CorollaMan1

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About CorollaMan1

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    anonymous
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla
  • Toyota Year
    1999
  • Location
    Cheshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi can anyone give me the name or a link to the part for a blower motor resistor for my vehicle or tell me the name/brand/model I am looking for. The interior heater/ac fan in my car only blows at approximately 1/3 of the maximum it should although I can still turn it up and down. A YouTube mechanic seems to think the 'blower motor resistor' being faulty causes these symptoms. Is this the same thing as a heater fan resistor? I am trying to buy a new one but don't know what to Google.
  2. Oil has been fine it had a full service back in October and have been checking it every week since due to the amount of mileage im putting on it, I had read on the forum there can be an oil drinking issue. I have done over a hundred miles today and no warning light recurrence as of yet. I know there is a pinhole blow in the exhaust so maybe it was a combination of that and it being freezing last night. I'll live in hope untill it recurs.
  3. Hi thanks for the advice above. The obd2 says the only fault code was P0133 which the little book thingy says 02 sensor slow response. I don't know if this is indicative of anything else or if this is what caused it. I have cleared the code for now. What do you think is this a red herring or could that actually be what caused it? Weird that toyota would choose to switch the traction control and vcs off for such an error.
  4. I have had this fault appear on my car this evening and was looking for some advice. I am going to pick up an ODBII reader tomorrow but I'm just wondering if all engine management faults cause the VSC and traction control lights to come on with this car or if this is something specific to certain problems. Also if the lights are on is my VCS and traction control currently not functioning? I've not noticed anything wrong with the car, still running as it has been. I checked the fuel cap was on ok and left the car off for an hour and checked and the lights are still there. Car has never skipped a beat in the 3 months I've had it and been driving between 5 and 600 miles a week. Oil level is fine, no leaks anywhere, the engine isn't misfiring. I'm praying its something of nothing as I am very financially challenged at this moment in time. Your help and advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  5. What is slippage or the engine slipping? I think this is where I am struggling. What does it sound, look or feel like when the clutch slips? I thought that it was when you put your foot down the revs rise but the car doesn't accelerate straight away or feels laggy. So just to make sure I understand go about 30mph in 4th gear, take my foot off the accelerator and then press my clutch in, wait a second then release the clutch so it goes back in gear, then watch if the revs rise? What will I notice if its slipping, a delay in the revs rising straight away? How subtle is it? Sorry for the 20 questions.
  6. The guy I bought my avensis from said that the car needed a new clutch. I thought I felt the clutch slip when I first drove it home when I was in 3rd but Im not able to recreate it. Took it out for 3 days now on the roads and dual carriageways to try and there is no slipping. It pulls well in every gear and the rev counter is in sync with my speed even whem I floor it. The bite feels high to me and the pedal feels spongy/creaky and makes a sound like an old barn door when I press the pedal and it is maybe 2/3's of the way through the motion. It doesn't feel like the clutch on my Corolla. My local independents have quoted between 300-500 for the clutch replacement which im happy to pay but everyone is too busy round here to do diagnostics. I have provisionally booked it in with a kwik fit plus for a road test as the guy said to me if its not slipping it probably doesn't need replacing but slave cylinders are a common issue on this car. (1.8 vvti). So I don't know what to do. Happy to replace the clutch but its stupid to waste money
  7. Decent thanks for that. Doesnt sound too bad. I've been looking for the parts and can get a LuK clutch kit on Euro Car Parts for 88 quid with a promo code. So 150-200 in labour £300 seems like a good price to aim for. Will be ringing round a few Bolton garages tomorrow! Is there anything else I should be getting done whilst the gearbox is out? Ask them to change the gearbox oil or anything? The guy who sold it to me said he sometimes struggles getting it into 1st but thats probably related to the clutch maybe? I haven't experienced it myself and drove it around for a couple of hours today.
  8. So today I took the plunge and purchased my new baby for the princely sum of £450 from ebay. The handbrake is ridiculously high and it needs a couple of new tyres but the main issue is the clutch definitely needs doing. The bite is at the very top and resting my foot on it without engaging I can feel it if you know what I mean. What are the ball park figures for a clutch replacement for this car? Also can anyone recommend an independent toyota garage that could do a full inspection and diagnostic on the vehicle. In warrington or the surrounding areas.
  9. Thanks for all the advice. I've held off on making the purchase and am now looking for a newer than 2006 petrol. I'll save a few more hundred quid to get it. Feels like I've dodged a bullet so very greatful!
