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mrpj1

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Everything posted by mrpj1

  1. I was "guilty" of that more than once. Stupid MMT tansmission, E mode, refusing to change up from 1st gear.
  2. Which makes the below incorrect? " a passenger seat" which would indicate to me, any passenger seat, front and rear? That's from the owner's manual.
  3. Except when on the brow of a hill when the "dipped projectors" are directly aimed at oncoming traffic.
  4. As I wrote, Mike, not really paid much attention to them. Without actually confirming, I'm almost certain all three light, in my car, by just entering through the driver's door and starting the machine. It's not often I'm right and probably wrong again! This doesn't explain fully about the three lights either. "Passenger detection sensor and passenger seat belt reminder  If luggage is placed on a passenger seat, the passenger detection sensor may cause the warning light to flash even if a passenger is not sitting in the seat.  If a cushion is placed on the seat, the sensor may not detect a passen- ger, and the warning light may not operate properly"
  5. Not paid that much attention, but I think that's what happens in mine. I also keep the outer belts "clicked" in place when the rear seats are unoccupied. However, not the centre belt and I think the centre l.e.d. does remain illuminated.
  6. Use a different "mechanic"! That's the design of some ATE (Teves) callipers. Like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332616556327?hash=item4d717ddf27:g:YbQAAOSwRHleb6UM&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Gq7hAaJfur%2F1i55IO1fcIqDPrgtHkpZlR2meYRDYyq959a7Ihq485b1TKKBXBCXjmjOxFFRBqP79%2FmtFmC41YecN%2FjEdx%2FUjYQAbc%2Fm3GTh4CymnOLintcr1ndtAR614mdNcfcXH4fEDj8JoTV71vfubUmzaigswtwdPPY%2Fqv6IC%2BduLqr7X2zOlmjLVjriQ2hIUB8Se5G%2BBaIiromhbFKh20sBEon8Ki9TtC2TNhP17S5Stj8sF89ZP9kCZjkYtfq%2FgNmxUTkMksShWuTLP4SDp0zbkM5DcnYuHDWmvQVR|tkp%3ABFBMuKmKwJlg The end opposite the threaded will be for a hex. key (Allen), usually 7mm. My front brakes are ATE and use those pins.
  7. I will have to agree to disagree. My car was in for service one week before the 5 years warranty expired. Reported, by phone, that the engine rear main seal was leaking, "That will be £700+ to change sir." When I pointed out the car was still within the 5 years and surely covered. "Oh, I'll phone back." It then changed to "Our "Master Tech" has just checked and it's fine!" Never entered their portal again, coffee and biscuits, free wifi or not. Oil level, with my engine, cold or a few minutes after stopping, level ground, still shows different on each side of the dipstick.
  8. Sorry, late response! Thanks both.
  9. I did have an item similar to that in the link. However, for a tidier alternative I fitted the small diplay and u.s.b. outlets shown in the pictures. It is fitted in a once blanked spare switch "hole" to the left of the speedometer cluster. It also leaves the 12v outlet free for something else, if necessary. Not as easy as plugging in something though! It does require an ignition switched supply and earth. Cables are provided along with an inline fuse.
  10. 1.33 litre petrol. I usually tighten the engine oil drain plug by "feel" bearing in mind it's an aluminium sump and very easy to go all gorilla when tightening! I have tried a search, nothing came up, but what is the correct tightening torque when using a new (Toyota) sealing washer?
  11. Similarly with R.A.C cover purchased using a large supermarket chain's vouchers. No membership card at all. E-mail confirmation only too. Hopefully, if I need assistance, my membership can be confirmed by name and address, no way can I remember the number unless written somewhere available. Personal cover so car registration mark would only be useful for identifying the car I'm in!
  12. Things have massively changed in the last 60 years with regards rust and build quality though.
  13. Coincidentally just finished mine. Using the "Moonshine" shampoo (1 capful/bucket of water) and will follow up with the quick detailer later. Both excellent products.
  14. Not if the, used to be, carbon disc/bearing is pivoted which those properly designed did and operated equally on the leaf springs. Somewhat like the Watt Linkage on a beam engine. Does it matter if there's a hole in the bell housing to accomodate the actuating lever? That should have a concertina type rubber cover.
  15. Re-inventing the wheel again!
  16. I'd rule out air in the system or any signs of fluid leakage from the master cylinder as suggested by Tony. That has a direct mechanical connection to the pedal. Is the slave cylinder in the bell housing? Daft design! It could even be a problem/leak with that. Don't just assume it is though, major dismantling involved for access/changing.
