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mrfixer last won the day on August 14 2019

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About mrfixer

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    Avensis 1.8 Auto
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  1. Yes, I specifically referred to the 1AZ-FE.
  2. I spend at least half the year in Thailand where Toyota is the market leader. Gasohol has been popular for at least 15 years and its now difficult to find normal gasoline. Most cars run on 91 RON E10, which is due to go to E20 from the middle of this year. My Camry (5S-FE) has done 400k km on E10 with no problems. There are many Toyota with 1AZ-FE engine and I don't hear of any problems.
  3. Judder when applying power is usually down to driveshaft CV joints. Should be fairly easy to check...
  4. Power is switched to the foglight via a relay under the dash. You should hear it clicking when you turn the light on and off. Low voltage at the bulb indicates a bad contact somewhere in the feed or maybe a bad earth connection.
  5. Klarius exhaust parts ( are reasonable quality and you should be able to buy in Sweden. Be careful with Autodoc - many parts are OK but some parts are very poor quality.
  6. A new aftermarket driveshaft for your Avensis is around £40. Front lower wishbones are a common failure point. New aftermarket ones are about £60 a pair. The ABS sensor itself is probably OK. So around £100 in parts and not more than about 2 hours labour to fit. I would definitely repair it.
  7. This includes the catalytic converter and so seems a fair price to me. Do you actually need the catalyst in addition to the exhaust system? The catalyst accounts for probably about £150. Normally only individual boxes and pipes need replacing, as required. Has the complete system rotted out?
  8. Yes, it is possible you received some bad fuel but normally water or Diesel contamination would result in some misfiring or excessive smoking. If the engine runs smoothly and there is no unusual smoke then the fuel maybe OK. An engine that runs smoothly but lacks power could be the result of the catalyst collapsing and partly restricting the exhaust. Also feel the centre of each wheel after driving. One that is hotter than others indicates a sticking brake.
  9. First of all, the warranty you bought does not absolve the selling dealer of responsibility. He has a responsibility under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Go back to him and discuss the issue. Secondly you need to get it looked at by a Diesel specialist who can do proper diagnostics. There is no short-cut around this. That includes monitoring of live data from the engine, measuring fuel pressure etc etc. A 'poke and hope' approach will not work. Look for a well-reviewed Diesel specialist in your local area.
  10. The item ships from China. Its possible to buy similar from EU suppliers at a similar price - might be quicker delivery. None of these H1/H7 etc LED bulbs are E-marked and therefore they are not approved for road use. They will work of course - but beam pattern may not be quite correct. In the UK the MoT tester is likely to pass them if the beam is within limits - other countries might be more strict (e.g. TUV in Germany).
  11. I don't think WD40 will help a lot. Its a water displacing product, not a solvent. In Sweden you should be able to buy Liqui Moly LM 2427 Pro-Line Engine Flush 500 ml. Get the engine hot. Add the LM2427. Drive the car a few kilometres - use high rpm fequently. Then drain the oil and replace along with new filter.
  12. Yes definitely. Check the metal brake pipes to the rear brakes at the rear wheel arch. They suffer corrosion where they run near to the arch liner. Replace the metal front to rear pipes. Metal brake pipe is cheap - its just the cost of labour than can make it a bit pricey if you can't DIY (its actually pretty easy DIY if you have experience bending and flaring brake pipe).
  13. Nipparts are a parts distributor and source from a variety of manufacturers. Brake parts are important and not very expensive. It is better to buy from well known manufacturers. TMD Group are good - their brands include Mintex, Textar, Don etc. Personally I have fitted hundred+ of sets of Mintex without a problem.
  14. I would first of all check the engine mounts...
  15. This is a facelift model. If regularly serviced these will last a very long time and be problem free. This car will need one important repair doing ASAP. Both front-to-rear brake pipes will need replacing because they have corroded at the back. They all do it. The pipe itself is very cheap so if you can DIY then its no problem. If you need a garage to do it then it will be a couple hous labour plus brake bleeding etc.