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RAV4-D4D

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RAV4-D4D last won the day on February 28 2020

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About RAV4-D4D

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  • First Name
    John
  • Toyota Model
    Rav4
  • Toyota Year
    2005
  • Location
    Suffolk

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  1. Hi - I've no direct experience of the issues but a few thoughts on things to consider: 1) My car starts well but compared to others I have owned it is just slightly slower to fire, as a result my brain is conditioned to release the key just a little too early from time to time requiring a second start attempt. Perhaps you have the same brain/muscle memory? 2) How old is the battery - if you notice the problem mostly when it cold and first drive of the day then there's a chance the battery is on its last legs and is lacking its youthful oomph to easily get the car going. You can get t
  2. Hi There are two cables that you need to clean. The first is connected to the negative terminal on your battery and runs from the connector on the negative connector to the body of the car. It's only about 30cm long (roughly from memory). I would suggest you unbolt it and use something like wet and dry sandpaper to clean it. Basically you want to get the terminals back to bare shiny metal; I also took the paint off the bodywork where the cable was connected so it had the best possible connection. The second cable is a little trickier to access as it's under the air box. Removal
  3. One easy way to test if it's a sensor or the instrument cluster is to reset the average speed reading on the computer and see what value that gives when you drive. From what I can tell they both seem to go direct to the engine management system and are relatively independent of one another. If the average speed is fine then you know the issue is likely to be with the instrument cluster/connection to it. On that point, on the basis you saw it work momentarily when drying the plugs I'd focus effort there. Perhaps you need to look at the connections that were damp and see if there's any corr
  4. I don't have the same version and mine is manual... but it has an 'idle up' button that causes the engine to increase the idle speed from approx 800 to 1200. Maybe you have the same button and it has been pressed?
  5. This isn't an uncommon mod and if it was likely to cause harm to the engine I expect there would be many posts about it. Since the EGR spends most of its life closed (same as having a blanking plate) it feels like low risk. Of course the purpose is to reduce NOx emissions so making this mod isn't good for society/health and I don't say that to judge as none of us are eco-saints, but worth thinking about why it is there. If it still works then personally I'd give it a clean and leave it to do its job; I'd only be considering a blanking plate if it was broken and I didn't want to fork out
  6. If the wear is the same on each side (just mirrored) then chances are it's normal. Just look at the rear wheels of a BMW X5 to see extreme and perfectly normal camber. How many miles have the tyres done from new and what sort of mix of urban/motorway do you do?
  7. I think that quote is slightly misleading as I believe when they say the same calliper they are referring to whether is it's single pot or 4 pot etc. In reality you would need to have longer calipers to move the pads further towards the outer edge of the disc in order to benefit from the extra braking capability. In fact, if you were able to squeeze bigger discs into the existing callipers then you'd actually reduce the braking (very marginally mind) as the the extra disc weight would have greater inertia but without any extra braking capability for the reason I first gave.
  8. Presumably to get better braking capability you'd also need to change the calliper (a) accommodate the larger disc (perhaps?) and more importantly (b) because if you don't the surface area/point of contact of the pad with respect to the disc won't change (ie the pad is still gripping the disc at the same radius from the axle and the extra diameter will never get used. Happy to learn otherwise if I am mistaken.
  9. I've no experience of non-return valves but I would hazard a guess that they are simple and cheap to install so worth a try if so. If you're sure the filter is clean (is it worth checking as maybe it's gunked up already?!) I'd be leaning toward a fuel pump issue. One thing you could try is turning the ignition on and off to light up the dash but without starting the engine, try doing that a few times and then try starting the car as I believe the pump primes/puts pressure into the system, maybe this will work so at least you don;'t have to manually prime the car. I assume this f
  10. Sounds like a fuel line pressure issue. Assuming there are no obvious leaks then I'd start by replacing the fuel filter, do you know when that was last done?
  11. Apols if this is an obvious question but when this happens have you checked the wipers aren't frozen to the windscreen?
  12. So it's ok for a couple of months. What is your usage pattern during that time eg daily journeys vs one journey a month? What sort of mileage are you doing in the month, how many hours are you driving for (just roughly)?
  13. Hi Monica, Is it petrol or diesel? Can you describe exactly what it is doing when you try to start? When the battery is flat how do you start it, jump leads or battery charger. Once it's charged/going how long does it last before it won't start again? Have you checked you haven't left the interior light on or similar (not meant to be patronising - but it can go unnoticed)?
  14. +1 on changing the fuel filter. Haven't done it on your car but it's likely to be easy enough to do if you want to diy - make sure you wear gloves and have plenty of rags as you will probably spill a little diesel when you remove the filter.
  15. Hi Andy Yes the hot start issue is the one you refer to but doesn't sound like it's that. I don't know much about the working of an immobiliser, I suppose there is a possibility the engine management system logs attempts to start the car when it is immobilised and maybe a Toyota garage could read that but I wouldn't bet on it. Sadly I suspect their advice would be to replace or to spend a lot of time/money testing and trying to diagnose. If you can do as you suggest and lock the car without the immobiliser activating that sounds like a good first test, it may be a case of method
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