Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About bluepeter

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Right, this method didn't work.
  2. Thanks for the above Video, another member also directed me to that. Before I saw that message/video of using the bolt and nut method I made an online purchase of a pair of 18 inch stilsons. When these arrive I will try grabbing the edge of the bearing/hub from which the wheel bolts protrude, and then hitting the end of stilsons will a sledge hammer. if that doesn't work I'll go with the brains over brain bolt and nut method. When I finally removed the hub/bearing I'll be cleaning up the mating face with my dremel and coating it in plenty of copped grease. We're getting about two years from these ebay bearings but at circa £25 they are better value than the genuine Toyota ones which were near £200 from memory. Thanks for everyone's help, I'll report back when I have some progress to report. Pete
  3. I've tried plenty of hammer. Would I DIY blowtorch be enough to generate the required heat? Where would a puller be placed?
  4. Here is a picture of the hub/bearing which I cannot be removed from the axle. As Scannerman says, the hub and bearing are one unit. I have undone the four bolts on the rear of the hub so there are no fixings securing the hub to the axle but still the hub/bearing cannot be removed from the axle, it must be stuck with rust. Could someone explain how I can use a puller in this case?
  5. Hi, I need to change one of the rear wheel bearing on our 04 Yaris, it was an advisory on the MOT and it's noisy. I cannot remove the bearing from the hub though. I've undone all the relevant bolts and the sensor and drowned where the hub and bearing meet in plus gas. Just now I made up a 'tool' which also didn't remove the bearing. The tool was a 2ft long piece of angle iron with two holes drilled in it. I put the iron against the hub so two of the wheel studs poked through the holes. I put two nuts back on the two wheel studs. Using a lump hammer I then gave the iron a few smacks. All this did was to cause the iron to bend rather than draw the bearing out through the hub. I've looked at bearing pullers but I don't see that they would work in this case as they seem to work by pressing down in their middle.They would just end up pushing down on the centre of the bearing. So, any ideas what else I can try?
  6. So i removed the two week old thermostat and put it in some hot water and it opened. I double checked against my Haynes and it was installed the correct way. I also fitted a new rad. I removed both the top and bottom hose and there weren't any blockages in either hose. I filled the system back up with fresh red coolant and bled it. From cold, the blue coolant light on the dash still goes off after less than a mile driving on a 30 mph road and even after a 20 minute drive the bottom rad hose is still cold even when the rad is warm to the touch. Questions 1) do you think the blue coolant light should stay on longer than it currently is? I have a new coolant temp sensor to fit. I did fit the current one only last year though. 2) Should the bottom rad hose ever feel warm/hot? 3) If the flow of coolant is out of the engine and down through the rad what function does the thermostat, at the engine end of the bottom hose, perform? It keeps the cool coolant out of the engine until that coolant has warmed up enough to cause the thermostat to open? I thought the coolant would be held within the engine, warmed by engine and only allowed to flow into the rad when it was warm/hot to allow is the cool? Please enlighten me as I now not sure there actually is an issue with the car, it may be my understanding that needs fixing.
  7. what's a surefire way of checking for a clogged rad, garden hose into the top and see what the flow is like out of the bottom?
  8. the heater works fine. I replaced the coolant temp sensor last year. I'm inclined to believe that sensor is still ok because of the heater. That is only my deduction though.
  9. so the rad could be blocked?
  10. Hi, the blue coolant temperature light on our 04 1litre 04 Yaris has started to go out after only a minute or two of driving. The bottom radiator hose was soft and cold even after driving the car for say 20 minutes. The top hose, the one that has the metal cap above the radiator on one end and the other going to the engine, was nice and warm. I replaced the thermostat ( with a non OE part from GSF )thinking it was this that had failed and was not letting the warm coolant out of the engine and into the radiator via the bottom hose. I'm still seeing the same symptoms after this replacement and bleeding the coolant system. Any ideas what else I can check before I buy a genuine thermostat? Anyone give me tips of bleeding the system? Thanks, Pete