Stivino

I got a new one from Amayama, it came all the way from Japan and was half the price that my local main stealer wanted for it. It was a genuine Toyota part and was even stamped "Made in Britain". So from Britain to Japan and back again and still half the dealer price.

I had this on mine, it was the EGR valve. When it was cleaned out, did you also do the manifold? Have you cleared the lights?

I had to remove a blocked washer jet this morning, this is how I got it out. It is released from the underside of the bonnet. It has two clips on it, front and rear. I didn't need to remove the sound-proofing from the underside of the bonnet, I just unhooked it from piece of steel that holds it up. I didn't remove any of the 8 plastic rivets either. I ran the blue tape from the top of the bonnet to the underside, so that I would know exactly where it was. I found an old piece of plastic (2mm thick) that was left over from a shower job and I cut a length from it. I them filed a notch 12mm across and about 4mm into the plastic. From the underside of the bonnet, I then pushed it towards where the washer jet was and I could feel that it was in position because of the notch. I pushed hard until I felt the plastic clip give way and it it popped up on the top side. The jet has two clips but it only needs one to be released, and it will pop up. You can then maneuver it out from the top. I suspect that you could also release it using a credit card but the notch let know that I was in the correct position. When I got the jet out, I was able to file a notch that was a better fit, that's the 5mm one. I also suspect that the main Toyota dealer will have a special tool for this. I hope this helps someone, sometime. Stephen

Hola hola caracola 😀 Bienvenido al foro. Stephen

Hi, I'm Stephen. I've I'm onto my 3rd Avensis, two of them have been the T180. I used to work in the motor trade in my younger days and still like to work on my own car. But, that is getting harder as the years go by. I have a wee look in here for a read from time to time but this morning I felt the urge to share one of my experiences. So, I posted something in the "how to" section.

Hello everybody, I'm new here, my name is Stephen. I thought I'd share my experience of fitting a new water pump to my 2008 T180. I removed all the plastic shrouds from the top of the engine. Then I got under the car and removed the plastic sump guard and the wheel arch liner. This allows you access to the bottom two bolts on the water pump, all of which have 12mm heads but they are not all the same length. As it is necessary to remove the top engine mounting, the engine needs to be supported from below. I did this by using two old scissor jacks and pieces of wood. I put one jack on the bottom pulley and one under the sump with a piece of wood to spread the load. Remove the front engine mounting, you'll need 14, 17 + 19mm spanners and sockets. You'll need to remove the serpentine belt. To do this you need to turn the tensioner in an anti-clockwise direction using a 22mm spanner. It's quite a strong spring and you need to hold against it until you can slip the belt off. Remove the power steering pump. There are two bolts which are accessible by turning the pulley. There's no need to disconnect the pipes, just pull it up and rest it on the top of the engine. Now you will have access to the pump. There are seven bolts all 12mm. The top five bolts you can get from the top but the bottom two are are easier to get from the bottom. The new pump came with a rubber seal. As the was no sealant on the old pump, I didn't put any on the new one. I paid £35 for a new pump from a motor factor. There was one on Amazon for £7 and, one for £11. But I opted for a factor incase there was going to be a problem with it. Reverse the removal procedure, fill up with new anti-freeze etc, and the job's a good 'un. If I think of anything else, I will add it later. I hope some of you can find some of this helpful. Stephen Obviously, don't go under an unsupported vehicle, take all safety precautions etc.