Shavestick

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About Shavestick

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Danny
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris 1.33, Avensis 1.8 Valvematic
  • Toyota Year
    2011
  • Location
    Gloucestershire

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  1. My 2010 1.8 which I acquired in July 2019 have a full main dealer history. I asked the nice lady at the service counter to print me the service record and not even once in 10 years did they put anything but 5W30. I am due the next annual service in the summer this year, should I insist on 0w20?
  2. Yep. After practicing it does take around 5 to ten minutes. Tips for changing the bulb: 1. Use the longest life bulb you can get so you don't need to do it again any time soon 2. Don't bother with the stupid pin clips as they get brittle and shears off, galvanized garden wire is cheaper and last for ever 3.Re-Adjust the light position if needed so it can pass the Mot every time you remove the entire lens assembly to get to the stupid bulb What was wrong with round glass lenses?!
  3. Hi, No nothing like that, it's very brief and not every time, it sounds like this one:
  4. Key operated, serviced in June and noise started last month.
  5. My T27 1.8 petrol tourer developed some odd starting noise. Since last month when first starting up in the morning there is like a spike noise immediately as the car started. This noise doesn't happen if starting at any other time, only early or first thing in the day. The sound is like if you tried to start the engine while it was already started, like holding the ignition too long with the key. The car starts fine it just that noise. Can it be some sort of serpentine belt noise?
  6. Changed battery in the summer on a 1.33 StartStop 2010 and there is no code or anything, just needed to set the clock. Isn't the Yaris a victory of simplicity, logic and robustness over all the gadgets they stuff into cars now days? (Apart from the bloddy passenger side high beam bulb).
  7. Mind you not every independent can work on Hybrids due to the safety measures needed for working with high voltage.
  8. And this was the winning answer. Sprayed the white grease into the shock absorbers bearings and vualla! No more creaks. The sway bar bushings actually looks ok as I do give all the rubbers a bit of Waine stop leak spraying from time to time. Many thanks
  9. The Yaris is a simple vehicle, you can safely get it serviced by the usual big chains like National or F1, something like £160 for a full service at my local village garage. I do 12k annually and now on 120k without any issues, never serviced it by Mr T.
  10. Exactly like on my car, coming and going creaks especially on cold weather when turning the steering full pelt at slow moving speed from standing. Thanks, will have a look at the sway bars bushings. Probably will leave this like you to the tester and live with the creaks. These bushings are the original and started to creak at around 110k, car now has 120k and is ultra reliable otherwise.
  11. When I turn the steering wheel while the car moves very slowly, say coming out of parking there is a creaking noise. The noise sounds like a door hinge that needs a bit of oiling. Checked the rubber bushings on the CV joints and there is no tears or grease leaks. Checked the CV joints but can't hear any clunks when fully turning the steering wheel while driving in circles. What else should I look at? The car is a 2010 Mk2 1.33
  12. It is trying to tell you to clean up your MAF.
  13. Is there any way of further protecting the EPB box from contamination/water ingress? I only heard of very few VM failures on the petrol model, is this more common than we are made to believe?
  14. https://itstillruns.com/correct-way-jump-start-car-5985031.html
  15. Question (maybe a stupid one but can't see the answer in the manual). Which wheels are secured by the EPB? Is it just the rear like in a manual hand brake or all wheels?