDX I used to own, and the break was in the exact same place, on centre pipe side of the flange weld, it rusted through and snapped clean off. I had to buy a centre section without cat, and then saw through the original pipe shortly after the original cat, and join the cat section to the new section by sliding one into the other and using a U clamp to secure the joint. The bolts and springs on the back box connector flange can be a !Removed! to undo as well so you might need to order 2 bolts in case you shear the old ones off. The link below is a complete system for the 99 - 02 Yaris 1.0, that you can buy in individual parts, with a diagram showing the bolts you need for the back joint flange (ONB009) , and the U clamp (ONC042S). You need the centre section (TOY3005) which is a good price (£29.58), but doesn't include the underfloor cat, which is separate (TOY1008H).
  15. I had my old Yaris, a 1999 1.0 CDX fail the MOT more than once, on severe corrosion, and it needed extensive welding doing to remedy the situations. It first needed welding at 14 years old, and at that time had only covered about 60K miles. The areas failed first were the rear outer sills, where the nearside had rust that went through the sill under the back door, towards the back of the sill, near the wheel arch. The follwoing year the inner wheel arches rotted through, just above the join to the rear sills on both sides of the car, and these needed extensive cutting out of the rotten through areas and welding of new metal. I had a failure for the petrol filler pipe rotting through and allowing fumes to escape and water to get into the fuel tank, as the filler neck on the Mk1 is metal and unshielded, and they rot through towards the top, so that had to be replaced as well. Most of the advisories for rust on that car were all involving the rear section of the underside, - sills, inner wheel arches, suspension mounting prescribed areas, and they can, and will, rot through. My 13 year old 06 plate current Yaris has never failed for rust - yet, but is due its next MOT in 2 weeks.