Archie0979

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About Archie0979

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Paul
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis T4
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Aberdeenshire
  • Interests
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Thanks for your response. It makes me feel a bit better knowing that you think I'm on the right track. It always seems to happen like clockwork, exactly when I have 1/4 a tank or less. As far as I know this car does not have a low lift pump hence why I experience this issue. The priming bulb is part of the fuel filter housing and you are correct that this is a common failure but I have replaced this part. Since replaced the problem is better but still not completely solved. I guess I can only but keep looking until hopefully I find a leak. Your right it's not great weather to be working in lol. It's currently -5.
  2. I have had the car a couple of months (Avensis 2.2 D4D 2007) and had a fair share of issues mainly due to poor servicing. My main problem is that I have had injector problems. All the brass washers have been replaced as no. 4 had severe blow by. Injector 4 was also replaced as the blow by was so bad it had badly damaged the injector. I know that no.2 has been replaced in the past which just leaves no. 1+3 are still originals. My mechanic has assured me that all the injectors are working as they should now. Mostly the car runs perfect the only issue I have is if the car is sitting any length of time I get air in the system. The annoying thing is that it does not happen all the time. It seems to be worse when it gets really cold and also when I get down to 1/4 of a tank or less. This might happen only once every 2 weeks (approx.). The symptoms are the car is very difficult to start. If I continue cranking the car it will eventually start. Now when it happens I immediately hand prime the filter housing priming bulb. What I notice is that to begin with it is completely soft. Within 3-4 pumps it goes solid and when I turn the car over it starts first time. Once I have it going I can immediately turn the car off and try to start it again and it starts like a dream. Also when the car is up to temperature I have no issues. Since it is starting with no issues when warm I am hoping this rules out a possible issue with a leaking injector? I have checked all my fuel connections and have no visible signs of a leak. There is no smell of diesel in the engine bay. I have a new fuel filter and I have also replaced the fuel filter housing. has anyone else experienced similar issues and found the cause of this as I am running out of ideas?
  3. Sorry I haven't replied sooner as I have just noticed the post. My problem was rather embarrassing and straight forward. It was the brake wear indicator rubbing on the disc. Just needed a new set of pads.
  4. I have this issue when the front passenger wheel rubs on the wheel arch cover when reversing at full lock. The cover seems to be on correctly but I will look properly tomorrow. I have the standard 17" Toyota alloy's for my car. Has anyone else had the same issue?
  5. Archie0979

    Help

    Even although the power steering is electric on your model your symptoms would definitely point at the alternator and or serpentine belt (especially if it is screeching). I have a T25 and had my belt replaced 4 weeks ago as it was squeaking slightly when starting the car from cold until warmed up. When the old belt was off it had started to crack and go hard and shinny. A bad alternator can cause all sorts of issues with your electronics which could explain your electronic power steering to shut down. I recently had a BMW 3 series (money pit and a pile of crap that was always in the garage) that had a bad alternator and the whole car just went crazy and ran in limp mode. Replaced the alternator and all was fine for a short period until the next thing went wrong.
  6. I have opted for OSRAM 130% night breaker at x 2 for £18.95 off Amazon. I did look at the 150% night breaker but reading the official data sheets the lifespan is only 250 hours so went for 130% night breaker for a better life.
  7. Archie0979

    Help

    Check the serpentine belt as this will also operate your power steering and would make sense since your steering has gone. Could also be the belt tensioner.
  8. Archie0979

    Help

    Get your altenator checked. If it is faulty it will play havoc with all your cars electronics.
  9. I have a Avensis 2007 2.2 D4D. Does anyone know what the main headlight bulb type is? Is it a H7?
  10. Got the car back this morning and it's finally fixed after the last 4 weeks of back and forth to the garage. The copper seal on no. 4 was completely gone (others were okay) unfortunately it must have been leaking a while as the injector was also dead. The bottom of it was bellowed and the needle point was all burnt out. Replaced all 4 seals and put in a re manufactured injector, re coded the injector and all seems fine now. Engine no longer breathing heavy, start's, idles and runs fine and also no oil leaking out of intercooler pipe now.
  11. It's funny you should say about white smoke. When driving normally I get no smoke but if I accelerate hard I get a small amount of white smoke. Once the car is up to temperature it runs fine and I have no loss of performance. The issues only show at start up and while cold. The main issues are a longer crank time and a rough idle. Once up to temperature the idle smooths out.
  12. I have a Avensis 2.2 D4D and have been have injector problems. The car is laboured starting when cold and get some grey/white smoke. Once warmed up the car has full performance and no smoke. I am 95% certain the injector washers are gone as there is a puffing sound (very notable when cold) and there is a build up of pressure in the crankcase causing it to blow heavy out the breather and leave some oil in the intercooler pipe. It is going in tomorrow to get all 4 washers replaced and the mechanic is hoping that is the only cause of my problems but said he will try and test the injectors also. I have done a rough test by myself by disconnecting each injector power harness individually. When 1,3 and 4 are done, there is a noticeable drop in idle speed and is almost missing. But when I done this to number 2 there was absolutely no change in engine performance. It seems that the issue is now pointing to cylinder 2. My question is, could blow-by from a bad washer on injector 2 causing low compression causing all the issues or would it be more likely a bad injector? Again I know the copper washers are a known problem and they have never been replaced and the car has done 137,000 miles and has all the classic symptoms of failing washers.
  13. Yep, I also have this exact same problem, and yes I mean identical to what you have described. I have been trying to find out what it is. It does seem to be pretty common for these cars to have break squeal and I know 100% that the wheel it is coming from is not holding so. I have not long got the car and it was sitting 4 weeks before I bought it so I was hoping that it is just some corrosion and it will eventually go away.
  14. Spanner symbol means that a service is due. When was your fuel filter last changed?
  15. Well after all the investigating everything is pointing at the injector washers. I know Toyota have admitted there are issues with the original copper washers failing at around 100,000-130,000 miles and they now offer an upgraded washer. I have all the symptoms that they have said to look out for. Car chuff's (more noticeable when cold), hard start and erratic idle. But strangely they said the biggest tell-tale symptom is oil in the intercooler. This is caused by the injector blow-by creating additional pressure in the crankcase which will make the engine breath heavy and passing excessive oil/diesel fumes in to the intake system.