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Saxmaniac

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Everything posted by Saxmaniac

  1. I was digging into rustproofing products and it does appear that lanolin based products work better than the rest. I have an old Astra that I dose with various rustproofing products. I've found that rust convertors of the sort that encapsulate the corrosion are not particularly effective, phosphoric acid based products seem more thorough at converting to phosphate. Waxoyl simply covers over the rust and it carries on merrily underneath. Dinitrol or Bilhamer products slightly better, but I'll give lanolin a go later this year. I think if rust is taking hold you've simply got to keep at it regularly to slow it down. 16 year old Vauxhall originally was better rustproofed than Toyota IMHO but still, subframes etc only had a lick of thin paint. (Not a recommendation for Vauxhall btw but some of their early 2000s cars were pretty good!)
  2. Probably better when dealers were independent small business rather than chains. Our local Toyota dealer used to be just that and had a great reputation, you could speak to someone who actually gave a .....! Those days are long gone 😭
  3. Funnily enough, my main dealer tends to underfill which I'm fine with. I only go to dealer because of guarantee but double check everything they do, plus extra maintenance myself that they simply don't do
  4. I've had it happen a couple of times, good battery, no obvious reason but I put it down to maybe inadvertently pressing the reset button
  5. When I built my Norton commandos engine years back I asked an ex Norton man how you could get to a couple of inaccessible head bolts with a torque wrench,he gave a cryptic answer that (not in so many words) a real engineer could feel when it's right. I also heard a secondhand tale that a Rolls Royce engineer would be sacked if found using a torque wrench! I would be interested to see the comments back in all that! Point is though, that as I said above, a vastly experienced engineet has that ability whereas a DIY person needs more help from a torque wrench. I trust myself with wheel nuts but do still use wrench as without, it's possible over time gradually to increase the torque without realising how your wheel nut muscles have developed!
  6. There's a difference between an experienced pro mechanic and a Diy amateur. The pro has the feel to torque up most bolts without needing torque wrench. An experienced amateur like me would use a torque wrench for critical things, suspension bolts, head bolts etc but not for sump plugs and oil filters as done hundreds. A beginner DIY might need more mechanical toys to help them along. Incidentally, I despair of any tyre place torquing wheel nuts correctly, I always just give them the wheels and fit them myself. The gorillas that work there don't use torque wrench but end up grossly overtightening them probably because they don't give a ****
  7. There's an old trick to diagnose a wheel bearing, jack up the front and hold the spring while rotating the wheel by hand. You'll feel bearing vibration amplified through the spring
  8. And the best place to connect the charger is in the underbonnet fuse holder, remove the rectangular red cover and there's a jump point blade type terminal
  9. I do exactly that with my 2018 auris and there's never been a problem even when it sat a forghtnight during lockdown
  10. I was suggesting European service intervals driven by the need to make the cars appear cheaper to maintain rather than what's best for the vehicle, I've been burned in the past believing manufacturers blurb about sealed for life transmissions for example. For the modest cost of doing extra fluid changes and all those other items the dealer doesn't do, I'd rather know that my vehicle is over maintained! Again, if people simply buy on a PCP and move on after 3 years, it doesn't matter. The results of good maintenance show long after the manufacturer has lost interest
  11. Yeah, I wonder if that's driven by marketing considerations rather than best maintenance for long life. After all, I believe we do more shorter journeys here than over there? I don't know, but on my vehicles I play safe and rather over maintain them. I'm one to keep them for their total economic life so maintenance important. If Toyota's schedule is so good, why do they not even mention battery filter and fan on hybrids? (Mine went through PDI and 2 services with a blatantly faulty headlamp though that's due to a rubbish dealer )
