Stevie J

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About Stevie J

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    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Steve
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Staffordshire

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  1. I had my old Yaris, a 1999 1.0 CDX fail the MOT more than once, on severe corrosion, and it needed extensive welding doing to remedy the situations. It first needed welding at 14 years old, and at that time had only covered about 60K miles. The areas failed first were the rear outer sills, where the nearside had rust that went through the sill under the back door, towards the back of the sill, near the wheel arch. The follwoing year the inner wheel arches rotted through, just above the join to the rear sills on both sides of the car, and these needed extensive cutting out of the rotten through areas and welding of new metal. I had a failure for the petrol filler pipe rotting through and allowing fumes to escape and water to get into the fuel tank, as the filler neck on the Mk1 is metal and unshielded, and they rot through towards the top, so that had to be replaced as well. Most of the advisories for rust on that car were all involving the rear section of the underside, - sills, inner wheel arches, suspension mounting prescribed areas, and they can, and will, rot through. My 13 year old 06 plate current Yaris has never failed for rust - yet, but is due its next MOT in 2 weeks.
  2. I would get a multimeter and put it across the terminals of the battery when the engine is started and its still showing the red battery light. It should be immediately up to around 14.1V as soon as the engine starts, showing a charging voltage from the alternator. If the voltage is between 11.5V and 12.8V, then this shows there is insufficient charging voltage from the alternator. If the voltage is then measured across the battery terminals when the light has gone out, and its over about 13.8V, then the alternator is charging properly. On my own 2006 1.3 Mk2, my red battery light goes out immediately the engine has started, and stays out, and its charging voltage is over 14V - this is how it should be if the alternator is working OK. On a higher mileage engine, over 80,000 miles, then there is a higher chance the alternator carbon brushes may be starting to get worn down, and it becomes erratic in its charging, eventually stopping charging altogether, meaning you'd have to get it replaced or repaired, but a recon unit is usually the best way to go.
  3. I much prefer my Mk2 to the mk3 which my mother owns - I always thought they had gone backwards by going back to the old fashioned round dial clocks in front of the driver. They keep re-hashing a design now 7 years old, and its high time a complete new model came out to replace the Mk3 which has been on sale since 2012. Thinking that the Mk2 only ran between 2006 and 2011, it had the shortest production run of all the Yaris models so far. The Mk2 has much nicer dashboard, better storage in front of the driver, and as said previously, under seat storage, which I also had on the 1999 CDX that I owned before my current car. A total redesign is sorely needed and the mk3 finally retired.
  4. Its kind of strange how the issue varies from day to day, and seems OK when the car is cold, on dry days, but on damp days, when the car has been run for a bit and the transmission is warmed up, the clutch will start to slightly drag, even with the pedal fully down. Maybe the lining of the friction plate absorbs dampness and swells up, meaning less of a clearance from the flywheel when fully disengaged. Its only very minor clutch drag, so gear changes are usually possible, but a bit of resistance is felt when trying to get the gear stick from 1st to second, and second to third. As I say, getting reverse can be a nuiscance, as it often grinds in, and sometimes wont go at all, taking 3 attempts to get it in. As it was highlighted on Honest John, I assume it was a design flaw, but the manual gearboxes are much less trouble than the MMT gearboxes of that era. I guess I will just have to live with it. It hasnt improved or got worse in the 2 years I have had the car.
  5. My mother owned the car before I got it, and she's retired, so it didnt get much use, but she's not been one to ever abuse cars clutches and gearboxes. She has a 64 plate Yaris 1.33 Icon now, and says the biting point is much higher on the pedal on that, so she tends to over-rev the engine now as she was so used to the car I have, which had the biting point right down the bottom of the pedal. The pedal has no adustment between the pedal pivot linkage to the master cylinder pushrod - I checked this when i had the master cylinder off to inspect that. The master cylinder seems to work as it should. What did surprise me was that the pushrod into the master cylinder is plastic, rather than metal - the whole thing felt rather cheap quality.
