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Everything posted by RAV4-D4D

  1. Hi I see you've changed the fuel pump, have you also you changed the fuel filter? Can you expand on the stalling and general behaviour of the car for example: Does it only happen when you use the car from cold or does it happen when the engine is already warm - if so is it still approx 5mins? After it has stalled how easily does it restart? Once it has stalled will it stall again later in the journey - if so after how long? When it stalls what are you doing, I assume pulling away from stationary? Do you notice any hesitation or other symptoms when you are driving to suggest the engine is not happy eg stuttering under acceleration, brief loss of power etc? How long have you had the car? If it's a recent purchase has it always done this? If you've had the car a while has the problem suddenly started or has it gradually got worse?
  2. Hi - a few thoughts to get your started: 1) I'd check everything else electrical in the car eg interior lights, 12v socket etc and see if anything else is not working. 2) I'd take a look at the fuses and check them - often one fuse will be used on multiple things so the above step may make diagnosis easier. 3) It's odd for something electrical and benign like a radio to stop working, I'd be thinking possible mice damage since it's been sat for 12months... again step (1) may give some clues. Let us know how you get on, and good luck.
  3. The engine needs air and fuel, I'd replace the air filter and make sure the intake is clear.... and if that doesn't help move onto the fuel filter
  4. That's great news and thanks for posting back the outcome. Start enjoying the RAV again!
  5. I'm glad there's been some improvement. You never know but now it is running a bit better it may start to sort itself out a bit. I'd be tempted to run a couple of tanks of premium diesel through just in case the additives help clean a few more bits. Looking forward to hearing if unplugging the MAF helps.
  6. Looking at the video the engine management light may be on, I don't have this generation of car to know what the lights do during the start up sequence, but would it normally have gone off by now. If you think it is on then a code scan is worthwhile. Also, do you have an immobiliser light on the car? If there any possibility that the immobiliser is still activated? I'd be tempted to disconnect the battery, leave for 15-30mins (longer the better) and then reconnect and see if the car fires up. I'd do this just in case the engine management system is a bit confused from all the battery comings and goings. But check fuses and relays just to rule them out. Was the engine hot or cold when it started the first time on the current battery you have in it? Can you confirm which battery you've fitted please.
  7. How confident are you that you didn't short the battery during fitting? Could you have fried the electronics? Are you certain the terminals on the battery were the right way round on all the ones you've fitted? Have you checked fuses/relays on the starter circuit? What make/model of battery have you fitted? How many CCA does it have and what did the original have?
  8. Ok, so it doesn't sound like it's temperature related because 20seconds isn't enough for anything to cool. Have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor and driving the car with it disconnected?
  9. Hi Macky - how long is a short while when you turn it off?
  10. Hi - the turbo doesn't spool (or doesn't noticeably spool) when reving in neutral as there's no load so if you have the fault in neutral then I don't think you have a turbo problem. My money is on the fuel filter... cheap if it fixes it!
  11. Hi I'm not an expert but I've heard reference to open loop and closed loop; in the context of fuel injection and also cooling systems and in both cases the switch between the two is temperature related (in fact for all I know it's the same sensor controlling both). Given that you say the car is fine when warm it would suggest to me that perhaps when the car is open loop (cold) it's not doing as it should; perhaps the temperature sensor is broken and the car is trying to operate closed loop when started cold; and perhaps once it warms up then it's in the correct mode. In my amateur opinion it seems reasonable that a lack of oomph would be linked to fuel mix and I believe open loop/closed loop is linked to oxygen/fuel mix. So I'd start by trying to test any thermostats in the car and see what they show. An OBD reader may also help as you'll be able to monitor the engine temp and see if it always clears at around the same temperature. I don't think it will show you any engine modes; you'd need a more professional scan tool. Good luck!
  12. I drove my RAV4 for 4000miles with no turbo (waste gate jammed open), if that was broken it would feel fairly normal from 0-35mph and then sluggish. It will get to 70mph, eventually. No smoke or anything though. If you want to rule the turbo out you can simply unplug it and it won't spool. You'll get an engine warning light though. I use a generic wifi OBD reader with Dash Command on the iPhone, works just fine for me, although sometimes it needs a couple of attempts and the engine needs to be on. MAF sensor you can also just unplug to rule that out, but I don't think that would cause smoke. I'd probably change the fuel filter as a cheap/easy possible cause.
  13. I have had the same glow plug code for 2+ years. It typically only shows in the winter (as you'd expect) and I can't say I'd noticed any starting issues and I just reset the light. It doesn't impact the turbo. If you unplugged the MAF sensor then the car will use backup parameters. If the car is functioning normally with it unplugged then I'd suggest it's a fault with the MAF. If memory serves you can use electrical contact cleaner and that can help if the sensor wire is dirty.
