Stivino

From Reddit; All flowing electricity (current) produces an electromagnetic field. That's how devices like a clamp-on ammeter can read current without actually touching the wire. A defroster uses quite a lot of current, often, 10-15 amps flowing through un-shielded heating elements in close proximity to the antenna (mounted in the glass, on the roof above the window, or on the fender/trunk lid near the glass). To put that in perspective, most houses are wired for 10amps per room. That defroster draws more current than all of the electronics in any given room in your house. All that current in such a tiny space produces a pretty large electromagnetic field. Radio waves received by the antenna are just electromagnetic waves at a certain frequency, say, 106.1mhz for my favorite local station. With a powerful field so near by, interference is caused, and reception quality is effected. Anything drawing that much current, whether it's lighting, an amplifier, or a power inverter, will produce the same effect.

Next stage is to remove the cam covers, turn the engine with your hands or a big spanner and observe to see if the valves are operating as they should.

It's certainly the right size and shape to be a valve shim and if it is, then you have a lot more to worry about than the engine not idling. I'm curious to know how the shim found it's way there. Have you got anymore pictures as I'd like to see the layout of the engine?

Is the aerial built into the rear screen, above the heated rear screen element?

Yes indeed, the squib he is referring to is the inflator. We always called bangers squibs, many moons ago. Did they give a reason for it needing to be replaced?

You shouldn't have to set TDC before removing the distributor. Why did you remove it? Have you got any other pictures, as I would like to see more.

https://www.brakebook.com/bb/mintex/en_GB/PKW/111/applicationSearch.xhtml

5W30 and 0W20 are the grades so, 5W30 can't be the wrong "grade". The other numbers. i.e. C2, API CF, refer to the specification.

Check to make sure that there is nothing heavy on the passenger seat.

If they truly are in need in replacement after only 13,500 miles then, either something is wrong with your brakes or something is wrong with your driving style.

Maybe you should expand your post a wee bit.

Use a cable tie in the meantime.

The latest tyre industry advice recommends fitting the best tyres on the rear.

Sometimes they are called multiplug connectors or multipin connectors, multiway connectors. Have you checked to make sure that the greasy side actually connects to anything as sometimes all of the pins are not in use.

There is an article about in today's BBC news. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-49767195