  6. Ever since I've had my 1.3 2006 Mk2 Yaris, i've had issues with the clutch. The car is driveable for the most of times, but the biting point on the clutch is almost at the bottom of the pedal travel, ie, I have to really make sure the pedal is mashed into the carpet to enable a gear change. The problem seems worse after the car has been run on a longer journey and the transmission, clutch etc has got warmed up. A particular problem is engaging reverse from neutral, and sometimes, even with the pedal fully depressed, the gearbox will grind as I try to get it in reverse, but it usually goes in. Its as if there is slight drag between the friction plate and the flywheel, and this is also sometimes noticeable when going from neutral into first gear, and on subsequent gearchanges. I have already tried bleeding the system and replacing the clutch fluid, and even with no air in the system, its as if the slave cylinder piston does not quite go out as far as it needs to, resulting in not quite enough disengagement of the clutch, but just enough to enable gear changes. When driving other cars, there is a good few inches of clutch pedal travel from the carpet until biting point is reached, but on my car, its much less than this. I have read on Honest John that there have been reported issues with clutches failing to completely disengage, and I wonder was this a common problem with early Mk2 yaris petrol models? I can still drive the car, but the issue does annoy me if the car has been on a longer run, and then I'm grinding gears trying to get it in reverse. The car has done very low miles, 28,000 miles, so the clutch would not be worn out at this mileage.
  7. I think it could well be a dirty MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor, which does give lumpy idling and possible stalling problems, and also poor throttle response. On the 1.0 1999 model I used to own, the MAF is located behind the air filter housing, in the airway exiting it, into the inlet manifold. I cleaned mine very carefully - its only a very tiny thin wire, and any deposits on it, will cause issues, so a cotton bud with some white spirit of petrol on it used with care can be used. A dirty or faulty MAF will turn the MIL on, and the lean error code is a sure indication the MAF needs attention, particularly is the car has done over 80,000 miles , or if air filter changes have been neglected.
  8. I had this issue with the front sidelights on my 06 Mk2 Yaris, and it was the bulb holders that were making bad contacts on the small wedge push in 5w bulbs. The bulb would work if wiggled about in the holder, but not stay alight. I bent the contacts in the holder inwards with a small screwdriver, and the bulbs have worked since then. The rear lights I think use the same holders and 5w small push in bulbs, so maybe try wiggling the bulbs in their holders to see if there is a bad connection. Its unusual for both bulbs to stop working and for the bulbs to be good though, usually one side goes faulty first, but it may be that one side did go faulty without you knowing, and now the other side has done the same.
  9. Thats likely to the the main input shaft bearing in the gearbox, which spins when the clutch is not depressed, and when it wears, its creates a whirring, rattly type of noise. Its very common in higher mileage cars, and unless its really severe, there is not much to be worried about. If the noise goes away with the clutch depressed, then its more than definitely the gearbox bearing thats worn, and is unlikely to be the clutch release bearing or thrust bearing as its also known. The only way to stop the noise would be to overhaul the gearbox. My old 1999 Yaris with 70K on the clock made this noise too, and so do many other cars with manual gearboxes - its just the effects of higher mileages on the gearbox bearings. You could try checking the gearbox oil level, and it should be up to the filler hole level, but as I say, if the mileage is higher than about 50K, then there will usually be some kind of noise from the input shaft bearings when the car is idling in neutral.
  10. I have this issue with my headlight lenses, they are going cloudy from the tops and it is now proceeding to come down the lens and could cause my car to fail its next MOT due to "a product on the lens" as they seem to call it. I've heard that Meguiars PlastRX is pretty good for removing this oxidisation of the plastic lens, and hope to give it a try closer to the MOT date in March next year. They also do a kit with a buffing pad for fitting to a drill, but I think the bottle on its own with a cloth and plenty of buffing may do the job. http://www.meguiars.co.uk/shop/plast-rx