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Tintaglia last won the day on May 27 2019

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About Tintaglia

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    Yaris 1.33
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  1. Well I'm with Scannerman on the function of the clutch switch. If the OP's mechanic physically taped up the switch so that the spring loaded plunger on the switch was held in the compressed position, then the result would be that the clutch pedal would think it was in the 'up' position, ie not being pressed and the car wouldn't start so that would be a pointless bodge. So something is not quite right here irrespective of hypothetical insurance infringements. I know this broadens out the original question a bit but regarding cruise control- Pressing the clutch pedal disengages cruise con
  2. Just in case this thread gets closed, for my part, I want to make it quite clear that I couldn't care less about what insurance companies think. My particular beef is the same as the original poster, which was a simple question about unnecessary beeps.
  3. No, this 'warning' is only to tell you that you have left your keys in the ignition in case you have forgotten. I have no problem with genuine warnings as long as they are brief and quiet, even if repeated if you don't comply. I will know by that time that I have left the key in the ignition, or forgotten to put my seat seat belt on, no need to bash me over the head with it! I'm hoping for sanity that Flash is going to explain the B-pillar trick a bit more!
  4. Just tried on ours and it won't shut up whatever combination of lights and door switch pressing I use. As soon as I let go, it starts up again. ☹️ Is there a another trick I'm missing?
  5. I hate that damn thing too. In my view anyone who thinks having their peace (and anyone else's nearby) disturbed by that racket deserves to be shut in a room with it until they come to understand just how annoying it is! It's not a 'safety device', it is simply telling you that you may be about to exit the car and leave your keys in the ignition. It should be a selectable option for people who can't remember that they have left the key in the ignition. Personally I would get rid of the seat belt alarm too. How about that for shockingly decadent behaviour eh? 😜 I'm going to try Flas
  6. As above. It needs fixing but certainly 20 miles won't cause a problem unless it is already ripped open and and the road grit is already in there. Most aftermarket CV boots only last from as little as 18 months. I've had supposedly quality Japanese aftermarket boots start perishing after a couple of years so I think genuine is best in this case.
  7. It's a 2014 1.33 Icon handily the same as pj's but a 6 speed manual. Just measured it and it's bang on 128mm too! Thanks for that. I've recently serviced it and the bearings were fine unlike my daughters Mk 1 spirit a while back. Quite an effort to get off!
  8. Perfect! Thanks. 🙂 If anyone does have a height measurement, say from the front valence to the ground of a similar model I'd like to compare. 👍
  9. Our 2014 Yaris rides quite low. It looks cool but on our little unmade lane it always scrapes at the front no matter how slowly you reverse out. It's only done 29k so I can't believe the front springs are that tired yet. Potholes will do it also. Just wondered if anyone else gets this and also what the Toyota part number is for the clips that secure the long thin black plastic trim under the front. A link for the correct size aftermarket fixings would do just as well (they probably won't be there that long!) They are the square section plugs that take an 'acme' style screw.
  10. You would have to add the cost of getting the immobilizer coded to the new ECU. Roughly 100 UKP using an auto locksmith here.
  11. I'm in the UK. My Yaris is an 'Icon' model. NSP 130 with the 1.33 INRFE engine. The chassis number is VNKKJ3D390A203210. It has a six speed manual transmission. (Maybe cruise simply isn't compatible with CVT?) My car has the audio controls on the steering wheel and an audio screen which doubles for the reversing camera. I don't have Nav on the screen, I think this is because my car is very last of the 'old' model.
  12. Been watching this thread only idly because I already have original cruise control (1NRFE). On VW diesels the cruise control is a small part of another electrical controller which also supplies current for other things. If you want to add CC and you don't already have the right part number for this other controller, you have to upgrade to better. I only mention this because even after this upgrade you still have to enable CC in the engine ECU. I wonder if Toyotas need this 'enabling' too. It isn't an ECU reflash it's just a simple change of coding to tell the vehicle that it now has CC wh
  13. The answer lies with the money. If the thieves can't sell, they won't steal. Scrap dealers legally cannot take cash for scrap from unknown sources any more following all the high profile copper/lead/anything else metal (and valuable) thefts. These days there has to be a paper trail. So it is down to the police to target a few of these scroats and winkle out the crooked dealers. Although I can't see the police worrying too much about the theft of a catalytic converter or two in their area though when they rarely even turn up these days following a burglary.
  14. Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping to be able to go through EGR flow and anything else that is available. I don't know if the procedure for any possible calibration would be the same as the iQ but will have a look. The problem for any testing is finding out normal range of what you should be expecting to see. The fact that it is a little worse when its cold interests me. I can watch what the coolant sensor is reporting live as it warms up and see that it looks sensible. It would be good to know what the fuel trim is showing as a guide. The software wouldn't work back when I first tried it
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