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Everything posted by RAV4-D4D

  1. Hi Andrew - are you getting both the glow plug and the turbo issue or just one of them? I suspect they are unrelated as I have had the glow plug warning on and off for the last 3 years but no limp mode, but if you could clarify then maybe folks will have some ideas.
  2. What oil have you put in? The rasping I had was only under load on the move, never on the drive. The thing is when you've had an experience like this you hear noises that may or may not have been there before. But you have nothing to lose really by driving it and seeing what happens.
  3. Hi When you say your engine was knocking I have assumed you mean it got loud and rattled rather than it was misfiring and exhibiting engine knock? Assuming you mean it was loud and rattled, have you seen any oil where you park the car? If not then you're almost certainly losing it when the engine is running. When did you last check the oil level, any idea how quickly it's going down? If it's leaking on the drive I'd try some 10w-40, if not I'd stick some 5w-40 in and monitor how much oil you consume and how the engine seems. To my mind you've got very little to lose by trying. In the past have there been any signs of smoke from the exhaust perhaps on start up or under hard acceleration? (perhaps less recently if the engine was really dry) I only have one experience of low oil and found it to be a faulty turbo. I'd noticed car had started making an odd rasping noise under medium-hard acceleration. The engine was very low on oil and I realised I was getting through 1L every 300miles, although if I didn't accelerate hard and kept below 60mph so I never got the rasping sound it used no oil. I see that you had the problem on the motorway *maybe* you consumed a lot of oil on that journey and actually the engine hasn't been running on low oil for quite as long as you think? Anyway, 5000miles and one new turbo later and the car uses no oil and shows no issues from having been low on oil. I've also noticed I get no soot/smoke from the exhaust now ever, even at night with headlights behind when I accelerate hard so I think the turbo seals hard been deteriorating over time. Good luck
  4. Hi - I'd start by changing the fuel filter and see if that helps. Good luck
  5. I'd start by changing the fuel filter. If it persists then I'd be thinking turbo fault I'm afraid - have your tried removing the air intake to the turbo to see if there's any movement? I can tell you from recent experience that a reconditioned Garret turbo fitted is c.£800. Good luck.
  6. If you're reading boost from the OBD then 10-15 is about right. I rarely see 15 (never higher) and I have to accelerate very hard for that.
  7. Hi Peter - I haven't experienced the P1251 code but based on a few posts about P1251 people seem to suggest it may be a sign of turbo failure, perhaps you can expand on why you're thinking it may be wiring loom related?
  8. Over the years I've heard of people having problems with metal dust caps getting stuck and being hard/impossible to remove. I don't know how common it is but just something to consider.
  9. Ok, sounds like you've tried a lot of the usual items but a few thoughts in no particular order: 1) I know you have looked at the battery connections but I would start by checking them all again to make absolutely sure that both earth cables have a really good connection between the battery > chassis > engine. 2) If you have jump leads you could try connecting the negative from the battery directly to the engine and seeing if that helps, if it does then you know the earth connections are bad. 3) Have you tried jump starting the car when it's hot to see if that helps? I don't think it's your battery at fault but useful to know if giving it more oomph helps. 4) Try cleaning the positive connection going into the starter motor 5) Fit your 2.2KW motor (subject to confirming it's the right one), since you've bought it you may as well try it.
  10. Great to hear that you fixed the problem and you didn't have to sell the car! Thanks for taking the time to feedback that it helped you.
  11. I'm afraid I can't answer the teeth question. However, if you've fitted a new 1.4KW motor and it hasn't helped the I doubt a 2.2KW one will. If the old starter was faulty replacing it with a 1.4KW should fix the problem, after all that's what it's been using for the last 17+ years so a 2.2KW isn't really required. What things have you tried? When you say it doesn't start what exactly does it do, eg does it turn over or does it not even do that? if you had to guess, after how many minutes does the car need to be driven in order for the problem to appear?
  12. Hi Lee What you're experiencing could be a number of things but here's a few I can think of: 1) The cheapest one to try is cleaning the MAF sensor that is on top of the air intake pipe. If your engine is not suppling the right air/fuel mix then it may go into limp mode. To clean this you need some contact cleaning spray, undo the two screws, pull the sensor out and give it a good spray. There is a youtube video on this. 2) When was your fuel filter last changed? If you don't know or it was a while back then that's another possible cause and cheapish to replace. 3) There is a possibility that your are experiencing over boost from your turbo and there are number of possible causes but I'd suggest you buy an OBD reader (£10-15) and app so you can monitor your boost pressure as your driving (and other things that may give a clue). You can also see what's causing your engine light to come on and reset it if you wish. 4) I have a feeling a blocked EGR could cause this so maybe you could look up the symptoms of that. Again these is a youtube video for cleaning this but it's a bit messy and fiddly so I'd consider the other options first. Hope that helps a bit
  13. I've now done 30-35k on winter tyres all year round and they are at 5-6mm, I can't say I have noticed any longevity or grip deficiency running them in the summer.
  14. I swap them when the clocks change as it's an easy reminder, except in my RAV which I have on winter tyres all year round.
