Saxmaniac

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Everything posted by Saxmaniac

  1. Toyota in general seems to have a better chance of lasting than most makes and I would certainly say to get the simplest machine to do the job. However modern tightening emissions laws are forcing manufacturers to make more complex cars with more tricky technology. So diesels got DPFs, more cars are getting direct injection, turbos whatever. The Toyota hybrids are proven over many years and whatever issues there are, are known. Also, the other types of vehicle still have alternators, clutches, belts, skimpy camchains, manual or auto boxes stuffed full of bits so on balance I'd go for the hybrid. Also, there's the extra mpgs to consider, I didn't want to go below 50mpg overall and Diesels are out of the question.
  2. The hybrids are complex and repairs would be expensive if you're stuck with the main dealers. However they're some of the most reliable and long lived cars on the market. However, with modern emissions legislation normal petrol cars are becoming less reliable with GDI engines, turbos, skimping on engineering. Also there's gearboxes, belts,clutches, alternators, stop start systems etc etc all sources of trouble! The Toyota hybrids were the only option. I was replacing an old Astra Cdti which was rock solid for nearly 200k but you simply can't but anything equivalent today
  3. Looks that way, Toyota's basic system goes back 20 years so Hyundai have thought about that weakness. It wouldn't put me off a Toyota but it's just something to be aware of and invest in a trickle charger if not using constantly
  4. If you're recharging the original 12v battery it was probably ruined by sitting discharged for a long time originally and won't hold charge. The only solution is to replace it but 12 batteries do need regular use to keep charged as they're smaller capacity than normal car batteries. There's also a small chance that there's a parasitic drain in the car but first thing is to simply renew the battery
  5. Any loose or missing fixings for the many underbody covers and even bumper fixings? There's no chance it could be a misfire? (Very long shot I I know)
  6. I know, I am probably over the top, I don't know how long it takes for the tinworm to start. Depends on the coating and the quality of the steel, but I've always liked to get rust protection in place, just being an old woman!
  7. That's not the same one I bought, mine is a flat stainless ventilated sheet. It looks very robust but the instructions state bending down the rear end to clear the cat! It seems like bodgery but ive not fitted it yet. Ebay number if you're interested 193351379983 I'm taking the opportunity to do wax injection of box sections subframe and suspension while the car's up in the air. Also a bit worried by electrolyic corrosion between the stainless plate and steel bodywork, so loads of chassis wax at contact points. Noted that most of the plastic rivets were very loose on the underside covers so fitting a load more of these after waxing. Also doing behind wheelarch liners, there's a big rust trap just behind the cover at the rear of the front wheel. Loads of dirt in here waiting to rust the lower wing, worth removing wheelarch liners every couple of years I think
  8. Hi Tony that sounds sensible, I assume they're not stretch bolts then? I'll look at the Peugeot wheel bolt idea though, this thing only uses the standard ones
  9. Being a cheapskate, I bought a non oem cat lock plate rather than give the dealer £250 Fitting involves removing and refitting triangular plates between subframe and chassis. Question is, does anyone know the torque setting for these bolts and also whether they're stretch bolts, ie one use only?
  10. Look on Prius chat forum in Gen 3 Prius, it seems to be a common problem related to egr cooler blocking causing mayhem. Needs proper diagnosis
  11. No, it's a completely separate system
  12. It's possible the battery is tired, 4 years old isa bit of a short life. The hybrid system only trickle charges the battery and would take a long time to recharge a low battery. Best put a charger on for a day, suitable for Agm battery. If you have a multimeter, measure voltage at the jump point I think it should be something like 12.8 when car shut down preferably have the battery properly load tested
  13. Is this a hybrid? If so the inverter cooling system is totally separate from the engine cooling system so that would cause check hybrid messages. Coolant needs to be there and circulating properly
  14. I've never had to regas aircon. Last car was Vauxhall astra, 14 years old, aircon was fine. I've always been religious about running it at least a few minutes a week all year round. Keeps the oil circulated and seals wet
  15. I believe you should connect charger to jump point under the bonnet so no need to get to the battery. Lift bonnet, lift fusebox lid on right, lift red cover to reveal jump connector which takes positive lead, find earth point on the body. You should trickle charge with the correct type of charger at least monthly probably best fortnightly. The main traction battery is ok for several months but top it up as above, running the system for at least 30 minutes. Check with Toyota website or owners handbook as I'm writing this from memory. Personally I'll be making sure I do 20 plus mile trips to get the engine fully warmed, batteries maintained. I can't infect anyone if I don't get out of the car!
  16. Ah very interesting. I didn't know about a gel inside as I understood that the HV to 12v converter was replaceable separately if that's the only faulty part. I'm only asking out of interest btw! I did read that on Gen 3 Prius which is same system, there was a problem with inverters in earlier models and there was a recall so perhaps this one was one of that dodgy earlier version
  17. Does anybody know whether the inverter converter is plug and play or does it have to be coded to the car?
  18. The rear one looks quite iffy, video moved through too quick to see front properly, can you not jack car up and take a view yourself? Best play safe though and replace anyway as the man sounds sensible
  19. If you look on YouTube for Weber Auto videos the prof there explains HSD in greatest detail and demonstrates with cut away transmissions. The engine spins continuously over a certain road speed to do prevent over revving mg1. It may or may not be providing power, that's decided by the computer
  20. Dinitrol products highly regarded, way better than Hammerite. A little more expensive but worth it. Another less well known one is https://www.bilthamber.com/ Probably on a par quality wise
  21. The whirring when opening the driver's door is the brake pump building pressure in the accumulator. It will do it as needed while driving. The braking system makes more whirs and clunks than the rest of the car! Odd random beeps might be speed camera warnings, it works from the satnav and gives advance warning. It can't be totally relied on nor can the speed sign recognition or emergency brake warning
  22. I think that's a quirk of the hybrid system, Auris makes some funny lurches against the parking pawl in the transmission. I love black as I had an astra for 10 years and you could touch up minor damage with any old paint and it hardly showed! It would be my first choice of colour. Would be interested to know brinm to brim economy and see how that compares with 1.8
  23. Saxmaniac

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    I love mine, I can see how some might not, lack of steering feel, throttle response etc, but if you don't want to tear around with the BMW loonies it's fine. I'm seeing best economy on motorway 60 to 70, loses a bit over that. Best tankfull did 67mpg, worst, 54mpg, depends on temperature and average length of journey. Your comment on the bonnet catch was interesting as it's the first thing I noticed, being the most appalling designed piece of floppy tat. It helps to get loads of grease round the slidy bits. The main dealer has ignored this and many other details including wheel nut torque so dealer service counts for nowt, you need to be proactive!
  24. If you look at Prius gen 3 on Prius chat, there's lots of knowledgeable people on there. It's mainly American based and if you read the posts about pre 2015 with over 100000miles you might be scared off! However, you don't hear of problems over here. I'd be inclined to change all fluids and filters, batt fan clean, strip manifold and egr system and clean out, strip and lubricate brakes to head off problems. Try to find if it consumes oil before buying. See how old the 12v battery is. I'm not an expert but did a load of research before buying mine. Hv battery should be good for a long time
  25. Look at Prius Chat forum it's packed full of posts from US owners who diagnose and repair their own. Auris is similar to 3rd Gen Prius, you can post questions and there's very knowledgeable people over there to help. I've haunted it for some time before buying as I wanted to understand how it works