Stevie J

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About Stevie J

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  • First Name
    Steve
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Staffordshire

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  1. I have the same issue with my 2006 Mk2. They all go like it, and its sun damage and oxidation of the outside of the plastic lens. They start deteriorating from the tops of the lens, and it progresses downwards over time to affect the whole headlight lens. The Mk1 models also do it, as my last car had the same issue. I find that using Meguiars Plast RX which you can get from Halfords, and plenty of rubbing and buffing can improve the lens, but to do it properly a buffing pad on an electiic drill is better. If the deterioration of the lens is bad enough, the car can fail its MOT, but usually, light deterioration and fogging of the lens will get an advisory.
  2. Stevie J

    Ticking noise

    Mk1 Yaris 1.0 models were prone to the exhaust manifolds rusting through, and making the characteristic ticking noise on hard accelleration. The location of the manifold on the front of the engine, and the design of the radiator meant that rain and moisture come through from the front and rust the manifold. 1.0 Cars with AC seem less afffected as the AC condensor helped stop water coming in from the front grille. I used to have a 1.0 1999 Mk1 and the manifold was fairly rusty on that, but as it had AC, it never got so bad that holes developed. In short, cars with the small diameter manifolds such as the one pictured (my old car), on 1.0 engines, tend to rust through, and this is likely what has happened to your car, so if this is the case, the manifold will need to be replaced, or taken to a garage to see if it can be welded.
  3. Yes, make sure any mats are removed from behind the clutch pedal, because anything that stops the clutch pedal making it 100% of the way to the floor of the footwell could cause the clutch plate and flywheel not to completely disengage. As said, the biting point is so low that it can make a difference just that fraction of an inch of extra padding on the floor (ie, car mats), to whether the flywheel is disengaged enough from the clutch plate to enable changing gear without as much resistance. Diligence must be made to ensure that clutch pedal is FULLY depressed as far as it will physically go, with no mats under it, every time you change gear, especially getting into first from neutral, or reverse from neutral. I find the problem to be worse on damp days, or when the transmission is hot - some days the clutch can be worse than others, and I notice baulking going from first into second, and neutral into first, even with the clutch pedal fully down. I hate the transmissions in the Mk2, and on my Mk1, it had a fairly high biting point, and on my mother's mk3 (2014 1.3) the biting point is much higher too, so its definitely a Mk2 model issue.
  4. Mine does exactly the same. Seems its a common issue with early mk2 manual transmission cars. Clutch pedal biting point is far too low, but its been like it since I had it, and seems the slave cylinder doesnt quite push out far enough. I bled the hydraulic system to the slave, and still the same issue. Honest John highlighted this as an issue as well in his reviews, where clutch does not always completely disengage the drive when fully depressed and it seems its juts a design flaw. I have to just put up with mine now, and make sure the clutch is mashed into the carpet when changing gear. Getting reverse without crunching it needs a bit of time and patience.
  5. Let us know what you find - when you think how often that clutch switch is operated, every time you change gear pressing the clutch pedal, it would be of little surprise that it could one day fail, just like the brake light switch can, resulting in the brake lights not working, or being on all the time if the switch sticks open. The clutch pedal switch is effectively part of the starter motor circuit, and if it becomes intermittently faulty, the starter would, as you make out, sometimes not operate, but sometimes still work. Of course, if the switch and its wiring test out OK, then the starter solenoid could well be failing, and in that case, the starter motor would need attention, or replacement.
  6. Mine, a petrol 1.3 sometimes takes a good 70 - 80 miles before the first segment dissappears from the fuel gauge from the full mark. Depends on if you filled the tank to the very brim, or stopped when the pump cut off operated, after which you can usually get another couple of litres in to fill the tank to the top of the filler neck. If the tank was brim filled and then the car was taken on a long run without stopping, it could on a diesel very well exceed 100 miles before the tank went low enough for the gauge to ;lose one segment. I would not worry about it unless its not moved after doing another 30 - 50 miles.
  7. It may be a faulty clutch pedal switch. On the Mk2 manual models, you have to have the clutch pedal fully down before the starter will engage. If the pedal switch becomes faulty or out of adjustment, full depression of the clutch pedal may not engage the switch, and the starter will not engage when the key is turned. Checking the switch for correct function is the first thing I would do. Its located at the top of the clutch pedal under the dashboard, and operates only when the pedal is fully depressed.
  8. The mk1 Yaris (1999 - 2005) did not have CVT transmission, it was a bog standard 4 speed automatic transmission. CVT automatic was not offered until the Mk3 came out after 2011. The Mk2 (2006 - 2011) used a semi automatic that was very unreliable, and this was dropped when the mk3 came out. One of the first things to check would be the level of the automatic transmission fluid, which should have its own dipstick, usually sticking out of the transmission housing, separate from the engine oil dipstick. Most automatics require the fluid to be tested with the engine running and the transmission warm, and in "N", where the level should be between the min and max marks. Its not s good idea to read the automatic transmission fluid level with the engine off, as it could give a false reading. Many problems with automatics can be resolved simply by making sure the transmission has clean fluid at the correct level, and the fluid should be changed at regular service intervals, much like the engine oil would be, but many owners never bother to change the transmission fluid, allowing it to get dirty and burnt. If the level is OK, than check the engine management light is not on, as if it is, then it could indicate a problem with the engine somewhere, causing the intermittent lack of power, even something like a dirty MAF sensor could cause lumpy idle and poor acceleration. if the level of the fluid is correct and its clean and smells OK, and there is no enigine management light on on the dashboard, then the problem may be with the torque converter or the transmission itself, in which case, it would be a case of taking the car to a transmission specialist, for a transmission check and repair, although, on a 2000 car, this would probably be so expensive it would not be worth it. If the transmission fluid is very low, then there could be a leak on the transmission somewhere - I'm not sure if the 1.3 Yaris Auto uses a transmission oil cooler, but if it does, this could be leaking, or its associated hoses and connectors may be leaking.
