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Tintaglia

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Everything posted by Tintaglia

  1. Tried that yesterday. In 30 degrees C heat nothing replaces open doors. If I ever get my Techstream to work I will try and see if there is a chance that it can be silenced that way. I believe there is no documented way to do it using Techstream but if it's like the VWs sometimes hidden tricks can be found with patience. No good trying removing fuses because it is not fused separately so you lose other things.
  2. 😄 My daughter still has her old MK 1 Spirit but it is a 1.3 so it's pretty good! (And her A/C is still perfect too even after 19 years!) Got to look at mine today and had it jacked up and I followed all the pipes in all directions with a big bright LED light. I even checked underneath the dash and carpet for any marks of oil or any other kind and it is all pristine. Except for this pipe from the compressor to the driver's side of the condenser. It has a dark mark showing on it. I don't think I have moved it about much although it looks a bit like I have. There is also a single blue mark but that looks more like dry coolant to me. Does anyone recognise this as a classic A/C leak? I unbolted the condenser end of the pipe to get the pic because the mark is facing downwards. It certainly did have zero gas in it as I had already checked.
  3. I don't fancy diy topping up. Looks a bit haphazard to me. I spent years in the motor trade before I retired so I always want to be in charge of any dismantling that goes on with my cars. The gas has already escaped so I will find out where, fix it if I can and have the correct weight, pressure and oil added by a specialist afterwards. 🙂 In my day we sent out A/C work or had cars de-gassed and re-gassed after our work was complete. I don't keep the A/C permanently on like others but I do deliberately put it on every few days including in winter, plus the car 'selects' it fairly regularly depending what heating/defrosting combo is selected.
  4. Yes I get that but from what I've read gas leaks are not always visible unless there are oil stains around the leak and I can't seen any so far. I will have to get it UV dye or pressure tested if I can't track it down.
  5. Thanks Tom. It was fine. When it was working, if you put it on the coldest it would get about as cold as my VW or any other car I have had in the past. I'm not an A/C guy so I just felt the slightly larger of the two hoses on the O/S and it felt a bit squishy so I tried the obvious valve. Once it had done its little weak sigh I could push the valve all the way in and it spoke no more. I could tell just by pressing the valve in the first place that there almost zero pressure there. I should say that although mine is a 2014 it is the very last of the old model so the later ones could be different. Just went out and took a photo and noticed the large H on the cap! I guess it was the HP side.. 😄 Looking at the pic it's shocking how much surface rust 8 years by the sea causes. Look at those bolts and that engine mounting. Time for some dismantling and painting I think!
  6. Thanks for the reply. 👍 When it stops raining I will jack it up and take the all the plastic shrouds off and try and see a bit more. Do you know how the condenser comes out? It looks a bit awkward from the top.
  7. Does anyone know of any common places for leaks? I know it's all gone since when I carefully (gloved hand and eye protection) pressed the valve, all I got was a slight sigh. I have looked all around with a torch and there is no signs of oil staining anywhere including all the pipework from the compressor I can see and the condenser radiator. I haven't jacked it up yet nor checked under the dash. It was perfect one day and not working the next so I presume it must be a pretty drastic leak. I'm guessing it's the rad but I can't see anything obvious. I'd like to do any work myself (retired mechanic) but by no means an A/C specialist. Would one of the mobile guys come and do a leak test do you think?
  8. Had the same thing with our Yaris when we got it 2019. I ended up getting an second hand but unused space saver for ÂŖ40 from ebay. Never used it since and if I do it will only be for the short trip to the nearest tyre shop!
  9. I used the original bolts with soft mild steel washers which isn't ideal. I should have replaced the bolts with some pan-headed ones. But it has completely cured the problem. And isht now shuts better than ever. I have known this car from new (I used to maintain it for the original owner before my daughter bought it) so I know that it has never had rear damage. It must make life hard for a bodyshop after a rear end shunt or when fitting a new seal.
  10. No spoiler on mine. The two bolts are countersunk and going into a fixed thread so they find themselves a dedicated position as they tighten and it can't be altered by the usual loosening and moving the plate about. I checked that the equivalent movement couldn't be found by moving the latch or even the tailgate itself but it is simply fixed. In the end I drilled out the countersinking and used a couple of washers under the bolts which worked perfectly. I didn't really like it but I could see no alternative. Still, the car is 18 years old and on 98k!
  11. I wanted to adjust the rear latch on my daughter's 2003 Spirit Mk 1 today because only slamming the door violently would close it fully and it was causing central locking issues but I was surprised to find none of the usual sliding semi-captive nuts or slotted holes for the adjustment of the striker plate. Is there a special Toyota trick I've missed? 🙂 The lock itself doesn't adjust/slide either.
