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madder

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  • Toyota Model
    1997 Carina e SLI Leanburn

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  1. Only a small bit of play in mine too. But the sound does suggest bearings which seems like a contradiction? CV axle is still what I believe is causing my trouble though. While I do love this car, given the prices of petrol and car tax in Ireland, dropping down from 1.6 makes sense to me. Is the fix gonna cost me the value of the car? Surely a 97 Carina with 250k on the clock isn't gonna fetch much! :) That is my question. If it is, or close enough to, I could probably come up the years a little bit and get a corolla with much lower mileage, and fall in love again! I have owned 4 cars in my lifetime, 3 of them Toyotas. Starlet, Corolla and now the Carina. I had a mazda in between the starlet and the corolla but I didn't care much for it. I've always loved my Toyotas. Just so reliable.
  2. Cv axle problems or wheel bearing? I have a very similar problem. When I accelerate over 50mph, I get a knocking sound. If I bend the car left, it gets much worse. Changed the tyres, problem persisted. Checked the CV boots but they seemed in good tact. However, the CV axle was able to move upwards a small but when I shook it with my hands. The same on both sides. That doesn't seem normal and suggested to me that it could be what is making the noise? I suspect the CV axle, but it could yet be a driver side wheel bearing. I am not sure if these things are expensive fixes, but on a 97 Carina that has done almost 250,000 miles, if it is expensive to fix it, I'm just gonna move on. Might downgrade to a Corolla if it comes to it. Cheaper on petrol and car tax! :) Anyone know how much these things might cost to fix, even in a breakers? Cheers.
  3. Strange thing happened just now. I had to take a 30 minute drive to the city centre, and the indicators worked perfectly every time! :) Maybe when I loosened the relay and then pushed it back in, the pins made better contact? I've a long drive ahead of me later this evening and back again tonight. I guess that will tell me for sure! :) Thanks Cal
  4. Cal, I found the flasher relay today. I took a chance, put the hazzards on and they stayed on long enough for me to find the switch. I could feel the vibrations of the switch flashing when I touched it. Thing is, it was very well sealed in. I didn't want to force it too much. Should it just plug out? if I pull firmly enough? I'd hate to break the pins of the plug?
  5. Thanks Cal. I will take another look so, as I believe that sometimes the relays can be opened up and repaired! But even if it is just to take it out and replace it, that would be great!
  6. Yes RHD. I did remove the bottom cover of the dash before, but I didn't see anything obvious. Should it be staring me in the face?
  7. UPDATE: I had the hazard lights on today for a couple of minutes(before I started the car), and they worked for a good long time. The clicking on the switch seemed to be coming from behind the speedometer and petrol display area, where the flashing triangle light appears. Could the relay switch be in there, and if so, how do I get that open?
  8. Hi Cal. Please excuse my lack of knowledge, but looking at that picture, that looks like the area behind the facia/dash where there is a piece of facia that pops out and there are small fuses? Is that correct? I did look there, but not very, very thoroughly. I saw small red fuses and didn't notice anything large enough to be a relay switch but I cannot be sure.
  9. I appreciate the reply Cal. I rang the breakers yard and they reckon it is likely to be beside the steering column, and the clicking noise does appear to be coming from there(on the rare occasions that it does work), but I just couldn't find it. I am either blind or else it is where you say it is. And you know what....that might make sense. I have had some cabling hanging down from under the glove box for a couple of years now! Never messed with it as all was in order, but it seems it might now be worth investigating!! :)
  10. This is a picture of the flasher relay that is supposed t fit my car. This is a picture of the facia fuses diagram. But the indicators wouldn't function at all if the 10A fuse from here, labelled ''Turn'' was faulty. This is a picture of the diagram of fuses located in a box, under the bonnet beside the battery. There is 15A fuse in here labelled ''Turn''. I swapped it out with the spare 15A fuse and it made no difference. I have checked all the possible locations for this switch. I took off the steering wheel protection panel and also the facia board behind it and looked around and under and found nothing that looks like the relay in the first picture. I also looked behind the kick spot beside the accelerator and couldn't find the relay switch. The only place I have't checked is behind the hazard button as seen in the next picture. So I am going crazy trying to find this flasher relay. Can anyone help?
  11. Strongly suspect the flasher relay fuse now and have sourced one on ebay. Thing is I need to check that it is the exact same one as is in my car. Can anyone tell me where these are located in the 1997 Carina E 1.6
  12. The indicators have started to act erratically. They only work for a couple of seconds before the clicking stops. Once the clicking has stopped the indicators no longer light up at all. When they stop working, they do not work again for at least 10 minutes, before the exact same thing happens again. The hazards act the same way exactly. I guess it could be the flasher relay fuse? Anyone know where this is located on a 1997 Carina E Leanburn 1.6 petrol saloon? Is it in the fuse box under the bonnet? And which one is it? Thanks.
  13. madder

    Overheating

    Yeah, you've got me in one! It can be pricey enough maintaining and running a car at all, especially an older one! But at the same time, it's really difficult to find a newer car as reliable and sturdy as the carinas! I'm handy enough at learning stuff like this, and if I could do it myself at all, I would usually try to. But I don't really have an area that I can jack the car up freely and release the coolant from the radiator, or to flush the rad. I was thinking too that if I flush the rad, it may clear any potential blockage but it will probably remove and of the radweld filling also, and I'd be back to a leak. So do I flush, fix the leak with radweld again and hope it doesn't block something else again, or do I just try to get a replacement rad from the breakers? It might be time to just go and do that. Thanks for the advice and suggestions though. You've been helpful.
  14. madder

    Overheating

    Thanks Petroleum. I guess I need to have the system flushed for starters. Don't think I could do it myself, and doubt I have the right location to do it myself anyway. Is it costly to have the system flushed and have the coolant refilled?
  15. madder

    Overheating

    Just finally in case this can help to confirm something one way or another. I've gone out and started the car. As soon as the engine heated up to normal level I checked the top hose for heat arriving rapidly and the radiator for constant heat and both were fine. This probably eliminates the thermostat. Upon startup there may have been a very tiny amount of bright-ish, smoke, only not in a continuous flow, just occasional. And after a few minutes the exhaust fume gave no colour. I waited for the temperature gauge to rise and when it did start rising I took a close look at the radiator, coolant expansion tank and hoses. No leaks but it was at this point exactly that the coolant starts to suck back into the expansion tank. Not aggressively, just pouring back in slowly, but continuously. I was able to open the expansion tank and see it flowing back in. Once I put the in car heater on, the expansion tank seems to slow down with the coolant sucking. And the temperature gauge starts to fall until it stays somewhere near the half way mark. That's all I can report. If it is a block in the radiator, would a flush work? Or is it a replacement that's needed?
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