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Everything posted by paul9

  1. Is it a degrees, minutes and seconds notation? Then the coordinates would be with the first number from 0 to 360 degrees, the second from 0 to 59 minutes and the third from 0 to 59 seconds, probably with a decimal fraction. Not really sure if 60 would be a valid input on the minutes and seconds.
  2. paul9

    T27 Weird Thump

    I would have been suspecting the coil springs. Sometimes they fracture in places where it is hard to tell that they are cracked. Also worth checking your engine mounts.
  3. Air leaks in the intake path can make the ECU believe that the sensors are faulty, as they will change the amount of air the ECU thinks the engine is using. The ECU will measure out fuel based on the amount of air it thinks the engine is receiving, which will be the wrong amount. Then the engine burns rich or lean, and the ECU gets confused when it can't properly adjust the fuel trims. A dirty or faulty MAF sensor could cause similar problems. Just a couple of things to check on.
  4. paul9

    1mzfe swap?

    Not really the same, but I saw Mighty Car Mods on YouTube and they recently put a Corolla engine into a Yaris. They had issues with an engine mount and the ECU, I believe they had the original and and aftermarket one fitted. Maybe have a look at those videos to see the sort of issues you may have.
  5. Drain or change your fuel filter, if that is the water in the fuel filter warning light. The one about centre of the picture, underneath the oil light. That would be a good starting point.
  6. You could try a battery saver. You can get them pretty cheap on EBay for the type you use with another car battery, or a bit more expensive for the mains powered type.
  7. Quick tip, remove it while it is warm, if possible. The colder it is, the more likely plastic is to snap or crack.
  8. It should look similar to this photo, where you can see the high mark near the top of the bottle. The low mark was hidden behind the suspension turret.
  9. Well, most battery guarantees seem to be in the three to five years range. The green dot is more useful as a gauge of the electrolyte level, rather than a reliable indication of battery condition. If you have a spare twenty or thirty pounds burning a hole in your pocket, then a battery transconductance tester is fairly accurate in my experience. Mine is a Blueskysea make, but there are a few similar ones available. I don't know if Halfords, Kwikfit or the like will test your battery for you, if they think that they can sell you a new one.
  10. Strange, there should be high and low level markings on the brake fluid reservoir. Is it particularly dirty on the outside edges making it difficult to see any marks?
  11. RR RL FR FL are corners of the car, Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right and Front Left. Fog indicates the wire for the fog lights. You would also have reverse, tail, stop or brake and indicators mentioned in that fashion. Wire view should mean the side the wires enter the connection. Plug view would mean the other side, although they could use other terms for that. RHD and LHD grommets are the places to feed the wiring harness through on either a Right Hand Drive or a Left Hand Drive model. I suppose that SB could be blue, as I typically see BK listed for black, with BU for blue and BR for brown. You would need to check that out. Is there no colour legend listed on the pages?
  12. Mine was starting hard in the cold, and fine the couple of times I tried pouring hot water on the SCV before starting. Then I ran the tank almost empty and got diesel from a different place to usual. It started much better after that, although the weather was getting generally warmer, so I didn't have as many cold starts to tell with any certainty. When I eventually went back to my usual diesel, the starting has become a bit harder, although not as bad as before. Still, it is generally warmer in the mornings. So it could be that my diesel wasn't the best. Supermarket brand.
  13. You could use a cheap GY560 or GY561 test meter to sniff around your equipment for Bluetooth frequency radio signals, I suppose. They only just reach into the Bluetooth frequency range, according to the stated specs at 2.4GHz, with a higher frequency capable meter costing a good bit more. I would have to try to find my meter to see if it actually can sniff Bluetooth or not. Or you could just get a friendly member of your local ham radio club to check for you, as they will probably have access to one of those meters or better ones.
  14. I personally prefer diesels, but the government seem to be trying to make owners into pariahs. The same thing will happen to petrol, soon enough. Then everyone will be shepherded towards pure electric vehicles. Probably best to go for petrol or hybrid at the moment, or EV on contract if you want a new car. Especially if you want to go to the ULEZ zones, as Konrad mentioned.
  15. It will probably creep up over the miles, especially if you do any decent amount of motorway travel. It may also encourage you to think about the way you drive and use or waste the energy of your car's fuel. This could lead to a more economical driving style, or it could frustrate you into driving with a lead foot, lol. It goes both ways with me, I get easily bored by too much economical driving.
  16. Aftermarket addition, I think. That is where my traction control switch is on my 07. Maybe a bonnet/tailgate/fuel flap release, if one of the original releases were broken?
  17. When it stays at one reading, that would usually indicate a long term average over a lot of miles. When you reset, it will be a less accurate short term reading over a relatively short distance, for a while at least. As you add miles, it will again stabilise at a fairly accurate long term average. I used to reset every fill up to try to get an idea of miles per tank, but lately I have been letting mine run up a long distance average.
  18. I feel the same pain every time I have had a flat or disconnected battery. The alarm resests, so keep a copy of the instructions. Annoys the heck out of me when a passenger unclips the belt before the car stops and that !Removed! noise starts, lol.
  19. Well, the first video had a Italian (I think) car and the second video is a UK (Edinburgh registered) car. It may be a regional market thing?
  20. Changed alternator on a Polo a few months ago, and the new one smoked and died a minute or two after restarting. Luckily we still had the bonnet open and saw the puff of smoke, otherwise we would have had a worse time diagnosing. That was a reconditioned part from Eurocarparts. A scrapyard alternator went in afterwards and is still fine.
  21. If you have a multimeter and an idea of what you are doing, then it would be a good thing to check the switch and any related relay before you fire the parts cannon at what is still quite likely to be a bad motor. You could also try swapping the front and rear motor on the washer tank too see if the fault moves, if they are both the same. The Toyota Tech website or something similar is quite likely to have a parts list which you could use to see if the motors are the same, if you can't easily get to them.
  22. Mine runs fine on pure veg oil, not tried used oil, though. BUT it can be a pig to start in the morning, even on fifty fifty. And forget about it in the winter months.
  23. Almost certainly two motors as they run separately, and it would be easier than switching valves. Do you hear the motor running when you activate the rear wash?
  24. If it was Toyota Estima Owner's Club, then it wasn't me. 🙂 I had a loan of my uncle's one time and it was OK, but I went heavy on the fuel. Maybe my foot was a tiny bit heavy on the throttle, lol.
  25. Not sure what teoc is, but I've been on quite a few car, bike, games and tech forums as paul9. That one doesn't ring a bell, though. Not really sure if the cylinder head gasket issue was the two litre, the two point two or both, to be honest, but there was a problem and a warranty fix extension from Toyota. My 07 was an ex taxi for £800 and has been great. Currently on about 157000 miles.