  12. Thanks for the pics Bob, I'd forgotten all about the second switch, dooh! No stop/start on my 1.33 so the lower switch purely does the 'press the clutch fully down to start' thing and can be easily defeated as happened to the OP. I still think the ECU uses the other switch to know where the pedal is to improve gearchanges (which it makes a horrible job of). On VW's, a faulty clutch switch can lead to snatchy gearchanges, and sometimes high idle speed too. As an experiment, in the past I have tried driving mine with this second switch plunger taped in, and then with the switch removed from the pedal but left connected. This was all in the past in an effort to improve the well known throttle hanging business. Oddly enough neither had the desired effect but adding a couple of washers under the switch did as I described here. It's still not perfect but I'm putting up with it. One thing I have noticed is that it is tharms.t it improves as the engine which intrigues me. I still haven't got my Techstream cable working so I can't try and check the coolant sensor or much else. Note - The second (upper) clutch switch isn't a safety device! That's the lower one.
  13. Well I'm with Scannerman on the function of the clutch switch. If the OP's mechanic physically taped up the switch so that the spring loaded plunger on the switch was held in the compressed position, then the result would be that the clutch pedal would think it was in the 'up' position, ie not being pressed and the car wouldn't start so that would be a pointless bodge. So something is not quite right here irrespective of hypothetical insurance infringements. I know this broadens out the original question a bit but regarding cruise control- Pressing the clutch pedal disengages cruise control but this requires that the ECU gets the 'disengage' signal with only the lightest touch on the clutch pedal (before the clutch slips). Therefore the ECU clearly must 'know' both the up and down positions of the clutch pedal. Actually I think the functions of the clutch switch are quite a bit deeper than that. I wonder what exactly what has been taped? A good bright torch up under the pedals might reveal all!
  14. Just in case this thread gets closed, for my part, I want to make it quite clear that I couldn't care less about what insurance companies think. My particular beef is the same as the original poster, which was a simple question about unnecessary beeps.
  15. No, this 'warning' is only to tell you that you have left your keys in the ignition in case you have forgotten. I have no problem with genuine warnings as long as they are brief and quiet, even if repeated if you don't comply. I will know by that time that I have left the key in the ignition, or forgotten to put my seat seat belt on, no need to bash me over the head with it! I'm hoping for sanity that Flash is going to explain the B-pillar trick a bit more.
  16. Just tried on ours and it won't shut up whatever combination of lights and door switch pressing I use. As soon as I let go, it starts up again. ☚ī¸ Is there a another trick I'm missing?
  17. I hate that damn thing too. In my view anyone who thinks having their peace (and anyone else's nearby) disturbed by that racket deserves to be shut in a room with it until they come to understand just how annoying it is! It's not a 'safety device', it is simply telling you that you may be about to exit the car and leave your keys in the ignition. It should be a selectable option for people who can't remember that they have left the key in the ignition. Personally I would get rid of the seat belt alarm too. How about that for shockingly decadent behaviour eh? 😜 I'm going to try Flash's great tip, if it works it will be bliss. I often like to listen to the radio as I clean the inside.
  18. As above. It needs fixing but certainly 20 miles won't cause a problem unless it is already ripped open and and the road grit is already in there. Most aftermarket CV boots only last from as little as 18 months. I've had supposedly quality Japanese aftermarket boots start perishing after a couple of years so I think genuine is best in this case.
  19. It's a 2014 1.33 Icon handily the same as pj's but a 6 speed manual. Just measured it and it's bang on 128mm too! Thanks for that. I've recently serviced it and the bearings were fine unlike my daughters Mk 1 spirit a while back. Quite an effort to get off!
  20. Perfect! Thanks. 🙂 If anyone does have a height measurement, say from the front valence to the ground of a similar model I'd like to compare. 👍
  21. Our 2014 Yaris rides quite low. It looks cool but on our little unmade lane it always scrapes at the front no matter how slowly you reverse out. It's only done 29k so I can't believe the front springs are that tired yet. Potholes will do it also. Just wondered if anyone else gets this and also what the Toyota part number is for the clips that secure the long thin black plastic trim under the front. A link for the correct size aftermarket fixings would do just as well (they probably won't be there that long!) They are the square section plugs that take an 'acme' style screw.
  22. You would have to add the cost of getting the immobilizer coded to the new ECU. Roughly 100 UKP using an auto locksmith here.
  23. I'm in the UK. My Yaris is an 'Icon' model. NSP 130 with the 1.33 INRFE engine. The chassis number is VNKKJ3D390A203210. It has a six speed manual transmission. (Maybe cruise simply isn't compatible with CVT?) My car has the audio controls on the steering wheel and an audio screen which doubles for the reversing camera. I don't have Nav on the screen, I think this is because my car is very last of the 'old' model.
  24. Been watching this thread only idly because I already have original cruise control (1NRFE). On VW diesels the cruise control is a small part of another electrical controller which also supplies current for other things. If you want to add CC and you don't already have the right part number for this other controller, you have to upgrade to better. I only mention this because even after this upgrade you still have to enable CC in the engine ECU. I wonder if Toyotas need this 'enabling' too. It isn't an ECU reflash it's just a simple change of coding to tell the vehicle that it now has CC which you might do via Techstream on a Toyota I guess. This is probably irrelevant being about VW's but it does no harm to mention it.
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