  17. It might help if the model was revealed. i.e. specification. My Icon+ , certainly not a base version, has the same unit fitted, with a "Map" button, but it doesn't have that that function from new. Touch, not Touch and go. Similarly, push "Map" nothing happens. Mine does have dual climate control, as in the picture.
  18. Is that the computer telling the display there's 50 or zero miles range? I wouldn't rely on that anyway or drive until R or a warning light!
  19. I can only reply that there's certainly nothing similar with my car. 2014, same engine but Multidrive. Auxilliary belt due a change (inspection at 6 years? or 60k miles)? Or simply wind whistling through somewhere/thing at certain speeds? Or could be any of the rotating components, eg. alternator etc..
  20. Coincidentally Tony, I've just replaced my cabin/pollen filter with the Blueprint item you linked to. It replaced a Toyota filter with "UP" marking. I ignored the airflow arrows on the Blueprint filter and just fitted it the same orientation as the Toyota filter. I bought from that same seller but in "bulk".https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174967215003?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110002%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111451%26meid%3D7db48ce2d0ac451f9f6476ed9c84ce57%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D173521013506%26itm%3D174967215003%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2WithMLRv3%26brand%3DBlue+Print&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A1749672150037db48ce2d0ac451f9f6476ed9c84ce57|enc%3AAQAGAAABACtrZQ7uyU6NyRWMuc0OogoSa%2FUIDys%2F02w7jR10vOAtcKvRSuQFmqNMTqbwxYdnZMyFXJeWbsMJA1v8J%2F9fAHqxiNVaU65PyvOX04WpcvrjSWMkQlEAI4rcFGYGkiRE7jLatbxUBc2r3Wj0lmnG9BXibQrNOz%2FxyyMH97E0vrMkWC0X4PTEMWWfqLnimObSyjmrR%2FLfP3VT0k0Ur4XaeruHr8lIyDVYJFBFKfma%2FA5jG26xUMrY2%2FSDeQXaXUEyIB5WMjxWbLLYoZNXgNeZgtBNivDU%2BBAAI12v9JXpk%2F6Z8xVe6yiAeUidm32AY%2BNiyqlkLe40gWcXMeyRGV7aC2Y%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675&epid=249300791 Excellent value for perfectly good parts. I also purchased new tailgate gas struts from that seller to. Not Blueprint, he only had one left, but 2 x Febi Bilstein equivalents.
  21. It can't help that the tube extends to the bottom of the sump and always contains oil. Of course it has to be like that because the dipstick is so flexible. Here's a "proper" arrangement from 60 years ago. The tube doesn't extend into the sump, no need, because the dipstick sits directly in the oil and is rigid. A perfect reading every time, on both sides of the dipstick.
  22. Mine doesn't indicate like your picture Tony. the two "smears" of oil are connected when I check, usually the engine side. However, the other side has the oil up to the full dot. I go off that one. No matter how long it sits 5min, 10min a day, and no matter how many times the dipstick is wiped it's always the same! It must be the shape, length and size of the tube which allows oil to stick to it's sides when the dipstick is withdrawn.
  23. That surprised me too! My 2014 Mk 3 is £30/annum (band C).
  24. Prices are crazy. I checked the current potential price for my car with three of those car buying organisations. All three valuations were over £8000, the highest being around £8400. We know they will find things to reduce their offers (probably) but my car, a pre-reg with 10 miles on the clock, was £12750 on the road, in March 2014. That included the usual suspects - mats, "mudflaps", 1/2 a tank of motion lotion and a full spacesaver spare wheel kit (it came from the factory with goo and compessor), I promised to walk away without the spare wheel kit. Of course, new car prices are similarly over the top and it's the price to change that's important.
  25. I don't drive like a F1 participant and very carefully over speed humps/bumps. Avoid potholes and corner very sedately. But at 30k miles and 38k miles for a rear wheel bearing to fail and a front road spring to break is, in my opinion, unacceptable in a car with perceived quality. A busted spring and failed wheel bearing are certainly shockers at such low mileage. In all my years of owning and driving many different cars over many miles there has never been a failure of those particular parts. And as Bob writes, £100 for a plastic housing with 6 l.e.d.s, is crazy money. Thankfully the high level brake light is an easy swap. I thought l.e.d.s are meant to last much longer than incandescent lamps? The original filament indicator, reversing and sidelight lamps are still working (oops, that means one will pop now). The replacement Osram H4 Nightbreakers are still going strong after 6 years. Rant over!
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