  15. Hi I have a 4.2 2005, 2L D4D, and a two months ago I noticed that it was making an odd noise under hard acceleration. It only occurs when the car is a warmed up and the boost according to the OBD is over 12psi. The sound is a bit like a high speed metal high speed rubbing/rasping noise I get no obvious smoke on start up or driving but on a long journey of 200-300miles if use high boost it makes the noise and I can glug through 0.5-1L of oil. If I keep the speed down to around 60mph and lift off whenever it makes the sound (eg when it demands extra boost when going up hills) then it uses no oil. Before this problem came along the car barely used any oil. I've tried to check inside the compressor side of the turbo and there's no axial play in shaft, there is maybe a mm or two of longitudinal play. So although it sounded like metal on metal I don't think it is. I've attached a picture in case it helps! I've checked the pipes and there are no obvious splits etc so I don't think it's an air leak I have no fault codes The car drives/boosts like normal (even when it is making the noise), it's just noise and high oil use and I was wondering if the noise is oil mist hitting the compressor blades The intercooler has a little oil in it but I took it off today and none came out The breather is clear but I can see a light mist of oil in the air intake (hence wondering if high boost in causing oil mist to come through the breather and into the compressor It's an odd problem and open to suggestions/ideas! Thank you
  16. I think if it was glow plugs you'd get a code eg Glow Plug Circuit A but could be wrong. Also it would, in my opinion, be odd to be glow plugs because the OP says it happens when warm, but again could be wrong! I am something of a scratched record but now that you have mentioned it's an issue when the car is warm and that starting is a little hesitant you'd probably be as well to follow some of the advice for hot start issues and clean the earth connectors. I also saw someone had some improvement cleaning the connector on the starter too. It's free and easy and electrical faults can manifest themselves in odd ways. One other thing you could try is if you can fairly accurately anticipate when it's going to have a problem try giving thew fuel primer a pump or two and see if that seems to help. Intermittent faults are the worst, I hope you figure it out!
  17. Very sorry to hear this hasn't worked. When I had this problem I never did anything with coolant sensors but that isn't to say it's not a possibility given everything you've done. I know you've given the cables a go but I believe this problem is a power issue, hence why it sounds like a weary flat battery even though you know it's good (to be honest that's why coolant sensors seems a long shot to me). If I may suggest, consider replacing the earth cables, maybe even buy a longer one to go directly from the chassis to the battery.... it's not expensive and will help rule that angle out. Another test you could try is connecting a jump lead between the negative on the battery and the starter motor/engine block... it's fiddly and can't be left like that when using the car however, when it's acting up and won't start this test may help rule the negative side of the circuit out. I'd also suggest cleaning the positive terminals at the battery and on the connector going into the starter, as both need to be good to make a good connection. If none of that gives a clue/helps then come back and I'm sure folk on here will give more suggestions. Good luck!
  18. When I had the problem, just like you I did the battery (oversized it), starter motor(2.2kw although unnecessary - else they wouldn't supply them with 1.6kw starters) and wrapped the starter... each time I did something the problem seemed to get slightly better and then got worse (to the point it wouldn't sometimes even start on a hot summer day). Then lastly I did the (free) earth cable cleaning.... and it's been faultless since, so given what you've said I optimistic for you!
  19. Hi Lynsey Cleaning the cables is easy, although you need to remove the airbox (so you need a screwdriver and sockets). But if you have those it's a 30min job. I would suggest using emery paper rather than a brush as I think it's easier and you get a better clean. Just get the surfaces as clean as you can and make sure you do both cables (hence the need to remove the airbox) You don't need to put anything back on the terminals you've cleaned, although you can buy battery paste that is often used on the terminals of batteries. I bought some after I cleaned my terminals but never got round to putting it one, that was about two years ago and I've had no problems so you can save a fiver... If you're unsure or need more help just ask
  20. Not had this problem but I'd start by unplugging the MAF sensor and running it disconnected to see if it still has the same problem - I believe it should just use default values when unplugged so not optimal but doesn't cause harm.
  21. Weird, I've never worked on the fog light but I think the following is possible; I'd try running a +ve and -ve feed to the bulb direct from the battery just to make sure something happens remove the car completely from the equation. If the above works I would then try one at a time ie run a wire from the +ve on the battery direct to the bulb and rely on the car negative for the return and see if it lights up. Then I'd flip it round and bypass the car car on the negative side. Good luck!
  22. Sorry I missed that you'd put in new grounds. In which case I would say there are probably two possible (inter-related) causes: 1) The starter motor is knackered and needs replacing 2) Electrical resistance increases with heat so something is getting hot AND has a bad connection/bit of corrosion If you are sure the earths are good then the next cheapest option is to heat shield the starter motor. If it is getting old ie bit worn out and higher than normal resistance then the heat of normal use may be putting it under pressure. Bring its temp down a little and you may find it has enough oomph. Heat shields are cheap so perhaps worth a try? However, if that helps it means the motor's probably on the way out so you'll need to replace at some point. Personally I'd spend $20 on a heat shield to see if it helps before spending $150-200 on a new starter motor, but horses for courses....
  23. That's quite a list of attempts to fix! As you've spent a lot already you here's something free to try; clean the connections on the earth leads between the battery and chassis and the chassis to engine (I assume it will be two leads like this as per the diesel but can't be sure for your engine) - basically make sure there is a good earth to the engine as the starter motor relies on that.
  24. Your car is also of an age where poor earth connections can cause issues (usually hot start but other issues have been posted). I'd be inclined to clean the earthing cable connections - a few threads down you'll see my notes on doing that. There's a chance it will help but certainly can't do any harm.
  25. I've just replied on another thread about this, here's what I said: Hi I sorted this on mine and the car has worked faultlessly since and I suspect all you need to do is clean the earth leads/connecting bolts. It may seem trivial but from my experience it's the solution. Just be very thorough getting back to bare metal and removing all oxidation so both leads are getting a good contact -ve battery <-> chassis and chassis <-> engine. 30mins work and free! If the above doesn't fix the problem you could try the following: 1) Replace the battery (only do this if the current battery is quite old) 2) Replace the starter motor - you could even up rate with 2.2kw version but shouldn't be necessary as the car has worked fine for 15+ years with the smaller one fitted in the factory 3) Heat shield the starter motor - probably unnecessary but if you've done everything else what have you got to lose? Please post back with how you get on for the benefit of others.
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