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Tintaglia last won the day on May 27 2019

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    Yaris 1.33
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  1. 😄 My daughter still has her old MK 1 Spirit but it is a 1.3 so it's pretty good! (And her A/C is still perfect too even after 19 years!) Got to look at mine today and had it jacked up and I followed all the pipes in all directions with a big bright LED light. I even checked underneath the dash and carpet for any marks of oil or any other kind and it is all pristine. Except for this pipe from the compressor to the driver's side of the condenser. It has a dark mark showing on it. I don't think I have moved it about much although it looks a bit like I have. There is also a single blue mark but that looks more like dry coolant to me. Does anyone recognise this as a classic A/C leak? I unbolted the condenser end of the pipe to get the pic because the mark is facing downwards. It certainly did have zero gas in it as I had already checked.
  2. I don't fancy diy topping up. Looks a bit haphazard to me. I spent years in the motor trade before I retired so I always want to be in charge of any dismantling that goes on with my cars. The gas has already escaped so I will find out where, fix it if I can and have the correct weight, pressure and oil added by a specialist afterwards. 🙂 In my day we sent out A/C work or had cars de-gassed and re-gassed after our work was complete. I don't keep the A/C permanently on like others but I do deliberately put it on every few days including in winter, plus the car 'selects' it fairly regularly depending what heating/defrosting combo is selected.
  3. Yes I get that but from what I've read gas leaks are not always visible unless there are oil stains around the leak and I can't seen any so far. I will have to get it UV dye or pressure tested if I can't track it down.
  4. Thanks Tom. It was fine. When it was working, if you put it on the coldest it would get about as cold as my VW or any other car I have had in the past. I'm not an A/C guy so I just felt the slightly larger of the two hoses on the O/S and it felt a bit squishy so I tried the obvious valve. Once it had done its little weak sigh I could push the valve all the way in and it spoke no more. I could tell just by pressing the valve in the first place that there almost zero pressure there. I should say that although mine is a 2014 it is the very last of the old model so the later ones could be different. Just went out and took a photo and noticed the large H on the cap! I guess it was the HP side.. 😄 Looking at the pic it's shocking how much surface rust 8 years by the sea causes. Look at those bolts and that engine mounting. Time for some dismantling and painting I think!
  5. Thanks for the reply. 👍 When it stops raining I will jack it up and take the all the plastic shrouds off and try and see a bit more. Do you know how the condenser comes out? It looks a bit awkward from the top.
  6. Does anyone know of any common places for leaks? I know it's all gone since when I carefully (gloved hand and eye protection) pressed the valve, all I got was a slight sigh. I have looked all around with a torch and there is no signs of oil staining anywhere including all the pipework from the compressor I can see and the condenser radiator. I haven't jacked it up yet nor checked under the dash. It was perfect one day and not working the next so I presume it must be a pretty drastic leak. I'm guessing it's the rad but I can't see anything obvious. I'd like to do any work myself (retired mechanic) but by no means an A/C specialist. Would one of the mobile guys come and do a leak test do you think?
  7. Had the same thing with our Yaris when we got it 2019. I ended up getting an second hand but unused space saver for £40 from ebay. Never used it since and if I do it will only be for the short trip to the nearest tyre shop!
  8. I used the original bolts with soft mild steel washers which isn't ideal. I should have replaced the bolts with some pan-headed ones. But it has completely cured the problem. And isht now shuts better than ever. I have known this car from new (I used to maintain it for the original owner before my daughter bought it) so I know that it has never had rear damage. It must make life hard for a bodyshop after a rear end shunt or when fitting a new seal.
  9. No spoiler on mine. The two bolts are countersunk and going into a fixed thread so they find themselves a dedicated position as they tighten and it can't be altered by the usual loosening and moving the plate about. I checked that the equivalent movement couldn't be found by moving the latch or even the tailgate itself but it is simply fixed. In the end I drilled out the countersinking and used a couple of washers under the bolts which worked perfectly. I didn't really like it but I could see no alternative. Still, the car is 18 years old and on 98k!
  10. I wanted to adjust the rear latch on my daughter's 2003 Spirit Mk 1 today because only slamming the door violently would close it fully and it was causing central locking issues but I was surprised to find none of the usual sliding semi-captive nuts or slotted holes for the adjustment of the striker plate. Is there a special Toyota trick I've missed? 🙂 The lock itself doesn't adjust/slide either.
  11. Thanks for the pics Bob, I'd forgotten all about the second switch, dooh! No stop/start on my 1.33 so the lower switch purely does the 'press the clutch fully down to start' thing and can be easily defeated as happened to the OP. I still think the ECU uses the other switch to know where the pedal is to improve gearchanges (which it makes a horrible job of). On VW's, a faulty clutch switch can lead to snatchy gearchanges, and sometimes high idle speed too. As an experiment, in the past I have tried driving mine with this second switch plunger taped in, and then with the switch removed from the pedal but left connected. This was all in the past in an effort to improve the well known throttle hanging business. Oddly enough neither had the desired effect but adding a couple of washers under the switch did as I described here. It's still not perfect but I'm putting up with it. One thing I have noticed is that it is tharms.t it improves as the engine which intrigues me. I still haven't got my Techstream cable working so I can't try and check the coolant sensor or much else. Note - The second (upper) clutch switch isn't a safety device! That's the lower one.
  12. Well I'm with Scannerman on the function of the clutch switch. If the OP's mechanic physically taped up the switch so that the spring loaded plunger on the switch was held in the compressed position, then the result would be that the clutch pedal would think it was in the 'up' position, ie not being pressed and the car wouldn't start so that would be a pointless bodge. So something is not quite right here irrespective of hypothetical insurance infringements. I know this broadens out the original question a bit but regarding cruise control- Pressing the clutch pedal disengages cruise control but this requires that the ECU gets the 'disengage' signal with only the lightest touch on the clutch pedal (before the clutch slips). Therefore the ECU clearly must 'know' both the up and down positions of the clutch pedal. Actually I think the functions of the clutch switch are quite a bit deeper than that. I wonder what exactly what has been taped? A good bright torch up under the pedals might reveal all!
  13. Just in case this thread gets closed, for my part, I want to make it quite clear that I couldn't care less about what insurance companies think. My particular beef is the same as the original poster, which was a simple question about unnecessary beeps.
  14. No, this 'warning' is only to tell you that you have left your keys in the ignition in case you have forgotten. I have no problem with genuine warnings as long as they are brief and quiet, even if repeated if you don't comply. I will know by that time that I have left the key in the ignition, or forgotten to put my seat seat belt on, no need to bash me over the head with it! I'm hoping for sanity that Flash is going to explain the B-pillar trick a bit more!
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