mrfixer

You used the wrong grease. You need to use the heavy grease that I specified. Over time your new shaft will likely start to make a noise. You mark the shaft prior to removal not just for steering wheel alignment but to ensure the shaft is refitted in exactly the same orientation as it was removed. If you separate the splined coupling you must reassemble it exactly as it was previously. I have done this repair on quite a few Toyotas. I am not an amateur. Retired now but I am 30+ years professional technician, VOSA/DVSA MoT tester and trainer and ran my own vehicle sales/service business.

I posted on August 11th how to resolve this problem. Put the steering in the 'locked' position and mark the lower joint with Tipp-Ex so you can refit in the same position. The lower shaft is easy to remove (5 minutes) and then coat the splines with THICK grease. You may need to do this every year or two. There is no need to buy a new shaft. Its a common Toyota problem and I have fixed a few cars..

Thanks. Interested in spark plug change intervals. Are they iridium plugs?

Many thanks. Was useful.

Would anyone have a link to a table/spreadsheet showing the service schedule for the 2014-on Aygo?

Can't you just use valve extensions?

I can't view your video, but yes the car should start up at 2000rpm and slowly drop to about 750rpm as it warms up. Could be a faulty coolant temp sensor. I would put Techstream on it and look at live data (coolant temp, air temp, percent throttle open).

Lambda is well above one (very lean mixture). O2 is high and CO is low at 0.0 I would start by doing a careful inspection of the exhaust pipe - looking for a hole.

Any cat is potentially vulnerable but thieves mostly target hybrids or 4x4's (the latter on account of ground clearance). An Avensis would be extremely low risk.

Noisy AC pulley bearing - its the bearing that allows the compressor pulley to spin freely when the compressor clutch is not engaged. The bearing locks along with the pulley when the compressor clutch is engaged. You should be able to replace the clutch/pulley assembly.

Most engine wear and oil degradation occurs during engine warm-up phase. So much depends on the how the car is used. 6000 miles could be 12x 500 miles journeys or 1000x 6 mile journeys. If the former then the oil would be like new, if the latter then I would change. I have several cars. My T25 1.8 is used for long high speed journeys (seldom driven less than 15 miles) - the oil always looks clean. The Mitsubish Colt I use several times a day to crawl around town for 2-3 mile journeys turns the oil dirty after a few months. Neither burns any oil and I use the same oil in both (Shell Helix fully syth 5W-30).

See a few failures on LED light units. I think the LEDs themselves are extremely long-lived but the problem seems to be failure of the soldered connections inside the light unit. Unfortunately it is virtually impossible to take the unit apart to attempt a repair. Only cheaper solution is to get hold of a secondhand unit. Another possibility it to buy a couple of aftermarket drl strips for about £25 and fit them on the lower part of the bumper and give them an ignition feed. Would that satisfy the NI regulations?

Only if its leaking.

Not dual mass.

Flywheel 36ftlb + 90 degrees. Would suggest some blue Loctite on the threads. Clutch 14ftlb