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RAV4-D4D

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RAV4-D4D last won the day on February 28 2020

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About RAV4-D4D

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  • First Name
    John
  • Toyota Model
    Rav4
  • Toyota Year
    2005
  • Location
    Suffolk

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  1. When I had the problem, just like you I did the battery (oversized it), starter motor(2.2kw although unnecessary - else they wouldn't supply them with 1.6kw starters) and wrapped the starter... each time I did something the problem seemed to get slightly better and then got worse (to the point it wouldn't sometimes even start on a hot summer day). Then lastly I did the (free) earth cable cleaning.... and it's been faultless since, so given what you've said I optimistic for you!
  2. Hi Lynsey Cleaning the cables is easy, although you need to remove the airbox (so you need a screwdriver and sockets). But if you have those it's a 30min job. I would suggest using emery paper rather than a brush as I think it's easier and you get a better clean. Just get the surfaces as clean as you can and make sure you do both cables (hence the need to remove the airbox) You don't need to put anything back on the terminals you've cleaned, although you can buy battery paste that is often used on the terminals of batteries. I bought some after I cleaned my terminals but never g
  3. Not had this problem but I'd start by unplugging the MAF sensor and running it disconnected to see if it still has the same problem - I believe it should just use default values when unplugged so not optimal but doesn't cause harm.
  4. Weird, I've never worked on the fog light but I think the following is possible; I'd try running a +ve and -ve feed to the bulb direct from the battery just to make sure something happens remove the car completely from the equation. If the above works I would then try one at a time ie run a wire from the +ve on the battery direct to the bulb and rely on the car negative for the return and see if it lights up. Then I'd flip it round and bypass the car car on the negative side. Good luck!
  5. Sorry I missed that you'd put in new grounds. In which case I would say there are probably two possible (inter-related) causes: 1) The starter motor is knackered and needs replacing 2) Electrical resistance increases with heat so something is getting hot AND has a bad connection/bit of corrosion If you are sure the earths are good then the next cheapest option is to heat shield the starter motor. If it is getting old ie bit worn out and higher than normal resistance then the heat of normal use may be putting it under pressure. Bring its temp down a little and you may find
  6. That's quite a list of attempts to fix! As you've spent a lot already you here's something free to try; clean the connections on the earth leads between the battery and chassis and the chassis to engine (I assume it will be two leads like this as per the diesel but can't be sure for your engine) - basically make sure there is a good earth to the engine as the starter motor relies on that.
  7. Your car is also of an age where poor earth connections can cause issues (usually hot start but other issues have been posted). I'd be inclined to clean the earthing cable connections - a few threads down you'll see my notes on doing that. There's a chance it will help but certainly can't do any harm.
  8. I've just replied on another thread about this, here's what I said: Hi I sorted this on mine and the car has worked faultlessly since and I suspect all you need to do is clean the earth leads/connecting bolts. It may seem trivial but from my experience it's the solution. Just be very thorough getting back to bare metal and removing all oxidation so both leads are getting a good contact -ve battery <-> chassis and chassis <-> engine. 30mins work and free! If the above doesn't fix the problem you could try the following: 1) Replace the battery (only
  9. Hi I sorted this on mine and the car has worked faultlessly since and I suspect all you need to do is clean the earth leads/connecting bolts. It may seem trivial but from my experience it's the solution. Just be very thorough getting back to bare metal and removing all oxidation so both leads are getting a good contact -ve battery <-> chassis and chassis <-> engine. 30mins work and free! If the above doesn't fix the problem you could try the following: 1) Replace the battery (only do this if the current battery is quite old) 2) Replace the starter motor -
  10. A bad battery will perform better when the weather is warmer too so nothing you've said rules it out I'm afraid. As per my post and Devon Aygo, if the plugs are bad you'll have an engine management light come on - you haven't said you have one so plugs is unlikely. Of course it's your call and it's going to be tricky to tell with the weather warming but I'd still be popping a new battery in, or maybe waiting till next winter and letting the problem occur again so any attempts to fix can be confirmed as working or not. Whatever you decide, good luck and please post any outcome.
  11. You may disagree but that looks like a scrape caused by hitting a low wall or other such object - I'm struggling to imagine the part of another car that would be that low and could swipe under the step as it was driven past. Either way it sucks!
  12. I may have misunderstood the question with my response - I thought it was being suggested the light had previously been coming on at 45miles to go... looks like that may not be the case
  13. Hi I assume when you turn on your ignition the light illuminates as part of the pre-ignition check where everything on the dash lights up? On a 2019 car chances of a light/sensor issue are low. That being the case the most likely reason I can think of is that the fuel light is set to come when there is a specific volume of fuel left in the tank whereas distance to empty is a calculation based upon volume of fuel remaining in the tank and 'recent' fuel consumption. If like a lot of people you are doing short journeys then your mpg will be low so it will anticipate a similar driving st
  14. Hi - I've no direct experience of the issues but a few thoughts on things to consider: 1) My car starts well but compared to others I have owned it is just slightly slower to fire, as a result my brain is conditioned to release the key just a little too early from time to time requiring a second start attempt. Perhaps you have the same brain/muscle memory? 2) How old is the battery - if you notice the problem mostly when it cold and first drive of the day then there's a chance the battery is on its last legs and is lacking its youthful oomph to easily get the car going. You can get t
  15. Hi There are two cables that you need to clean. The first is connected to the negative terminal on your battery and runs from the connector on the negative connector to the body of the car. It's only about 30cm long (roughly from memory). I would suggest you unbolt it and use something like wet and dry sandpaper to clean it. Basically you want to get the terminals back to bare shiny metal; I also took the paint off the bodywork where the cable was connected so it had the best possible connection. The second cable is a little trickier to access as it's under the air box. Removal
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