  14. Hi Andrew - are you getting both the glow plug and the turbo issue or just one of them? I suspect they are unrelated as I have had the glow plug warning on and off for the last 3 years but no limp mode, but if you could clarify then maybe folks will have some ideas.
  15. What oil have you put in? The rasping I had was only under load on the move, never on the drive. The thing is when you've had an experience like this you hear noises that may or may not have been there before. But you have nothing to lose really by driving it and seeing what happens.
  16. Hi When you say your engine was knocking I have assumed you mean it got loud and rattled rather than it was misfiring and exhibiting engine knock? Assuming you mean it was loud and rattled, have you seen any oil where you park the car? If not then you're almost certainly losing it when the engine is running. When did you last check the oil level, any idea how quickly it's going down? If it's leaking on the drive I'd try some 10w-40, if not I'd stick some 5w-40 in and monitor how much oil you consume and how the engine seems. To my mind you've got very little to lose by trying. In the past have there been any signs of smoke from the exhaust perhaps on start up or under hard acceleration? (perhaps less recently if the engine was really dry) I only have one experience of low oil and found it to be a faulty turbo. I'd noticed car had started making an odd rasping noise under medium-hard acceleration. The engine was very low on oil and I realised I was getting through 1L every 300miles, although if I didn't accelerate hard and kept below 60mph so I never got the rasping sound it used no oil. I see that you had the problem on the motorway *maybe* you consumed a lot of oil on that journey and actually the engine hasn't been running on low oil for quite as long as you think? Anyway, 5000miles and one new turbo later and the car uses no oil and shows no issues from having been low on oil. I've also noticed I get no soot/smoke from the exhaust now ever, even at night with headlights behind when I accelerate hard so I think the turbo seals hard been deteriorating over time. Good luck
  17. Hi - I'd start by changing the fuel filter and see if that helps. Good luck
  18. I'd start by changing the fuel filter. If it persists then I'd be thinking turbo fault I'm afraid - have your tried removing the air intake to the turbo to see if there's any movement? I can tell you from recent experience that a reconditioned Garret turbo fitted is c.£800. Good luck.
  19. If you're reading boost from the OBD then 10-15 is about right. I rarely see 15 (never higher) and I have to accelerate very hard for that.
  20. Hi Peter - I haven't experienced the P1251 code but based on a few posts about P1251 people seem to suggest it may be a sign of turbo failure, perhaps you can expand on why you're thinking it may be wiring loom related?
  21. Over the years I've heard of people having problems with metal dust caps getting stuck and being hard/impossible to remove. I don't know how common it is but just something to consider.
  22. Ok, sounds like you've tried a lot of the usual items but a few thoughts in no particular order: 1) I know you have looked at the battery connections but I would start by checking them all again to make absolutely sure that both earth cables have a really good connection between the battery > chassis > engine. 2) If you have jump leads you could try connecting the negative from the battery directly to the engine and seeing if that helps, if it does then you know the earth connections are bad. 3) Have you tried jump starting the car when it's hot to see if that helps? I don't think it's your battery at fault but useful to know if giving it more oomph helps. 4) Try cleaning the positive connection going into the starter motor 5) Fit your 2.2KW motor (subject to confirming it's the right one), since you've bought it you may as well try it.
  23. Great to hear that you fixed the problem and you didn't have to sell the car! Thanks for taking the time to feedback that it helped you.
  24. I'm afraid I can't answer the teeth question. However, if you've fitted a new 1.4KW motor and it hasn't helped the I doubt a 2.2KW one will. If the old starter was faulty replacing it with a 1.4KW should fix the problem, after all that's what it's been using for the last 17+ years so a 2.2KW isn't really required. What things have you tried? When you say it doesn't start what exactly does it do, eg does it turn over or does it not even do that? if you had to guess, after how many minutes does the car need to be driven in order for the problem to appear?
  25. Hi Lee What you're experiencing could be a number of things but here's a few I can think of: 1) The cheapest one to try is cleaning the MAF sensor that is on top of the air intake pipe. If your engine is not suppling the right air/fuel mix then it may go into limp mode. To clean this you need some contact cleaning spray, undo the two screws, pull the sensor out and give it a good spray. There is a youtube video on this. 2) When was your fuel filter last changed? If you don't know or it was a while back then that's another possible cause and cheapish to replace. 3) There is a possibility that your are experiencing over boost from your turbo and there are number of possible causes but I'd suggest you buy an OBD reader (£10-15) and app so you can monitor your boost pressure as your driving (and other things that may give a clue). You can also see what's causing your engine light to come on and reset it if you wish. 4) I have a feeling a blocked EGR could cause this so maybe you could look up the symptoms of that. Again these is a youtube video for cleaning this but it's a bit messy and fiddly so I'd consider the other options first. Hope that helps a bit
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