  10. They also have a 2004 1.8 VVT-i T3-X for £900 that has 109k on the clock, and a 2005 petrol for 1k. I have been reading just now about head gasket issues with the diesel model. Is it the same with the petrol? and how common is the fault? The alternative is a Volvo S40 1.6D. All these are from the same dealer he has good reviews for his cheap cars. Almost every Taxi of this age is a Diesal Avensis in my home town, I thought there must be a reason but the head gasket thing is putting me off as I may not be able to tell on a test drive.
  11. I'm looking for some advice on buying the car in the title as I plan to purchase it tomorrow. What should I look for when viewing is there any glaring issues with this car that I should know about or look out for. I needed a bigger car as I have just started a new career as a private hire taxi driver and am currently paying £200 per week to rent a 2003 Ford Focus C-Max with about 250k miles on the clock. It drives like an absolute pig. I'm relatively skint at the moment being only a month in to this new endeavour but I've managed to squirrel away a grand that I am using to take a punt on a car that will hopefully last longer than the 5 weeks it will take to pay for itself. I have come across the car in the title, it has 137k miles on it but looks clean, has a full service history up to 90k then nothing after that. It is 1k exactly. I'm really really tempted but don't want to buy a lemon.
  12. Hi Everyone, Just wanted to update you on say thanks again for your assistance. I managed to get a reconditioned alternator and fitted it this morning. The bottom bolt was eventually removed with a breaker bar after almost shearing the nut. Also had fun when the serpentine belt almost fully came off so spent an hour carefully rerouting it back round. Im happy to say that the the main parasitic drain has been resolved, still have that 0.5 amp drain but thats one for another day. The ABS and brake fault has gone as well so whoever suggested the problems where related you were right. I was ready for scrapping this car this week after it has served me for 30000 miles over the last two years. I paid the princely sum of £300 off the old gent I bought it from. It has sailed through both its MOTs with nothing but a wiper blade and a wheel bearing. To have managed to fix it for a total of £80 (£20 for the breaker bar, £60 + my faulty alternator for the reconditioned one) has made my week. And I'm glad I found the forum too. Cheers
  13. Thanks again guys for your useful info. Can't believe that the fellas at the garage sent me on my merry way with that kind of voltage going into a brand new full battery. I am trying to remove the alternator as we speak. Managed to get the top bolt off that connects it but really struggling with the bottom one. I have been using wrenchs. But went for a walk to get a socket set, im wondering if im trying the wrong way as i have broken the socket wrench thing trying to undo it. I am pulling up towards me so trying to turn the bolt anti clockwise to get it off. Should I be going clockwise for this bolt and pushing down on the wrench. The socket head is now stuck on so going to have to find a way to get it off. I'm a big fella and have nearly put my back out with this bolt. There is a guy who reconditions alternators nearby who said he could repair it tomorrow morning for 50 quid! As you say it looks pretty easy to change just wish I had a breaker bar or something.
  14. Thanks for your help thus far fellas. I did as you suggested and disconnected the alternator and sure enough the drain dropped to 0.5 amps which I understand is fairly normal. I also did some checks with the car running now I have the multimeter and the alternator is charging the battery at 16v. With the heaters, radio, indicators and lights this drops to 14v. Is 16v too high to be charging a battery? This new battery seems to be a bit wet on top even after i dried it off previously. Im hoping it isn't battery acid leaking out of the top of the battery. Now that I know what the issue is, seen as the alternator is charging the battery whilst the engine is on, is there any harm in just disconnecting the negative when not in use untill I can source and fit a new alternator? Still have the abs/brake light issue to try and sort hopefully the diagnostic thing will tell me what the issue is tomorrow.
  15. Hi There, I have ordered a diagnostic reader off amazon so should be here tomorrow it was only a cheapo 8 quid one I am hoping that it will show me the fault so I have an idea what could be wrong. The fault lights were actually clear today since the battery had been fully flat for several hours. I drove about 8 miles after the car started and they came back on. Have checked brake fluid and all is ok. On the subject of the parasitic drain. I have a drain of around 4 amps when testing the current! (Watched a couple of YouTube vids first). The thing is I have puled out most of the fuses and the draw is still there. There are 3 fuses I am really struggling to get out. The 100 amp alternator fuse, the 50 amp abs fuse and the starter fuse. These are the big blue square one at the top and the two rectangular ones (top left in pic). Any advice on how to get these out. The rectangular ones the plastic case on top of the fuses comes off but even with pliers on the plastic casing they wont come out. Do I need to remove the white assembly that they are sat in first?