Saxmaniac

I did stumble across this site, catstrap.co.uk , alarm plus special strap that's hard to cut. A bit pricey...

I think the motors actually run at about 600 volts, the inverter converts the 200v from the battery to 3 phase AC for the motors (just being a nerd)

Really you would need to see all the fault codes and live data whatever to do proper diagnosis. You never know whether the dealer is doing this properly or changing parts you may not need

On the mk2 you can see the fan blades easily so a soft brush and vacuum cleaner will clean them. Don't know about the mk1

Thanks for that, I'll go the same route, I'll no doubt ask the odd silly question about location!

I'd say that if you're using galvanised plate then use galvanised washers, there shouldn't be any corrosion as a result, but dissimilar metals in contact such as stainless and mild steel will cause corrosion in the presence of water, particularly salt water As an aside I was just wondering what people have done re tilt alarms. I assume there's not one built into the standard alarm already fitted? Any recommendations for a supplier?

I've had it on for at least 3 years and it hasn't slipped back, don't forget the bolts are done up pretty tight, I think I did 70nm or so

The one I fitted is a flat plate like that and the instructions were to put downward force on the plate while tightening the bolts. A touch crude but if you do that, it clears the exhaust, if not, you get clunks under heavy load as the engine rocks about

Is it mechanical vibrations or misfires? You probably need to look at live data on a scanner to see misfires, fuel trims whatever to gather clues

I made laminated catloc badges for front and rear screens in the hope that might be a mild deterrent. I fitted a pretty good eBay plate called Catloc-d, 1.2mm stainless I think, but not seen listing since. I was wondering whether welding lengths of steel rope to the plate might make it harder to saw through?

There was such a product for motorbikes, I can't remember the name, it went in as liquid and coated the inside of the tyres with a sort of gel that would prevent rapid deflation. There was some problems with causing out of balance forces so I never trusted such things. Surely the only sensible thing is the ol'school way of carrying a pump and a spare, refuse to buy a car without a spare

Jolly good writeup! I'll probably leave it another year or so as I'm really early to be doing it, but I'll still do it sooner than the official recommendations. I'll be doing brake fluid this year as well, probably just the non techstream method which will just change a portion of the fluid

I wouldn't risk eBay for stuff like this, big danger of counterfeit

Don't you have a spare wheel?

Thanks, I'm being sceptical about the recommended intervals but perhaps I'm being a bit extreme with doing it at 5 years and 60k, may leave it a bit longer. I'm still doing 5k engine oil changes though!