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Everything posted by paul9

  1. That is commonly called the steering rack in English.
  2. Sorry, I meant the button on the fuel filter housing, not the fuel pump. The SCV is fitted to the pump.
  3. Try manually priming the fuel pump before starting where you would normally expect a hard start. This should provide an indication to help you decide if the fuel is leaking back. I'm assuming you know how to do that, but for anyone not apprenticing to a Toyota service department, there is a small black plastic button on the high pressure fuel pump. Press this button a few times, until it considerably stiffens up. If it starts off pretty stiff already, then I wouldn't immediately suspect that the fuel is leaking back. If it consistently starts easier when primed, then your check valves might help some. The SCV update requires an ECU software update. If you already have the upgraded valve fitted and are just replacing a tired valve, the software update is probably not needed, but it may be worthwhile checking your current version.
  4. You may need to look into Techstream for key programming.
  5. It may be achievable, but probably not long lasting, by the sound of things, lol.
  6. Check all the bolts are tight and then try moving the open door up and down to check for play from worn hinges. Compare it to to other doors to see if it is excessive.
  7. paul9

    User Manual

    Honestly, half of the manual will be warnings. Most of it common sense stuff that can no longer be assumed to be common sense, otherwise the manufacturer gets repeatedly sued by the stupid and the greedy. There would have been a lot fewer warnings in the manual from Morris.😂
  8. The starter should be a separate problem, I would think. Definitely test the relay, it could be intermittently faulty.
  9. Check your brake fluid level and condition. Check your wheels after a drive to see if any are hot which would indicate brakes sticking on. Be careful as if there are any sticking, the wheels can be very hot and burn you. I would suspect that the ABS code is causing the traction control and vehicle stability control lights to come on, and your power loss and fuel consumption to be a separate issue, not so likely to be sticking brakes, but they are quick and easy checks to rule out possible causes.
  10. It's good to hear that you have fixed your problem.
  11. Get a code reader on it, that would be a good starting point. I am assuming that there are no symptoms or driveability problems to indicate a possible cause.
  12. Maybe the IHI website have a contact link where you could ask them? It seems that they may know how their own naming scheme works.
  13. paul9

    Serpentine belt

    There have been threads discussing which replacement belt to get, I don't know if it was standard one for a non-AC model of Avensis, though. I think that there were some Dayco part numbers in the discussion.
  14. I would check all of the pipes and joints of the turbo system, where the air goes from the intake, through the filter, into the compressor and the intercooler and back to the engine. It could be that a split or a loose joint is letting the pressure escape intermittently. Also possible is that the vane control valve is sticking or bad, or the vacuum control solenoid or vacuum lines to the vane control valve have problems.
  15. Check your airpath and filter are fine. Carefully clean the airflow sensor wit MAF cleaner. If that end is fine, then check or replace the fuel filter, make sure that the tank pump is working okay, and then look at the high pressure pump and the suction control valves. That lot should keep you busy for a couple of hours.
  16. Yes, injectors need to be coded, but I believe they should still run, but inefficiently. Look into a Techstream diagnostic system, although the Delphi system can also code your injectors. Normally, you would put the injector back into the cylinder it came from and that would avoid the need to recode the system, except for new injectors.
  17. paul9

    AC Compressor

    There's a diagnostic built in to the aircon system, I personally can't remember how to access it, but I think the codes can show you if the refrigerant gas pressure is too low to start, although I would be suspicious of that clutch, myself. If you are in the UK, then Kwik Fit and some others will fill your system and not charge if they can't the aircon temperature down, subject to conditions. Also, they will not fill it if their machine detects a leak. I have used them as basically a free diagnostic in this case, but I was fully prepared (and hoping) to pay for a working AC system.
  18. That would be my second choice, as the mutt would be very disappointed in me if I didn't get something that would do double duty to help keep her from falling out of the car window. Again!🙄
  19. You can quickly get hold of the buckle types in pet shops, they sell dog restraints with the seatbelt clip on one end and a catch to fasten the dog's harness to on the other.
  20. The glowplugs look to be fairly easily accessible on the D4D engines, both for quick resistance checks and for replacement.
  21. It may be an option to turn it off with Techstream software.
  22. Mine is proving to be horribly reliable, and won't die to give me the excuse to buy a new car, lol. I got it as a stopgap when the turbo blew on my C5. You know what they say, a fix is only temporary unless it works. This thing, apart from a few minor things from when I got it, just works. Looking at a Land Rover Freelander next, but I am under no illusions whatsoever that it will be even nearly as trouble free as my eight hundred pounds, hundred and fifty thousand miles ex-taxi. 🤣
  23. I was wondering just how cold a climate you live in to warrant that kind of system. Berkshire doesn't strike me as being particularly needy of that, though, lol. Might be a good idea for the engine oil, too. I know that some planes used an oil preheat system.
  24. I'd change the fuel filter, as you intend, and clean the EGR valve, paying attention to the state of the inlet port it attaches to. It's amazing how many things cause the symptoms you have. Toyota seem to have been very conservative when programming that fault response.
  25. Initially lumpy running would suggest that either the starter motor, relay and solenoid are either fine, or you have an additional fault to address. Is the starter engaging quickly and does it seem to be turning the engine over at a decent rate?