  9. The clutch pedal biting point is very low indeed on my 2006 1.3 Mk2. The car has only done 30K miles, and when I got the car I thought the hydraulic system had air in it for the pedal to bite so low down to the floor. Sometimes, the biting point can be so low, that it can be a pain to get it in reverse without grinding the gears, due to the clutch plate not 100% freeing from the flywheel with the clutch pedal fully to the floor. It seems this issue is "normal" for the mk2 Yaris, as its been highlighted on Honest John, where others have suggested that the clutch does not always compelety disengage the drive from the flywheel, and has a certain amount of difficulty getting gear changes without the pedal being mashed into the carpet. I have tried bleeding clutch hydraulic circuit and this has had no effect the the low biting point, which is almost as if the slave cylinder piston just does not seem to push out far enough to completely move the pressure plate away from the flywheel, and there always seems to be a very slight element of drag on the clutch. Over the 3 years I have had the car, the issue has got no worse, and I guess I have learned to live with it, and take time over gear changes, as first to second can be troublesome if it is attempted too quickly. My mk1 I used to have, had 70K miles on it and the biting point was much higher up the pedal, so it took some getting used to the finnicky clutch on the mk2.
  10. The early model Mk1 1.0 had quite a common issue with the exhaust manifold itself rusting through, being on the front of the engine and exposed to water coming through the front of the car when driving, these thin metal manifolds were prone to rusting and the individual pipes running from the block to the downpipe flange could actually rust through, and you'd get the blowing noise. I would check the manifold carefully across all its pipes for holes, and if it is rusted through, then you;ll need a new manifold. The Mk1 1.0 does not have a manifold cat (maniverter) as in newer models, so the manifold is not as expensive to replace.
  11. My mother has a December 2014 (64 plate) 1.33 Icon and hers has filament bulb type front daytime driving lights as well. It also has standard filament bulbs for the rear lights as well. Only some higher spec models had the LED daytime driving lights front and LED tail lights at the rear.
  12. It was quiet at first following the belt replacement, which I had to remove the engine mounting to do as well, so not that simple a job. After a few weeks the chirping noise on cold starts returned, and I then thought it might be the idler pulley bearings, on the idler that the back side of the belt wraps round, so I loosened the belt to check the pulley and it seemed to have small amount of play, but as I couldnt remove the engine mount to remove the pulley to replace it without a load of hassle, I took car to garage to replace the idler, and garage told me they didnt replace it as they couldnt find a problem with it and car only had 24000 miles on the clock at the time, so the pulley would be unlikely to be the cause of the noise. They did spray belt dressing on the belt and this quieted it down for a short while, but the noise soon came back. Along with the fussy clutch with its very low biting point, which these cars also seem prone to, squeeking belt drives on the early mk 2 models seem another common issue. As long as the noise doesnt get worse, or the water pump starts leaking, I was told to just live with the issue as a quirk of the model. I've been less impressed with the Mk2 over my old early Mk1 1999 1.0CDX which I feel was a better car.
  13. I checked my 2006 1.3 and it does not have a decoupler pulley on the alternator, its just as standard multi-V pulley. The car has only got 30K miles on it and has never had the alternator changed so this is how it would have come out of the factory. It does not have an automatic belt tensioner either, the tension is set by moving the alternator back and forth and locking it in position, then fine adjusting the tension manually using a small spanner on an adjuster bolt on the alternator mounting bracket, with a final tightening up of the mounting. The belt on my car is not loose and appears correctly tensioned and the belt was replaced 6000 miles ago to try to cure the chirping noise I get every time the car is started from cold, which dissappears as the engine warms up. Fitting a new belt did not solve the squeeking and chirping issue, it still does it and I just have to put up with it now, as it doesn't appear to cause any damage to the belt. I think there is a slight misalignment of the belt pulleys causing slight slippage when cold, and moreso when cold and damp weather, as it doesnt do it as much in the summer months.
  14. My 2006 1.3 Yaris does this as well, its more pronounced if I have the drivers window open, and worse when the engine is cold. Usually comes when in second gear or third gear at 1500 - 2000RPM with accelerator pedal pressed, often coming out of sharp bends when I have to slow down and then speed up again but without changing down gears. My drivebelt also squeeks and chirps when starting the engine from cold also, and I am wondering if this rattling has anything to do with the pulleys on the serpentine belt of which there are 2 idlers, and maybe one of them is worn and rattles when cold. I've replaced the drivebelt before and this did not cure the issue, although I did feel slight wear on the upper idler pulley, above the crankshaft pulley, that the back of the belt passes over. I took it to a garage to investigate but he said the pulleys were fine and it was a "misalignment" issue causing belt noise, and it was common on Mk2 Yaris models, and not to worry about it.
  15. I used to have a 1.0 Mk1 and it would only do about 38mpg urban mpg. It was better on a longer run and could achieve over 50mpg in those cases, but for stop start driving round town, then 38 - 40mpg is all that can be expected. My 1.3 that I have now is lucky to get 33mpg used for urban driving. The loud noise when pressing the accelerator could be the exhaust blowing, and this would cause loss of power and increased fuel consumption too.