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paul9 last won the day on August 21 2019

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About paul9

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  1. Air leaks in the intake path can make the ECU believe that the sensors are faulty, as they will change the amount of air the ECU thinks the engine is using. The ECU will measure out fuel based on the amount of air it thinks the engine is receiving, which will be the wrong amount. Then the engine burns rich or lean, and the ECU gets confused when it can't properly adjust the fuel trims. A dirty or faulty MAF sensor could cause similar problems. Just a couple of things to check on.
  2. paul9

    1mzfe swap?

    Not really the same, but I saw Mighty Car Mods on YouTube and they recently put a Corolla engine into a Yaris. They had issues with an engine mount and the ECU, I believe they had the original and and aftermarket one fitted. Maybe have a look at those videos to see the sort of issues you may have.
  3. Drain or change your fuel filter, if that is the water in the fuel filter warning light. The one about centre of the picture, underneath the oil light. That would be a good starting point.
  4. You could try a battery saver. You can get them pretty cheap on EBay for the type you use with another car battery, or a bit more expensive for the mains powered type.
  5. Quick tip, remove it while it is warm, if possible. The colder it is, the more likely plastic is to snap or crack.
  6. It should look similar to this photo, where you can see the high mark near the top of the bottle. The low mark was hidden behind the suspension turret.
  7. Well, most battery guarantees seem to be in the three to five years range. The green dot is more useful as a gauge of the electrolyte level, rather than a reliable indication of battery condition. If you have a spare twenty or thirty pounds burning a hole in your pocket, then a battery transconductance tester is fairly accurate in my experience. Mine is a Blueskysea make, but there are a few similar ones available. I don't know if Halfords, Kwikfit or the like will test your battery for you, if they think that they can sell you a new one.
  8. Strange, there should be high and low level markings on the brake fluid reservoir. Is it particularly dirty on the outside edges making it difficult to see any marks?
  9. RR RL FR FL are corners of the car, Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right and Front Left. Fog indicates the wire for the fog lights. You would also have reverse, tail, stop or brake and indicators mentioned in that fashion. Wire view should mean the side the wires enter the connection. Plug view would mean the other side, although they could use other terms for that. RHD and LHD grommets are the places to feed the wiring harness through on either a Right Hand Drive or a Left Hand Drive model. I suppose that SB could be blue, as I typically see BK listed for black, with BU for blue and BR for brown. You would need to check that out. Is there no colour legend listed on the pages?
  10. Mine was starting hard in the cold, and fine the couple of times I tried pouring hot water on the SCV before starting. Then I ran the tank almost empty and got diesel from a different place to usual. It started much better after that, although the weather was getting generally warmer, so I didn't have as many cold starts to tell with any certainty. When I eventually went back to my usual diesel, the starting has become a bit harder, although not as bad as before. Still, it is generally warmer in the mornings. So it could be that my diesel wasn't the best. Supermarket brand.
  11. You could use a cheap GY560 or GY561 test meter to sniff around your equipment for Bluetooth frequency radio signals, I suppose. They only just reach into the Bluetooth frequency range, according to the stated specs at 2.4GHz, with a higher frequency capable meter costing a good bit more. I would have to try to find my meter to see if it actually can sniff Bluetooth or not. Or you could just get a friendly member of your local ham radio club to check for you, as they will probably have access to one of those meters or better ones.
  12. I personally prefer diesels, but the government seem to be trying to make owners into pariahs. The same thing will happen to petrol, soon enough. Then everyone will be shepherded towards pure electric vehicles. Probably best to go for petrol or hybrid at the moment, or EV on contract if you want a new car. Especially if you want to go to the ULEZ zones, as Konrad mentioned.
  13. It will probably creep up over the miles, especially if you do any decent amount of motorway travel. It may also encourage you to think about the way you drive and use or waste the energy of your car's fuel. This could lead to a more economical driving style, or it could frustrate you into driving with a lead foot, lol. It goes both ways with me, I get easily bored by too much economical driving.
  14. Aftermarket addition, I think. That is where my traction control switch is on my 07. Maybe a bonnet/tailgate/fuel flap release, if one of the original releases were broken?
  15. When it stays at one reading, that would usually indicate a long term average over a lot of miles. When you reset, it will be a less accurate short term reading over a relatively short distance, for a while at least. As you add miles, it will again stabilise at a fairly accurate long term average. I used to reset every fill up to try to get an idea of miles per tank, but lately I have been letting mine run up a long distance average.