avetoy

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About avetoy

Profile Information

  • First Name
    jj
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis T27(MY12), Avensis T25(MY03)
  • Toyota Year
    2012
  • Location
    Other/Non-UK

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  1. Thanks for the list Jens! Makes it easier for the rest of us to choose led bulbs. By the way, I have done 3D- drawing of deeper sealing cap. It is not much deeper than original but depth measurement can be changed easily. The drawing is available if someone is interested... Avecap.123dx
  2. Binding brakes... Easy test method: are the discs extremely hot after normal driving? If so, something has to be stuck on the brakes. NOTE! If the discs are hot, they may burn your fingers! So don´t touch, just feel the possible heat. The more the brakes are binding, the more they get hot and the more they get hot, the more they are binding... Second method (easier than jacking up): roll the car very slowly on horizontal lane or parking place and let it stop without braking. If the car stops smoothly and maybe rolls back a little, then there is no binding.
  3. Have you noticed that some decoders are only for can-bus? Avensis needs decoders with power resistors (25 - 50 W)...
  4. After quick search I found out that there are led decoders for T20 7443 bulbs too but I don´t know if they are digital or not.
  5. As I already almost knew: the bulb dealer computer said no ... There aren´t suitable led bulbs for (non-can) Avensis drl. Some extra resistors are going to be needed to make leds working.
  6. I don´t know much about those injector cleaning fluids... maybe that Redex is as good as the others. I use sometimes just two stroke oil. 1 dl mixed with full tank and that´s it. 2-stroke oil lubricates injectors as well as other, more expensive stuff.
  7. I would say no Can-Bus. Anyway the bulbs I bought were supposed to fit to cars with or without Can-Bus. Maybe tomorrow I have some more information about Avensis drl after visiting that bulb dealer...
  8. I bought earlier two cheap led bulbs ( CRX LED 12V 7443 T20 CAN-BUS). They have that double filaments emitting system (powerful and less powerful light) and both are same bright white. Problem is that they only flash once when turning sidelights or drl on. Avensis bulb monitoring thinks that bulb is dead and won´t let the current on. The led bulb resistance is too low. I visited Diodhuset website. Their led bulbs aren´t E-marked either but if they are suitable with projector lenses, that´s ok. I have planned to make new deeper sealing caps with 3D printer but I guess yours are as good.
  9. I think paul9 is right; no cleaning liquid will do the trick. If you really think your turbo needs cleaning, you have to remove it. 122000 miles is not so much yet... mine 2,0 D4D has run 340000 km soon and turbo sounds fine! Only liquids which may have some effect are those for injectors (STP, Forte,...)
  10. Hejsan Jens! I am dealing with same problem here... Seems that the only possibility to get the bulb monitoring work ok with leds is to add resistors into drl circuit. Or maybe there are some conversion kits too, I don´t know. Local car part dealer (specialized in car lights) promised to get me suitable led bulbs by tomorrow but I´m pessimistic. And if them should work, will the light output be enough (lumens)? Well, we will see about that. The good thing is that I can test them before buying. I am dreaming about led lo-beams too and interested to know which leds have you chosen? I´ve looked some but noticed that there is not enough room with the sealing cap on. I mean the bulbs are too long from behind.
  11. Sorry to hear that you are disappointed. It is true that Toyota quality is no more as good as it was in the past. I have driven Toyota since 1983 and I have to say that Japan made cars were better. Due the globalization (if this is the right word) and custom politics car manufacturers are forced to set up their factories all around the world. And use cheaper parts... Subcontractors quality control may not always be as good as possible. But still I think that Toyota has little bit better price/quality ratio than many others?
  12. Simple test to find out roughly if there is enough refrigerant: just open the blue cap and push shortly the needle valve inside with a pencil or nail. That cap can be found from the A/C pipe under the hood. NOTE! The engine must not be running! When the needle valve is pushed, there will be hiss. If the hiss sound is very silent, system pressure is low and the pressure switch will not let the compressor start (code 23). A/C system (R134a) pressure is normally 5 - 6 bar (depending on the ambient temperature), and the hiss sound should be quite strong. As said before, this is very rough method and If you have doubts, just don´t do it.
  13. Vacuum test doesn´t always tell the truth about leaks... Workshops may not have enough time to wait for results. It takes at least half hour to see the changes to vacuum if the leak is small. Sometimes it would be better to do pressure test with nitrogen gas instead. And with leak detector fluid the leak(s) will be found simply by bubbles. Of course this method takes more time and money. Maybe a smaller workshop could do the pressure test cheaper? But of course they must have refrigerant pressure gauges and connectors for R134a (in this case) and nitrogen and so on.. Dye test with infrared light is possible too...
  14. Sorry for empty message! I was going to say: There must be leak somewhere. It´s not normal to fill a/c system every year. My old T25 2004 1,6 has never been filled yet. The most common reason for leaks are dried a/c compressor shaft sealants That is why a/c should be on sometimes even winter time. Small amount of compressor oil is always mixed with refrigerant and it lubricates those shaft sealants during the circulation. A/c system condenser (in front of radiator) could be broken too. A little stone for example may have done damages...
  15. There must be leak somewhere. It´s not normal to fill a/c system every year. My old T25 2004 1,6 has never been filled yet. The most common reason for leaks are dried a/c compressor shaft sealants That is why a/c should be on sometimes even winter time. Small amount of compressor oil is always mixed with refrigerant and it lubricates those shaft sealants during the circulation. A/c system condenser (in front of radiator) could be broken too. A little stone for example may have done damages...