Stevie J

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  1. I've got a 2006 model 1.3 VVTi Mk2 Yaris, had it now 4 years. Issues I've had and have ongoing is a very noisy and squeeky serpentine belt drive when engine is cold, and new belts have not sorted it. Also clutches are finicky and dont always disengage the drive fully leading to crunchy gear changes, especially getting into reverse from neutral, and into first from neutral. Another issue is the Mk2 suffers from severe fogging of the headlight plastic which starts from the top of the lens and gradually moves down to cover more of it - requires attention with headlight cleaner, but this doesn't work 100% and they need doing again regularly or they will either fail the MOT of get an advisory. I have squeeks and creaks from the carpet under drivers pedals, caused by plastic material under carpet rubbing on bodywork and squeeking, which is very annoying. Exhaust must be watched if blowing as the backbox is not supported at the front, and if it breaks off the pipe like mine did, they drag on the road and get wrenched off with the rubber hanger breaking, to go under the car behind, a bad design as the exhausts usually fail at the joint at the front of the backbox to the mid pipe. Another common issue is water pump failure after 60K miles, and there is no temp gauge so if you dont see the red warning light for overheat, the engine could be ruined. MMT semi auto gearboxes are unreliable and prone to failure meaning expensive repairs, so steer clear of them. Suspension bushes get squeeky and creaky, which plagues my own car. The Mk2 is not as good as the Mk1 1.0 CDX that I had before, although that also had issues with fogging of the headlight lenses.
  2. Many of the Mk2 models with 5 speed manual transmissions have a very low biting point on the clutch pedal, they bite very near the floor, and sometimes even with the pedal fully depressed, the clutch does not 100% disengage drive from the gearbox, ie, it drags very slightly, causing gears to be a bit more difficult to get in, in particular, first from neutral, and getting reverse from neutral can be hit and miss, sometimes going in with a grind. This problem has always affected my car, and I tried all the usual stuff like bleeding the clutch lines at the slave cylinder bleed nipple, but it made no difference. Honest John in his reviews of the Mk2 has highlighted some models where the clutch does not always completely disengage drive, and causes resistance to gear changes unless the clutch pedal is mashed hard into the floor. I find the problem on mine gets worse in hot weather, and if the transmission and engine is hot. Seems to be a design problem with the clutch actuating mechanism, and on the Mk3 models, this issue does not occur as I drove my mother's 64 plate and the biting point is much higher up from the floor, so gear changing is no problem. People have tried changing clutches over this issue and it has not made any difference - still a low biting point and baulking at gear changes, so the issue is more with the slave cylinder not pushing the thrust bearing far enough in when the pedal is fully depressed, and no amount of bleeding will sort the issue, its just one of those annoying mk2 "quirks", and better get used to it, or sell the car on.
  3. Mine has no gas pressure in the system, it had been deteriorating up to the point it no longer engaged the compressor clutch any more when the switch on the dash was pressed. However, the green led light in the switch still comes on when the switch is pressed, although the system does not engage the compressor. I found that if the fan blower is set to OFF, even if the a/c switch is pressed in, the light does not come on. You have to have the fan blower going for the a/c switch to light up. Its common for older cars with a/c to have the a/c lose its gas, as seals dry out and the gas leaks away. Also, the condenser radiator in front of the main engine radiator can get punctured by road debris and this will make the system lose its gas. Having an a/c service will not automatically fix the a/c if there is a leak, which the machine at the garage checks for before it will admit a fresh charge of gas to the system. Its expensive to repair a/c if its faulty, and a re-gas may not last longer than a year before needing doing again, so unless you use the a/c a lot, it may not be worth the expense of re-gassing the system or having it repaired if its leaking.
  4. @bathtub tom I used to also get the "scrubbing" noise when turning slowly on full lock, which stopped after I had the front tyres replaced. This noise was a different sort of noise to the squeeking and creaking that the rubber bushings make. But indeed I was amazed to find out it was the tyres that were responsible for the grating - at first I thought the tyres were somehow fouling the wheel liners or something to make the dreadful noise, but a simple tyre change sorted the issue. It may have been down to the tread on the old tyres getting worn and the rubber perishing, as the old tyres were quite old - my car only does low mileage and still only has 31K on the clock for 13 years old, so the tyres take quite some years to reach the point of replacement.
  5. Mine creaks and squeeks from the suspension, moreso going over uneven roads or as you say, turning in a tight circle, and I put it down to the rubber bushes on the anti roll bar getting old and creaky, but saying that, my mother's 64 reg 1.33 Icon has also now started doing it, but not as bad as I get with my car, so it seems Toyota dont use very good quality suspension bushes, which age rapidly and become noisy. The noise comes and goes and can be worse in colder weather, but really, the first place I would go to would be the roll bar bushes and replace those if I really wanted the creaking gone. I will wait till the MOT tester fails the car and have them done then, but for now, i just put up with the creaking noises.
  6. Beware of swapping steelies for alloys, as your insurance company would likely need to be informed, as any deviation from the original spec for the model, such as swapping steelies for alloys would be classed as a modification, and some insurers will refuse to insure you if they find out your car has been modified. I wanted to put alloys on my own 2006 Yaris, as it also has rusty steelies showing through the wheel trims, but decided against it as I could have been made to pay higher insurance premiums. Refurbing the original steelies would be the better way to go, unless of course your insurer does not mind you modifying your car, but its wise to ask them before doing any wheel swapping.
