socratez

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About socratez

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ritzie
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis TR Valvematic CVT
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    London
  1. Hi Maxim, did you save the fault codes? Which Toyota did you bring your car to? For the record, I'm now using 0w20 oil but warnings are still coming on for a couple of days then off again for a couple of weeks. I've driven the car on the motorway at 80mph for 1-2 hours, no perceived loss of power.
  2. Just an update on my problems, in case this is helpful to anyone else in the future. I am trying a number of 'cheap fixes' first as some of you suggested: - It's been almost a month now that I have been observing the symptoms. There is a pattern: Engine warning lights (plus VSC+PBK) go off after a couple of days. Then on again after a week or so, or after a number of miles driven (city mainly) with consistent DTCs P1047 + U011B. - Cleaned MAF sensor, just in case, it didn't make any difference. Did not look bad at all when removed. - I have invested on a Techstream adaptor clone and will do the diagnostics again when it arrives. - Off to change oil to the Toyota recommended 0w20 this weekend. - @Konrad C: wonder if your suggestion is worth doing, easy for DIYers: - It does look more like a replacement of the variable lift controller for me as @mrfixer initially suggested, but still hoping to get some further diagnostics done, plus test for power failure to the sensor. - There is a LOAD of info I have obtained from numerous Russian sites, highlights below. Some fellows there are very enthusiastic and have taken the variable lift controller off the engine. Either replaced it themselves with new part or some claim to have been able to fix it. Problem is apparently related to high temperatures and age. One guy blames the led-free factory soldering of the electronic components, which makes them crack under varying temperatures; they've been able to open the kit and re-soldered it with success. Pretty amazing. Which reminds me, my problems started after a 450 mile trip at ~33 C (in the UK!) in congested motorways. Over 6 hours of driving. Not sure whether this is the cause of my issues, but seems consistent to what the Russians are reporting. Same engine and variable lift ECU in the RAV4 and few other models: https://instadigg.com/p/1958847326555990504_6180271962 There's this guy in Tomsk who tests them: Removing the valvematic ECU:
  3. Hi @Konrad C, I did as you suggested, disconnected the battery for several minutes. DTCs gone on reconnection. What is the significance of this? Pointing to a smaller electrical problem, or otherwise? Haven't driven the car around yet to recalibrate profiles, etc. Forgot to say: I've noticed that when I press the rear window defogger button when car is not moving, revs drop from ~630 down to ~520-550. I'm only experiencing this drop with the defogger, not with other electrical components in operation (such as radio, A/C, etc). Is this drop normal?
  4. I did some googling and here is something I found in a Turkish Toyota forum: https://www.toyotaclubtr.com/index.php?topic=82295.0 The mechanic there changed the Oil Valve Controller and looks like the problem went away. Are we talking about the same thing here?
  5. Thanks @Konrad C. The local garage I went to yesterday used Launch. I was observing the tablet: it found my exact engine model, I assume this means its database was 'updated'. I take your advice that a Techstream would give more trusted readings. I guess taking the car to Toyota for diagnostics should be my next step, as @mrfixer suggested. The last time I spoke with Currie Motors in south London they quoted "£150 per warning light"! Any advice how to approach this would be appreciated. I just cannot flush £600 for the codes, there has to be some logical order for the investigation. I guess I should start with the engine light (for the P1047)? On a simple eye check, if that's what you meant, all lights are working OK. Including the license plate one I replaced. I've done a basic check on the fusebox with a multimeter and all seem OK. My knowledge ends here, I would like to do earth checks myself around the car, but don't know how. Any tips or links welcome. I believe I achieved the equivalent of disconnecting the battery by pulling the DCC fuse, isn't it? I realised afterwards that most readings were zeroed (average consumption, time on the road, unreliable estimate for remaining fuel mileage, etc.) But the radio did not lose the stored stations, I guess I only reset part of the circuitry that would not erase the codes? I have driven quite a bit since I pulled that fuse and the car seems to have caught up again (as I can tell by the average consumption figure). The mechanic erased the codes with the Launch yesterday. After two warm ups, 7 miles later, they came on again today. I read the same 2 codes with my cheapo ELM327 today: P1047 + U011B. Any idea what the shipping time might be, @mrfixer? Are we talking months or weeks here? I wonder if the Powerhouse up in Derby could deal with this, once I get a full diagnosis from Toyota? I've read so much positive about them in this forum. Hope so, too! It does make one wonder and question the Toyota brandname. I always thought they are reliable and wouldn't say they have faulted me in the past 9 years. But to have to almost scrap a car (why fork £3k for repairs?) at 55,000 miles sounds ridiculous. Thank you all again for your info, this forum is really helpful.
  6. Thanks, @mrfixer You say "usually there is some power loss". I am not experiencing this currently, except for the first time the warning lights came up when the engine throttled to 20-30 mph. If the Valvematic controller was the problem wouldn't the power loss be noticeable at all times? Somehow, I get the feeling the warnings were triggered by that jet wash, pointing to an electrical/electronics failure. (Does this sound plausible? Sorry, not knowledgable enough about car mechanics, hence the newbie questions.) What also surprises me are the EPB faults (Cxxxx) that have come up together with the P1047/U011B. Would the service garage not have captured the EPB ones earlier. I just cannot believe they were there and no one noticed. I would repeat here that I am not feeling any issues with the EPB, it sounds and operates OK, as far as I can tell. If the fault is with the Valvematic controller, would anyone recommend 2nd hand parts or a braker in London? I am conscious of the high cost you mentioned. Thank you again for all your comments.
  7. I own an Avensis 1.8L TR Valvematic and have a few MILs illuminated (VSC, Parking Brake, Engine, Attention), on and off for the last 2 weeks. I say 'on and off' because I have reset them a couple of times. For the experts in the forum: I bought an ELM327 and I am reading the following DTCs with the free 'Car Scanner' software: - stored P1047. [Google says: Type: Powertrain - MFC controlled DTC. Descr: Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, exhaust circuit malfunction. Location: Right/Rear/Bank 1. Cause: Wiring, Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator] - stored U011B [Google says: Type: Network - Network Communications - ISO/SAE Controller. Descr: Lost communication with Rocker ARM Controller Module "A".] - P0210 ?? - C07C1 ?? Took the vehicle to a local mechanic who, in addition to the first two DTCs above (P1047 + U011B) and with a professional grade OBD2, read the following: - C1201 Engine control system Malfunction (EPB and ABS sections of OBD2) - C13A7 Actuator malfunction (EPB section of OBD2) - (... few others that he considered side-effects...) All these MILs came up the morning after a good jet wash (exterior, no engine). I also noticed a burnt rear left license plate light, which I have changed myself. I don't know if it is related or when it happened. I passed MOT in March and have been servicing the car religiously every year. I own the car first hand, bought 03/2010, clocked only 55k miles and have had almost zero issues so far (EPB failed and replaced during warranty in 2013). It still drives well despite the warnings, i.e., no power loss (except for the first time when I got the warning lights, speed limited to 20-30 mph), no other unusual noises, etc. I would appreciate your comments. @Johngh @Nave I have seen the older thread of yours here: I am CC'ing you to ask your views on the repair you described. Did you ever face any issues since August 2016 that you may think are related to the problem(s) you described? I am trying to get some reassurance from you two and, if needed, drive up to Powerhouse Derby for a similar repair. Thanks for documenting your course of action so well.