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RAV4-D4D last won the day on February 28

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  1. I've posted few times on how I solved this - do a search, and if you have problems let me know and I'll find the post. But I'd start by cleaning the earthing connections (both cables)
  2. You'll see I tried heat wrap in one of my attempts to fix the problem - it did help for a while but the problem got worse over time (the heat cover is still on so that wasn't the cause of the deterioration). Clean the earth cable connections before you do anything and see what that does first.
  3. Take a look at my post, top of page 5 on this thread. Start by cleaning the electrical contacts - free and takes about 30mins and for the benefits of others please post back how you get on - thanks!
  4. Thanks for coming back to give and update, I'm delighted to hear it is sorted - now you can get on with enjoying your new car!
  5. This isn't a problem I have ever come across but definitely feels like some form of pressure control/vent is not working as expected. Does the cap get looser as the engine cools or once it's tight it stays that way?
  6. Hi Anna, Don't give up hope just yet, when I got my RAV it had the hot start issue (which was really bad) and a few other wear and tear items - but it's a 15 year old car so that's to be expected. It sounds like you're trying the right kind of stuff to diagnose the issue (and the stuff you're trying isn't terribly expensive so worth a shot), when it stalls you could also try pumping the fuel manually (little black button on top of the fuel filter) - you may just get a feel for whether the pressure in the fuel lines is low. Another thing you could try is temporarily unplugging the MAF sensor on the air intake - the car should run fine with it disconnected as it just assumes some generic values (so marginally less efficient) - again this may give you a clue what's at fault. I will say when I did this I got a diagnostic light for a few days but it went out once I plugged it back in - but if you're reading codes chances are you could reset it. I think anyone who says the diesel is rubbish is making a sweeping generalisation. I do 20k a year in my car and find it very easy to drive and pretty economical for a permanent 4x4 - I do long trips but rarely get less than 40mpg from the tank and have even got as high as 50mpg (measured properly, not using the onboard computer). Any finally, kudos for the torch holding skills, a vital member of the team!
  7. Hi congrats on the new car - despite the teething issues I hope it turns out to be a great workhorse. I know you say you have fixed the hot start issue but you also mentioned it was still a little reluctant to start so it might be the 2.2kw motor has masked the problem a bit. I found cleaning the earth connections helped with that but I also wonder if it will help with your idling issue - as you'll know car electronics can do odd things when they are not getting enough power so I'd spend thirty mins cleaning the two earth cables (search hot start and you'll find my description of where they are). It's free and easy and you've nothing to lose! If it doesn't work I'd also try putting a couple of tanks of BP ultimate or similar in the car, just to make sure you've not got some dirty fuel. Perhaps give it a decent fast run and use the rev range a bit just to clean it out. The other thing you could try (bit of a crazy wild card) is to press the idle up button on the dash, that gives the car a little more juice at idle when cold and may help stop it from stalling.... not a fix but may help! Either way, please keep us updated with progress even if things don't work it's good to know and others may have more suggestions.
  8. Never had this problem although I believe if you do misfuel and it causes harm then the damage isn't a gradual thing - I think fairly quickly the fuel pump and/or the injectors give up. Four months is a long time and it's worth bearing in mind around October time the UK switches to winter diesel and this reduces MPG by a bit. Also, in my experience diesel engines are very sensitive to temperature, I see roughly a 10% difference between driving at temps of 0-5 vs 10-15 degrees; so if you combine that with the falling temperatures from Oct->Jan I would say that's the more likely explanation. I have a feeling you may be over worrying.
  9. You may have a loss or pressure in the fuel lines, have you tried manually priming the engine before starting?
  10. If I was you I'd do a quick clean of the two earthing cables (a couple of my previous posts on the hot start issue outline where the cables are). It takes 30-45mins and is fairly simple (and free!) so worth doing; mine showed similar problems starting from both and and cold and cleaning the cables 6months ago has made it faultless. That said not running smooth is a not a problem I encountered but I'd still clean the contacts as electrical faults can cause odd behaviour;.
  11. I believe so, yes. I've never programmed a key but if the immobiliser is happy then I would say you've done everything you need to on that front. What exactly does the car do when you turn the key eg Does the dash light up? Can you hear the engine making it's priming noises before you actually try to start the engine? Do the dials do anything eg do you see the revs go up due to the start motor? Does the engine try to turn over? Anything you can share would help. I know it seems coincidental but it's possible the issue is unrelated to the key.
  12. What does the immobiliser light do when you put the key in and try to start the car? Does it stop flashing?
  13. You may want to check how tightly the coolant lid is screwed on. I had an issue (different engine) where it was too tight and as a result got slightly out of shape on the screw thread and when hot the coolant pressure built up and escaped. The solution was just too loosen it off a little bit.
  14. I refer you to my post immediately preceding yours, my car has been faultless for the past 4-5 months; and when it was bad it was really bad! If I had my time again I'd start by spending 30mins cleaning the earthing cable connections (battery to chassis and chassis to engine block) and see if that solves/improves things. It may sound implausible but sometimes the simplest things can cause the biggest of issues. Good luck!
  15. good point, I read it is bars, not rails