  7. Yeah, corrosion was an issue on my old 1.0, but it only started needing welding doing after it was 14 years old, and eventually it got to the stage where there was gaping holes in the rear arches, by the rear inner sills. The outer rear sills needed welding too, and it corroded through the fuel filler neck pipe and its breather, allowing water spray from the rear wheel into the fuel tank. My current 1.3, a 2006 T3 is showing surface corrosion on rear suspension parts, but as yet, at 13 years old, it had not failed an MOT for corrosion reasons. Heres a couple of pics of where my 1999 1.0 failed its MOT, on the nearside rear inner arches. It failed on the other side too for the same issue, but not as severe.
  8. My old 1999 1.0 CDX had the bearing chatter when in neutral and idling for all the time I owned it, it did get worse as the car approached 70K miles, and it had some gearbox whine when driving along too, especially in the lower gears, but it kept on going just fine till I sold it, at 17 years old for 400 quid. Some transmission noise caused by wear at higher mileages is normal on most cars. Also depends a lot on how hard the car got driven during its 90K miles on the road, as some people are much harder on clutches and transmissions than others. It does not make economic sense to spend hundreds on an old car unecessarily, as you wont get it back when you come to sell it (or scrap it). Older Yaris will suffer more from corrosion issues too, which can end their lives once the MOT tester deems them too rotten on the undersides, and welding repairs to sills and chassis run into hundreds.
  9. Absolute nonsense eh? OK, let him take it to a garage then. They will still say the gearbox will have to come out anyway to change the release bearing. And it will still cost a few hundred quid in labour.
  10. Personally, if the car still drives OK and the rattle noise is only slight, the car could go on being driven till the problem gets worse.
  11. I had this exact problem on a Rover 400, and it was not the release bearing - it was the gearbox input shaft idler bearing, and the car had to have a replacement gearbox fitted. The fact that the noise goes away when the clutch is depressed, means it cant be the thrust bearing, as this would still be spinning as it holds the diaphragm against the clutch centre plate. Once the clutch is pressed in, it takes away the drive to the gearbox, and if the noise stops, then it means that unfortunately you are going to need a gearbox overhaul, and usually the clutch would be replaced if the gearbox is replaced. This will not be cheap, and could mean writing the car off if its a high miler, as the cost of repairs would be prohibitive.
  12. Sounds like the input shaft bearing on the gearbox maybe on the way out, which would make sense, as this can cause a loud knocking and tapping noise when the engine is running at idle in neutral. The fact that it stops making a noise when the clutch is pressed in means its not the clutch, as a worn thrust bearing would make more noise when the pedal is depressed. How many miles has the car done?
  13. When I had my Mk1 I went with 35psi all round, but 30 - 40 should be fine - it all depends on how much the car is loaded up, with heavy loads needing a higher psi on the rear. You say the clicking has stopped, but hearing this, one thing it may possibly be is the evap solenoid which is under the air cleaner box, on the passenger side - it has vapour pipes leading to the fuel tank, and at a certain engine temp, it starts clicking on and off allowing the fuel tank vapour to be allowed into the inlet manifold. I know my old car, this valve used to click pretty loudly. If it was a hole in the exhaust manifold, this would click loudly all the time, moreso under engine loading. It is always a good thing to change oil and filter anyway on a newly acquired car, especially one with a timing chain like the Yaris has, as neglected oil changes will wear the chain out quicker. Severe chain wear will make the engine rattle, and may possibly affect the timing, causing the check engine light to come on, but this would rattle all the time, and it wouldnt be intermittant.
  14. Only the CDX and T-Spirit models from that era came with a CD player as standard (my old 1999 1.0 CDX had a CD player instead of a tape deck), and I would expect they would just swap over if you can find one. the photo is of my old CDX, showing where the CD slot is on the dash. They dont have a temp gauge - only a red warning light in the shape of a thermometer, which comes on when the engine is overheating. The light is blue when engine is cold, and goes out when it warms up. You can see the blue temp light on the far left of the display - this turns red when the engine is overheating but is difficult to see when the sun is shining on the display. I dont know what the clicking might be, but the fan is built onto the front of the radiator and only comes on when the temp gets high - it doesnt run at most times. Perhaps its coming from the drivebelt area and could be a clicking pulley of failing water pump which is common on these cars, and replacing the water pump does not require removal of the timing chain. Squeeking clutch pedal - yes, it probably needs some oil on the pivot point under the dash.
  15. I have the same issue with my 2006 Mk2. They all go like it, and its sun damage and oxidation of the outside of the plastic lens. They start deteriorating from the tops of the lens, and it progresses downwards over time to affect the whole headlight lens. The Mk1 models also do it, as my last car had the same issue. I find that using Meguiars Plast RX which you can get from Halfords, and plenty of rubbing and buffing can improve the lens, but to do it properly a buffing pad on an electiic drill is better. If the deterioration of the lens is bad enough, the car can fail its MOT, but usually, light deterioration and fogging of the lens will get an advisory.