  12. Car care nut channel in USA is a Toyota master tech giving loads of advice, he's recommending break in oil change at 1000 miles plus adamant about 5k oil changes unless the car does nothing else than starting every day and running long distances which is not the norm for most people. He's advising for people who want to keep the car long term, and the manufacturer recommended intervals are partly driven by marketing concerns and are the minimum needed to get the car through the expected lifetime. It's up to you whether you regard this as OTT, and if you simply keep a car a few years and move it on, it's not your problem if it's burning oil at 150k. So it's up to you in the end. Years ago,on new cars and bikes with magnetic sump plugs it was normal to see iron filings on the plug, this reduces with every oil change as parts bed in
  13. Just a couple of small points. In the last few days it's been stated in press that Bevs are proving less reliable than petrol or diesel, more due to tech rather than mechanical problems and much harder and longer off the road. Full hybrids were the most reliable type of all vehicles. A documentary attempted to analyse full life CO2 production including electricity generation (can't remember what percent renewable) and manufacturing, battery manufacturing and rare metal mining for bev vs fossil fuel, conclusion was Bev saved 25% CO2 emissions, so not as carbon free as you might think. Battery development is going on at a fast pace so a few more years might make Bevs more practical. I'd like to see something with a very long design life and possible to repair economically, this of course is the opposite of most modern manufactured goods, so my next vehicle will be a horse and cart
  14. There's possibly a problem with Suzuki dealers mechanics less familiar with a Toyota product than Toyota. Personally I prefer the look of the Suzuki, much less busy and garish, but there appears to be more advantage sticking with Toyota despite the looks
  15. I leave the heater off in cold weather for a couple of miles. This prevents the engine running purely to warm the cabin. When the engine gets warm from driving, then the heater goes on. Saves a teeny weeny bit of fuel!
  16. I fitted a stainless plate to mine, 3mm I think, eBay purchase but haven't seen them since! About £100. I was very careful about galvanic corrosion, fitted big fibre washers between the plate and any mild steel car bodywork, also masses of chassis wax over contact points. Peugeot wheel bolts as recommended by TonyHSD
  17. Car care nut channel is a good source of info about meticulous maintenance, he advises 60k but the benefit is really from removing metal particles and any other contaminants, though there's no ratio swapping or clutches in there
  18. I think as stated above, just drive as you would any other car when you don't want to waste fuel. Light acceleration, brake early. Economy drops with speed as wind drag rises exponentially, 55 - 60mph seems good compromise. Let the computer do all the thinking, you can't out guess it, some clever oriental gentleman spent 20 years developing it🤪
  19. Is it the main dealer who says there's no fault codes? It needs to be a suitable code reader not any old generic thing. And they seem to want you to pay for their guess it might be fuel pump?? Wants proper diagnosis, what about trying a different main dealer, or get a suitable code reader yourself? I believe a Bluetooth obd adapter and an app called Hybrid Assistant is suitable and the setup would cost less than £30. You could then find codes and live data and at least be armed against dealer BS when you go
  20. That's a lucky car to have such a fastidious owner 😇. Are there any other parts you've changed over time? And how often have you done brake fluid?
  21. Saxmaniac

    2ZR FE

    you're probably right though I'm happier letting the engine run continuosly for long periods when at motorway speeds. It's under ideal conditions, no starting and stopping, fully to temperature etc. All this is just guesswork but I'm happy changing oil too often! I'm not suggesting anyone else needs to do the same
  22. Saxmaniac

    2ZR FE

    The thing about oil consumption in Auris is really coming from the 3rd generation Prius where 2010 to 2014 commonly had oil burning starting past 100k miles. I know I'm ott with doing 5k oil changes as I don't give it what would be considered hard use, however, the world needs a few eccentrics🥳 A few years ago I had a motorbike that specified 6k oil changes and I took 3 years to run that up. The smell of petrol contaminating the oil was shocking even though it looked clean
  23. Saxmaniac

    2ZR FE

    Toyota recommend 11 months or 10k miles whichever comes first so you would end up doing it every 5k anyway. There's a lot of debate on this but personally I do 5k intervals even if I'm throwing money away! Oil burning was due to gummed up piston rings but Toyota redesigned pistons and rings round 2015 so there may not be such a big problem on later ones. Car care nut channel is worth looking at, he's a Toyota master tech, though most of what he says is for US models
  24. How many miles has it done?
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