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mrfixer

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Everything posted by mrfixer

  1. You used the wrong grease. You need to use the heavy grease that I specified. Over time your new shaft will likely start to make a noise. You mark the shaft prior to removal not just for steering wheel alignment but to ensure the shaft is refitted in exactly the same orientation as it was removed. If you separate the splined coupling you must reassemble it exactly as it was previously. I have done this repair on quite a few Toyotas. I am not an amateur. Retired now but I am 30+ years professional technician, VOSA/DVSA MoT tester and trainer and ran my own vehicle sales/service business.
  2. I posted on August 11th how to resolve this problem. Put the steering in the 'locked' position and mark the lower joint with Tipp-Ex so you can refit in the same position. The lower shaft is easy to remove (5 minutes) and then coat the splines with THICK grease. You may need to do this every year or two. There is no need to buy a new shaft. Its a common Toyota problem and I have fixed a few cars..
  3. Thanks. Interested in spark plug change intervals. Are they iridium plugs?
  4. Would anyone have a link to a table/spreadsheet showing the service schedule for the 2014-on Aygo?
  5. I can't view your video, but yes the car should start up at 2000rpm and slowly drop to about 750rpm as it warms up. Could be a faulty coolant temp sensor. I would put Techstream on it and look at live data (coolant temp, air temp, percent throttle open).
  6. Lambda is well above one (very lean mixture). O2 is high and CO is low at 0.0 I would start by doing a careful inspection of the exhaust pipe - looking for a hole.
  7. Any cat is potentially vulnerable but thieves mostly target hybrids or 4x4's (the latter on account of ground clearance). An Avensis would be extremely low risk.
  8. Noisy AC pulley bearing - its the bearing that allows the compressor pulley to spin freely when the compressor clutch is not engaged. The bearing locks along with the pulley when the compressor clutch is engaged. You should be able to replace the clutch/pulley assembly.
  9. Most engine wear and oil degradation occurs during engine warm-up phase. So much depends on the how the car is used. 6000 miles could be 12x 500 miles journeys or 1000x 6 mile journeys. If the former then the oil would be like new, if the latter then I would change. I have several cars. My T25 1.8 is used for long high speed journeys (seldom driven less than 15 miles) - the oil always looks clean. The Mitsubish Colt I use several times a day to crawl around town for 2-3 mile journeys turns the oil dirty after a few months. Neither burns any oil and I use the same oil in both (Shell Helix fully syth 5W-30).
  10. See a few failures on LED light units. I think the LEDs themselves are extremely long-lived but the problem seems to be failure of the soldered connections inside the light unit. Unfortunately it is virtually impossible to take the unit apart to attempt a repair. Only cheaper solution is to get hold of a secondhand unit. Another possibility it to buy a couple of aftermarket drl strips for about £25 and fit them on the lower part of the bumper and give them an ignition feed. Would that satisfy the NI regulations?
  11. Flywheel 36ftlb + 90 degrees. Would suggest some blue Loctite on the threads. Clutch 14ftlb
  12. It will be absolutely fine.
  13. Best buy is 2006-2008 (facelift) 1.8 vvti. They are very reliable if they have been regularly serviced. Check for corrosion underneath (depends on the climate in your country).
  14. There should be a three pin connector to the wiper motor. One terminal will be an ignition-switched live. One is 12V supply switched by the wiper stalk. The third terminal is ground. Switch the ignition on and wiper off and use your voltmeter to check for 12V between one of the terminals and a known good earth. Other two terminals should show 0V. Now switch the rear wiper on. You should now find another terminal is at 12V. Finally the third terminal is the motor ground. Use your meter's resistance range to check for continuity between this terminal and a known good ground.
  15. The steering column actually has two sliding splined couplings. One near the top to permit column 'reach' to be adjusted and then one on the lower shaft. Normally it is the lower one that knocks and it is not necessary to replace the shaft. Just disconnect the lower shaft, slide the coupling apart and coat the splines with some very thick grease such as Lucas X-TRA. The grease gets into the gaps around the splines and damps the knocking sound. Knocking from the column splines seems to be relatively common on Toyotas. Its annoying but not dangerous.
  16. Knocking through the steering is possible play in the inner or outer tie rod ends. This should be fairly easy to spot for an experienced mechanic and likely to manifest itself most when driving on a rutted road. Wear in the rack is normally experienced as free play about the centre position. If the steering system has no play in it, but a single click or knock is experienced when turning the wheel left or right when stationary or at low speed then that's most likely a little play in the column splined sliding coupling. Try moving the column to a slightly different rake/reach to see if it changes.
  17. If the car is up on the lift then you can reach up from underneath. Personally I have no trouble from above, and I'm a big bloke with big hands. You don't have to pull the nut clear of the locking pin - that would be difficult. If an assistant lifts the clutch pedal up to its stop then that causes the cable outer (with the nut) to move back from the bracket. The nut is then clear of the locking pin and there is no load on it. It should turn very easily with the fingers.
  18. Under the two brake selector cables. I can see the gear selector cable gaiters clearly in your photo. Reach down, touch them and follow them back to the cable retaining bracket. Then reach behind the bracket and under the gear selector cables. The plastic nut is there. Its hard to describe but really easy and obvious once you've done it.
  19. Most tyre outlets would have TR418's on the shelf. But you could buy yourself a couple off eBay and take them with you....
  20. Easy enough to drop the bite point. Have an assistant lift the clutch pedal up against the stop. In the engine compartment, reach down with your right hand between the battery tray and A/C pipes and under the gear selector cables. You should be able to feel the big fluted plastic 'nut' on the clutch cable. To drop the bite point rotate it CLOCKWISE (assuming you are standing in front of the car looking at the windscreen). One complete turn drops the bite point by about 6mm. When completed, have your assistant release the pedal and then try it a few times with engine on to see how it feels.
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