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Stevie J

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  1. I would be inclined to sort out the issue that is causing the Engine management light to come on first - jerky movement at low revs on part throttle can often be caused by a defective or dirty MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor, which will also give other fault codes not related, like mixture too lean or o2 sensor errors. 80K miles on the original MAF at 11 years old could be pointing to it being an issue. The MMT transmission on the Mk2 has been a constant source of problems for owners, and was ditched by the time the Mk3 came out in 2011. The jerkiness from the engine driving along at low speeds in s
  2. Stevie J

    Low idle

    I have a 2006 with the 1.3 engine. They do idle a bit rough when the engine is warm, and 550 - 700 RPM when warm is what mine does as well. They start from cold at just over 1000rpm as most cars need higher rpm when cold due to the engine getting more fuel as on "choke". The drivebelt on my car squeeks when cold, its always done it, and even when a new belt was fitted it soon started chirping and squeeking again. I think its a common issue due to slight pulley misalignment, which causes the back side of the belt to slightly slip on the middle idler pulley when cold or damp. As long as it doesn
  3. On the digital dash on my 2006 Mk2, this is how I do it. Briefly press the trip reset button until odometer display set to "odo" so it displays total mileage covered. Turn on the headlights, then hold the trip reset button down for several seconds. The display will re-brighten, but will stay bright until you decide to dim it again by repeating the process, with the headlights on, hold the trip reset button in until the display dims.
  4. I believe the rocker cover has to be removed to give access to the camshafts, and feeler gauges used to check the valve clearances - ie the distance between the cam and its follower, whilst the cam is at its lowest point over the follower. The engine has to be rotated to check each set of 2 valves, first on the intake camshaft, and then on the exhaust camshaft. As long as they are between the specified tolerances, something like 0.15 - 0.25 mm Intake and 0.2 - 0.3 mm for exhaust, then they should be OK. Any larger clearances than those specified I believe the followers would need to be change
  5. Mine's a 2006 1.3 - same as yours. The engines on these always seem a bit tappety, mine is the same clicking at idle and I also can hear it driving along. Its valve clearances that need adjustment - these engines dont use hydraulic tappets, so they need to be adjusted manually, Toyota recommend its done at 60K miles. Fuel injectors can also be heard clicking which is pretty normal for these engines too. The timing chain should need no maintenance as long as the oil has been changed regularly every 10k miles, but I dont think your engine is suffering from chain wear rattle. Chain wear often set
  6. Sounds like possibly the thrust bearing (release bearing) is dry - did the mechanic replace this bearing when he did the clutch plate replacement? Usually it makes sense to replace the thrust bearing when you have the clutch replaced. If the noise was not there before the clutch was replaced, then it cant be coming from the gearbox input shaft bearing, or you'd have heard this before the clutch was done. My advice would be to contact the mechanic and ask about this noise, and if he did indeed replace the thrust bearing.
  7. I tried Meguiars PlastRX on mine, less than a tenner for a bottle from Halfrauds - ideally it needs to be applied on a sponge attached to a drill, but as I dont have one, I rubbed it on and buffed it with a cloth. Takes a lot of rubbing and buffing, and just about removes enough of the fogging to get the car through the MOT, but the fogging usually comes back quite quickly, and every year, gets worse as the fogging proceeds to go from the top of the headlights, further down toward the bumper. Mk1 and early mk2 models are really bad for headlight plastics going foggy. The plastic surface seems
  8. Stevie J

    Idle speed

    Its about right - previously to my current car, I owned a 1999 1.0 Yaris which also used to idle very slowly when the engine was up to operating temperature, it would sit at about 600rpm, and often I used to think it was going to stall, but it never did, in the 5 years I owned it. There was also vibration through the steering column and other parts of the cabin when the car would idle down to 600rpm, and I would see the rev counter drop to halfway between 0 and 1000 rpm. You could try checking the air fliter is clean, but unless the car has done high mileage (over 80 - 100K miles) I would
  9. Stevie J

    My toyota

    You say its Auto and manual - it cant be both, being a mk 2 Yaris its either a manual or a Multi Mode Transmission (MMT). I know on the manual there is a clutch pedal switch which enables the starter to turn over, in that you have to have the clutch pedal pushed firmly to the floor in order to start the car. If the switch on the clutch pedal is faulty of out of adjustment, this might cause the starter not to turn over when the key is turned to start the car, even if the clutch is fully pressed down. I think the MMT transmission has to be in "P" to be able to start the car, and again, ther
  10. When I first got my 1999 1.0 CDX (in 2011 that was), I had issues with the tyres going down, and not just on one wheel either. The CDX and T spirit Mk1 Yaris used the same type of alloy wheels from the start, in 1999 up to late in the Mk1 run, and these tended to corrode and allow leaks round the rims. as the wheels on my CDX were quite corroded, I chose to replace the wheels entirely with new alloys, but it sounds like your wheels were the same type as the ones I had. In which case what you had done would likely sort the issue on the wheel that was losing pressure, but other wheels could well
  11. I'd say it was a dirty or faulty Mass Airflow sensor (MAF sensor), which is in the throttle body behind the airfilter box. When these sensors go faulty or get dirty, the car will run erratically, and not idle properly - often the orange engine shaped Malfunction Indicator Light on the dashboard will come on and a fault code stored (the MIL). It is difficult to clean the MAF sensor and they are fragile inside too, and it may be that the MAF must be replaced altogether. They will be likely to be expensive too.
  12. The exhaust can be very expensive depending on what parts need replacing. The factory fit exhaust has the front catalytic converter as part of the manifold (called a maniverter). These hardly ever need replacing. Below the maniverter, the front and mid section are all one piece, and comprise a second catalytic converter and centre silencer box, this section joins to the rear section just in front of the rear axle. The rear section goes over the axle and contains the rear muffler and tailpipe. Usually the first section to fail will be the rear muffler, as mine did 3 years ago (I have a 2006 Yar
  13. Replacing alternator bearings is not something I would recommend unless you know what you are doing, ie, you have the correct bearing pullers and can obtain the correct bearings, for which you would need to know the bearing code, for both sets of bearings. There is also the carbon brushes that would likely also need replacing. Obtaining a re-manufactured alternator would be a better solution for which I would do a search online to find a supplier for the best price. Some require you to send the old alternator back to them. Euro Car Parts list alternators for the 1.0 2002 Yaris but they are aro
  14. That sounds like the alternator bearings are failing to me. If it was the water pump bearing that was failing, the car would usually leak water from the water pump, and it would be obvious running down the side of the block and dripping out of the bottom of the engine bay. The exhaust manifold is also blowing, I can hear it when the car is revved up, and this is a common problem on the early mk1 with no aircon, as the front of the engine is open to the rain and spray blowing in through the grille, and it rusts the manifold out. The fact that there is exhaust paste on the manifold shows it
  15. Kwik Fit regassed my ac in early March when the car went in for MOT. After it was done the ac was really good - for about a week, and then I noticed it getting less effective, and after 3 weeks, it had stopped working altogether, so that was that, a waste of money having it re-gassed. Later, when I had the bonnet up checking the oil and water levels, I noticed a pool of fluid under the drivers side of the bottom of the radiator and thought It might have a leak, but no, it was fluid that had been dripping from the AC coupling where the pipe meets the condenser at the bottom. So the seals h
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