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About Shavestick

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  • Toyota Model
    Yaris 1.33, Avensis 1.8 Valvematic
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  1. We had a 2003 Polo with a rusty filler neck, about £350 to sort out.
  2. At 185 60 15 and proper tracking we had Michlens but can't see what's all the fuss is about, lasted nicely at 25k on the front but very noisy. Swapped to Falkens ZE310, which where far quieter and lasted 24k. Currently on another set of Falkens, they behave a bit better than the Michlens in the wet and again far quieter.
  3. Absolutely right, French built Yaris has the electrically controlled steering.
  4. Most batteries are sealed for life so I wouldn't bother if yours is one of these. Checking that you have the right output is the key. I would however clean the terminals, battery tray and apply some dielectric grease all over the terminals. I would also add to your list lubricating the windows rollers with silicone spray. Wash with a watering hose your ac condenser and radiator can keep things clean from salt and consequently corrosion. Not a DIY job but if you have Aircon then a proper servicing by an AC technician every three years or so is well worth it in the UK where we don't bother switch it on during the cold months.
  5. Test your battery if it's still on the original, many garages will give you a check for free.
  6. I would change the hydraulic steering fluid at 60k, easy DIY Joby. Suck the fluid, top up with clean fluid, drive few days, suck everything out from the bottle and top up with new fluid. Change manual transmission oil is another easy one if you intend on keeping it for a while. If you know how to I would change the brake fluid too, not expensive if you ask the garage to do it. Spray rubber conditioner on all the rubber bushes. Get the front wheel alignment checked, only £30 to adjust on the Yaris in most places. Check the rear shoes and clean the inside of the drums is fairly easy on this car as well. Adjust the hand brake cable if needed, another very easy job on the Yaris Mk2 and Mk2.
  7. What are the grades specified for the 2.0 D4D in the manual? At least with the Toyota petrols the engines seems to be built for a wider than normal tolerance of different grades with one recommended grade. Both of my petrols the T27 1.8 and the Yaris 1.33 can drink according to the manual synthetic, semi synthetic and even a 10W40 semi if the recommended grade (0W20 or 5W30) is not available. There are variations in the 5W30 for sure but after years of using 5W30 full synthetic in different Toyota petrols I believe that Toyota don't build very narrow tolerance inside the grade like VAG and GM.
  8. In my Mk2 1.33 TR no matter what I do 48 to 52 mpg is average on 5 miles of A road and 10 miles of free flowing motorway each way daily. If driven slow 60mpg can easily achieved bream to bream. Can't comment about LED's.
  9. Thanks Konard, I'll check Here we go, I'll put the funds allocated for new SD towards a new set of tyres needed soon at the front (ProTyre is doing a couple of Vredestein Trac 5 for £106 fitted).
  10. My wife has a question about the TNS510. We currently have revision 1.0 of the maps on the SD from 2010. If we invest in a current 2019-2020 card will there be any improvement or changes to the Nav system itself or is it just new maps? After a long time usage of Google maps it feels a bit retro to use the built-in Nav though it is very useful in non cellular reception areas.
  11. Is your Yaris a 1.33 or 1.3?, these are different engines and gear boxes. Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk
  12. I have the same engine in the Yaris which is a lighter platform and the 99bhp is entertaining though need some work to get going. I was wondering why they fitted this in the Auris as it would make for a fairly sluggish proposal. I guess this was the newest small motor Mr T had before fittings small turbos came mainstream in the model lineup. Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk
  13. You are right, the op probably have ss on their's if it's a 2010. Our SS had a mind of its own until we fitted a new battery and now that you've mentioned this I did notice it's behaving impeccably. The SS system probably over compensate when your battery outputs less than 12v, so the stoppagees tend to terminate before the car needs to actually move depending on things like heating/cooling etc' Should have swapped the battery years ago, oh well. Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk
  14. We have 1.33 2010 TR with the stop/start and my wife had the same issue while I stall it as well occasionally while moving slowly. The reason for this was a weak battery (it was on the original battery up to recently). Fresh battery dully fitted and stalling disappeared. Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk